Caedmon86

kevToeg

The 3D-printed Easter egg with a labyrinth features a textured, slightly rough surface, adding a fascinating tactile element to its design. This unique surface texture not only enhances the visual appeal of the egg but also invites hands to explore its contours and pathways.&nbsp;This Easter decoration is appealing to both children and adults, inviting them to interact with the labyrinth in a practical manner. Whether displayed as a decorative piece or used as a playful puzzle, the 3D-printed Easter egg with textured surface and labyrinth is sure to captivate and delight all who encounter it.&nbsp;For content: inner diameter 20mm, 40mm height.&nbsp;Nest/Stand: https://makerworld.com/en/models/395792#profileId-297107&nbsp;Generated with https://www.me.uk/puzzlebox/.

Easter egg with labyrinth 63mm

Easter

FlorinV

Great desk accessory, to look at, to play with(easy to spin) and to use.&nbsp;Update 27.01.2024: Increase the filament infill and walls of the arm (to better hold it&#39;s shape in time, as the magnetic force tries to deform it). Changed one of the screws to be a shorter version, in case your magnets are too strong and need a shorter one to fit.Update 31.01.2024: Added another pen model (Hexagonal style). There is a new profile for this one. Enjoy !&nbsp;Features:<ul><li>Parts needed: 3 magnets with size 10x2mm. Probably you can use smaller magnets also, but you would have to add maybe one more magnet to the support arm. You need to play with it. Also 8x2mm magnets should be fine, but this is not tested by me (someone else tried).</li><li>No AMS needed to print it multicolor.</li><li>Two different pen designs to choose from. You can use them without support and magnets, if you want.</li><li>The pen design included in the main profile, is the stronger one, clean and with a special cutout that can be used to check the level of ink in your reserve.</li><li>The optional pen design is using a thin insert to make the pen multicolored without using AMS or wasting a lot of filament and time.</li><li>Optional tag caps to attach to the support arm. You can add one character to each cap and form a gamer tag, a name, an abbreviation etc. Or add some color pattern, whatever you like.</li><li>Designed for Pilot reserves ( 0.7mm), but can work with any pen reserve as long as you cut it at 122mm length. Just search with google something similar with: Pilot FriXion Pen Refills, 0.7 mm</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000146589/design/388de27a-0257-4f7d-870e-8d9665c7c1de.jpg"></figure><ul><li>If you use Pilot reserve, you have to use the little spacer as displayed in assembly pictures or video.</li><li>If you choose to use another type of pen reserve, just cut it at 122 mm length and don&#39;t use the spacer anymore. Tested with simple pen reserve like the one bellow, and it works also. Just cut it to 122mm length and don&#39;t add the little spacer provided for Pilot reserves.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000146589/design/2024-01-19_8d03559413d1e.png"></figure>Assembly guide:<ul><li>Please check the video at the end with full setup and please use subtitles, as I&#39;ve added some useful information while assembling it.</li></ul>Pen:<ul><li>Please remove carefully the brim from the body of the pen after printing it. Usually if the bed sticks good, when you pull the body pen, the brim with separate easily. I&#39;ve setup a small gap between pen and brim, to be sure it sticks well, as it&#39;s a tall and narrow part.</li><li>Attention! Before gluing the magnet cap to the pen, be sure the magnet is facing the right direction to be attracted by the magnets on the support.  Carefully glue the magnet cap, to not get glue everywhere.</li><li>Please check bellow all the parts of the pen and how they are connected.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 71.29%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000146589/design/2024-01-19_6cf57802c8d71.jpg"></figure>Support:<ul><li>Carefully remove the supports from the base part.</li><li>Insert the arm into the base and screw in the provided screw. There are 2 versions of the screw in the profile, one longer and one shorter. Depending on your magnets power, use the one that works better for you.</li><li>Be sure you screw it in enough so that the base can lay flat on the table. Change the screw with the shorter version if you need to.</li><li>Add two magnets (10x2mm) on the top hole of the arm. Before gluing them, be sure they are aligned with the magnet from the pen, so that they attract each other!</li><li>After everything is setup, you can use the bottom screw to fine tune the distance between pen magnet and support arm magnets, so that it holds the pen good, but don&#39;t pull up the pen from the base.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 78.12%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000146589/design/2024-01-19_ff9970461619c.jpg"></figure><figure class="media"></figure>&nbsp;Step by step on how to customize the letter caps:<ul><li>you open the &#34;8 blank caps to customize&#34; into Bambu studio, </li><li>select one of the caps objects, </li><li>click on the TEXT icon -add one letter into the &#34;Input Text&#34; field </li><li>move your mouse cursor over the cap and click when you center it </li><li>you can move it around again by selecting the &#34;text_shape&#34; object later under the &#34;button.stl&#34; object </li><li>Repeat for each letter you want. (you have 8 caps into the profile, but you can clone them to have more if you want)  </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000146589/design/2024-03-18_a5b871a5e0d65.png"></figure>

Magnetic Levitating Holder & 3 pen models

work

AlexY_

Update: I&#39;ve finally gotten around to finishing up the motorized version of this design. Check it out here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/495262" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/495262</a>&nbsp;<figure class="media"></figure><figure class="media"></figure>This is a complete rework of my functional escalator model from 2022. It is a ground-up redesign incorporating a bunch of significant changes, including the following:<ul><li>Chain links now sit directly against the escalator steps. This allows the entire chain and step assembly to be put together in 1 step and reduces the sliding friction experienced by the mechanism.</li><li>An assembly jig is provided that holds the steps together when installing chain links, reducing assembly time and difficulty. No more partial disassembly to get the chain on both sides of the steps.</li><li>Fine-tuned the sizing and geometry of the moving parts. The model incorporates larger and fewer steps resulting in a lower part count. Larger pins on the steps reduce friction and make the parts easier to print.</li><li>Steps now have a realistic groove pattern.</li><li>Variants of the parts are provided that eliminate all M3 nuts, with the bolts going directly into the plastic, reducing part count and simplifying assembly. Note that the hex nut version is still available if you&#39;re concerned about stripping out the holes in the plastic.</li></ul>This model comes in two variants:<ul><li>A standard size, containing 30 steps, which is slightly bigger than the 2022 design.</li><li>A mini/short size, containing 22 steps.</li></ul>If you want to make an even smaller, palm sized fidget version, I&#39;ve created a much smaller variant here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/447059#profileId-353657" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/447059#profileId-353657</a>  &nbsp;If you&#39;d prefer buying one assembled, I&#39;m now selling these on Etsy! Visit my store here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/AYMakes/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.etsy.com/shop/AYMakes/</a><h3>Parts required</h3>Non-Printed<ul><li>8 M3x14mm bolts (can substitute these for longer bolts, within reason)</li><li>5 M3x10mm bolts (can also substitute these for longer bolts)</li></ul>PrintedThe standard size and mini escalator share all parts except for the track guides and handrails. You will need:<ul><li>30 steps for standard size, or 22 steps for mini size</li><li>60 chain links for standard size, or 44 chain links for mini size</li><li>2 end caps</li><li>1 left outer track guide and 1 right outer track guide</li><li>1 left inner track guide and 1 right inner track guide</li><li>1 left handrail and 1 right handrail</li><li>1 spindle</li><li>1 drive-side sprocket and 1 non-drive-side sprocket</li></ul>I recommend printing the steps, sprockets and spindle in a different color from the rest of the model to provide some contrast.<h3>Print settings and tips</h3>Although easier to print than the 2022 model, this design is still relatively challenging to print and works best with a well-calibrated printer.<ul><li>0.15 layer height or lower strongly recommended for steps and chain links. 0.2mm will work for the other parts, though lower layer heights may be smoother.</li><li>Infill recommended to be 5% or higher.</li><li>No need for supports, rafts, etc. The steps may be prone to warping due to the thin pins on the sides, so make sure your bed is very clean to give it its best chance of sticking.</li><li>I only tested this model with PLA, but PETG and others may work too. It is critical that stringing and blobbing be kept to a minimum on all parts that slide against each other (chain links, steps, track guides), so tune your retraction and pressure advance values the best you can.<ul><li>Important note: Some filaments seem to have higher sliding friction than others, especially ones with metallic glitter added in, such as Prusament&#39;s Galaxy filament colors. For best results avoid printing the track guides in these materials.</li></ul></li><li>Make sure your bed leveling is dialed in very well when printing the steps and chain links. After printing, verify that the chain links are able to slip onto the steps without resistance. Any friction here will make it harder to move the mechanism in the assembled model.</li></ul><h3>Assembly guide</h3><figure class="media"></figure><ol><li>(Not shown in video) If applicable, press M3 nuts into the inner track guides (2 locations each) and end caps (4 locations each). If they don&#39;t fit tightly, dab on a small amount of glue to keep them in - hot glue or superglue should work. This will make assembly easier.</li><li>Place all steps into the assembly jig. Ensure that the longer pins are closer to the outer edge of the jig, and that the flat sides of the steps are facing outward as well.</li><li>Place chain links onto the longer (outer) pins. These should be placed such that the links alternate between being below or above its neighbors.</li><li>Place the right inner track guide into the center of the steps. Make sure the circular hole (which will hold the spindle) is on the top (right) end and that the inner (shorter) pins all rest inside the inner groove, with the outer pins sitting against the outer edge of the guide.</li><li>Place the right handrail guide on top of the assembly. The outer pins of the steps should all be contained within the guide.</li><li>Place the drive (right) side sprocket onto the top right side of the right inner track guide. The sprocket teeth should mesh with the outer pins of the steps.</li><li>Place the right outer track guide on top of the assembly. Verify that all the step pins are contained within the part, and that the outer track guide sits flush against the handrail guide and inner guide.</li><li>Attach the inner and outer guide using 2 M3x10mm bolts.</li><li>Flip the whole assembly over so that the assembly jig faces upwards. Carefully remove the assembly jig, making sure that none of the steps get pulled upwards with it. If this occurs, repeatedly tap on the jig while slowly lifting it to free the stuck steps.</li><li>The other side of the step piece pins should now be facing upwards. Repeat step 3 for this side.</li><li>Repeat steps 4-7 for this side. When installing the sprocket, make sure that the holes and teeth line up with the sprocket on the opposite side.</li><li>Insert the spindle from the right side, passing through both sprockets and both inner guides. The spindle should fit into the cutout in the non-drive-side sprocket. Attach the non-drive-side sprocket to the spindle using a single M3x10mm bolt.</li><li>Attach the end cap pieces to the top and bottom ends of the model. Secure each one with four M3x14mm bolts.</li><li>Give the knob a turn to see if the mechanism moves smoothly. If not, proceed to the troubleshooting steps below.</li></ol>Troubleshooting<ul><li>Mechanism completely frozen<ul><li>Make sure all the lower (shorter) pins of the steps are sitting within the groove of the inner guides.</li><li>Check the same thing for the outer/handrail guides.</li><li>Ensure that all the steps are installed in the correct orientation. Refer to the picture in step 2.</li><li>Verify the chain is attached properly to all steps.</li></ul></li><li>Mechanism works but steps sometimes get stuck in the same spot(s)<ul><li>Check for burrs, strings, or blobs on the outer or inner track guides, and file them off.</li></ul></li><li>Generally hard to turn but smooth<ul><li>Check that the chain links loosely fit onto the step pins. If there&#39;s significant resistance, this will make the steps harder to move. This usually indicates that your bed is leveled too close and the first layer is squishing out too much. You can increase your z offset or add some elephant foot compensation to resolve.</li><li>The steps should be able to freely move left and right by about 1mm or so. If they appear to ride tightly against both sides, consider printing the chain links at a lower Z scale (e.g. 90% or 80%) to make a bit more room.</li><li>A small amount of grease can free things up if still not totally smooth. Add a bit to the inner track guide groove to lubricate the lower pins, and add a bit to the inner surface of the handrail guide to lubricate the upper pins and chain links.</li></ul></li><li>Squeaky<ul><li>Grease should help with this - see above</li></ul></li><li>Sprockets not driving chain or slipping<ul><li>Make sure the spindle is fully inserted into the non-drive-side sprocket and that the bolt is fully tightened.</li></ul></li></ul>

Functional Escalator Model - Redux

liam

minivanbuzz

Mettez en valeur la corne de déco Viking avec ce porte corne ;)

Porte corne Viking

wedding

Adam L

<h4>What this is:</h4>This is a collection of all of my PA/Nylon and similar (PACF) filament profiles for all filaments I've used of this type. I will update it as I tune new filament brands and colors. They are generally tuned for flow rate, pressure advance, and temperature and volumetric flow limits and overrides. They're a good working starting point for anyone struggling with a filament. I've also tuned other types of filaments (see <a href="https://www.printables.com/@AdamL/models" rel="nofollow">my models here</a>) and you should find, by category:<ul><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/457260-tpuflexible-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca" rel="nofollow">TPU / Flexibles</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/455802-petg-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-slicer" rel="nofollow">PETG</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/455802-petg-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-slicer" rel="nofollow">Polycarbonate & Polycarbonate-CF</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/457248-pla-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-slicer" rel="nofollow">PLA / PLA + / Silk PLA</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/457271-absasa-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-slic" rel="nofollow">ABS / ASA</a></li></ul>CHT-Nozzle versions also available (0.4 mm , Brass)<ul><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/539704-chtnozzlepetg-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuor" rel="nofollow">PETG</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/540552-chtnozzlepla-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorc" rel="nofollow">PLA</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/542033-chtnozzletpu-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorc" rel="nofollow">TPU</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/542058-chtnozzle-asaabs-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bamb" rel="nofollow">ABS/ASA</a></li></ul><h4> </h4><h4>How to use:</h4> These 3MF files are designed for use in Orcaslicer/Bambuslicer, but will work best in Orcaslicer, because it supports using a fixed pressure-advance value in the slicer. <ul><li>Load the 3MF file for the filament of your choosing. Files are named as <Brand>__.3mf.</li><li>(optional, recommended): Save the filament and/or print presets for your own use to your user presets for future use.</li><li>Remove the calibration cube dummy object and put your desired object in.</li><li>Print! But, turn off flow calibration option in your prints! The more reliable PA value stored in the filament profile will be used instead, and you can skip the wasted startup time, too!<ul><li><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/455802/rich_content/dcbf8f87-13d5-4362-a0f5-c9b1a895b70a/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22ff02b71c-6cd6-4ebc-b38a-446080d43e9e%22%2C%22w%22%3A440%2C%22h%22%3A110%7D"> </li></ul></li><li>If you want to use these in Bambu slicer, you won't get the PA values applied automatically sadly, and you'll have to do that with a <a href="https://forum.bambulab.com/t/flow-calibration/892/15" rel="nofollow">manual GCODE in the filament's start GCODE</a>. This is really annoying to do for each filament, but it does work. However I suggest you try Orcaslicer for this reason.</li></ul>&nbsp;<h4>Important notes:</h4><ul><li>These profiles are tuned on an X1C, with a hardened steel 0.4 nozzle installed, for use with a range of layer heights. If you have a different nozzle size or nozzle kind (steel/brass), these will be only starting points and you should re-tune most of the variables except maybe temperature.</li><li>Each 3MF also contains some of my own optimized settings for 0.16 mm prints, which I typically use, but these tuned filament profiles are designed/tuned to work across a variety of different print profiles.</li></ul><h4>Background:</h4>I use the <a href="https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer" rel="nofollow">Orca Slicer </a>variant of Bambu's slicer because it offers finer-grained control over the slicing process and makes tuning and using tuned filament profiles much easier than Bambu's official slicer, which lacks good calibration routines for some of the most important variables in good printing: flow rate, pressure advance, and temperature and volumetric flow limits. This is particularly true for Bambu's Pressure Advance (<a href="https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/issues/348" rel="nofollow">they incorrectly call this “flow”</a>) calibration, which forces you to run it every time and is unreliable, particularly on the popular textured PEI surface.Each of these profiles has been tuned for:&nbsp;<ul><li>Flow rate (aka extrusion multiplier)</li><li>Pressure advance (aka linear advance)</li><li>Temperature (with temp towers)</li><li>Volumetric flow limits (my settings are a little conservative based on printing the max volumetric flow rate calibration inside Orcaslicer)</li><li>Overrides (I typically try to avoid using these unless I have to)</li></ul>&nbsp;Disclaimer: These are free to use, and I do not own the OrcaSlicer calibration cube model, i'm just using it here as a convenient way to distribute the profiles.

- PA/Nylon - Tuned X1C Print Profiles for Bambu/Orca-Slicer

calibration

OrangeSs

A handy helper for beginners with chinese chopsticks + 2 basic stick rest stands

Easter

work

liam

wedding

calibration

tools