Chris Man

Squish3D

Do NOT adjust the thickness (Z) in your slicer!! The layers will not come out right. You CAN adjust the other dimensions (X,Y) though to make it bigger or smaller, just not the thickness.&nbsp;These were my settings and colors for my print that you see in the picture. Your results may vary depending on the filament you use and if you have your own HueForge profile saved with different settings.&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm&nbsp;Nozzle: 0.4&nbsp;Filaments Used: PLA Sunlu Black Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA BambuLab Basic Blue Gray Transmission Distance: 3 PLA PolyLite Aqua Blue Transmission Distance: 2.5 PLA Sunlu White Transmission Distance: 5&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #25 (2.08mm) swap to Blue Gray At layer #31 (2.56mm) swap to Aqua Blue At layer #32 (2.64mm) swap to White for the rest

SpiderMan Venom Symbiote - HueForge

hue forge

entroisdimensions_figurine

Charmemelon is now available, and you have the choice between different file formats:<ul><li>STL</li><li>3mf for Multicolor Bambu Lab printer</li><li>3mf for Multicolor Prusa printer</li></ul>Video of printing the model: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/polymaker_figurines/" rel="nofollow noopener">Instagram</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@polymaker_figurines" rel="nofollow noopener">TikTok</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCScmlttdRwRbBA61ZGlUVJg" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube</a> For printing, I used PolyTerra PLA filament from Polymaker: 7 colors version:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574351413305" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Pastel Ice</a>(for the body)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352265273" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Pastel Banana</a> (for belly)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352232505" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Cotton White</a> (for the edge of the shell, white of the eyes )</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574351282233" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Charcoal Black</a> (for pupil)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574351544377" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Army Brown </a> (for the shell)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574351970361" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Candy </a>(for tongue)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352101433" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Lava Red </a>(for eyes)</li></ul>To discover which new models will be released next, follow @polymaker_figurines: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/polymaker_figurines/" rel="nofollow noopener">Instagram</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@polymaker_figurines" rel="nofollow noopener">TikTok</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCScmlttdRwRbBA61ZGlUVJg" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube</a> Join the Figurines Community on <a target="_blank" href="https://discord.com/invite/r2ujMfEb7S" rel="nofollow noopener">Discord</a> Happy Printing!-----------------------------------------------Printer settings on the Bambu Lab X1C<ul><li>Rafts: No</li><li>Supports: Yes</li><li>Resolution: 0.2mm</li><li>Infill: 10%</li><li>Filament brand: Polymaker</li><li>Filament color: Red, Yellow, Black, White, Blue</li><li>Filament material: <a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA</a></li></ul>

squirtle Multicolor

batman

Delphant

<h3>Berserk: Dragonslayer</h3>"That thing was too big to be called a sword. Too big, too thick, too heavy, and too rough, it was more like a large hunk of iron."Inspired by Kentaro Miura's Berserk<ul><li>I created this model in OnShape using the dimensions from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Berserk/comments/2ch5rd/an_engineers_take_on_the_guts_dragonslayer/" rel="nofollow noopener">u/Zerbiak</a>. </li><li>I originally printed this on my university's Gigabot 3+ XL printer, so the models in the pictures will look a bit different than the ones included.</li><li>Included here are two versions: Horizontal Split and Center Split. Horizontal Split only divides the blade horizontally using the vertical biscuits to connect the pieces, while Center Split cuts the blade horizontally and vertically, using both types of biscuits.<ul><li>I recommend printing the Horizontal Split if your printer is capable, as this version should be more rigid. </li></ul></li><li>1 inch ID PVC pipe is used through the entire sword, this also makes up the handle, roughly 70 inches or so. (the OD of the PVC should be roughly 1.3ish in)</li><li>I suggest printing with 3 perimeters to not accidentally remove too much plastic when sanding.<ul><li>If you can print using a larger nozzle, you should be able to reduce this down to 2 perimeters.</li></ul></li><li>Very low infill (I only used 2-5%) to reduce print time and lower its weight.</li><li>I used E6000 adhesive for all of the parts, as well as a wood filler for filling the seams.</li><li>Spray painted with a primer coat, then silver, black, and bronze.</li><li>Fabric needed for the handle, I got a 3ft wide sheet and cut two 1.5 inch wide strips to hot glue on the PVC handle.</li><li>Please let me know if anything does not fit right or needs adjustment, and I'll get on it ASAP. I recommend printing a few parts out first to make sure everything fits and is aligned properly.</li></ul><h4>Assembly:</h4><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:63.32%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/223053/2023-12-01_oostmd6zloxn.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<ul><li>Printed parts and test fit with PVC pipe</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-right" style="width:61.55%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/223053/2023-12-01_9y4pknjh3qxx.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<ul><li>Glued parts together using E6000</li><li>Wood fill for the seams</li><li>Sanded with 220 grit</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:60.47%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/223053/2023-12-01_17126bpgg3b9.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<ul><li>Gray primer 3-4 coats, masked off the handle</li><li>light sand after each layer</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-right" style="width:57.74%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/223053/2023-12-01_dd7hpnubz5xm.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<ul><li>2-3 silver top coats for blade and pommel</li><li>Masked off center and guard</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:64.06%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/223053/2023-12-01_46w70vlzvxh4.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<ul><li>2-3 black top coats for center</li><li>Masked off the blade and part of the pommel</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-right" style="width:63.55%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/223053/2023-12-01_t1gtyh6ulvlz.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<ul><li>2-3 bronze top coats for the guard</li><li>Masked off everything (Not needed, but I like to be safe)</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:71.3%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/223053/2023-12-01_idkm4i4jpew7.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;<ul><li>Finish by hot gluing 2 1.5-inch fabric strips along the PVC pipe</li><li>Tie the ends with extra slack</li></ul>

Berserk: Dragonslayer

cosplay

pinionPlus

Alphonse's head from FMA! File comes in one piece so it will need to be scaled down/ broken into parts. Happy Printing!

Alphonse Elric Helmet 

wearable helmets

Tazzy1992

Pokéball Card stand. best fit for PSA however does work with other grading companies too.&nbsp;The pokéball is printed in 4 parts, the lid requires supports, the rest of the pokéball don't require any additional supports

Pokéball Card Stand

Pokemon

TheBasedDoge

4 Post Storage Lift for Hotwheels / Mini GT Cars Simply clicks together, no hardware needed.

4 Post Storage Lift for Hotwheels / Mini GT Cars

hotwheels

mattzstudios

Toilet paper holder that rests on floor. Holds 3 toilet paper rolls.Prints as two parts. Top slides easily into bottom. Glue together from inside.Inner Diameter of 5 ¾" -Fits all toilet paper rolls.Stands 14 ¼" high.

Toilet Paper Holder Stand

household

digitallyforgeddesigns

Looking for a piece of pop culture to add to your 3D design collection? Look no further than this intricately designed Mandalorian N-1 Starship 3D model available on makerworld.com. This model is a meticulous re-release of the iconic Starship seen on The Mandalorian series, made exclusively for personal use. Immerse yourself in the Star Wars universe with this fan art model, featuring the highest level of attention to detail and accuracy. Various screen-captured images from the series have been used as reference for this design to make sure every engine part and gun detail is as accurate as possible. Browse through our available images to understand the quality of this model further. For any fan of The Mandalorian, this 3D model is a must-have addition to your collection. Find it on makerworld.com by searching for the "Mandalorian N-1 Starship" under the "Pop Culture" category. Let your love for the series bear fruit in this magnificent 3D model offering.

Mandalorian N-1 Starship

star wars

Markharris1989

A stand for the Lego Millennium Falcon, remixed from <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790242" rel="nofollow">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790242</a> to fit on a Prusa i3 M3s+ buildplate. Basically I removed 1mm from both sides of the base, which doesn't really effect anything. If you are slicing this piece yourself you need to turn off the skirt.I have also orientated all of the parts so they load how they should be printed.This video covers how to install it <a href="https://youtu.be/2WmCWt_RyTk" rel="nofollow">https://youtu.be/2WmCWt_RyTk</a> Happy Printing!&nbsp;

Stand for Lego Millennium Falcon 75198 (REMIX)

lego 

humebeam

Update August 22, 2023&nbsp;Rollers updated to version 1.3, offering slightly increased tolerances against the roller slots. Thanks to @AdamL for the feedback!&nbsp;Update August 5, 2023&nbsp;The rollers were redesigned and updated to version 1.2. I've found in testing that tapering them from larger diameter in the edges to smaller in the middle will do a better job of forcing and keeping the spools centered than the old design. There are still three sizes, the largest one (16.5 mm) is similar in size to the stock roller while the others are smaller to allow for larger diameter spools.It might be a good idea picking up some extra 693-ZZ bearings (link in the BOM below) and have a set of each so you can quickly switch rollers for normal and smaller spools.&nbsp;AboutThis is a set of improved rear rollers developed for Hydra AMS. It will also work with the standard Bambu Lab AMS but I've only tested it briefly. The diameter of the roller is around 2 mm less than the stock rollers, allowing larger diameter spools without having to use a lid spacer. It's also slightly wider than the stock roller. There are also other sizes available depening on your requirement, see more belowAnother improvement is that the roller bearings are moved from sitting outside the roller on a thin 3 mm plastic pin to being installed in the actual printed roller with an M3 socket head screw for strength.<blockquote>With the current Hydra AMS (1.08) and the standard rear rollers, the maximum diameter of the spools with the lid closed is around 202.5 mm. With these improved rear rollers you can use up to around 203.5 mm spools with the lid closed.</blockquote>Be aware that smaller 1 Kg spools than standard, say 190 mm diameter, will rub against the bottom of the Hydra AMS if you use the rear-most position of the rollers. For these you can either use one of the larger rollers or use the adjustable socket head casings in the raised position:<ul><li>socket-head-casing-adjustable-1.3.3mf</li></ul>BOM - Bill of Materials&nbsp;You can print the parts in just about any filament you like. You need some M3 hex socket heads (around 25 mm is fine, shorter or longer will also work). I usually recommend this kit which I've had for years and use for most of my designs and builds.<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9julXz" rel="nofollow noopener">440 pcs M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Kit</a></li></ul>If you do not want to reuse the stock roller bearings or want a spare set / different sized rollers, you can buy some extra bearings:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EzRwOoX" rel="nofollow noopener">693-ZZ bearings</a></li></ul>Which should I print?&nbsp;The stock rear rollers have a diameter of around 16.10 mm near the edges. Depending on if you want to raise or lower the spools, print the appropriate roller:&nbsp;Example A) You have a large diameter spool (202 mm). Using the standard rear roller it rubs against the roof of the AMS. Use a smaller rear roller (try 13.5 mm or 14.5 mm).Example B) You have a small diameter spool (190 mm). Using the standard rear roller it rubs against the bottom of the AMS. User a larger rear roller (try 16.5 mm or 17.0 mm).&nbsp;Print Settings&nbsp;Print the parts in the direction I have set them, no supports are required. Use random seam. Print a set of one rear roller and two socket head casings for each roller you want to replace:<ul><li>rear-roller-for-hydra-ams-14.5mm-1.3.3mf</li><li>socket-head-casing-1.3.3mf</li></ul><blockquote>If you use a stock Bambu Lab AMS or an earlier version of Hydra AMS (1.06 or earlier), print this instead: rear-roller-for-bambu-ams-14.5mm-1.3.3mf</blockquote>How To Use&nbsp;First, carefully remove the bearings from the stock rear roller. You can use pliers to pull them off:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/466667527/draft/2023-09-18_7x1hiwmqs1oc.jpg"></figure>Next, press in the bearing into the printed part, one on each side:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/466667527/draft/2023-09-18_zpyxsmj8ba8f.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/466667527/draft/2023-09-18_v61ch00ub8qz.jpg"></figure>Next, slide in the M3 socket head into the casing and the roller:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/466667527/draft/2023-09-18_q86pbwgprhtt.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/466667527/draft/2023-09-18_l0e7acdicgav.jpg"></figure>Now you can install it in the AMS:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/466667527/draft/2023-09-18_ilw57b7nx7o6.jpg"></figure>If you need to remove a bearing from the roller you can use a 2.5 mm hex tool, insert it then put a little pressure by twisting to grab the center ring then pull straight out:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/466667527/draft/2023-09-18_1qdooogikrb3.jpg"></figure>

Hydra AMS - Improved Rear Rollers

x1c upgrades

braga3dprint

The 3D model of a lightbox featuring Pikachu from Pokémon is an electrifying tribute to the world's favorite pocket monster. Pikachu, with its signature rosy cheeks and adorable expression, takes center stage, ready to unleash a bolt of lightning. This intricately designed rendition captures the essence of the Pokémon franchise, showcasing Pikachu's iconic design and undeniable charm. When illuminated, the lightbox brings Pikachu to life, making it a delightful addition to any Pokémon fan's collection. Let the warm glow of this lightbox brighten up your space and transport you to the enchanting world of Pokémon, where Pikachu's electrifying adventures await. ⚡🌟🔴&nbsp;WARNING!- remove purge line at the beginning of the print! Materials and tools: - glue gun - aluminum tape - led strip (here is the one I <a target="_blank" href="https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005004253095880.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.16.1df1caa45b098E&gatewayAdapt=glo2bra" rel="nofollow noopener">use</a>): simple 1m white led USB- soldering iron (optional)&nbsp;RECOMMENDATIONS- use a textured PEI sheet - use the print profile, it has quite a few setting changes that help achieve the best results - make a hole for the USB strip wherever you like it best with the soldering iron or in the slicer- use the aluminum tape on the inside of the backplate to help with light diffusion - glue the LED's the further away from the colored design possible; placing them too close ruins the diffusion and the individual LED's become visible Bambu Studio Settings: I always recommend using the print profile I provided since it has settings with which I've been able to get the best results. If you choose not to here are the main slicer settings I recommend: - preferences (ctrl + P) → activate developer settings → Quality →Advanced → First Layer Flow Ratio: 1.04 - Quality → Wall generator → Arachne - Quality → Wall transitioning threshold angle → 50º - Strength → Advanced → Infill/wall overlap → 20% Assembly video: <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNsShLmXYh0"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QNsShLmXYh0" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>