Alan M K

modybird

Mimic chest that can either be used as a dice box or a figurine. &nbsp;Printed in 0.16mm layers. Supports should be easy to remove with the profile I provided, but be careful removing the support on the teeth.

Mimic Dice Chest

TheIceBurge

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR CLOGS OR DAMAGE TO YOUR TOOLHEAD, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!&nbsp;If you give a low rating, please explain why, what you changed (if anything), list the filament youre using, if you dried it, and how you started the print (Bambu Studio ONLY), and post pictures so I can help you.&nbsp;Dont leave a 1 star review with no explanation, thats toxic and looks bad on the profile. I do respond to everyone. If you do leave a 1 star review without listing the info in the above bold outline, I WILL report your review for removal. I dont play ignorant games.&nbsp;The other models in the pictures are not my models, I used them to test out transparency!&nbsp;This was tested on an X1C.&nbsp;Good for stained glass prints!&nbsp;You ever wanted to print glass? Well its not glass but its close enough.With this profile, you can print ICE cubes, you can also use this profile to print very transparent 3D models, but theres some rules you HAVE to follow:&nbsp;P.S. You can try using transparent colored filament as well. It wont look as transparent as clear but you can do some stuff with it. IC3D is what I use for filament, links are in the rules below. Also for A1 Series and non Bambu printers, copy the values from Bambu Studio on this profile to your slicer, or if your using Bambu Studio with A1 Series or your non Bambu printer, just copy all settings over using 2 windows.&nbsp;FOR THE NO FAN PROFILE, MAKE SURE YOUR PATTERNS ARE ALL SET TO ALIGNED RECTILINEAR! A commenter noted theirs wasnt set to aligned rectilinear when they ran the profile, which may be a Bambu issue since all my prints were done with that same profile and it was set to aligned rectilinear before I even uploaded these profiles.&nbsp;<ol><li>DO NOT RUN THIS PROFILE OFF THE BAMBU HANDY APP ON YOUR PHONE. ONLY USE BAMBU STUDIO. The Bambu Handy app cannot read custom profiles.</li><li>Restart your printer (power off for 5-10 seconds and power back on) before using this profile, ive had weird issues with the X1C deciding to put lines through the x and y axis on each layer as if the extrusion multiplier kept dropping as I continued to reprint for testing purposes even though it was set properly.</li><li>Leave ALL settings alone unless you know what youre doing. I mean this in the most literal way. I dont want you changing settings then complaining that it didnt work or it clogged on you, because the problem is on you at that point.</li><li>DO NOT SWITCH THE PRINTER PROFILE, print it as it sits on the printer its configured for, this profile will warn you that its not the right printer if youre using an X1C. Ignore the warning and print it anyway. Switching the printer profile will cause you to lose everything this profile is.</li><li>DO NOT SWITCH THE FILAMENT PROFILES, print it as it sits but select the filament you want to use to print with whether its in the AMS or stand alone.</li><li>SAVE THE PRINTER PROFILE, PRINT PROFILE, AND THE FILAMENT PROFILE as soon as you open it so you have them for later. You can name them all “ICE Profile” or “Glass Profile” or whatever you feel.</li><li>THIS IS TUNED FOR A HARDENED STEEL .4 MM NOZZLE. If youre using stainless or brass, dont complain to me if its over extruding or under extruding. Youll have to tune your extrusion multiplier yourself to get the results you want. You may also have to tune your hot end temp as well if youre not using hardened steel.</li><li>Super tiny prints like screws or bolts or very small printable areas just will not work with this profile. You have been warned. The updated profile should help with smaller models.</li><li>I used IC3D Clear Transparent filament (labelled as Natural), you can pick it up on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.ic3dprinters.com/shop/recycled-petg/" rel="nofollow noopener">IC3D&#39;s website</a> or at your local <a target="_blank" href="https://www.microcenter.com/product/644083/ic3d-175mm-natural-recycled-petg-3d-printer-filament-1kg-spool-(22-lbs)" rel="nofollow noopener">Micro Center</a> store. Other filament brands may not work with the exact extrusion multiplier that I have set. Again, no complaining if youre not using the same filament or hardware. Different filament brands and different nozzles require different settings.</li><li>Keep your chamber around 38C. Theres room for movement with this, but for the love of Bambu, DO NOT let your chamber get over 42C. The extruder motor gets insanely hot under normal conditions to the point it burns you if you touch it. 42C+ and hot extruder motor = melted filament inside the extruder body. Your extruder WILL CLOG if you dont follow this rule! Ask me how I know. Open your top glass or take it off, ams risers are great for this purpose. Leave the exhaust fan at 40% or turn it up, thats your choice. But leave it on 40% or up. And keep your front door closed to your printer. For other printers, a chamber may not be necessary, but there cant be a draft around your print.</li><li>260C on the hotend, anything above or below this temp have lower quality transparency. Ive been working on this profile for 2 months or so.</li><li>80C bed to ensure the layers melt together properly and to keep the print sealed to the bed during the whole printing process. This is necessary.</li><li>DRY YOUR FILAMENT IN A <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Filament-S2-Printer-Dehydrator/dp/B0BM97WX1D/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=9Z5YDRGB1EGM&amp;dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qj8bDnbbYe3NVdvffaBD_Aq0DYAe9JR5UYMC8WvMBPiNiq2cny_X4bl0DwQ8HxX-YcwrUs8sGH8Tblougn4ZzVGaLxV3i_InuRq-UkgbgsJuSBgWix83x07PEHkyoSz3ZSMM5kShlIkMcdf3us5WZmA4jO7_oSfH8czL1kJwFF4lWHBjwJGPxzqWRnIW1O3aUD_yAurX1r56etMOeUyBDcCOn1aDgVnSsfmMvuBKBr0._173YSuRcBwkDgt4eoGM65CJkVzu3flKKTvbbd2141I&amp;dib_tag=se&amp;keywords=s1%2Bfilament%2Bdryer&amp;qid=1712304995&amp;sprefix=s1%2Bfilament%2Bdryer%2Caps%2C111&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">FILAMENT DRYER</a> AND KEEP IT DRY! I cant stress this enough. If your filament is cloudy, its one of two things. Either your filament is wet (you didnt dry it for long enough or its not in a dryer while youre printing), or you turned on the toolhead fan too high.</li><li>DONT RUN THE TOOLHEAD FAN TOO HIGH. This will cause the filament to cool rapidly before the next layer goes on, making each layer cloudy. 0% for layer times passed 15 seconds, currently 20% for 5 second layer times.</li><li>0.1mm layer height, leave this alone for top to bottom transparency. If youre brave enough to drop it to .08mm layer height, experiment around with it. But just know that .08mm layer height clogged my extruder a couple times because the filament wasnt moving through the extruder fast enough which caused the heat from the extruder motor to melt the filament inside the extruder body. Im pretty sure I also had a nozzle clog at .08mm layer height as well. A butane torch and Allen head tool was able to get me out of that bind.</li><li>25-30mm/s. This speed is the optimal speed for perfect transparency.</li><li>PEI smooth beds, or pey or any other smooth pe style beds should work fine for glass like bottoms, dont use glue on these beds for this profile. If youre using a textured bed and complain that you cant see through it, thats your fault. Youll see through the model but not through the textured bottom. If youre using an engineering plate or a cool plate, just dont. If you do, use glue. Youll thank me later. Again if you cant see through it and you used glue, thats on you. If you for some reason are using a glass bed in these printers, which im sure is very possible, dont complain about trying to remove the print. Yea the glass bed would be perfect for a glass bottom finish, but probably a good idea to use glue for a glass bed for easy part removal.</li><li>100% infill for the best results.</li><li>NO BRIMS. these are hard enough to remove from the models as it is. With an 80C bed, brims arent necessary. Unless you have a model with the tiniest base ever, id leave brims off. Or you can use a raft which I have not set up for easy raft-to-object removal.</li><li>ALIGNED RECTILINEAR for all layer patterns is the best way for the layers to mend together properly and for the best transparency! Normal rectilinear gives you a crosshatched pattern through every single layer and you will see it. The extrusion multiplier will fill in the gaps automatically to where you wont see any pattern lines through the object youre printing.</li><li>DO NOT USE FILAMENT FLOW CALIBRATION WHEN STARTING THE PRINT! This overrides the extrusion value thats set.</li><li>Supports are off by default, but if your printing something with a large overhang or bridge, turn it on. Classic supports for small bridges and up are recommended. I havent tried tree supports on this profile so thats on you if you use it.</li><li>If you do see lines between each layer in the x and y axis, lightly step your extrusion multiplier up by .002 and do some test prints till you get it dialed in. Not every printer will work perfect because of how the extruder motors are wound up in the factory.</li></ol>This is the result of under extrusion:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-05_2c006beed0822.jpg">This is the result youre looking for:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-05_9301732ddd8f8.jpg">You might have boogers on the walls of square prints, this is normal for the extrusion multiplier thats set. Just use edge cutters and clean it up. You WILL have lines in the top surface, this is normal for the extrusion multiplier thats set. But if you have a plastic annealing oven or a butane torch, turn on ironing with the settings that are set for ironing already, and let it anneal, this should further improve your glass like finish! Ironing WILL cause boogers to form on the edges since its ironing out the extra filament thats lifted up. Using a torch is hard to do for annealing purposes, the part WILL warp as it cools and if you leave the torch on it for too long, it will start to bubble and ruin the part. For my safety and your safety on the torch method, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGES OR YOU BURNING YOUR HOUSE DOWN. Use safety gear, go in a well ventilated area and keep a fire extinguisher next to you during the torching process just in case. Thank you love you &lt;3&nbsp;This is what torching your top layer would look like at 5mm thick:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-08_3561453eb1b9a.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-08_986a2dc030241.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-08_9070627af6b84.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-08_8cf02d09d4cd3.jpg">&nbsp;Fixed the issues that were underlined here, check out the new updated profile!&nbsp;IF THE UPDATED FAN PROFILE CAUSES PROBLEMS IN YOUR WALLS, USE THE PROFILE WITH NO FAN. THE NO FAN PROFILE FIXED A COMMENTERS ISSUE THEY WERE HAVING! BE SURE IF YOURE USING AN ENGINEERING PLATE OR COOL PLATE ON THE NO FAN PROFILE, CHANGE THE TEMPS ON THE BEDS TO 80C!

PETG Glass Profile: Print ICE Cubes X1C P1S

Profiles

GlennovitS 3D

UPDATE 13. Dec 2023 - Added 12 more sizes! (same lengths, but with a bigger or smaller lid/opening - size 30 and 50. Size 40 is the original) Enjoy!&nbsp;With this simple little print, you can make your bags a lot easier to use in the kitchen! It’s easy to open, pour and close again. Just print and mount on the bag and you are ready to go! No extra hardware needed - all 3D printed. Ready within an hour - almost no reason not to try this ;-)<h2>Overview</h2>The model comes in 18 sizes for now! It's based on the diameter of the lid/opening and the length of the clip. The diameter comes in 3 sizes:<ul><li>30 mm</li><li>40 mm</li><li>50 mm</li></ul>All lengths of the clips in a particular diameter size, uses the same Cylinder and Lid.The clip comes in 6 lengths (currently from XS to XXL). The total length of the different sizes is approx.:<ul><li>XS: 55, 65, 75 mm (depending on the diameter of the lid/openening)</li><li>S: 90 mm</li><li>M: 120 mm</li><li>L: 150 mm</li><li>XL: 180 mm</li><li>XXL: 210 mm</li></ul>For your information, the sizes used on the images are:<ul><li>Pink: 40 - XS</li><li>Yellow: 40 - XL</li><li>Blue: 30 - XS</li></ul>If you have a request for more sizes or other ideas that would make this clip even better, please leave a comment and I’ll get back to you!<figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:40.53%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/450294/2023-12-11_bc82b2a49eaeb.gif"></figure><h2>Assembly</h2><ol><li>Cut a hole in the bag (fx. a hole in the corner just big enough to fit the cylinder)</li><li>Hold the Cylinder in the hole with the thread sticking out.</li><li>Mount the Clip around the bag and Cylinder base</li><li>Screw the Lid on</li></ol><h2>Print instructions</h2>It prints easy and can print with default values. There are some tips though to make it better.<ul><li>Supports: No - the print-in-place hinge prints without supports!</li><li>Walls/perimeters: 3-5 - the more walls, the stronger but more filament is used - so test a see what you find the best.</li><li>Infill: The more infil, the stronger it will be. Mostly needed on the longer Clip versions.</li></ul>&nbsp;Happy printing!&nbsp;<h2>Want to show your support?</h2>You can see all my designs on Printables - and you can become an active supporter. I would really appreciate it!<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join</a>

Ultimate Bag Clip (with Lid - easy access!)

kitchen

SavageLau

<h2>If you want a commercial license, check out my bio and get it from Patreon.</h2><h2>Personal use only.</h2>&nbsp;This model is design for MakerWorld light contest (2/5). Complete free version is only available on here Makerworld. <h3>Many people have contacted me said they willing to pay for the model. Other platform product manager reach and out said I could use their platform and selling this design for some money, but I have decided to keep it here for free for now. So there will be more people could enjoying it :) So show me your finshed print, I would like to see it. </h3><h3> Anywhere else you see this model upload is Unauthorized (please notify me and report them), beside my own account (SavageLau). </h3>&nbsp;<h2>If you would like purchase LED light needed for this design and filament from Bambu Lab Offical website: Affiliate link is below, so I can get some commission to support my future work. </h2><h2><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4h4np" rel="nofollow noopener">https://shrsl.com/4h4np</a> </h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-03-23_4ad27b7082fe3.png"></figure><h2>Filaments that I use for this project: (Bambu Lab Offical website:)</h2><h2><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4h4ns" rel="nofollow noopener">https://shrsl.com/4h4ns</a> </h2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>You may also like this design:</h2>PeaShooter Lamp Kit 001. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/174475#profileId-191833" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/174475#profileId-191833</a> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;My boss saw some Bellsprout light the other day and she want me to design one. I have one LED Lamp kit come with my a1mini and sitting for a while. So why not turning it into what she want. So the design started adpot the lamp kit into Bellsprout.I found this pic on Google, based on the posture and proportion started deisng.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_bc131748fd272.png"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-01_33679f29d502a.png"></figure><h2>Update: </h2><h3>2/2/2024. A new profile was made for a1mini. Increased infill/walls on base and body part. </h3>Model main body have been reduced in size inorder to meet the build plate size for a1mini with muti-color prints. &nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2010665163" rel="nofollow noopener">@Sascha2202</a> feedback it is a bit hard to keep banlance. Weight increased on printing profile by adding more infill and walls. Weight for that part from 160g to 202g, lowered center of gravity. Consider head is around 40g + led weight, it should do well now. <h3>2/1/2024. Joints redesigned. </h3>Improved joints firction load, strength, tolerancing. New turning angle sets around 13.5 degrees max for each joints. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:36.72%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-01_d00693a8b7acb.png"></figure>“Head” part fit and finish improving. <h3>Revisions and Tests today:</h3><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_ffe7e41994dec.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Before you print(Important!):</h2>Run the joint test print first with the filament you are going to use for joints and body, before you doing the full print! This is important. Depend on filaments you use for the joint parts, there will be sinkage rate difference, and firction load on joint will be different.&nbsp;I put very tight tolerancing on design, but it may not work as intended when you printing with your filaments, so run the test and confirm joints is very tight to each other. Other wise You will not get the desired result.&nbsp;&nbsp;Joints with other parts are standard size. There is one “Tight” profile for joints. There are two types of joint, regular and with wire clip one. You will need to print total of 12 or above (maybe less than 15) to get good proportion. &nbsp;Joints designed best work with 4 wall layers, and 10% to 20% infill, adding more infill will not improve the strength, will only leading part failure during assembly. &nbsp;<h2>Hard ware:</h2>This design require Lamp LED Kit 001 from Bambu Lab. All other parts are printable. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-31_bca061fd80f1d.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Post work:</h2>Removing brims from all parts, when you remove brim from joints part, confirm it is fully removed. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_dec1b2c670225.gif"></figure><h2>Assembly:</h2>Refer these gif image. Joints is a bit hard to push in, refer how I do it, holding the bottom part with you fingure, it will reduce the change of failure. &nbsp;Joints:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_5c978e23e8634.gif"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51.25%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_9f2e463b2d8a6.gif"></figure>Fully assembly:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_9a975d341b61f.gif"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Design:</h2>Lamp kit is 60mm dia, 8mm thickness. based on that dims and make rough draft to evaluate the overall size.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_34bf66e6b20e5.png"></figure>&nbsp;Working on some parts, and integrate them in the end.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_4880a9ab2336a.png"></figure>&nbsp;I started with wanting ball joint on the head, so it will able to turn angles. End up why not to have more ball joints on the body.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_b08f0ea2e5ee9.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_80ec7f991cbaa.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_80ed16d7dd498.png"></figure>&nbsp;Ball joints is pain in the axx to work with. I want it to have a lot of friction load in normal condition. so the outter shell shall have very small tolerance to the ball or even smaller. Ended spending a lot of time try in truth to testing out different tolerances and make design revisions.Still not perfect, but it work for this application. You gain a lot of DOF, but it is a bit brittle, depends on your materials.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_153933e0ba5bb.png"></figure><h2>Revisions and tests:</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-31_641c974fd0d58.png"></figure>

BellSprout Lamp LED Kit 001

Desk / Office 

emmaginn

Wanted to see if I could come up with something for the Pill Organizer model contest. Was a lot of fun to make. This is a Days of the Week pill dispenser. You'll need seven small rubber bands for the spring back mechanism. I used some rubber band hair ties my wife had laying around, but I'm sure most any small rubber band would do. Only other thing you need to do is super glue the “Day Back” piece the the back of the days of the week blocks. This just helps them so that they won't fall out of the front. This was a lot of fun to make and I hope someone likes it and can get some use out of it. Enjoy!

Days of the Week Pill Dispenser

Usefull

Cjwelcome

This mechanical Pill organizer box can help store even some of your larger pills for a convenient and labeled AM-PM cycle. This design uses absolutely no supports whatsoever in order to provide you the most user friendly experience in printing with ease. Simply print the components and throw them together for a super cool lever action dispenser with a satisfying click to its internal ratcheting mechanism! No need to remove components or disassemble this box for refills, simply open the lid and replenish your next weeks dosages. Stands upright for easy storage in your cupboard or bathroom medicine cabinet. Continue reading below for any updates and Enjoy!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000172691/design/2024-02-05_32261aba83369.gif"></figure>EDIT 1: Added a pill fit tester so you can see if your amount of pills fit in the very quick spiral vase print then that is how much volume each section has available. Many people cant quite guage how much room each section has so this seems like it will help everyone out if they arent sure and dont want to waste time printing the whole thing. Happy Printing!&nbsp;EDIT 2:•Added V2 box which fixes empty spaces inside the box which could potentially jam smaller pills inside when using.•Added multiple language labeled drums! English, Spanish, Polish, German, French  and now Romanian! If there&#39;s a language you&#39;d love to see included then drop me a DM!&nbsp;EDIT 3:•Some people seem to have some fitment issues with the inner rotating drum. For this I&#39;m sorry and looking at my model that specific part has ~0.15mm Radial tolerance (Tol.= 114.3mm - 114mm / 2 = 0.15mm Radial Tol.) which for some printers can become too tight. For this I recommend printing everything else the same but for the center drum, print it at 99.5% scale should put the drum around 113.5mm, adding another 0.25mm radial tolerance if your printer seems to print too tight which should solve that issue of fitment.•Second is more of a simple sizing request for some. For everyone who loves the design but thinks its a little on the small side for the amount or size of pills they need to take, I have found a solution in the very easy form of scaling the model! For every component except the center drum, you will want to scale up from 100% to 120%. The main case will need to be rotated 45° then upscaled and all others small components can just be upscaled to 120% as they currently sit. The center drum in order to keep it from being too tight, scale it up only to 119.75%. That should be able to then hold up to six (27mm L x 10mmØ pills) in every section and still be under 6&#34; tall. If you upscale it to 120% and the mechanism doesnt seem to be clicking the drum into place that is because the tolerance of the ratchet wheel under the drum will now have a little slack in it. To solve this, place a small piece of electrical tape or scotch tape on one or two faces of the sqaure peg on the base until the ratchet sprocket has no wiggle room shown below.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000172691/design/2024-02-07_e78b9474b42e.jpg">&nbsp;EDIT 4: Some people gave feedback that their prints were too tight of tolerance and the center drum would not be able to spin or the main hinge was binded and would snap at the base when trying to break it free. Another issue of individuals that need to take smaller pills or chalk like pills would have them break and or become caught in the lever arm above the opening section. To solve these issues I have opened up the tolerance for both the drum section and beefed up the hinge of the main box as well as added a fin section that covers the lever arm allowing the pill section to be fully covered allowing no space for pills to get caught between. The only difference is with the assembly which will require a small drop of superglue at the three pin locations for the two alignment slots and the central lever pin cavities. Because few of these instances have occured, the V2 will remain available for people to download and print but if you are interested in a bulkier hinge, looser toleranced and no risk at all of pills getting caught at the open ended section then V3 is for you. Im always open to feedback and Italian labeled drum is soon to come for this edit #4!&nbsp;&nbsp;ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS: Be sure your parts are free and clear of wispy strings and your machine/filament is properly calibrated for accurate printing. These models are meant to assembly together with relative ease and tolerances but improper printing/old filament can cause tolerances to seem tight. Make sure the notch mark on the Drum-Lock ring is facing the front pill opening of the box or else the ratcheting mechanism will not line up properly.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000172691/design/2024-02-05_43efbd423805d.gif"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000172691/design/2024-02-05_9a1e8430cd059.jpg">(V2 Assembly):May or may not have some tight fit issues on case by case basis and potential for pill to get grabbed by the lever arm.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000172691/design/2024-02-05_63d37f8c0c547.gif">(V3 Assembly)<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000172691/design/2024-02-11_042dd9cb10122.gif"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000172691/design/2024-02-11_91df90be1061.png">&nbsp;!CAUTION!…Be sure to keep away from children as we all must remember that these are still for pill/medication storage and must be treated as such regardless of how cool 3D printing their storage is. Be safe and happy printing!&nbsp;

Mechanical Weekly Pill Organizer(NEW MULTILINGUAL)

jarvizar

3d miniature of the City of London!&nbsp;Model created in Blender using the <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/vvoovv/blosm" rel="nofollow noopener">Blosm</a> addon.&nbsp;&nbsp;Check out my collection of other miniature cities: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1935755220/collections/146964" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/u/1935755220/collections/146964</a>&nbsp;Other London Miniature including Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, London Eye, and more: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/115949#profileId-124616" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/115949#profileId-124616</a>&nbsp;<h3>Printing & Slicing Details</h3>&nbsp;This model was designed to be printed with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.16mm layer heights.Try using a 0.2mm nozzle (0.08mm layer heights) or scaling up for even finer detail!&nbsp;Note: If roads or other small details disappear after slicing, try lowering the extrusion/line width of external perimeters (outer walls) closer to 0.4mm OR use Arachne walls. The included “Designer Profile” should have the above settings pre-applied and is ready to slice & print!&nbsp;Filament used in photos: Sunlu Matte White (miniature), Bambu Matte Charcoal/Black (frame), Sunlu Sky Blue (water)&nbsp;<h3>Framing Details</h3>&nbsp;This model measures almost exactly 6.7in by 4.7in (170.5mm X 119.5mm) and should fit most 5x7 frames (assuming frame lip/overlap is around a quarter inch). Feel free to change the scale/size of the model(s) to meet your needs.&nbsp;Personally I use these cheap frames from Amazon: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8HY7YSQ" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8HY7YSQ</a>And blue printer paper: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Astrobrights-491618-Multipurpose-8-5-Inch-11-Inch/dp/B00006IDQT" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IDQT</a>&nbsp;I also included a fully printable frame (including a 1mm thick water plate) designed to fit all my miniature cities.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/726566/2023-12-27_7536c6348b762.webp"><figcaption>Gif of the Printable Frame</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;A frame is not required! This model looks great by itself and can be displayed almost anywhere.&nbsp;See my <a target="_blank" href="http://patreon.com/jarvizar" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> for a commercial license, early downloads, polls towards future models, and more!&nbsp;

City of London 3D Miniature

RIK_DESIGN

Print in Place real shooting Crossbow plane with ammo as little planes. Shoots about 8m with PLA and 10m in PETG (more flexible). TIP: Load and unload the tension of the arms a few times to make them easy and supple. Is excellent with Bambu basic PLA, supple and strong. This design was a personal restriction model like print in place, most fit A1 mini, real shooting. I had a lot of fun (and frustration) designing this!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239759/2023-12-05_c99be8d57491.gif"></figure>&nbsp;Have funRIK

Print in Place real shooting Plane

toys

laisch

This is a scaled flyable micro version of the ASW20 sailplane from Schleicher. The model was created to be lightweight and printable in normal PLA.Because of it's lightweight behaviour it's a little bit fiddly to get it together properly but it's still strong enouth to survive crashes. So please read the Instructions before you build it.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_7930ef971b4078.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_b32700811d73d.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Printing:</h3>Make sure you align the STL-Files flat with the build plate like in the pictures.&nbsp;The Fuselage and the Nose have to be printed in Vase Mode (0.12mm) for best quality and perfect stability. Make sure you geht your part cooling right otherwise the thin tail section won't print properly because of overheating. Turn Bottom Layers to 1 Layer.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_2xua1hjiurid.jpg"></figure>The Wing parts are printed in normal Mode with 0.12mm Layerheight. Make sure that the first layer prints in 0.2mm.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_9yaljcx3l44z.jpg"></figure>After printing carefully remove the wings from your print bed and make sure not to overbend them.&nbsp;<h3>Assembly</h3>Clean up the parts from any print defects<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_mmrpjuqrlmyo.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Testfit if the wings fit inside the fuselage. The reinforcement part of the wing should touch the fuselage. If not, just cut away the parts wich are too big.<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_k461jxekhpvj.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_p3zauy5szoj1.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Wing not aligned with fuselage</td><td>Wing aligned with fuselage</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;When the testfit is ok, put some superglue onto the wings and glue them in place.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_v2l13jrwi32n.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_4dvxkmto8krd.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Make a testfit if the rudder fits in to the elevator. If not you can take a cutter knife to clean it up a little bit.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_hiskzgmshhkj.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;After that put the rudder and elevator together and secure them with some CA glue. Try to not use too much glue because of extra weight.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_c5669idp5zad.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Glueing the rudder/elevator assembly to the fuselage is the hardest part of the build. It works the best if you put one small drop onto the fuselage and temporary secure it. After that you can check the alignement and adjust it properly.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_sklgvblwtn24.jpg"></figure>If it looks fine, just secure the whole thing with more superglue.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_58pkfcwdk5pu.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;To make the whole thing fly you have to add weight to the nose and adjust the center of gravity. For me a 4,5mm steelball did the trick. You can temporary secure the nose to the rest of the plane with some tape and check it's flight properties.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_9hxutt2kk35r.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_ui9nlrtydip2.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;For checking the center of gravity you can balance it on two screws. The COG should be at ⅓ of the wing measured from the front.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_vbnmudk1iyhh.jpg"></figure>if it does'nt fly properly you can also try to give it a little bit of lift by bending the elevator up.&nbsp;If it flys, you now can finally glue the nose to the rest of the sailplane.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_jasr1r5920mo.jpg"></figure>Have Fun!&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="table" style="width:92.21%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col><col></colgroup><thead><tr><th colspan="3">If you like this model you may have a look at my other flying toys too</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/81500" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-12-03_bc748d83c35e18.jpg"></a></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/81500" rel="nofollow noopener">Geared Propeller Launcher</a></td><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/76104" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-12-03_eadf473572ad4.jpg"></a></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/76104" rel="nofollow noopener">Flying Bat</a></td><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/21091" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-12-03_a8fc21a53267c8.jpg"></a></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/21091" rel="nofollow noopener">Cross Bow</a></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

ASW20 Sailplane (micro glider - flyable)

fpv 

thelightspd

Hello my name is Stephen and I have a pretty large Patreon/Thangs account. This is really my first time uploading to Makerworld. I am doing this in honor of Bambu allowing me to be a affiliate. I am super excited about this. So about this model… First off I have 8 total annoying boxes on my patreon. including, the “liqour" box, Cash box, the Mini annoying box and many many many many more. I love making these. This is my latest. &nbsp;The purpose of this box was to house a gift card. Also to make it not to crazy hard to open, hence the “simply annoying gift box"…. this has 11 screws, and the tool is included in the bow/lid. &nbsp;All print files are uploaded! Enjoy and PLEASE follow, and post your makes! &nbsp;I reserve all commercial rights, only my Patreons and Thangs members can sell my products.

Simply Annoying Gift Card Box, 12 bolts, prints in place and articulates, just in time, 4, Christmas

TKB-3D

This is a Remix of a remix that I liked but had some ways to make it better. I listed the parts I had to buy down below.If you have any Questions feel free to ask in the comments I will try and get back with you.&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CPR392X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CPR392X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D3SSG55?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D3SSG55?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P5PJBCM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P5PJBCM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Converter-100-220V-Transformer-5-5x2-1mm-Accessories/dp/B08C594VNP/ref=sr_1_3_pp?crid=2CB8NJ7SOZWXA&keywords=12v%2Bpower%2Bsupply&qid=1698158317&sprefix=12v%2Bpower%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-3&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/Converter-100-220V-Transformer-5-5x2-1mm-Accessories/dp/B08C594VNP/ref=sr_1_3_pp?crid=2CB8NJ7SOZWXA&keywords=12v%2Bpower%2Bsupply&qid=1698158317&sprefix=12v%2Bpower%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-3&th=1</a>&nbsp;AND the Pastamtic it self is here<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/16606#profileId-15400" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/16606#profileId-15400</a>Recomened Clip that I use<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/16577#profileId-24912" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/16577#profileId-24912</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:66.23%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/461387/2024-01-27_00a184d4d2ebf.png"></figure>

Pastamatic duel Motor Power box

Tools

lindh3d

I designed this to be printed without support and as one piece.It will take about 1kg of plastic and over 24 hours to print. But I think this is a super nice practical print to have at home or in the garden or when camping etc…&nbsp;Made a small update to my print-in-place portable stool. I also made an instruction video on how to open it up the correct way without breaking it or cutting it open.Perfect print to use up all those leftover spools with just a few grams of filament on.The weight limit is not tested to its full potential.My weight is 85kg and a friend of my have tested it and his weight is 90kg. No problem at all. I guess it will be able to withstand 120-150kg if you sit perfectly in the center and don't wiggle on it <img src="https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/emoji.php/v9/t80/1/16/1f92a.png">. It's a print-at-your-own-risk thing <img src="https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/emoji.php/v9/t83/1/16/1f60e.png">&nbsp;Rekommended printsettings:0.4 nozzle4 Parimiters0.16 layer height15-20% infill gyroid5 top/bottom layersSupport yes : Snug Support from build platePrint mode: Arachne&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/PND58IzI9xc"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PND58IzI9xc" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/VZa5Ko11Rl0"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VZa5Ko11Rl0" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;EDIT: 231003More pegs for more weight support.0.1mm z offset for rings. this will make them tighter at first when printing making for easier and successful print. But more force when using the stool the first time is needed.&nbsp;EDIT: 231005 Added an extra chamfer on the inside ring to be able to take more force when disassembling the first time.&nbsp;EDIT: 231022 Larger holes on the top and bottom part for larger fingers :)Removed support for holes, new design can now use regular snug support for the top holes&nbsp;EDIT: 231203 After requests, I have now made a smaller kids version. This will also fit the A1 mini printbed size.

DND