Benevolent

Infinity 3D Prints

IF YOU FIND THE JOINTS GETTING LOOSE OVER TIME . JUST DISASSEMBLE & TAKE CA GLUE AND LINE THE CUP UP ,LET DRY AND THEN REASSEMBLE . THIS WILL TAKE UP THE SLACK AND MAKE IT TIGHT AGAIN ! I UPDATED MY LED KIT ARM TO ACCOMADATE THE BLINK MINI CAM. So now it’s a light and a cam together. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/382181/2024-01-01_d15c1176ad3038.gif"></figure>MakeSure TO FOLLOW FOR MORE !! <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/382181/2024-01-01_6acc1ebfdc166.gif"></figure>

BLINK MINI CAM SURROUND AND ARM (V2 LED ARM)

isaac

Tom Fullen - Switch

I know there are many of these of the Moon however, I wanted to create my own to learn how to make other planets and other potential spherical objects. This Moon globe seems to be more detailed to me and upon sharing a picture of my make to Reddit, a few people wanted me to share this so here it is! This has an 80mm opening on the base to set on a 10cm LED lighted puck. I purchased <a target="_blank" href="https://share.temu.com/qjOKfzsDJGA" rel="nofollow noopener">this one</a> for another project but it worked out great for this.&nbsp;<a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/61976#profileId-64438" rel="nofollow">Check out my Mars Lamp for the BambuLab LED Light Kit here!</a>&nbsp;Print Settings:.20mm Layers6 Walls100% InfillNo Supports &nbsp;For information on the NASA SVS CGI Moon Elevation Maps I used visit https://svs.gsfc.nasa.gov/cgi-bin/details.cgi?aid=4720

SVS NASA Moon Globe

Things to Make

K2_Kevin

<h3>THE TEST DISC</h3>The Bambu Printers do not have an easy Z-Offset baby steping interface. If you notice your prints do not have a perfectly smooth first/bottom layer (you see layer lines), you can change the z-offset in Bambu Studio to give it more squish.Goto to Printer Settings | Machine G-code |Machine start G-code. You will need to scroll down until you find the section for z-offset on textured build plate. Change the value one at a time (from the default -0.04 to -0.05 etc.) and retest with a Test Disc. change this to a higher negitive number brings the bed closer to the nozzle. WARNING if you change this number incorrectly, you could cause damage to your bed, nozzle or other parts. Do this at your own risk!&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019385/design/2023-09-26_40c0e7cdbdbdf.png">BAMBU X1C Example Above: I started at the default z-offset = -0.04, using this calibration disc, my z-offset ended up at -0.10 (perfect smooth 1st. Layer, if it was to close, backoff to -0.09). Your Z-offset results may be different. This process can also be done for other plates as well, you notice I also changed the “Cool Plate”.&nbsp;Can be found in the middle of Machine gcode - Example:;========== For Textured PEI Plate, Cool Plate ========================================= ;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type} {if curr_bed_type==&#34;Textured PEI Plate&#34;} G29.1 Z{-0.07} ; &lt;-------for Textured PEI Plate {endif} {if curr_bed_type==&#34;High Temp Plate&#34;} G29.1 Z{-0.01} ; &lt;-------for High Temp Smooth Plate {endif} {if curr_bed_type==&#34;Cool Plate/PLA Plate&#34;} G29.1 Z{-0.01} ; &lt;-------for Cool Plate {endif} {if curr_bed_type==&#34;Engineering Plate&#34;} G29.1 Z{-0.02} ; &lt;-------for Engineering Plate {endif}  <h3>❤ Dont forget to Like and post your results! ❤</h3>&nbsp;UPDATE: By request, I&#39;ve added the Z-disc “collectors cup” save those smooth disc&#39;s like trophy swatches.&nbsp;

THE TEST DISC | Z-Offset Calibration Disc

Test

NinjaDuck Prints

Designed with a 0.3mm clearance. This model will bridge a 27mm distance towards the end of the print, the P1P default settings have no problems with this.&nbsp;<h4>Warning</h4>Do not press auto-arrange in your slicer otherwise this print will not work. The part is separated into 3 different objects to make it easier for AMS or other multi-colour printers. If you print directly from the Bambu Handy phone app and increase the number of copies, the app will auto-arrange the parts.&nbsp;Slicing<ul><li>0.16mm Layer Height</li><li>3 Walls instead of infill</li><li>No supports</li><li>No brim</li></ul>

Fidget Gears - Print in Place

Fidget/Nifty

brody.bolanos

Bambu Lab P1 / X1 Series Dual Aux Fan (4/10/2023)Designed a second aux fan for Bambu Lab printers. I have another modular version of this that also uses an optional bentobox for those printing enclosed <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23658" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23658</a> . Big thanks to @Spezo_501511 for helping with X1 / X1C testing. &nbsp;Contents<ul><li>Updates</li><li>Files</li><li>Additional Parts</li><li>Printing Information</li><li>Assembly</li><li>Wiring Options</li></ul><h4>The X1 and P1 Version are different! This is to account for the Lidar clearance.</h4>&nbsp;This will only fit on the right side of the printer! You cannot mirror to work on the left, where the original fan goes, as the frame rails are are different heights ( among other things). <h4>Update 7/28/23 </h4><ol><li>Finished the design for the upgraded fan ducts that provide airflow to the back, middle, and front of the build plate<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23661" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23661</a> </li><li>Model only works with the modular version <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23658" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23658</a> </li></ol></li></ol><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_iw9bglzlhbx9.png"></figure><h4>Update 7/25/23 </h4>Added multiple wiring instructions.<ol><li>Using fan_1 port to power the aux. Control via Bambu Studios</li><li>Using fan_1 port to power the aux. Control via Gcode.</li><li>Keeping the fan_1 port open for the chamber temp fan, wiring 2nd aux to the 1st aux fan. Control via normal way.</li></ol><blockquote><h3>Files</h3></blockquote>Main Files<ol><li>P1 Fan Top 1A</li><li>Fan Casing 2A</li><li>Fan Back Plate 3A</li><li>Fan Stand 4A</li><li>X1 Fan Top 5A</li></ol>Print File<ol><li>P1 Print File</li><li>X1 Print File</li></ol><blockquote><h3>Additional Parts </h3></blockquote><ol><li>Aux fan <ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/auxiliary-part-cooling-fan-x1-series-and-p1p" rel="nofollow noopener">https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/auxiliary-part-cooling-fan-x1-series-and-p1p</a></li></ol></li><li>Qty 2 : M3*6</li></ol><blockquote><h3>Print Orientation</h3></blockquote><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_b9yhyvpqcjmm.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_ho7x0sof69yf.png"></figure><blockquote><h3>Print Settings</h3></blockquote>DO NOT USE PLA, IT WILL BREAK. Please use PETG, ASA, PLA+ , etc. I used Polylite Pro PLA+Set your K calibration and adjust setting based on your filament Quality<ul><li>Please see build plate file. </li></ul>Support <ul><li>Please see build plate file. </li></ul>Other<ul><li>Bed adhesion - use brim if you're having adhesion issues, its already configured in the print file so please go over the settings first. </li></ul>* To remove the support from the fan top , I just used pliers and pulled the support out which was pretty easy. Sometimes some of the support stuck but it was easy to clean up with a small knife. The supports on the 2 larger tabs on the fan casing should looked at after the supports are removed, just make sure it's clean on the bottom side since these tabs are what hold it tight against the fan stand. Lastly, be careful when removing the supports on the front of the fan casing, loosen and remove the main vertical support then it's easier to remove the supports around the 4 rectangular tabs. &nbsp;<blockquote><h3>Assembly</h3></blockquote><ul><li>Remove the fan from casing, remove the sticker over the wiring and redirect the wiring as shown below. Don't put the fan in the printed case yet. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_00b6jvjpl6j6.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Attached the fan top to the casing, make sure are for tabs are locked in and the front left and back walls are flush between the top and case.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_vzwogbysvnt9.png"></figure><ul><li>Place the fan into the new casing, make sure the fan is centered by using the alignment poles</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_pcd1q9za6kvc.png"></figure><ul><li>Attach the back plate using re-using the 3 screws that originally held the fan into the casing. Slide the back plate on up/left, making sure to keep the wiring in the channel and then slotting the top two little tabs on the back plate into the spots on the back of the fan top. Tighten the screws 90% of the way making sure the backplate can still move a little.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_x3ifqyrdk785.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Slide the upper assembly onto the fan stand, same way as the OEM aux fan and use the 2 longer screws that come with the aux fan to tighten the case against the stand. Then make sure the back plate is squared up and tighten the 3 screws the remainder of the way.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_6ugb55penu0i.png"></figure>MOVE THE BUILD PLATE ALL THE WAY DOWN FOR THE NEXT STEPS<ul><li>The stand connects to the floor via lining up the L shape cutout with the L shape extrusion on the floor. There is also a caution sticker and under that sticker is a hole that we will use to screw the stand to the floor. I re-used 1 of the 2 shorter screws that came with the aux fan. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_fr2gp2pgvy4l.png"></figure><ul><li>Next tilt the fan into place. The re protrusions on the fan top should “almost” line up with the 2 holes in the frame. They are offset a little. Then use 2 M3*6 screws to hold it in place. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_4cn7mtus70s1.png"></figure><blockquote><h3>Wiring Options (Option 3 is the best and requires no modification to existing aux fan wires)</h3></blockquote><h3>Option 1- Using the fan_1 port ( where the chamber fan would connect) and Bambu Studios to control the fan. </h3><ul><li>Follow the instructions to remove the back plate to plug in the aux fan. The fan plugs into Fan 1 while the original aux fan is plugged into Fan2</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_ore6ux14cwdg.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Cable manage the wiring </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_fdevnkp5c5cq.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_u21lpodg6f43.png"></figure><h4>Bambu Studio</h4>So I know you can change the Gcode to make it work with the fan which is “M106 P3 S0 ; turn off chamber fan” (option 2 below) but you can also change the config to make it show up in Bambu Studio.<ul><li>For me on PC it's under C:\Program Files\Bambu Studio\resources . Open the Config file with an application like Notepad++ <a target="_blank" href="https://notepad-plus-plus.org/downloads/v8.5.1/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://notepad-plus-plus.org/downloads/v8.5.1/</a></li><li>Under "FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : false," change it to true ""FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : true," . Notepadd++ will ask to change this under administrator, click yes and save the file. </li></ul>{ "printers": [ { "display_name": "Bambu Lab P1P", "func": { "FUNC_CHAMBER_TEMP": true, "FUNC_FIRSTLAYER_INSPECT": false, "FUNC_AI_MONITORING": false, "FUNC_BUILDPLATE_MARKER_DETECT": false, "FUNC_FLOW_CALIBRATION": false, "FUNC_MONITORING": false, "FUNC_MEDIA_FILE": false, "FUNC_REMOTE_TUNNEL": false, "FUNC_LOCAL_TUNNEL": true, "FUNC_VIRTUAL_CAMERA" : false, "FUNC_PRINT_WITHOUT_SD": false, "FUNC_ALTER_RESOLUTION": false, "FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : false, "FUNC_EXTRUSION_CALI": true, "FUNC_PRINT_ALL" : false<ul><li>Re-open Studio and on the device screen you'll now see the chamber fan which is what we'll use to control the 2nd aux fan. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_9qt7nk424v0z.png"></figure><h3>Option 2 - Using the fan_1 port ( where the chamber fan would connect) and Gcode to control the fan. </h3><ul><li>Same wiring as above but instead of changing the config file for Studios we change the gcode. This was suggested from @bjws_297864:<ul><li>Remove the filament start code that modifies the chamber fan and added this to the end of the printer start gcode: ;========turn on chamber fan to filter VOCs ============= {if filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ABS" || filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ASA" } M106 P3 S50 ; set chamber fan to 20% {endif}</li></ul></li></ul><h3>Option 3 - Wire the 2nd aux fan to the original aux fan. This way both fans are controlled as one without needing to change any code. This is how I have mine set up. </h3>What's required:<ol><li>JST MX 1.25 Connectors<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B3MSD154/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B3MSD154/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a> </li></ol></li><li>Minimal soldering skill</li></ol><h4>Wiring Diagram </h4>Bambu wiring = Dark grey (GND) , Black (+), light grey ( tach) , white (pwm)<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td> </td><td>Bambu </td><td>JST MX 1.25</td></tr><tr><td>+</td><td>Black</td><td>Red</td></tr><tr><td>-</td><td>Dark Grey</td><td>Black</td></tr><tr><td>Tach</td><td>Light Grey</td><td>Yellow</td></tr><tr><td>PWM</td><td>White</td><td>White</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>As pointed out by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MozzieT_1023044" rel="nofollow noopener">@MozzieT_1023044</a> if you're wiring the 2nd fan into the existing one, it's probably best to only connect the PWM wire and not the Tach wire. The speed readout may get a bit confused as to the actual fan speed if the two fans pulses don't align for whatever reason. I still have my 2nd tach wire connected without any issues but I do plan on disconnecting it next time I take my panel off. -9/8/2023<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_wphpsltf2eu1.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_feyp6blhm6e0.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Behind the power panel, there are two screws under -V and +V that aren't being used. I just wrapped the wire around these screws and tightened down. You should use a terminal ring but I didn't. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_ld0ubfusfnyl.jpg"></figure>And finally how it all looks wired up:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/205538/2023-09-27_li2yzigbarow.jpg"></figure>That's all! &nbsp;If you like my designs and want to say thanks, you can buy me a coffee and help fund the filaments I need for prototyping. A donation of any amount to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/brodyB" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy Me a Coffee</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/brodyb10?country.x=US&locale.x=en_US" rel="nofollow noopener">PayPal</a> would be greatly appreciated!&nbsp;As always, given different printing environments, filaments, etc., prints may not work perfectly for everyone. If you are having issues please message or comment and I will try my best to resolve the issue.