3D_Mania

TBone_427120

This lampshade is designed for the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/sv/models/13717#profileId-13429" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Led Lamp 001</a> kit ←- Follow this link to get the model for the base that holds the electronics and that this globe shade locks into.&nbsp;This is a moon lithophane model for the LED Lamp kit base built using NASA SVS data.&nbsp;Before printing, it is highly recommended to test and calibrate the filaments. Test Prints are provided in a profile to test the trickier parts of the print, in particular the top of the moon. Printing the sliced off moon top will give an idea if the flow rates need to be calibrated or if the layer heights need refining.Both of these are eSun PLA, and both were printed using the same eSun PLA+ profile. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_e7cbdab0e3545.jpg"> The one on the left (&#34;creamy&#34;) needed different flow rate settings to avoid the gaps in the thin walls. Moral of the story: spend the extra 20 minutes to at least run the Auto Calibration for a new filament (and Manual isn&#39;t so bad to do either particularly if you print on the textured plate).&nbsp;The extra big brim is out of an abundance of caution. There is nothing worse than being ten minutes from the end of a 17 hour print and hearing *CRACK* followed by a spaghetti detected notification. If the test print indicates your filament needs a small center support for the top of the moon, “Normal/Snug” supports will work best. Use Manual supports (Auto will result in a ton of exterior supports for the base of the moon) and paint a small dot in the underside of the top of the Moon. The latest version of the model has been made a little thicker and is more forgiving for printing with most filaments. The part that interfaces with the lamp kit base can easily be made a different filament to match the LED holder material or just for variety. Just set the base filament for the “ModifyBaseSettings” modifier. Doing will require only one filament purge, no prime tower is necessary.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:41.3%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_33ea3c815b5ef8.png"></figure>&nbsp;If using the modifier to make a material change at the base, make sure to pick two filaments that have good adhesion to each other.Because the print requires supports in the base and cleanly removing those supports is important for a snug fit to the lamp kit base, a test print is provided to make sure the filament and support settings will release cleanly. Normal snug supports provided the best results (tree supports required much more effort).&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:17.23%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_f00e2d2199c81.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;If you do use the center support, when removing don&#39;t pull at individual folds from the bottom. Use something to grab on multiple folds as far up as possible (a pair of kitchen tongs works well) and twist.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:17.52%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_c2509972a68348.jpg"></figure>Twisting will put less stress on the top of the sphere and less risk of pulling away the moon surface. If you have wisps of filaments, resist the urge to use a heat gun because the variable thickness of the shell will contract non-uniformly under the heat. This is the result using a heat gun on a lithophane:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_a27a97fbc55ec.jpg">&nbsp;

Moon Globe for LED Lamp 001

lamps

Clucky

The Iron Throne remixed to have a smaller base to save some filament. This design prints with no supports, just slow down for overhangs and a little clean up may be required around the back side.

Iron Throne - No Supports

ShearLab

This Harry Potter's wand is printed in one piece and is about 20cm long. It's printed at an angle to provide the best structural strength and to avoid any plate textures transferring onto it.&nbsp;As per Bambu Lab recommendations, it is highly recommended to dry your filaments before printing to avoid issues (especially at the tip/ end of the print).&nbsp;Drying Requirements Wiki Page: <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/filament-guide-material-table#storage-and-material-specifications" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/filament-guide-material-table#storage-and-material-specifications</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Harry Potter's Wand

Harry

R o n i n

Samurai mask

Mask

jaminvanderberg

I bought a multi-pack of sandpaper and I wanted a good way to store it that allowed me to easily access the sandpaper I wanted. So I came up with this layered offset design, and it's worked well for me. The separate layers make it easy to pull the sandpaper out, and the labels make it easy to find what you're looking for.&nbsp;The organizer works well horizontal or vertically. It is very portable – it is easy to pick up the entire unit and move it to where you are sanding. It can be mounted to the wall using screw holes on the back of the organizer. Use M4 or #8 flat head screws to mount it. The screw holes are 180mm apart.&nbsp;The images show the 8x8mm configuration that worked best for me, but there are numerous other configurations available. You can further customize this in FreeCAD if you need a configuration that isn't available.&nbsp;I've provided approximates for how much sandpaper each organizer can hold. This is based on 150-grit sandpaper. Coarse sandpaper tends to be thicker than fine sandpaper. A 8mm level may only fit 6-8 of the 150-grit sandpaper, but will fit well over 10 sheets of 1000-grit sandpaper.&nbsp;I've also provided the overall dimensions of each organizer, along with an approximate weight of filament required. The 8x8mm configuration takes about 250g of filament.&nbsp;=======Printing This is printed standing upright. It is 240mm in length, but most configurations should still fit diagonally on a 230mm bed.No supports are required. A brim is recommended, but not strictly necessary. This is, however, a long print and it would be a shame if it fell over or even if a corner lifted up. The brim would be on the back/bottom of the organizer, so it shouldn't substantially impact the appearance.This design is optimized for a 0.4mm nozzle. I used the default 0.2mm layer height, but this is probably flexible. 2 walls and 15% infill are plenty. I printed mine in PETG because I want to store it in my garage, which isn't temperature controlled. The dividers between the levels are very thin, and would be prone to warping if printed in PLA and exposed to high heat. If you're using it only in a temperature-controlled environment, PLA should be fine. ===========CustomizationI have provided a parametric FreeCAD file for anyone who would like to customize their organizer. There is an object called “Configuration” in the FreeCAD file. If you click on that, it will give you a few parameters you can easily adjust: the number of levels, the height of each level, and whether or not to include labels and/or screw holes. Once done, click on the “Sandpaper Organizer” object and select File > Export… to export it as an STL.If you need to customize more than that, you can try adjusting more parameters in the ‘dd’ (dynamic data) object. Your results may vary depending on what you're trying to customize. You can also reach out to me if you have a specific need.

Parametric Sandpaper Organizer

workspace

pbbence1994

My next kit card is based of my local airport's favourite plane the yellow Antonov An-2. Cut the parts out with pliers or nail sissors. The assembly is easy and self explanatory. Have fun printing it!<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/465189/2024-01-20_b304a86656c44.jpg"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/465189/2024-01-20_e2371b636ae4e.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;

Plane Kit card (Antonov An-2)

To make

SimonMakerForge

This is another poop bin for A1.The dimensions of this bin is a good compromise for around space and quantity of ‘poop’ it can manages.I have added some hexagonal windows in order to limit the weight of PLA needed.In the bottom I made a special cave for my purpose (as you can see on the photos) but you can use also for different scope (i.e. like cable ways).This poop will fit directly in the left side of A1 3D printer (in my case the printer is installed over 4 additional soft rubbers which increase a little bit the bottom heght of the printer (please check if the foot of the bin (13mm height) will properly fit below your printer).&nbsp;Feel free to modify it as you want.I supply also the original .f3d file if you need.Enjoy it.&nbsp;&nbsp;

lamps

GOT

Harry

Mask

workspace

To make

upgrades A1