Basti85

<h2>For the model description please scroll down (this is just an update announcement which has no effects to the base model)</h2><h2>It's done :) You can find the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/93037#profileId-99461" rel="nofollow noopener">DryBuddy (here)</a>.</h2><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:47.32%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-14_330b1f59c11ea.png"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>You can find the (optional) AMS upgrade alias “the MOOSER” here:</h2><p style="text-align:center;"><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/86200#profileId-92087" rel="nofollow noopener"><strong><u>→ click me ←</u></strong></a></p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/86200#profileId-92087" rel="nofollow noopener"><strong><u><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-10_af857a32d1a03.png"></u></strong></a></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If you already <strong>completed printing</strong> the whole raiser you just need to reprint two smaller parts (plate 2 - the outside side parts will be replaced by the mod).</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If you <strong>plan to print</strong> the raiser and also want to have the upgrade you can just start printing and skip</p><ul><li>print plate <strong>2</strong> for the <strong>ultimate </strong>raiser</li><li>print plate <strong>3</strong> for the <strong>lite </strong>versions</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Also THX <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1021137324" rel="nofollow noopener">Alex_1</a> for contributing an alternative for the TPU parts of my model → the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/93145#profileId-99573" rel="nofollow noopener">anti-glare screen</a> which suites to all the model types (Ultimate / Lite HG / Lite / Mini).</h2><p>The model can also be used with the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/93037#profileId-99461" rel="nofollow noopener">DryBuddy (here)</a>.</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:54.25%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-14_baed17a1c88e3.webp"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:52.59%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-16_560e77fcbdd33.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>You can also find other addons for my raisers in the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/88485#profileId-94738" rel="nofollow noopener">upgrade project</a>.</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><p>____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>DESCRIPTION STARTS HERE</h2><p>____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>OK - just another raiser is a little bit played down.. I designed for almost two days how I could create a raiser (like the one which is currently the top download here) which is easily printable (the other is not). and here it is :)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>there are five versions - whether which version you choose - you need NO AMS to print it (despite having more than one colour):</p><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>the ultimate one with the xtouch display and the hygrometer hole → height is 9.7cm (when in place)</li><li>the lite one with the hygrometer hole → height is 7.3cm (when in place)</li><li>the lite one → height is 7.3cm (when in place)</li><li>the mini → height is 2.5cm (when in place). you can use this also as an adapter for the raiser lite if you want to use the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/93037#profileId-99461" rel="nofollow noopener">DryBuddy</a>.</li><li>the lite one with the hygrometer hole but no ventilation slots (as requested from <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3132260252" rel="nofollow noopener">user_3132260252</a> → height is 7.3cm (when in place)</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><p><u>T</u>he hygrometer hole has a diameter of 42.5mm. It should handle “the standard” hygrometer out there which is used in other projects.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The Ultimate/Lite HG/Lite version share the ventilation system and an area (all four models) for a LED light-stripe (-12mm, may even more because it's covered) which is angled with 45 degrees to the print plate. I used soldered LEDs before and still have to test whether you can mount a complete stripe (but I designed more space in the corners for just turning them round) without cutting it.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><u>EDIT:</u> Yep - mounting a complete WS2812b stripe without cutting it is possible. Even the edges can be handled smoothly (but at least one LED will not be angled with 45 degrees).</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Why 45 degrees?! ..that you do not look directly into the light ;) there is also a cover on the top (print this with tpu) which prevents seeing anything from the stripe / the light. You can also use Alex_1's <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/93145#profileId-99573" rel="nofollow noopener">shield </a>mentioned at the top. The shield almost completely hides the LEDs.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I will add other features from time to time. there are already some out there (just visit my model-site). If you need anything else just ask me for a mod and I will do it.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I will may fork the xtouch sources and add some features (light control / brightness / colours / …) there → so even when you own a x1c you can use the ultimate version with the xtouch display.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Here are some steps regarding the assembly (it's pretty easy). If you want to get an overview which parts belongs to which position → just open BambuStudio and use the “puzzle” icon in combination with the explosion view:</p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-17_5e277e8d7a016.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-17_49ebf1d8b2109.png"></figure><h2> </h2><h2>Slider-Assembly:</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-02_7563c81d74f7b.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-02_2b7204dac8f6a.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-02_2026293e4687b.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-02_75f2a3dbbb04a.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-02_2af90546bd71f.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-02_5e3f8a4bbf5e8.gif"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>LED Mount:</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-02_5ee06723e2208.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-03_8babaffb68ec2.jpg"></figure><p>(the small board here on the right is not neccessary. I'm just using the regular light-energy-source. If you have questions regarding this just message me. the advantage is that I can controll the light directly with the bambu software & display)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Lid Covering:</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/499631/2023-12-03_1b03bf883e901.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>You should use tape for fixing the cable</strong></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>(my nozzle is currently making some troubles. don't use the hardened steel one when you print it. that's why I'm having these artefacts in the print :( have a look at the display-front then you know what I mean :P)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>BR & happy printing,</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>B@sti :)</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

(just another) Raiser (Ultimate/Lite HG/Lite/Mini)  - ventilation slots, LEDs & other features

MyPrinterAddons

<p>Hi guys,</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>..finally here it is → my BIG Spiral Lamp V2 [WLED] :)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I heard your voices and created the lamp from scratch in order to make a lot of things easier. I also added a video tutorial howto assemble the lamp. everything is in realtime and you will see how easy it is. the assembly will not take longer than 5 minutes!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Features:</h3><ul><li>full support of <strong>WLED</strong></li><li><strong>easy print</strong> with less filament compared to the previous version</li><li>really <strong>easy assembly</strong>!</li><li>the <strong>WOW </strong>effect :)</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>You need some hardware:</h3><ul><li>1.5m ws2812b LEDs (3x30 LEDs or 3x50cm stripes)<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BTVBTHQ5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BTVBTHQ5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li></ul></li><li>2x3 male, 3x3 female wires for soldering. I used these jumper wires: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01EV70C78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01EV70C78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a></li><li>1 x ESP32-C3 for WLED → I used this one: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CPY6LMSJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CPY6LMSJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li>solder skills</li></ul><h2><strong><u>If you want to use another board contact me and send me the size(s). I will try to also create a fitting lid for your board! Currently the profile contains a “standard” size for ESP32 mini boards with 35mmx28mm (length/width).</u></strong></h2><h3> </h3><h3>How to print:</h3><p>First of all please <strong>READ </strong>the <strong>whole instructions</strong>!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>As I wanted to make the assembly as easy as possible I decided to design a guided rail for the stripes. Everything matches perfectly to each other especially the diffusors. BUT - you really have to make sure to use <strong>CALIBRATED (or BAMBU-), DRYED FILAMENT</strong>! I will really be pissed when someone is giving a bad vote due to the fact he was unable to READ! ..and believe me - this happens a lot and is really frustrating.. The printer is doing it's job pretty well but this does not exclude any work / maintainment!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Here are some rules / hints to get a perfect result:</p><ol><li>USE A <strong>CLEAN </strong>PRINT BED!</li><li>USE <strong>CALIBRATED OR BAMBU </strong>FILAMENT!</li><li>USE <strong>DRY </strong>FILAMENT!</li><li>USE <strong>NORMAL </strong>SPEED!</li><li><strong>REMOVE </strong>ALL SUPPORTS <strong>CAREFULLY</strong></li><li>MAKE SURE TO <strong>REMOVE ALL SUPPORTS </strong>FROM THE DIFFUSORS ESPECIALLY THE <strong>BRIM</strong></li></ol><p>When you don't want to use my print profile pay attention to the following points:</p><ul><li>use NO infill for the diffusors</li><li>use max. 2 walls for the diffusors as with more walls less light will come through</li><li>you need stabilization for printing the diffusors & the two main lamp parts → NO supports WON'T work! (I already tried that with my big spiral lamp V1 and always failed due to the height and small movements caused by the mass inertia). tree supports work best.</li><li>the lid surfaces should be printed in a circular way. so ensure to choose a propper setting for the bottom & top layer!</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>The filament I used:</h3><ul><li><strong>transparent eSun</strong> filament for the diffusors. You can also use the <strong>Bambu PETG Basic profile</strong> and have no issues! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07FXVGYKL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07FXVGYKL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li><strong>Bambu black</strong>:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=43992833261787" rel="nofollow noopener">https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=43992833261787</a></li></ul></li><li><strong>Giantarm gold silk</strong> as I ran out of bambu gold silk :P. You can also use the <strong>Bambu PLA silk profile</strong> and have no issues!<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07RZRJNJ7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07RZRJNJ7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1</a></li></ul></li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>How to assemble:</h2><h3>Preparations:</h3><ul><li>Cut the LEDs (3 stripes)<ul><li>If you are using the 60LEDs per meter stripe then count 30 LEDs and then cut it. Insert the stripe and test whether the lenght matches (it should - you can also cut after checking ;))</li><li>If you are not using the 60LEDs per meter stripe measure the length → just insert the stripe into the lamp. The leds should end within the lamps body on both sides this way (you just see a small edge of the stripe):</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:358.172px;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/492666/2024-01-26_aaf4660e5154c.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Cut the cables in the half, strip the insulation and solder <strong>ONLY the females to the inputs (see the arrows on the stripe!)</strong>:<ul><li>always use the male plug for the output and the females for the input</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:54.08%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/492666/2024-02-01_bb8490ea4ece6.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Flash the ESP32C3 board like described <a target="_blank" href="https://kno.wled.ge/basics/install-wled-flasher" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>:<ul><li>Download the <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/srg74/WLED-wemos-shield/tree/master/resources/Firmware/WLED_%20ESP_Flasher" rel="nofollow noopener">flasher software</a></li><li>Download the <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/releases/download/v0.14.1/WLED_0.14.1_ESP32-C3.bin" rel="nofollow noopener">binary</a> (this is the one fore ESP32C3 - if you use a different board then you have to select another bin)</li><li>Flash how it is <a target="_blank" href="https://kno.wled.ge/basics/install-wled-flasher" rel="nofollow noopener">described</a></li></ul></li><li>May already configure WLED starting at 3. from <a target="_blank" href="https://kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> (if you have any issues just ask here and I will help you guiding through)</li></ul><h2>Now watch the assembly video:</h2><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/ceD4M16myqs?si=BCj6RpDOADKQh1TV"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ceD4M16myqs" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Now the lamp is assembled. Push / Pull the stripes from the two sides this way and solder the males:</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/492666/2024-02-01_5d4d2a369e61a.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/492666/2024-02-01_776b62f856b53.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Push the stripes back (never pull the cables) and connect everything. Start from the side with the two female stripes. Choose the one you will use as input from the board. Follow with your eyes to the other side. Connect the males at this side with the only females. Follow the female stripe back to the other side. Connect the males with the females of the remaining stripe (NOT the one which is the board input).</h2><h2>Now connect your board. The PIN setting is the following way:</h2><ul><li>green is LED+ → it connects to 5V</li><li>grey is LED- → it connects to ground</li><li>white is DATA → it connects to GPIO2</li></ul><h4><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/492666/2024-01-26_700da7886dffe.jpg"></h4><h2>Power the board. When your solder-points are ok the first 30 LEDs of the lamp should shine orange. That is the default setting in WLED to check whether everything works. If you have already configured WLED then all 90LEDs should shine (if not either your solder-points are not ok or you connected the wrong stripes :P).</h2><h2>You are done :) Enjoy your new lamp and leave a <u>like</u> :) (don't forget to assemble the lids :P)</h2><p>BR,</p><p>B@sti</p>

BIG Spiral Lamp V2 [WLED]

MyLamps

<h2>Also visit <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/166549#profileId-182942" rel="nofollow noopener">BIG Spiral Lamp V2 [WLED]</a></h2><ul><li>less filament</li><li>reduced printtime</li><li>easier assembly</li><li>WLED</li><li>video tutorial</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:22.98%;"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/166549#profileId-182942" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-02-02_7e308c88fa001.jpg"></a></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h2><strong>You can find the battery upgrade (V1 only!) </strong><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/133588#profileId-144917" rel="nofollow noopener"><strong>here</strong></a></h2><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:39.44%;"><a href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/133588#profileId-144917" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-10_625e21d2a88a4.png"></a></figure><h2>Description:</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Hi guys,</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>finally → it's done :)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:48.07%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_f98dfa77bda96.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_e0e3941c1b7fd.gif"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>You need some hardware:</h3><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>1x USB-C plug board with charger capability (if you want to use the battery addon skip that part as I replaced it. see the other project for more details)<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07XG5F9T3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07XG5F9T3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a></li></ul></li><li>1x Arduino Mini<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/AZDelivery-PRO-MINI-ATmega328-16MHz/dp/B07RY894D5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=arduino%2Bmini&qid=1704537139&sr=8-3&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/AZDelivery-PRO-MINI-ATmega328-16MHz/dp/B07RY894D5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=arduino%2Bmini&qid=1704537139&sr=8-3&th=1</a></li></ul></li><li>Arduino flasher:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01N9RZK6I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01N9RZK6I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1</a></li></ul></li><li>1.5m ws2812b LEDs (3x30 LEDs or 3x50cm stripes)<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BTVBTHQ5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BTVBTHQ5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li></ul></li><li>Jumper Cables<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01EV70C78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01EV70C78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a></li></ul></li></ul><h3>The filament I used:</h3><ul><li>Bambu black:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=43992833261787" rel="nofollow noopener">https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=43992833261787</a></li></ul></li><li>Bambu gold:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-silk?variant=46636020531548" rel="nofollow noopener">https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-silk?variant=46636020531548</a></li></ul></li><li>Bambu white:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=43992833229019" rel="nofollow noopener">https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=43992833229019</a></li></ul></li><li>Initially I wanted to print the diffusors with transparent PETG. I used an older spool. It worked like a charm but I got out of filament as I had some failed prints (you should really use my print profile as otherwise your prints might fail! These profiles work 100%)</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Instructions:</h2><h3>Preparations:</h3><ul><li>Print everything with 100% speed. Do NOT use other modes than normal mode!</li><li>Cut the LEDs (3 stripes)<ul><li>If you are not using the 60LEDs per meter stripe measure the length → just insert the stripe into the lamp. The leds should end within the lamps body on both sides this way (you just see a small edge of the stripe):</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:33.91%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_80a509040244c.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Flash the Arduino:<ul><li>Count the overall LEDs</li><li>Edit my source code (see documentation → download, remove “.txt” and open in the Arduino IDE) with that number</li><li>Flash it (see the end of the description → <strong><u>ATTENTION:</u> on Windows 11 do NOT use ArduinoIDE 2.X → there seems to be a problem with the flasher. Use the old ArduinoIDE 1.X instead!!</strong>)</li></ul></li><li>Cut the cables in the half, strip the insulation and solder everything (<strong>if you want to use the battery mod flash the code from the other project as you would need to unsolder two cables in order to connect the flasher again</strong>):<ul><li>Stripes → 3 * 3 Cables → use the male plug for the output and the females for the input (see flow)</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75.38%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_bbd3dd1e50506.jpg"></figure><ul><li>USB-C → 2 Cables → use the male plugs for the output</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:74.81%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_a687aaf66c8a2.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Arduino → 5 Cables → use 2 females for AC and 3 males for power out & data lane for the stripes</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:74.26%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_418bb98506736.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>NOW CONNECT EVERYTHING AND CHECK WHETHER YOUR SOLDER-POINTS ARE OK!</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Assembly:</h3><p>Now just follow my pictures. I will add text to the passages where you need extra information.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_905f5905a2cb2.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Insert the stripes to the bottom of the lamp (where the boards are places). Start with the first stripe. It needs the female plugs at the lamps bottom. Then insert the second stripe the other way round. Then insert the third stripe (the same way as the first one).</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_44c803be8b4be.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Insert the small diffusor. You may need to push the LEDs a bit. Be careful to not move the hole stripe! It should never change its position on the bottom. Pay attention to this the whole time!</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_27244b9747792.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_f75ffe8bf1ed3.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_fd53ed0a00255.jpg"></figure><h2> </h2><h2>Now add the big duffusors.</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_bfcb68971c99b.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_a45749ef3b0cd.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Lay the top of the lamp next to the assembled bottom and insert the stripes.</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_626ffeab07a34.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Add the remaining small diffusors.</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_4b37851eac4a9.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Move the small diffusors and the stripes step by step until you can also insert the big diffusors.</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_9383d2fea99a6.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Move the stripe, big & small diffusor step by step. Pay attention that the stripe only moves within the top. It should never change it's position on the bottom part!</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_6190b4209f917.gif"></figure><h2>Pay attention to the cables and move them trough the holes as soon as you reach them.</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_afc909a688698.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_5e8d0efc9c987.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Finally you are done with the assembly :)</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_f59e9f0c48b89.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Now connect all the cables (follow the LEDs in the spiral if you are confused). Plug the USB-C to the power and check whether everything is still working. Glue the boards if necessary. You may also have to tape the cables. Then add the lids.</h2><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>You are done and now own a f*cking cool spiral lamp :)</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-06_72c4dbcc250a2.jpg"></figure><h4>(by the way.. can you guess the movie ;))</h4><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Have fun with it!</p><p>BR,</p><p>B@sti</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Postscript - How to flash the Arduino</h2><p>First of all you need to download the IDE. DO NOT USE THE 2.X Version as there seems to be a problem with the flasher (this once cost me a weekend for nothing..). You can download the IDE here → <a target="_blank" href="https://downloads.arduino.cc/arduino-1.8.19-windows.zip" rel="nofollow noopener">Legacy IDE (1.8.X) - Windows as ZIP</a>. If you have another OS than Windows then just navigate to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/software" rel="nofollow noopener">this page</a>, scroll to Legacy IDE and choose the right package.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>Extract / Install the software</li><li>Open the Software</li><li>Install the Neopixel library → Sketch → Include Library → Manage Libraries → search for Adafruit NeoPixel (by the times of writing the Version is 1.12.0) → Install</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:43.2%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-13_f0b7feb0a436c.png"></figure><ul><li>Download my INO-File from the documentation. Delete the .txt ending and the auto added UUID. The file should end with *.ino and should be in a folder with the same name (without the INO-ending)</li><li>Open the file with the IDE</li><li>Count the amount of LEDs and change the define pictured below</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-13_c6462dfdb18e6.png"></figure><ul><li>Connect your flasher</li><li>Connect the board to the flasher</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:25.4%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-13_3067d9a01c11.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Install the boards via → Tools → Board → Boards Manager → Search for Arduino AVR Board and install (by the times of writing the Version is 1.8.6)</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:49.11%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-13_d948b53f589f8.png"></figure><ul><li>Select the right board after installation → Tools → Board → Arduino AVR Boards → Arduino Pro or Pro Mini</li><li>Select the right processor → Tools → Processor ATmega328P (5V, 16MHz)</li><li>Select the right Port → Tools → Port → select the available COM port. If there is no COM port available may try re-plugging the flasher. If there is still no COM port you might have to install the driver (look at the site where you bought the flasher → there should be something mentioned)</li><li>Everything should look like this (except the COM port - this can be something different on your machine)</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/487344/2024-01-13_cb306245ae1a4.png"></figure><ul><li>Compile & Upload via Sketch → Upload (compiles automatically) or click the Upload button in the tool box (the second one)</li><li>You are done :) Connect the board and check whether the LEDs are shining</li></ul>

Glowing Spiral Lamp

my portable glowing spiral lamp

chameko小廢物電波塔

<blockquote><p style="text-align:center;"><span style="background-color:hsl(60,75%,60%);">12/06 After many tests, I successfully found out the cause of the assembly problems reported by some users, and modified the side panel file "</span><span style="background-color:hsl(60,75%,60%);color:hsl(0,75%,60%);">AMS Dry Box-SW_v2</span><span style="background-color:hsl(60,75%,60%);">".</span></p><p style="text-align:center;"><span style="color:rgb(230,77,77);font-size:16px;">NOTE!I </span><span style="color:hsl(210,75%,60%);font-size:16px;">Designed this model not only for ams, I also used it in the vacuum bag that holds the filament, so I needed tight tolerances to make the box strong enough.</span><br><span style="color:hsl(210,75%,60%);font-size:16px;">The tolerance is </span><span style="color:hsl(0,75%,60%);font-size:16px;">0.3mm</span><span style="color:hsl(210,75%,60%);font-size:16px;">, please be sure to confirm before printing this model.</span></p></blockquote><p>Open the side lid and pour about 60g of silica.</p><p><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_92a6870d48198.jpeg"></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>There is a buckle design on the top, please make sure it is buckled correctly when installing.</p><p><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_2f71bc9cf33e9.png"></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The front and back of the V2 version have relaxed tolerances in most areas, making it easier to install.<br>I kept the last small area because without this part, you might get the box and slide it open like in the second picture, resulting in a mess.</p><p>Please be careful not to install it in the wrong direction when installing.</p><p><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_fcf2db2bab532.jpg"></p><p><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_210d78c4699ec.jpeg"></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If you have trouble assembling them, try using a heavy object to knock them into the correct position.</p><p><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_e0f13f6121362.jpeg"></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>As for why I used this complex design, it was because I considered that he had to withstand several kilograms of impact from the filament, so I wanted to distribute the force as equally as possible to each part.</p><p><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_90a605e9c843e.png"></p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><blockquote><p style="text-align:center;"><span style="color:hsl(240,75%,60%);">Also I have a beautiful model related to AMS! Don’t miss it!</span></p></blockquote><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:56.75%;"><a href="https://makerworld.com/zh/models/99476#profileId-106044" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-23_3d850a0169288.jpg"></a></figure><p>Do you always find the AMS feeder difficult to press? Are the models on the Internet very difficult to install? I have improved and carefully designed this model. Please be sure to try it!(click on the image to go to the page!)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><blockquote><p style="text-align:center;">----------中文解說----------</p></blockquote><p>打開側蓋後約可倒入60g的乾燥劑.<br>上方具有卡扣設計,安裝時請確認有正確的扣上.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>V2版本的正面與背面放開了大部分區域的公差,使其較容易安裝.<br>我保留了最後一小區域,因為沒有這個部分的話,你可能再拿取盒子時像第二張圖一樣滑開,導致一團糟.<br>安裝時請注意不要裝錯方向.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>如果你在組裝上遇到了困難,可以嘗試使用重物敲擊他們使其安裝至正確的位置.<br>至於為什麼使用這種複雜的設計,是因為我考慮到他必須承受數公斤來自線材的撞擊,因此我想盡可能地讓力量平均分攤到每個部分.</p>

AMS Silica Gel Box[V2]

P1S Improvement

<p>As my printer is portable since my wheel feet upgrade (see my other models) I'm using different places for printing. For some locations the AC cable was too short so I switched it with the one from my pc (3 meter cable). For clearing away the cable I designed this cable roller which can be installed on the back of your printer. Whenever I do not need the printer or move it from one location to the other I can wrap the cable and it's no more in the way..</p>

MyPrinterAddons

MyLamps

my portable glowing spiral lamp

P1S Improvement

My Moveable Printer