Andrew Rapach

Jonas

Knobs and Wing Nuts for M5, M6, M8, M10 and M12 Nuts.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/805523/2024-04-02_5e8cce18cafc5.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/805523/2024-04-02_7d2510faf102e.jpg">

Nuts Knobs/Wing Nuts M5-M12

Tools

dfreshkremer

My NEW model of the American flag. Now printed flat to save filament/time, and to increase quality. Printed in PLA<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000499357/design/2024-06-17_e1ea5f0503579.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;It comes with a 2-part mold that only needs to be printed once, and can be used on multiple flags. I&#39;m going to try to make my flags more of a universal size so all of them will fit into this mold. The mold is not part of the Print Profile, but I have provided the STL so you can download/print.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000499357/design/2024-06-17_00d486996b8a28.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Place the flag in the oven at 180-185 degrees Fahrenheit until soft and pliable (5-7 minutes).<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000499357/design/2024-06-17_85f5774eb4ace8.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Take the flag out of the oven and place it in the base mold with the lip. Place the top edge of the flag against the lip to keep it square.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000499357/design/2024-06-17_a70b62cad3e3e8.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Gently shape it by hand, and then press down with the top part of the mold until cooled down enough to keep it&#39;s shape.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000499357/design/2024-06-17_108e4fc17224a.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;This flag is printed with a special (white) “support layer” in the middle to hold everything together. Without this layer, the stripes and star section would break away from each other after it&#39;s done printed. It would be best for you to load the filament colors the same way I have them in the Print Profile, so you don&#39;t have mess with recoloring it. Please do NOT paint this model manually. Instead, go into objects and choose the color for each “body” of the flag. Make sure the support layer is white, so it doesnt bleed through the surface. The model prints solid (5 bottom layers and 5 top layers). I&#39;m not sure how well an infill will bend and mold, and hold the flag together.  I also have “ironing” turned on to make the top surface better.  This also adds some time to the print, so if you don&#39;t need it, feel free to shut that off. &nbsp;If you&#39;d like a merchant agreement or selling-rights, please message me! Or if you just want to support my work, you can “buy me a coffee.&#34; My venmo is @dfreshkremer (0818) or my Paypal is <a href="mailto:douglasakremer@yahoo.com" rel="nofollow">douglasakremer@yahoo.com</a>&nbsp;If you have any questions before printing, let me know! Thanks

The American Flag V2.0

Flags

tlavedas

I used HueForge Lithophane Blending Mode and an AI created image to make this “stained glass&#34; Hummingbird print in TWO parts. The first part has just the blues and black of the Hummingbird foreground. The second part blanks out the foreground and blue parts of the hummingbird and provides the reds and yellows for the background. Both parts have very thin base layers, so special care is needed to remove them from the build plate. It is probably best to cool them completely before trying.&nbsp;When joining the two parts be sparing with the adhesive, especially in the lighter parts. The adhesive will change the colors if it is not behind the darkest parts. If spread very thin and uniformly, it should not show too much.&nbsp;Part 1:Project: Hummingbird_Stained_Glass_Part_1.hfp Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.04mm with a base layer of 0.16mmThe Model is 150x150mm in size You may print at higher layer heights below the Min Depth of 0.16mm The Max Depth is 1.6mm and the Actual Depth is 1.6mmFilaments Used: PLA PolyLite Natural Transmission Distance: 21 PLA PolyLite Aqua Blue Transmission Distance: 3.5 PLA Overture Blue Transmission Distance: 4.2 PLA PolyLite Black Transmission Distance: 0.3 This print uses 4 unique filamentsSwap Instructions: Start with Natural At layer #2 (0.2mm) swap to Aqua Blue At layer #9 (0.48mm) swap to Blue At layer #24 (1.08mm) swap to Black for the rest.&nbsp;Part 2:Project: Hummingbird_Stained_Glass_Part_2_4_color.hfp Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.04mm with a base layer of 0.16mmThe Model is 150x150mm in size You may print at higher layer heights below the Min Depth of 0.16mm The Max Depth is 1.7mm and the Actual Depth is 1.7mmFilaments Used: PLA PolyLite Natural Transmission Distance: 21 PLA PolyLite Lemon Yellow Transmission Distance: 6 PLA Overture Red Transmission Distance: 4.8 PLA PolyTerra Army Red Transmission Distance: 0.3 This print uses 4 unique filamentsSwap Instructions: Start with Natural At layer #2 (0.2mm) swap to Lemon Yellow At layer #14 (0.68mm) swap to Red At layer #33 (1.44mm) swap to Army Red for the rest. If substituting filaments, pick ones with the closest TD values. Use a Natural white, if possible. Otherwise, pick the one with a TD &gt; 10 to minimize the color change it will cause. The second red, PolyTerra Army Red, was chosen to accent the red throat on the bird. It has a very low TD value. If substituted, use one with a TD less that 2, if possible.&nbsp;There is a small loop on the top of Part 1 to help with hanging the model. Use a thin thread or fine wire.

HueForge Stained Glass Hummingbird

Stained Glass

I needed something to discourage bird hits to a kitchen window. I used HueForge Lithophane Blending Mode and an AI created image to make this “stained glass&#34; Cardinal print in TWO parts. The first part has just the reds and black of the cardinal foreground. The second part blanks out the cardinal and provides the greens for the background. Both parts have very thin base layers, so special care is needed to remove them from the print bed. It is probably best to cool them completely before trying.&nbsp;When joining the two parts be sparing with the adhesive, especially in the lighter green parts. The adhesive will change the colors if it is not behind the black or red parts. I just used some around the black parts and behind the bird to keep the glue from showing. If spread thin and uniformly, it should not show too much.&nbsp;Part 1 (red, black):Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.04mm with a base layer of 0.16mmThe Model is 200x200mm in size You may print at higher layer heights below the Min Depth of 0.16mm The Max Depth is 2mm and the Actual Depth is 1.4mmFilaments Used: PLA PolyLite Natural Transmission Distance: 21 PLA Overture Red Transmission Distance: 4.8 PLA Overture Black Transmission Distance: 0.5 This print uses 3 unique filamentsSwap Instructions: Start with Natural At layer #2 (0.2mm) swap to Red At layer #28 (1.24mm) swap to Black for the rest. Part 2 (green):Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.04mm with a base layer of 0.16mmThe Model is 200x200mm in size You may print at higher layer heights below the Min Depth of 0.16mm The Max Depth is 2.2mm and the Actual Depth is 1.3mmFilaments Used: PLA PolyLite Natural Transmission Distance: 21 PLA HueForge (Chrominal) Forest Green Transmission Distance: 3.9 This print uses 2 unique filamentsSwap Instructions: Start with Natural At layer #2 (0.2mm) swap to Forest Green for the rest. If substituting filaments, pick ones with the closest TD values. Use a Natural white, if possible. Otherwise, pick the one with a TD &gt; 10 to minimize the color change it will cause. The green should also have a TD around 3 or 4.

Stained Glass HueForge Cardinal

Birds

emp3thy

This is a full size Mjolnir. Yes, full size. It's big. It takes about 600g of filament and around 19 hours to print, even on a P1S.&nbsp;It prints really, really well. I've simplified the model so it's basically a full hammer, a top and bottom handle (and a pommel) and then then some easily glued in plates for the hammer head. It's a no-brainer to assemble but it looks amazing.&nbsp;How have I got a full size Thors Hammer onto a single plate? Lots and lots of model editing and a lot of work getting supports set up properly. I've also spent a long time arranging the model so it fits on the plate and prints well.&nbsp;This hammer is big. It feels heavy when you hold it and it really looks something. I've made 4 of them and given 2 as gifts. I've made one of these on the P1S and the print quality is just incredible.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Mjolnir - Thor Hammer

Hammers

JabHook

*UPDATED FILE 3-7-2024&nbsp;I have worked on this model since it was placed here and am releasing version 2 - The lid has a major update where it now will snap together which enables the tumbler to have a nice clean look and the lid fits flush with the cup brim.  tree supports are added where needed.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/658611/2024-03-07_cc0b77770ff58.jpeg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/658611/2024-03-07_0a351c94d6685.jpeg">Assembly for the lid -  grab a small pliers and remove the little support under the middle of the top lid piece.  place a small dab of glue in there and snap the bottom part of the lid to that.  let it dry and you are all set to go.&nbsp;&nbsp;Here is a replica of the famous Stanley tumbler but in a keychain version.There is storage inside so you can keep your daily pill(s) if you are on the go, a folded bill (money), earrings, or other small items.&nbsp;Have fun!

Tumbler keychain - Stanley version, storage inside for pills, cash, or small item

Stanley Cup Stuff

Billrobland

Chain Links i use for Oversized Logos very easy to assemble and print quick. Put the last 2 links together then spin one link around and pull the 2 links attached to the center link past eachother this allows the chain links to not come apart.

Chain Links For Logo's With Video

Necklace / Chains

TheWallArtGuy

The Zen multilayer Cat can be composed of 5 layers or less ( I printed only 4 layers for the photos )Each “layer” is different, and can be used as unique wallart or combined with the others.I suggest to scale the files to the desired size and leave the height at 1mm.&nbsp;DON'T MISS THE ZEN MULTILAYER CAT BROTHER (Yang CAT) https://makerworld.com/it/models/99699

The Zen multilayer CAT

Multi-Layer

emmaginn

Wanted to see if I could come up with something for the Pill Organizer model contest. Was a lot of fun to make. This is a Days of the Week pill dispenser. You'll need seven small rubber bands for the spring back mechanism. I used some rubber band hair ties my wife had laying around, but I'm sure most any small rubber band would do. Only other thing you need to do is super glue the “Day Back” piece the the back of the days of the week blocks. This just helps them so that they won't fall out of the front. This was a lot of fun to make and I hope someone likes it and can get some use out of it. Enjoy!

Days of the Week Pill Dispenser

Pill Dispensers

zach13

<h2>DOUBLE CHECK WHICH VERSION YOU NEED BY CHECKING THE VERSIONS BELOW.</h2><h2>Description:</h2>This is a stackable can dispenser. The purpose of this was to fit as many cans of different types as possible in my standard depth fridge which for my use case was the 12oz 7 can version. See the versions section at the bottom for what cans and what capacities are supported. Leave a comment if you'd like me to add a different can size, ideally with measurements.&nbsp;<h2>Printing:</h2>I printed with Bambu PETG Basic but whatever you have should be fine. The pegs that hold it together are fairly tight, scale them down if you need to, especially if you're using a brittle filament. You may also want to use brim on the pegs if you're not using something with good bed adhesion.<h2>Assembly:</h2>The parts are assembled with 20 pegs. You will need an additional 8 pegs per level you wish to stack. Super gluing the joints during assembly is recommended, though not completely necessary depending on your imperfection tolerance. &nbsp;<h2>Versions:</h2>12oz (355ml):<a target="_blank" href="https://www.crowncork.com/beverage-packaging/products/beverage-cans/12oz-355ml-standard" rel="nofollow noopener">Info</a><figure class="table"><table><thead><tr><th>Cans</th><th>Assembled Dimensions (WxHxL)</th><th>Notes</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><th>8</th><td>134mm x 91mm x 545mm</td><td>278mm+ bed required, likely won't fit in most fridges. No print profile.</td></tr><tr><th>7</th><td>134mm x 91mm x 479mm</td><td>Should fit most American standard depth fridges</td></tr><tr><th>6</th><td>134mm x 91mm x 479mm</td><td> </td></tr><tr><th>5</th><td>134mm x 91mm x 347mm</td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;16oz (473ml):<a target="_blank" href="https://www.crowncork.com/beverage-packaging/products/beverage-cans/16oz-473ml-standard" rel="nofollow noopener">Info</a><figure class="table"><table><thead><tr><th>Cans</th><th>Assembled Dimensions (WxHxL)</th><th>Notes</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><th>7</th><td>171mm x 91mm x 479mm</td><td>Should fit most American standard depth fridges</td></tr><tr><th>6</th><td>171mm x 91mm x 413mm</td><td> </td></tr><tr><th>5</th><td>171mm x 91mm x 347mm</td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table></figure>16.9oz (500ml):<a target="_blank" href="https://www.crowncork.com/beverage-packaging/products/beverage-cans/169oz-500ml-standard" rel="nofollow noopener">Info</a><figure class="table"><table><thead><tr><th>Cans</th><th>Assembled Dimensions (WxHxL)</th><th>Notes</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><th>7</th><td>181mm x 91mm x 479mm</td><td>Should fit most American standard depth fridges</td></tr><tr><th>6</th><td>181mm x 91mm x 413mm</td><td> </td></tr><tr><th>5</th><td>181mm x 91mm x 347mm</td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;7.5oz (222ml): <a target="_blank" href="https://www.crowncork.com/beverage-packaging/products/beverage-cans/75oz-222ml-crownsleek" rel="nofollow noopener">Info</a><figure class="table"><table><thead><tr><th>Cans</th><th>Assembled Dimensions (WxHxL)</th><th>Notes</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><th>8</th><td>118mm x 83mm x 481mm</td><td>Should fit most American standard depth fridges</td></tr><tr><th>7</th><td>118mm x 83mm x 424mm</td><td> </td></tr><tr><th>6</th><td>118mm x 83mm x 366mm</td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

Stackable Can Dispenser

can holders

Ocular Dynamic

This is another cool dragon model originally by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4096" rel="nofollow noopener">TheRat </a>and cleaned up by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:218026" rel="nofollow noopener">illuminarti</a>. It can be a challenging print but manual supports were added in MeshMixer to try and make it easier. The trailing edges of the wings are very thin, less than 0.5mm, but the supports hold them up quite well.&nbsp;I've attached the model without the manual supports for your consideration.

Dragon

Dragons 

PhaseworksCA

Embrace the irresistible cuteness of Baby Yoda with this captivating low poly geometric 3D print, where he is depicted holding a love heart. Crafted with sharp, angular lines, this design beautifully captures the innocence and charm of the beloved character from the galaxy far, far away. The added element of the love heart enhances the warmth and affectionate nature of Baby Yoda, making it a perfect piece for fans seeking a blend of contemporary art with a touch of tenderness.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><a href="https://www.printables.com/@PhaseworksCA/store" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/599307/2024-02-27_cbac20a9d0926.png"></a><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>

Geometric Low Poly Valentines Baby Yoda

valentines 

Williams Industries

We have a lot of great stuff over at the Patreon: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/WilliamsIndustries" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/WilliamsIndustries</a>Patreon includes commercial use on all prints.

Rubix Cube Coaster

Coasters

maegu_

Wall Art - Decor Plants

Wall Art

BODY3D

Fidget Flower

Fidget 

Mr.Jay

Superman logo coasterSize 10cmMore superhero logo coasters in my designs

Superman logo coaster

Superman

Cat Coaster

cats

TripleGWorkshop

Color order: White, Green, Red.Quick Guide to changing filament~<ol><li>Have some paper to push away extruded filament.</li><li>When the MK3 jogs after a change it will spit out another inch, so I follow it with paper until it starts to move back down. Doing this has given great, repeatable results.</li><li>Use a tool like this to help changes→ <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/329171-filament-change-tool" rel="nofollow">https://www.printables.com/model/329171-filament-change-tool</a></li><li>Have fun!</li></ol><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:87.64%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/119869/2023-10-25_8sarryld83p0.png"></figure>

Vintage Mountain Dew Sign 3 Color

Signs

IXPatch

This is a Pikachu sculpture based on its original artwork on the cover of the (western version of) Pokémon Yellow Version. It's so chubby! And much cuter than the modern slender version, imo. I was actually very surprised when I noticed that there are no “fat Pikachu" models, so I decided to change that.In addition to the regular single-color version, I have also included a painted multicolor version for Bambu Studio.

Retro Pikachu - Pokémon Yellow Version Artwork

Pokemon

Every Day Counts

Well, Hello there big boy!&nbsp;Here is a fun bin designed for the desk or underneath the desk. It's pretty large at 185mm wide x 210mm deep and 260mm high. That's around 7.25" x 8.25" x 10.25" for the old skoolers.&nbsp;This design is for experienced printers that have it all together. Don't make this your first print after getting your printer.&nbsp;Don't try and scale it down - it's not going to work. Give me a bad rating for not working when scaled down, and then I will growl at you.&nbsp;This is a LARGE print. It's going to take around 780 grams of filament. That's the price you pay for such things. No grizzling. Talk to Apple in 1984 for the design if you want to grizzle.&nbsp;The front flap works best with some springs. I designed it for and used 8.5mm x 36.5mm extension springs. You may be able to get it to work with something similar or even some rubber bands. Give me a bad rating because you printed it out and then realised that you will need springs, and then I will shame you publicly.&nbsp;The front panel requires a fair bit of support underneath. It will come off very simply, but you must take care. A small flathead screwdriver and some side cutters will be required. Write a lousy comment stating that it was hard to remove the support; then, you can design your own models in the future. Instructions:<ul><li>Remove the support from underneath the front panel. Take care not to damage the attachment points, and be sure to clean out every last bit you can see. Special attention is needed for the flap attachment. </li><li>Add the badge to the front panel using a dab of superglue. If you are anti-Apple, then don't. I won't mind.</li><li>With the main body, clean the brims (if any)</li><li>With the top lid, clean the brims away (you have a burr removal tool, right?)</li><li>Attach one end of the springs to the front flap before attaching it to the front panel.</li><li>Slot the flap into the front panel at 90 degrees, and once fully in, swing it downwards.</li><li>Attach the other end of the springs to the front panel and then arrange them so they do not interfere when the flap swings inwards.</li><li>Place the main body on a desk on its back.</li><li>Locate the front panel onto the main body clips, then gently press them together from above. Wow, that feels good.</li><li>Stand it up and fit the lid! Cool, eh?</li><li>Show it to someone else.</li></ul>&nbsp;If you managed all of that, I am proud of you!&nbsp;To allow me to do more like this, please give me a thumbs up, collect it, and then write a really nice comment. My rating suggestion is five stars. Anything else will be an insult, and I will sulk for days.&nbsp;

Retro Apple Mac Trash Can

Classic Mac

m3553x

Ohio State Buckeyes Light Box (football, basketball, etc.)&nbsp;For these lightboxes, I just use standard settings, except use arachne walls and up the flow rate from .98 to 1.04. Everything else is standard. I have a 3x13mm slit in the box that should accomodate most led strip lights.&nbsp;If you download it, please post a make. &nbsp;Happy Printing.

Ohio State Buckeyes Light Box -  NCAA Football

Light Boxes

Fang Sterling

Grogu Christmas Ornament Baby Yoda Star Wars

Grogu Christmas Ornament Baby Yoda Star Wars

Xmas

dakjones82

If you're a cat person then you get it! Add some character to your holiday decorations this year.

Kitty Cat Christmas Door Decoration

Door Frames

R C 3D

Summary: Tooner is a pontoon boat designed to test the capabilities of your printer while serving as a benchmark for tooning your printer. The boat has several features that you can observe and measure in order to diagnose or tune your printer. First, ensure that your using your slicer’s default settings for a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height. This will be your baseline. After printing the Tooner, you’ll observe and measure the features in order to identify deficiencies and calibrate your printer.&nbsp;Print Profiles:<ol><li>The first print profile is the original model with default settings in Bambu Studio.</li><li>The second print profile is the 4-color variant.</li><li>The third print profile is the original model, with optimized bridging in Bambu Studio. If you're looking for a cleanly bridged canopy, use this one.</li></ol>&nbsp;Observe/Measure: After your Tooner is printed, you’ll observe the features for visible defects and measure features to ensure accuracy. The following will list the features and how to utilize them in your analysis:<ol><li>Pontoons: The pontoons are the base of the model with limited surface area touching the build plate. These should be able to print without adhesion issues, but are narrows enough that a poorly maintained build plate/defective filament/printer issues will quickly cause lifting. There's debossed text on the bottom of one of the pontoons that is raised by 0.4mm. At the front of the pontoons is a smooth overhanging curved surface that's notoriously difficult to print and easily reveals surface deviations. The bow of the pontoons begins with a 39 degree angle.<ol><li>Observe the bow of the pontoons for surface deviations which should be clearly identifiable if present. Ensure the body of the pontoon is round. The top of the bow will have layer lines visible where the body slopes into a point.</li></ol></li><li>Deck: The deck is bridged across the pontoons, has a raised border (0.3mm above the platform), and is otherwise flat across the entire top surface. The deck front to rear should measure 75mm.<ol><li>Observe the deck surface for a smooth, flat platform. The border should exhibit visible lines with a relatively flat surface. The sloped sides leading to the pontoons should be smooth and free of deviations.</li></ol></li><li>Rails/Seating: The railing form uniform curved walls. The two walls on the left and right have a small section of strings designed into it. The rear has more text that is on the vertical plane and debossed by 0.1mm. The two passenger benches in the front follow the curve of the rails. The passenger bench in the rear has a curve that deviates from the rails which have a 5.1mm fillet. The seat cushions overhang the base by 0.1mm. The seating box depth should be 6.5mm. The seating height from the deck to the top of the cushion should measure 5.6mm. The width of the passenger openings in the railing should measure 8.5mm. The backrest height to the seat cushion should measure 6mm.<ol><li>Observe the railing to ensure the corners are smoothly rounded, the vertical surfaces are flat and smooth, the strings are mostly straight, with no strays or broken strings. The seating should be smooth with minimal details and slightly rounded edges. There should be clear distinction between the cushion and backrest.</li></ol></li><li>Captains Chair: The captain's seat has a console with a very thin visor, a steering wheel, and a crude decorative pattern on the seat cushion. The angle of the console slope where the visor meets is 10 degrees in relation to the deck.<ol><li>Observe the captain's chair for deviations. The captain's chair should have a very crude pattern on the seat cushion, the console should be smoothly rounded, and the visor should be offset from the edge by 0.1mm and appear smoothly rounded with minimal defects on the rounded corners. The steering wheel should be identifiable, with only minor deviations due to the layers being printed at an angle.</li></ol></li><li>Canopy: The canopy consists of 8 poles with a diameter of 1.5mm. The poles start out in 4 groups side by side and separate to distribute across the span at the top. There is a small interface layer that bridges across the poles. On top of that interface layer is the canopy, which bridges from one side of the other. The canopy then has a 45 degree angle in the front and rear and a curved top surface. The canopy should measure 31mm from front to rear. The angled poles are sloped at a 60 degree angle.<ol><li>Observe the poles for deviations near the bottom. These should show a distinction between the bottom of the pole and the point at which the printer is no longer printing the console visor. After that, the poles should be nicely rounded and smooth until about ¾ of the way to the top. At this point, most printers will begin to exhibit some deviations and skew. This is nominal and intended to show differences between default settings and whatever tooning you're trying to achieve. The awning should be crudely bridged across the two sets of poles. I say crudely because most printers will really struggle at this point on the default settings. You may see some drooping, which is nominal and not a cause for concern. This is also meant to be a clear indicator of improvement or failure when making adjustments. After the bridge is complete, the canopy should be relatively smooth on the front and rear, and rounded on the top with obvious layer steps.</li></ol></li></ol>Tooning: What I refer to as tooning is a a combination of calibrating, tuning, and slicing your models. There are two reasons I use this term; one being that calibration is not tuning and tuning is not calibration. The second reason is that how you slice your model has a much more significant impact on how the print job is executed than any amount of fine tuning you hope to do.&nbsp;As far as the first reason goes, these terms sound like they might mean the same thing or something close, but in reality calibration is what ensures your machine is working accurately, while tuning is ensuring your print job is executed well for a particular sample. To calibrate your machine, you'd measure features that are designed to a specific measurement and compare your results to determine whether your machine is accurate or not. To tune your machine, you first need to know what you're tuning it for. In other words, are you looking to further optimize your bridging? If so, then you're going to be tuning the machine to perform better bridging. To start with, you'll print the Tooner with the default slicer settings as your benchmark. Once you've got that printed out, you can analyze the results and make whatever adjustments you think are needed, then print another Tooner and compare the results. Rinse and repeat.&nbsp;Slicing your model is another topic all in itself, but goes hand in hand with tuning. Everything from the way your orient the part to the flow ratio of your extrusion lines during bridging will make an impact on how well your printer performs the particular task you're seeking to optimize. There are plenty of solid resources out there that describe slicers and how to use them, but this will take time to master.&nbsp;OPTIMIZED BRIDGING: I've been doing some of my own tooning on the ole' Bambu Lab X1C, and wanted to share (and document) my results and how I got there. One of my photos will show a series of Tooners with where I started to where I finished. In the beginning, I had a few sagging lines in the front and rear of the canopy, a handful of minor defects, and some layer separation due to the sagging. I finished with a straight, flat underside with only one or two layers of separation on the front and rear angles.&nbsp;So, what did I change? To start with, I reduced my bridge flow so the initial overhangs on the canopy wouldn't droop. Next, I wanted the walls and infill to bond more tightly together so the canopy has more stability as it's printed, so I increased the infill/wall overlap. Next, those overhang speeds had to change. The bridges were being printed just fine, but the overhangs were drooping a bit. By increasing the overhang speeds to more closely match the overhang speeds, I ended up with the overhang walls at the front and rear of the canopy that didn't droop and held the bridge in place much better. Finally, I switched the order of walls to outer/inner/infill. I did this because the drooping was occurring on only the outermost walls of the canopy at this point. Once I had all of those settings nailed, I ended up with a bridge almost as clean as the deck.&nbsp;Here were my settings:<ol><li>Bridge Flow: 0.94</li><li>Wall Order: Outer/Inner/Infill</li><li>Infill/Wall Overlap: 25%</li><li>Overhang Speed (25%, 50%): 60 mm/s</li><li>Overhang Speed (50%, 75%): 50 mm/s</li><li>Overhang Speed (75%, 100%): 40 mm/s</li></ol>Anyway, I hope to bring more variants and styles in the near future, but for now let's get the Tooner all over the place!&nbsp;CHANGELOG&nbsp;UPDATE (11/11/2023):&nbsp;Added a colored print profile.&nbsp;UPDATE (11/9/2023):&nbsp;Refined some parts of the boat. The canopy was destined to create a single droop in the back that was unavoidable regardless of tuning. It should now be printable under optimal conditions. Added strings in the rails and text on the back and underneath one of the pontoons. I'll be removing the original print profile soon, but the new profile will be available in its' place. Not much difference other than some finishing touches.&nbsp;INITIAL UPLOAD (11/8/2023):&nbsp;Tooner, the tune boat is designed to test your printers tuning. After printing, you'll examine the different parts and determine which area your printer may be struggling with in order to improve your print quality. With that said, I designed the awning and poles such that your printer will likely struggle to complete. This is intentional. The point of this is that if the canopy collapses, you've either got an issue with your printer or you have wet/brittle filament. If it barely succeeds, you're likely in a good spot. If you bridge it as well as the primary deck, you've likely tuned your printer better than the average user. I've determined this by testing my own filaments, and the key indicator to me was when I pulled out some PLA from a sealed cereal container with a color changing desiccant packet that clearly had moisture. So, I threw this WAF in the printer and watched it collapse a few times. I threw it in the drier overnight, and the next day my boat succeeded albeit with a few strings and some drooping, but that's a bit expected from PLA Silk. You'll see the successful Tooner in the images.&nbsp;The reasoning for creating the Tooner was to perform a benchy style test, with some stringing and bridging tests to boot. The primary deck and pontoons should print very well assuming you have no obvious issues with your printer or filament. The canopy and its' poles are another story. Those require a bit more tooning (pun intended). The poles serve to test for stringing as they're very small in diameter and become further spaced apart as it climbs. The canopy is bridged across two very narrow platforms that are bridge across the poles. The canopy is meant to just barely succeed. In fact, you'll like have some drooping strings on the first layer and a few strays where the poles meet the canopy. If these succeed, albeit with a few defects, you can consider your printer in good shape. If these print as well as the primary deck, keep your grubby mits off your printer's HW for now.&nbsp;When observing the Tooner, you'll want to check for the following:<ol><li>The pontoons should adhere to the build plate without a brim. They should appear as smooth as you'd expect from a 0.2mm layer height, and you should see visible layer changes right where the hull of the pontoons meet the primary body.</li><li>The deck should bridge fairly well with only minor visible lines directly under the platform. There should be a raised edge around the perimeter of the deck, it should have only minor visible lines, and there should be no severe defects on the 45 degree angle surrounding the deck. Finally, the deck's top surface should be smooth.</li><li>The railing should be smooth (you'll probably see your print seam somewhere in there).</li><li>The seating should have a 0.2mm overhang at the edges, which should print great. You should not see any sagging or dropping. The captains chair should have a very crude decorative touch on the seating, and a lightly visible seam going horizontally just beneath the backrest.</li><li>The console should come out smooth, with a 0.1mm offset where the visor meets the console. The steering wheel should be clearly visible with obvious layer lines.</li><li>The poles should have a very faint transition right where the console visor ends, followed by a fairly smooth appearance until they reach about ¾ of the way to the awning. At this point, you may see some stray strings, minor stringing, slight defects, or other minor appearance concerns. This is considered nominal. If there's severe stringing, you may need to investigate retraction, filament quality, humidity levels, and there are plenty of printer specific issues that could also contribute. This is just a reference to start from, so you can compare after doing your tuning and confirm whether or not it has improved.</li><li>The canopy should have obvious dropping on the bottom, followed by a semi-smooth, rounded appearance throughout the primary body. The top should show the obvious 0.2mm layer height lines, and the very top surface should be smooth. The edges surrounding the canopy may appear slightly curled or appear to overhang a bit too far. You can improve this by slowing your printer down, but this is considered nominal and there's really no cause for concern.</li></ol>Bonus feature: she floats!&nbsp;My initial tests were done with Polymaker PLA Pro and Bambu Lab PLA Basic.

Tools

Flags

Stained Glass

Birds

Hammers

Stanley Cup Stuff

Necklace / Chains

Multi-Layer

Pill Dispensers

can holders

Dragons

valentines

Coasters

Wall Art

Fidget

Superman

cats

Signs

Pokemon

Classic Mac

Light Boxes

Xmas

Door Frames

Test Parts