Blue1982

3D Print Masters Hub

Measuring Cup Set-Great measuring cup set!-Easy print, designed this way to avoid print supports 👍🏻-Tie together thru hole in handle.-Please like and subscribe! More to come!-See bio for more exclusive print project ideas.🔥🔥 Check out my PRO MODELS HERE! <a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/users/FabulousFilaments/3d-models" rel="nofollow noopener">https://cults3d.com/en/users/FabulousFilaments/3d-models</a> 🔥🔥

Measuring Cup Set

Tools

Albi27

This tool can help you with soldering, personally I prefer to have this container so I can hold the soldering in one hand and the soldering iron in the other. This is designed for a tin size of less than 1mm.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:38.25%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/642829/2024-03-05_0e92cd74afe56.gif"></figure>ManualUsing this container is quite simple, you have to insert the tin into the hole at the bottom of the inside of the container then wrap it up. then the internal part must be inserted into the external case by passing the solder through the hole in the upper part and then screwing the two parts to close the container.&nbsp;PrintingI recommend printing the internal part with a light filament and the external part with a dark one, to have more contrast and facilitate the control of the remaining tin

Solder Container

Tech

shawn.mek

My son requested some wolverine claws, and since I had just printed a print in place spring box I was like ‘I bet we could make some claws spring loaded!’&nbsp;Famous last words…&nbsp;Fortunately (or unfortunately?) the spring idea proof of concept worked immediately:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-13_5780d7bc20069.gif">&nbsp;So we were off! And then a billion iterations later, we get to this first release version.&nbsp;It's a bit tricky to assemble, but I'll try to get some how to's in the future if needed. Please leave feedback on what I might do to enhance it - or let me know points of failure that I can strengthen.&nbsp;Thanks!&nbsp;For Assembly, you may want to watch this youtube where Uncle Jessy successfully assembles it (<a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/PM3DsiuDIDw?si=Ku4l55NfCI200hou" rel="nofollow noopener">https://youtu.be/PM3DsiuDIDw?si=Ku4l55NfCI200hou</a>). &nbsp;HAND STRAP - This was for my son, and I actually tried using the Polycam photogrammetry app on my phone to 3D scan his hand, and then made the strap using that :). It worked suprisingly well for HIS hand. I scaled up the strap for bigger hands, but you can also cut or delete a piece to make it bend and fit different sizes.&nbsp;&nbsp;ASSEMBLY&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_a7a31b9c9d4a4.jpg">&nbsp;The brake.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_2e8e8b3f94888.jpg">Stick the ‘trigger’ down through the brake sideways and then turn it (somewhat gently, don't break :))<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_034ac41c92e4e.jpg">&nbsp;Put the springs into the brake<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_23fc35f069994.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_0a283aa1fd7bc.jpg">&nbsp;TRICKY PART -No to putting the brake on this way (it won't have enough space to release):<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_ecf791bfd8bc5.jpg">Put it on the other side (I've never had to glue, but tolerances may necessitate that - the mechanism itself actually holds it together pretty well regardless), and then stretch/pull it over to the front (the springs will now have arm length and springiness for the brake mechanism):<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_d14067333d86c.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_1106349f4ddcc.jpg">Now put the claws through while holding the brake out of the way. Depending on tolerances you may need to move the claws in and out of the guides to break it in:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_1479d7245892c.jpg">Snap the springs into claws and top plate, and then top plate into bottom plate:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_0c259e60d24bd.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_a30a3d439e271.jpg">Pull down brake and pull out claws, slip strap around extended claw spring and onto the assembly:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_d40f2a0eb72e9.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_0233270d2b7b3.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_aebe1855448f5.jpg">&nbsp;&nbsp;

Wolverine Claws - Retractable, Spring-loaded, Trigger (No extra non printed parts needed)

Spielzeug

Marcel_X

<h2>Summary</h2>Are you struggling to get the ball off the magnetic cannon? Fingers to big? Nails too long? Then this is a useful tool to remove the ball. It holds a magnet on either side and allows you to easily pick the ball out of the cannon.Printed in PLA. Straight up with a brim. Two magnets are required. 8mm round and 8mm in height. Strength should be N48 or higher. Use a dab of CA glue to hold them in place.A little bit of sanding may be required if you printer produces an elephant foot on the model.<h2>Print Settings</h2>Rafts: No Supports: No&nbsp;Resolution: 0.2mm Filament: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&field-keywords=colorFabb+PLA%2FPHA" rel="nofollow noopener"> colorFabb PLA/PHA </a> Green Notes: You can print this with a brim. (Optional if you have a very good bed adhesion).

Gravitrax magnetic cannon ball remover

Gravitrax

3DPrintable.art

A modern looking statuette. An ideal Valentine's Day gift or a stylish decorative piece for any home.&nbsp;It can be used as a table statuette or hang on the wall. Be creative on the filament selection and share your final results.&nbsp;Please note that printing the table version of the model require a small amount of supports.&nbsp;COMMERCIAL LICENSE AVAILABLE: <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/3DPA" rel="nofollow noopener">https://patreon.com/3DPA</a>&nbsp;Check out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/943536974" rel="nofollow noopener">our other models</a>. Your likes and downloads support more content.&nbsp;Happy printing!&nbsp;

Lovers Kiss Statuette

Deko

Saber3D

*Light Fury not included*&nbsp;Check all my models out at <a target="_blank" href="https://saber-3d.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">www.Saber-3D.com</a> &nbsp;Follow our socials to see new models! &nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/saber.3d" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.instagram.com/saber.3d</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@saber3d" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.tiktok.com/@saber3d</a> &nbsp;Flexi Toothless can Stand, Sit, and Flap Its Wings!&nbsp;It is a great print for those who love to fidget. It does not require supports and prints well in PLA.&nbsp;No Supports necessary!&nbsp;Not all filaments are created equal, If your having issues with wing joints, I suggest increasing or decreasing wing size by 1% until you have the desired fit.&nbsp;For personal non-commercial use only. Please do NOT redistribute the files to anyone else.&nbsp;Want to sell prints or just enjoy the instant access to all my models? join our All Access tier on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/Saber3D" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a>. &nbsp;We really appreciate your support!&nbsp;Please share images of your prints, we love to see them!

Flexi Toothless Dragon (3MF Multi-color)

flexi

GekoPrime

The original is amazing, I rebuilt it in CAD in preparation to organize my own box of cables. There are a few tweaks that I think are nice:<ul><li>Bigger clearances<ul><li>The hinge won't stick or break as easily</li><li> </li></ul></li><li>Different latching mechanism<ul><li>More positive engagement, easier to open</li><li> </li></ul></li><li>The cavities in the core piece go all the way through<ul><li>Faster print</li><li>No bridging</li><li>Less material</li><li>Easier to operate</li><li>Built-in handle or hanger</li><li> </li></ul></li><li>Larger, flatter design<ul><li>Larger bend radius = less damage to cables</li><li> </li></ul></li><li>Parametric design<ul><li>Customize the cable diameter, bend radius, wall thickness, height, octagon vs hexagon, etc</li></ul></li></ul>I recommend disabling brims and supports for this modelAs usual, post your make or feedback in the comments! I want to know if the parts fuse together or the latch is too tight or too loose&nbsp;

Cable winder with parametric CAD. Print in place cable organizer, wire spool for pegboard

Organization

suit1337

3D scan of skull found on the Battle of Visby, where on 27th of July 1361 the Danes fought Gutnic Peasants.The human skull found at the Battle of Visby is a grim reminder of the brutality of medieval warfare. The skull shows clear evidence of a severe axe wound to the head, likely inflicted during the battle. The wound is deep and jagged, suggesting a powerful blow delivered with significant force. The discovery of this skull offers a sobering glimpse into the violent reality of medieval warfare. It serves as a reminder of the human cost of conflict and the lasting impact that violence can have on individuals and communities.Find further information and historical context on this specific model here:<ul><li><a href="http://ortogonline.com/doc/pt_br/OrtogOnLineMag/5/Fotogrametria.html" rel="nofollow">http://ortogonline.com/doc/pt_br/OrtogOnLineMag/5/Fotogrametria.html</a></li><li><a href="https://nybreaking.com/scientists-recreate-the-face-of-a-medieval-warrior-hit-in-the-face-with-an-axe-in-1361/" rel="nofollow">https://nybreaking.com/scientists-recreate-the-face-of-a-medieval-warrior-hit-in-the-face-with-an-axe-in-1361/</a></li><li><a href="https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-11385285/Scientists-recreate-face-medieval-warrior-hit-face-AXE-1361.html" rel="nofollow">https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-11385285/Scientists-recreate-face-medieval-warrior-hit-face-AXE-1361.html</a></li><li><a href="https://historiska.se/upptack-historien/object/260727" rel="nofollow">https://historiska.se/upptack-historien/object/260727</a> </li></ul><h4>Source / Credits:</h4>The original model was scanned by the Swedish History Museum (Historiska museet) and published under the Title <a href="https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/cranium-with-injuries-260727-19345c7d94774a51bdbac3744c5e57ea" rel="nofollow">Cranium with injuries - 260727</a> on Sketchfab. The file was licensed under a CC-BY license.be aware that this is not a CGI object, it is a 3D scan of a (former) living human. handle and treat it with necessary respect (so please don't remix it as tissue dispenser or doorknob)&nbsp;<h4>Notes:</h4>be aware that this model is intended to be an an educational model or replica for a museum/exhibision in historical context. though it is a scan or a real human skull, it is not 100 % anatomically correct (in a medical context). first of all, the intracranial cavity is solid (with the foramen magnum capped off on the inside) also, due to some degradation, smaller features are not preserved well and erroded or broken off (like parts of the nasal bone or missing teeth) or shifted to places they don't belong<h4>Printing:</h4>i've printend the lower jaw and skull with 0,12 mm layer height (adaptive) - skull in one piece on P1P takes about 36 hours to complete - removing the supports is a bit fiddly, but when you use organic supports, it is manageable - if you have the possibility to print with soluble supports, i highly recommend doing this - i recommend printing on a raft with a more generous interface layer spacing, to ensure the underside of the parts will be nice too&nbsp;i thought about splitting up the model - if there is demand, i'll provide some precut / sliced files&nbsp;