CluelessAF

madizmo

This is the latest version of my AMS saver after bambu asked me to take down my old models. Apparently some people managed to damage the feeder leds with some of the previous models. This version mounts to the top of the feeder unit using double sided sticky tape so there is absolutely no chance of causing any damage to your AMS unit. I used the clear 1mm thick sticky tape off Temu on mine and they are stuck very well. I&#39;ve been using 100mm ptfe tube with no issues, if you seem to get loading issues try 85mm. The ID of the ptfe hole is 4.2mm but because of the print orientation it can still be tight, i run an allen key through it along the top edge to smooth the layers a bit. You can play with flow rate a bit as well if too tight&nbsp;works best with my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/172221#profileId-189118" rel="nofollow noopener">filament guides</a>, the ones in the pictures i&#39;m still testing but the originals work great&nbsp;&nbsp;Disclaimer: This is a modification to the machine and any issues caused by these mods will not be covered by Bambu.

AMS Saver V5

Things to Print

brody.bolanos

Bambu Lab P1 / X1 Series Modular Bentobox Aux Fan (4/10/2023)Designed a modular second aux fan / bentobox for Bambu Lab printers. Assuming a lot of people will upgrade their P1P to the P1S, they will most likely have 2 aux fans now and this could be a good use for the 2nd one! This is separate from my other model ( <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23644" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23644</a> ) as this is meant for users that plan on using the printer in a both enclosed or open environment. Use the dual aux when printing PLA or filaments that need cooling in a non-enclosed setting. Switch over to the bentobox when printing enclosed with filaments that can release unpleasant or harmful odors. The bentobox will recirculate the air, passing it through the filters and ideally removing any odors. &nbsp;Contents<ul><li>Updates</li><li>Files</li><li>Additional Parts</li><li>Printing Information</li><li>Assembly</li><li>Wiring Options</li></ul>The X1 and P1 Version are different! This is to account for the Lidar clearance.&nbsp;This will only fit on the right side of the printer! You cannot mirror to work on the left, where the original fan goes, as the frame rails are are different heights ( among other things). <h4>Future Update (8/15/2023)</h4><ul><li>Working on an update that will mount the fan to the side panel. Now that P1 users have that option, it will be a faster print, save filament and save space if the fan base is no longer need. <ul><li>See “Test” folder, currently waiting on the new panels to verify fitment - 8/25/2023</li></ul></li></ul><h4>Update 7/28/23 </h4><ol><li>Finished the design for the upgraded fan ducts that provide airflow to the back, middle, and front of the build plate<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23661" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23661</a> </li></ol></li></ol><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_9nmybmxrx1es.png"></figure><h4>Update 7/25/23 </h4>Added multiple wiring instructions.<ol><li>Using fan_1 port to power the aux. Control via Bambu Studios</li><li>Using fan_1 port to power the aux. Control via Gcode.</li><li>Keeping the fan_1 port open for the chamber temp fan, wiring 2nd aux to the 1st aux fan. Control via normal way.</li></ol><blockquote><h3>Files</h3></blockquote>Main Files<ol><li>Back Plate 3A</li><li>Dual Fan Stand 4A</li><li>Fan Case 6A</li><li>P1 Modular Fan Top 7A</li><li>X1 Modular Fan Top 8A</li></ol>Optional Bentobox Files<ol><li>HEPA Box 1A</li><li>HEPA Cover 2A</li><li>Carbon Box 5A</li></ol>Print File<ol><li>P1 Print File</li><li>X1 Print File</li></ol><blockquote><h3>Additional Parts </h3></blockquote>Base Components <ol><li>Aux fan <ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/auxiliary-part-cooling-fan-x1-series-and-p1p" rel="nofollow noopener">https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/auxiliary-part-cooling-fan-x1-series-and-p1p</a></li></ol></li><li>Qty 2 : M3*6</li><li>Qty 24: 6mm*3mm round Neodymium Magnets<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TQP1KZ5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TQP1KZ5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li></ol></li></ol>Optional Components for Bentobox<ol><li>Qty 1 : 80mm*40mm*15mm HEPA Filter<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0782T7L6P?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0782T7L6P?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li></ol></li><li>Acid-Free Carbon Pellets - Minimum 4mm Diameter<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro#sourcing-the-proper-acid-free-carbon" rel="nofollow noopener">https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro#sourcing-the-proper-acid-free-carbon</a></li></ol></li></ol><blockquote><h3>Print Orientation</h3></blockquote><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_if06atl7nsy4.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_wu8wyw2misk2.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_opljwm8e6mbh.png"></figure>&nbsp;<blockquote><h3>Print Settings</h3></blockquote>DO NOT USE PLA, IT WILL BREAK. Please use PETG, ASA, PLA+ , etc. I used Polylite Pro PLA+Set your K calibration and adjust setting based on your filament Quality<ul><li>Please see build plate file. </li></ul>Support <ul><li>Please see build plate file. </li></ul>Other<ul><li>Bed adhesion - use brim if you're having adhesion issues, its already configured in the print file so please go over the settings first. </li></ul>* To remove the support from the fan top , I just used pliers and pulled the support out which was pretty easy. Sometimes some of the support stuck but it was easy to clean up with a small knife. The supports on the 2 larger tabs on the fan casing should looked at after the supports are removed, just make sure it's clean on the bottom side since these tabs are what hold it tight against the fan stand. &nbsp;<blockquote><h3>Assembly</h3></blockquote><ul><li>Remove the fan from casing, remove the sticker over the wiring and redirect the wiring as shown below. Don't put the fan in the printed case yet. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_h8qchxo18x22.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Glue in the 24 magnets<ul><li>3 on the stand</li><li>6 on the carbon box</li><li>8 on the HEPA box</li><li>4 on the HEPA cover</li><li>1 on the back plate</li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>Place the fan into the new casing, make sure the fan is centered by using the alignment poles</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_l8sga615s3jd.png"></figure><ul><li>Attach the back plate using re-using the 3 screws that originally held the fan into the casing. Tighten the screws 90% of the way making sure the backplate can still move a little.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_ivz5jsbdv186.png"></figure><ul><li>Slide the upper assembly onto the fan stand, same way as the OEM aux fan and use the 2 longer screws that come with the aux fan to tighten the case against the stand. Then make sure the back plate is squared up and tighten the 3 screws the remainder of the way.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_m97ksiyhwtqh.png"></figure>MOVE THE BUILD PLATE ALL THE WAY DOWN FOR THE NEXT STEPS<ul><li>The stand connects to the floor via lining up the L shape cutout with the L shape extrusion on the floor. There is also a caution sticker and under that sticker is a hole that we will use to screw the stand to the floor. I re-used 1 of the 2 shorter screws that came with the aux fan. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_rpgsoq1t540w.png"></figure><ul><li>Assemble the carbon box, HEPA box, HEPA cover. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_gdp6slsnyzis.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_uq7vh8ci03r6.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Rotate filter cover around ( the protrusion gets in the way of the bentobox) or use on the the below models<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23650#profileId-22261" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23650#profileId-22261</a> </li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_bxot5dhpbn0y.jpg"></figure><blockquote><h3>Bentobox</h3></blockquote><ul><li>To use the bentobox, slide the assembly onto the fan casing. The top of the HEPA filter cover needs to overcome the protrusion on the frame so it takes a little bit of force to push into place. Then use 2 M3x6 to hold in place.<ul><li>Once everything is printed, in place, and screwed down, the model will clear the printing plate. </li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_hwr0s8qnv8na.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_4cla5v0yk5ma.png"></figure><blockquote><h3>Dual Aux</h3></blockquote><ul><li>Slide the fan top onto the fan casing and use 2 M3*6 screws to hold into place. <ul><li>Once everything is printed, in place, and screwed down, the model will clear the printing plate. </li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_9lydrevbtgtz.png"></figure>&nbsp;<blockquote><h3>Wiring Options ( Option 3 is the best and requires no modifications to the existing aux fan wires)</h3></blockquote><h3>Option 1- Using the fan_1 port ( where the chamber fan would connect) and Bambu Studios to control the fan. </h3><ul><li>Follow the instructions to remove the back plate to plug in the aux fan. The fan plugs into Fan 1 while the original aux fan is plugged into Fan2</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_4maaef750gs9.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Cable manage the wiring </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_la2mod8h0fai.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_6xjjld9r753r.png"></figure><h4>Bambu Studio</h4>So I know you can change the Gcode to make it work with the fan which is “M106 P3 S0 ; turn off chamber fan” (option 2 below) but you can also change the config to make it show up in Bambu Studio.<ul><li>For me on PC it's under C:\Program Files\Bambu Studio\resources . Open the Config file with an application like Notepad++ <a target="_blank" href="https://notepad-plus-plus.org/downloads/v8.5.1/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://notepad-plus-plus.org/downloads/v8.5.1/</a></li><li>Under "FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : false," change it to true ""FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : true," . Notepadd++ will ask to change this under administrator, click yes and save the file. </li></ul>{ "printers": [ { "display_name": "Bambu Lab P1P", "func": { "FUNC_CHAMBER_TEMP": true, "FUNC_FIRSTLAYER_INSPECT": false, "FUNC_AI_MONITORING": false, "FUNC_BUILDPLATE_MARKER_DETECT": false, "FUNC_FLOW_CALIBRATION": false, "FUNC_MONITORING": false, "FUNC_MEDIA_FILE": false, "FUNC_REMOTE_TUNNEL": false, "FUNC_LOCAL_TUNNEL": true, "FUNC_VIRTUAL_CAMERA" : false, "FUNC_PRINT_WITHOUT_SD": false, "FUNC_ALTER_RESOLUTION": false, "FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : false, "FUNC_EXTRUSION_CALI": true, "FUNC_PRINT_ALL" : false<ul><li>Re-open Studio and on the device screen you'll now see the chamber fan which is what we'll use to control the 2nd aux fan. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_s1q2y4ab0xi0.png"></figure>&nbsp;<ul><li>For the bentobox air flow, you only need to set a fan speed until you feel a breeze coming out of the top filter. </li></ul><h3>Option 2 - Using the fan_1 port ( where the chamber fan would connect) and Gcode to control the fan. </h3><ul><li>Same wiring as above but instead of changing the config file for Studios we change the gcode. This was suggested from @bjws_297864:<ul><li>Remove the filament start code that modifies the chamber fan and added this to the end of the printer start gcode: ;========turn on chamber fan to filter VOCs ============= {if filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ABS" || filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ASA" } M106 P3 S50 ; set chamber fan to 20% {endif}</li></ul></li></ul><h3>Option 3 - Wire the 2nd aux fan to the original aux fan. This way both fans are controlled as one without needing to change any code. This is how I have mine set up. </h3>What's required:<ol><li>JST MX 1.25 Connectors<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B3MSD154/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B3MSD154/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a> </li></ol></li><li>Minimal soldering skill</li></ol><h4>Wiring Diagram </h4>Bambu wiring = Dark grey (GND) , Black (+), light grey ( tach) , white (pwm)<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td> </td><td>Bambu </td><td>JST MX 1.25</td></tr><tr><td>+</td><td>Black</td><td>Red</td></tr><tr><td>-</td><td>Dark Grey</td><td>Black</td></tr><tr><td>Tach</td><td>Light Grey</td><td>Yellow</td></tr><tr><td>PWM</td><td>White</td><td>White</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>As pointed out by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MozzieT_1023044" rel="nofollow noopener">@MozzieT_1023044</a> if you're wiring the 2nd fan into the existing one, it's probably best to only connect the PWM wire and not the Tach wire. The speed readout may get a bit confused as to the actual fan speed if the two fans pulses don't align for whatever reason. I still have my 2nd tach wire connected without any issues but I do plan on disconnecting it next time I take my panel off. -9/8/2023<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_7idliu8ym2h5.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_8ivrxuvjho5o.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Behind the power panel, there are two screws under -V and +V that aren't being used. I just wrapped the wire around these screws and tightened down. You should use a terminal ring but I didn't. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_j393m510343b.jpg"></figure>And finally how it all looks wired up:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205537/2023-09-27_4so3n2cujura.jpg"></figure>That's all! &nbsp;If you like my designs and want to say thanks, you can buy me a coffee and help fund the filaments I need for prototyping. A donation of any amount to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/brodyB" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy Me a Coffee</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/brodyb10?country.x=US&locale.x=en_US" rel="nofollow noopener">PayPal</a> would be greatly appreciated!&nbsp;As always, given different printing environments, filaments, etc., prints may not work perfectly for everyone. If you are having issues please message or comment and I will try my best to resolve the issue.

Bambu Lab P1 X1 Dual Aux Fan / Bentobox 7/28 Updated

X1C Mods

Ciuf_Ciuf

<h2>General description</h2>After the great success of the drainage project, I am proposing a simpler and more intuitive version, especially for new users and beginners who are approaching the world of multicolor.&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/54909#profileId-56456" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/54909#profileId-56456</a>&nbsp;The basic purpose is always to minimize purging material as much as possible to save on color changes and drastically reduce the amount of discarded materialI have decided to update the model and make it more user-friendlyThe basic idea was to make it a standard Bambulab Calibration, similar to the K calibrationSo, lines with numbers to instantly identify which value is the most accurate to assign to the purging of the respective materialBeing a test, it must be as economical as possible, so a test strip requires only 2 grams&nbsp;I'm leaving you the video of a guy who explains in detail how to use this type of calibrationI thank him for considering my project for the creation of a video on YouTube, and I'm pleased that I've shared his video<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FP3CwBX6A4I"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FP3CwBX6A4I" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><h3> </h3><h3>Pre-print Procedure</h3>*Edit 03-01-2024*&nbsp;From one of the various print profiles you download, you'll need to set the color combination you desire<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:47.04%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_36c2f25737bbb.png"></figure>In my case, I'm calibrating these purge combinations, and the model will result like this<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:36.6%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_e5017ae8f46d08.png"></figure>If you want to change the color combination, simply use a different type of filament<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.2%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_a174ecda4566d.png"></figure>and the print profile will adapt to the combination you have set, as in this case<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.37%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_f1abfb2fe5f0a8.png"></figure>The model will update in real-time, allowing you to see immediately which color you are changingI've implemented additional print profiles to significantly streamline the procedure.While the process can be fast for those with a single AMS, it might be quite lengthy for those with multiple using the previous print profiles.With these new print profiles, there is also increased compatibility for the A1 Mini model.&nbsp;The idea of implementing the print profiles in this new way was suggested by Michael when he uploaded his print profile for the V1 model. I'll leave you the link to his Makerword channel (<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2954682459" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/u/2954682459</a>)&nbsp;As on the previous model, it is necessary to reduce the purging material to allow us to calculate the material quantity adequately.The only significant difference is that this time we set all purging quantities to 0On the dual-object print profile, you can also do it manually.However, on the other print profiles, if you want to expedite the process, you can set the multiplier to 0, instantly reducing the purge to 0<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35.51%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_f161c5ce7c0868.png"></figure>Now you can start the printing process&nbsp;Note: Do not touch any other parameters I've set, or the colors won't be printed in the correct order<h3>Calibration reading</h3>After completing the print, for calibrating the K factor, we need to read and determine the most accurate value to set as the purging quantityWhat you will find in front of you will be this<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:46.93%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_02e09355d1abf8.jpg"></figure>As you can see inside the two green rectangles, that is the exact moment when the material is purged, and the next color takes over.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:46.78%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_617da72c674e78.jpg"></figure>At this point, all that's left is to identify the correct value and set the purging quantity for that specific color changeFor these tests, it's highlighted that 150mm^3 of material is required to perform the color change<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:46.33%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_e9817c7179a71.jpg"></figure>In this specific case, the quantity is identical for both color changes, but for other combinations, it may varyAs you can see, the difference between the default values of Bambustudio and the ones just found is significantly lower.This allows us to reduce material waste and significantly cut down on print times, decreasing the time the printer takes to change the filament<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35.41%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_a67e103190684.png"><figcaption>BEFORE</figcaption></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35.53%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_ab83cab72d7d18.png"><figcaption>AFTER</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;

AMS Purge Calibration V2

Calibration

Kardes.Design

Update: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/84473#profileId-90295" rel="nofollow noopener">CMYK lithophanes released</a>!Update: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/66428#profileId-69768" rel="nofollow noopener">new version</a> with more panels uploaded!&nbsp;Introducing the Shapeshifting Christmas Lantern, here to transform your holiday decor! Simply switch out the decorative panels to create a whole new look for your lantern. And with new designs added regularly, you&#39;ll never get tired of the same old holiday decor.&nbsp;The <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/31480#profileId-33790" rel="nofollow noopener">panel template</a> is available for the community to remix as they wish.&nbsp;<ul><li>Effortless Printing: No support material needed for printing, making it a hassle-free experience.</li><li>Works seamlessly with <a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/en-be/products/led-lamp-kit-001" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab&#39;s LED lamp kit</a> and a generic LED strip.</li><li>Assembly Made Easy: Snap together with ease - no glue or extra hardware required.</li><li>Everything is printable on all Bambu lab printers including the A1 mini</li><li>Fully compatible with my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2706903410/collections/57878" rel="nofollow noopener">mystic lamp panels collection</a>. Panel templates are available to remix</li></ul>Print instructions:colored 3MF Files with perfect print settings are available for all models!Main structure:Designed to be 100% support free.Layer height: 0.2Infill: 5%Bottom/top layers: 4Walls: 2 walls for the base and 3 walls for the top&nbsp;I uploaded an alternate version top in case you wanted a more basic look.<figure class="table" style="width:46.79%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td>Standard top</td><td><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000058185/design/2023-11-06_d62431c201c14.jpg"></td></tr><tr><td>Alternate top</td><td><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000058185/design/2023-11-06_3cefde323b84.jpg"></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Panels:&nbsp;Colors used:<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=40743590232179" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Matte Ivory White</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/pla-basic-filament?variant=40820833517683" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Basic Jade White</a><a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/pla-sparkle?variant=40800505561203" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Sparkle Crimson Red Sparkle</a><a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=40743590330483" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Matte Scarlet red</a> ( this color is brighter. It was used for the Santa panel.)<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/pla-sparkle" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Sparkle Onyx Black Sparkle</a><a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/pla-sparkle?variant=40800505528435" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Sparkle Alpine Green Sparkle</a> ( Choose <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=40904271921267" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Matte Grass Green for a brighter look</a>)&nbsp;&nbsp;Print directly with from the print profile and easily change colors. I separated each color change to a separate object. You can choose green for example instead of red by just changing the second layer object.<figure class="table" style="width:64.82%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000058185/design/2023-11-06_aa67a12787595.png"></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;or&nbsp;slice the 3MF file and pause where the color change happens. This method works without the AMS.&nbsp;Lithophanes:&nbsp;Please download the 3MF file or use the print profile.You can also make your own lithophanes with this amazing website <a target="_blank" href="https://lithophanemaker.com/Framed%20Lithophane.html#processing" rel="nofollow noopener">lithophanemaker.com</a>Simply fill in these values after uploading your image and you will get a panel that fits perfectly in the lamp.<figure class="table" style="width:48.07%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000058185/design/2023-11-06_8f2f6ecf71ac2.png"></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Lighting:&nbsp;All pictures were taken with the <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/led-lamp-kit-001" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab Led lamp kit 001</a> used. It is perfect for the lamp and provides more than enough lighting.&nbsp;Print the LED channel if you don&#39;t have the Bambu lab LED kit.&nbsp;The channel can fit around a 2 meters. you do not need to cut the strip if its longer. instructions below.&nbsp;<figure class="table" style="float:left;width:29.06%;"><table class="ck-table-resized" style="border:1px double rgb(179, 179, 179);"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;"><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/en-be/products/led-lamp-kit-001" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab LED lamp kit</a></td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;">&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000058185/design/2023-11-06_db67e88b819e5.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000058185/design/2023-11-06_4749e88779677.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000058185/design/2023-11-06_c8c691c54cbc2.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000058185/design/2023-11-06_45cbe92365dd3.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;">Generic LED strip( 2meters)</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000058185/design/2023-10-24_572427393436.gif"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hi, I&#39;m a student and love creating functional and beautiful designs optimized for 3D printing.if you like my work consider supporting me with these options:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=6VL4LD2NAJJ86" rel="nofollow noopener">Paypal</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/KardesDesign" rel="nofollow noopener">Buymeacoffee</a></li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Christmas Lantern  LED lamp kit 001 

Decorations

Tylercowen

I waited for a month for the original author to respond wether there will be a V2 for 54mm portafilters, and then decided to make my own. This is not a scaled model, but a re-computed one.<h3>Please follow the original Umikot instructions</h3>Note this is the short version so you need to cut the needle handles. No matter what basket you use, the needles are in 2 lengths - 55mm and 45mm. The way to fit different basket is to adjust the needle depth configuration, which dictates the height of the base part.<h3>Provided configuration</h3>There are various configuraitons provided for you convenience. They are organized by folders. <h3>Other configurations</h3>Please export yourself on <a target="_blank" href="https://cad.onshape.com/documents/4ed8e0cd63f7fd53d8d151ea/v/c049bf0b62bfc4386a22e65d/e/9e8ca6be33363d05ca899d86" rel="nofollow noopener">OnShape</a>. Remember to uncheck Handle groove if you choose anything other than Long Tabs.Note that I made many features available as configurations. So technically it will work for many different sizes.For reference, these are the changes I made.<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:517px;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000039913/design/ff4a0acf-0a8b-41ef-84b8-46db5a194adc.webp"></figure>

Umikot V2 Breville - Planetary Gear Spirograph WDT

Coffee Stuff

TotalChaos

Due to requests I have now created the Tidy System Top Caddy This unit is designed to keep all your most used items on top of your Tidy System for easy access. The Caddy Consists of the below dedicated slots 1. 1x Super Lube holder 2. 2x Glue Stick holders 3. 2x Bambu Scraper holders 4. 5x USB Stick Holders 5. 5x Micro SD Holders 6. 5x Snippers/Pliers Holders 7. 7x SDHC Memory Card Holders 8. 1x Space for odds and bobs The Tidy System can be found using the link below: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/71878#profileId-76020" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/71878#profileId-76020</a>&nbsp;Hope you enjoy :)

Tidy System Top Caddy - For Your Quick Access Tools

Organizations

BEAMink

I have remodeled the 3D Printing deburring tool and fixed some issues.The original was a model I made years ago for myself and friends. I never thought It would get so many downloads and there was a need for this, so I figured I owed it to everyone to remodel it and address some issues with Version 1&nbsp;V2 now has mush easier threads, tighter bit tolerences, (Less wobble), greater bit extension and all around nicer model. &nbsp;Put a little grease where the bit goes before assembly and it helps with seating the bit.&nbsp;Bits @ <a target="_blank" href="https://a.co/d/eMfLUbm" rel="nofollow noopener">https://a.co/d/eMfLUbm</a>&nbsp;Thanks for the support!

3D Printing Deburring Tool V2

Tools

The Big Greek

Complete Rod Cleaner Z-Axis Version No.1 with Logo (simple and fast) Single Version&nbsp;★ New ★ Update from 29.12.2023 <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/112326#profileId-120249" rel="nofollow noopener">Automatic Z-Axis Lube Helper</a> ★ here is the link <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/112326#profileId-120249" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/112326#profileId-120249</a>&nbsp;★ New ★ Update from 21.12.2023 <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/102023#profileId-108654" rel="nofollow noopener">Rod Cleaner V2 Set + Lid + Toolcase Magnet Version</a> ★ here is the link <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/102023#profileId-108654" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/102023#profileId-108654</a>&nbsp;★ New ★ Update ★ <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/99424#profileId-105992" rel="nofollow noopener">Rod Cleaner Set + Tool Case</a> here is the link <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/99424#profileId-105992" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/99424#profileId-105992</a>&nbsp;<h3>★ Dont forget o clean your X-Axis ★ here is the link <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/89719#profileId-98171" rel="nofollow noopener">Carbon Rods Cleaner V2 X-Axis (simple and fast)</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/89719#profileId-96043" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/89719#profileId-96043</a></h3>&nbsp;Based on the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/89719#profileId-98171" rel="nofollow noopener">Carbon Rods Cleaner V2 X-Axis (simple and fast)</a> , I have now designed a Rod Cleaner for the Z-Axis. Again, it's Simple and short time to print.Of course, there is also a version that is a bit smoother but takes a little longer.&nbsp;LET'S GET STARTED!&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_2390fb036d154.gif"></figure><ol><li>Print</li></ol><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_ac8ecc42289ed.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_6d92973f821df.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;2. Take a sponge and cut 2 pieces to the size of 20mm x 30mm, just like with the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/89719#profileId-98171" rel="nofollow noopener">Carbon Rods Cleaner V2 X-Axis (simple and fast)</a> , and press them into the designated openings. Now soak them with ISO<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_70401aa53f222.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_d9d9bf02ef0d1.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;3. Let's start the cleaning!&nbsp;Place the small box around the Z-Axis, hold it with your fingers, and press the desired direction on the display... the cleaning begins :-) Pay attention to the final distance of the Z-Axis Top and Bottom . Do not drive too far, as you could otherwise damage your printer.Cleaning the rear Z-Axis is also possible without disassembling the entire printer. For this, I recommend the Rod Cleaner Z-Axis Complete Version (what a name) here you dont need to hold it all the time, the tweezer makes it for you :-)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_db6ad16220329.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_19af0e1d1c595.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_0242a76fe13eb.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_ac1d6cddb1a58.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;4. The tweezer for the box with the spacer is very convenient. If you use this combination, you have your fingers free and can easily clean your Z-Axis as shown in the pictures. Of course, it can also be used without a spacer.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_fe174a641f46e.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_572c04a99f2e4.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_f1835362a064a.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_9b348ba16ee12.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_05e1c1c9c2c7c.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_e3051c947c0df.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_0205ce3e2f2cf.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_45328085ad19.jpg">&nbsp;&nbsp;4. After you're done, it should look like this :-)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_a85fb86992665.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464529/2023-12-17_d100deacc503.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;5. After cleaning, you should grease the Z-AXIS again. The included grease in the accessories should be sufficient; if not, purchase new grease.&nbsp;easy to use, easy to clean&nbsp;Have fun building and cleaning!&nbsp;if you like my work/project consider supporting me with these options:<ul><li>leave a like</li><li>leave a comment</li><li>download the file</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thebiggreek" rel="nofollow noopener">or By me a Coffee</a></li></ul>I also appreciate comments a lot.

Complete Rod Cleaner Z-Axis Version No.1

Bambulab Maintance Tools

Duane777

Assemble with CA glue,Assemble parts without the lid, and check for proper fit. While holding the sides together, fit the lid by relaxing the sides to engage the hinge pin. Check that the lid moves freely, you can now add a few drops of CA glue seams. The parts fit 3mm into the sides so it's not difficult to get the parts aligned. The PLA profile is a ‘snuggish’ fit, and the ABS is quite loose.&nbsp;Please post makes, and use 2 colors. I printed about 6 of these in PLA and ABS and I was just too tired printing the same thing yet again :)Note: The box width is for q-tips around 76mm the internal width is 80mm. You can change the width to suit yours by scaling all the upright parts in the Z direction. They are all 86mm tall and fit 3mm into the sides so you're left with 80mm.

Q-Tip / Cotton Bud Box

Lifestyle

Zhanchi Wang

24mm x 24mm filament sample

Swatch Sample

Swatch

Thanks to everyone who downloaded and printed V1.I have listened to everyones feedback and made some changes.&nbsp;This is now an improved version with better speed & glide capabilities, it also includes a launcher for ease of use.All you now need is an elastic band for the launcher.&nbsp;Hope you all enjoy the V2, it flys amazing This is best printed in PETG single or multicolour - flex build plate to remove as the wings are fragile. NEW FIGHTER JET GLIDER - DOWNLOAD NOW FOR SOME EXTREME FAST PACE FUNhttps://makerworld.com/en/models/55493#profileId-57047