Andrew Popp

royeiror

<p>So I got into Padel and most women don't have pockets to keep balls on them, so after some testing, the previous holder's flaws came out, so I changed the holder diameter to fit the ball a bit more snugly, and added more teeth of the clip so it bites better on thin clothes.</p>

Padel / Paddle / Tennis Ball Holder Belt Clip V2

random

Cosmok

<p>1960's Caterpillar logo, easy swap at layer color change.</p>

1960's Caterpillar logo keychain

caterpillar

Lucky 13 Toys

<h3>Easy 13 is now on a CC BY 4.0 license!</h3><p>This means that you are free to share these files however you like,<i> including selling prints,</i> <strong>provided that you give proper attribution. </strong>You can give proper attribution by including this notice on your product page:</p><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/183765#profileId-202627" rel="nofollow noopener">EASY 13 Printable Jointed Figure </a>© 2023 by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.lucky13toys.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">Lucky 13 Toys </a>is licensed under <a target="_blank" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/?ref=chooser-v1" rel="nofollow noopener">CC BY 4.0 </a></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p>Please help me build my identity as a creator by referring to this design by its original name. Don't pass off my work as your own product.</p><p>Want to support future projects with a one-time donation? <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?business=65FUQ2SJMYDDS&no_recurring=0&item_name=Thanks+for+supporting+Lucky+13%21&currency_code=USD" rel="nofollow noopener">Make a PayPal donation here!</a></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>— </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@soozafone/activity/4153" rel="nofollow noopener">This is my own work, originally uploaded to Printables.</a></p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Introducing EASY 13!</h3><p><strong>Easy 13</strong> is the latest and greatest in my line of printable jointed figures. Did you like the idea of <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/148367-lucky-13-printable-jointed-figure" rel="nofollow noopener">Lucky 13</a> but find it too frustrating to print and assemble? Wish that <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/422353-mini-13-printable-jointed-figure" rel="nofollow noopener">Mini 13</a> wasn't such a squat little fella? Easy 13 is here to help.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>What's new?</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The name says it all: Easy 13 is my attempt at making Lucky 13 much easier to print and assemble. Here are some of the improvements you'll see:</p><ul><li><strong>Easier printing: </strong>Parts have been redesigned to avoid tiny tough-to-print areas. And for extra peace of mind, part sets are provided with optional “runners” that improve adhesion while being easier to remove than standard brims.</li><li><strong>Simpler design: </strong>The total part count is greatly reduced by doing away with the internal skeleton - I think you'll find that the new combined parts are even easier to customize!</li><li><strong>Stress-free assembly: </strong>Joint connections have been redesigned from the ground up to avoid stresses that often ended up breaking parts in the original model.</li><li><strong>Extra flexibility: </strong>Lucky 13 was already a yoga master, but Easy goes even farther! Check out those wiggly toes!</li><li><strong>Backwards compatibility:</strong> Easy 13 uses the same size ball joints as Lucky and Mini, as well as the same size hands. No need to adjust your favorite head and accessory remixes!</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Printing guide</h3><p>The part files come in three formats, so pick the one that works for you.</p><ul><li><strong>Individual parts </strong>gives you each part as a separate STL for you to arrange and print how you like. If a file says “2x” or “4x,” make sure you print that many.</li><li><strong>Plated parts</strong> gives you everything you need in two files - just print both of them and you're good to go.</li><li><strong>Parts runners</strong> are the same as the plated parts, but with an added “runner” to help keep small parts from detaching from the bed. Print both files, and then snip the parts out using a hobby knife or flush cutter.</li></ul><h4>Print settings</h4><p>These are the settings I like to use - I recommend starting here and then dialing in if necessary. This is for 100% scale and a 0.4mm nozzle.</p><ul><li><strong>Material: ASA or PETG.</strong> (PLA is <i>okay</i> but you can expect your figure to go “limp” not long after printing. It can also be tougher to assemble. On the other hand, the small size of the parts means that warping is less of a concern, so this can actually be a pretty easy print with ASA even without an enclosure.)</li><li><strong>Layer height: 0.15mm</strong> (first layer 0.2mm)</li><li><strong>20-30%</strong> <strong>infill</strong> (I like rectilinear for this)</li><li><strong>Slow down</strong> the first layer for better adhesion (~25% of default speed)</li><li><strong>0.2mm elephant foot compensation</strong> (for better-fitting ball joints)</li><li><strong>Print external perimeters first</strong> (this is especially important if printing the parts on runners - it keeps everything together on the first layer.)</li><li><strong>No supports needed!</strong></li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Assembly guide</h3><p>The video and images below show how to assemble the figure.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>All parts should snap or slide snugly into place - no tools needed! If something feels too tight, check that you have the right orientation before forcing it, and consider lightly sanding or filing things down.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRzzL2JqQjk"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WRzzL2JqQjk" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/555170/rich_content/11618ff7-f1b8-4472-9610-9b8e290726d0/thumbs/cover/800x450/png/slide1.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/555170/rich_content/37c32518-011a-405a-8eed-2fc77a32373d/thumbs/cover/800x450/png/slide2.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/555170/rich_content/9434549e-ecc3-4e7a-aea3-3cc3fad1eb22/thumbs/cover/800x450/png/slide3.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/555170/rich_content/3902867c-68d2-4c8d-90d4-ce2e0b4504c1/thumbs/cover/800x450/png/slide4.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/555170/rich_content/78d8a4ef-a9da-47a3-a0b3-6855e4d20ca2/thumbs/cover/800x450/png/slide5.webp"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h4>Customizing</h4><p>You'll notice that Easy 13 doesn't come with any accessories. That's because it's fully compatible with any handheld accessories for Lucky 13 and Mini 13. Check out Lucky 13's <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/148367-lucky-13-printable-jointed-figure/remixes" rel="nofollow noopener">remix page</a> and grab whatever catches your eye!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>(Please note that I haven't vetted every single existing remix for compatibility. Most remixes that consist of an alternate head or a <strong>handheld</strong> accessory should be compatible. Alternate armors/"skins" will probably not be compatible without replacing entire body parts.)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>You can find a compatible display base <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/563861-lucky-13-display-base-20" rel="nofollow noopener">here.</a></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>…And of course you are absolutely encouraged to remix Easy 13 for yourself however you see fit! The simple body shapes are meant to be a jumping-off point for your creativity to shine.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>More tips</h3><ul><li>Easy 13 is about 13cm or 5.2 inches tall when printed at the default scale.</li><li>Printing a lot of small parts can be tricky. In my experience, the best way to keep prints from coming off the bed is to <strong>s l o w d o w n</strong> the first layer print speed!</li><li>You can also try adding a brim, printing parts one at a time, and increasing the scale of the parts.</li><li>The joints will inevitably get looser over time due to wear and the plastic relaxing. One solution is to disassemble the joint and apply a thin coat of super glue or clear nail polish to one side. Let it dry completely, then reassemble.</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Enjoy!</h3><p>I hope you have a great time with Easy 13. If you enjoyed this print, please consider making a donation <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?business=65FUQ2SJMYDDS&no_recurring=0&item_name=Thanks+for+supporting+Lucky+13%21&currency_code=USD" rel="nofollow noopener">here.</a></p>

EASY 13 Printable Jointed Figure

Vinrisa

<p><strong>READ BEFORE PRINTING!</strong></p><p><i>This is a non-commercial print, this means you are not allowed to sell files or prints of this model.</i></p><p><i>______________________________________________________________________________________</i></p><h3><strong>What is this?</strong></h3><p>This is my fifth attempt on creating a mechanical tally counter.</p><p>It's adjusted so anyone with a reasonably dialed in (FDM)3D-printer will be able to print it. There are some non-printable parts but they should be easy to find at home, in any hardware store or as in my case, the grocery store.</p><p>I said earlier that I wouldn't continue developing this project... I was wrong. I found far too many ways to improve on the v.4 design to ignore it. Version 5 is based on the v.4 mechanism, but a lot more compact and easier to assemble, as seen in the pictures.</p><p>The key added in this project is also works for version 4!<br>______________________________________________________________________________________</p><h3><strong>Videos and assembly instructions:</strong></h3><p><strong>A PDF assembly-instruction can be found among the download files</strong>. The key works both as a tool to screw together/apart the case, as well as a crank to reset the dial to any number.</p><p><strong>Assembly instructions and demo (Animation):</strong></p><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/fHxMHOnwhCA"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fHxMHOnwhCA" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><p><strong>How to use the counter:</strong></p><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/akFbnj04CRA"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/akFbnj04CRA" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><p><br>______________________________________________________________________________________</p><h3><strong>Print Instructions</strong></h3><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>Print all components in the <strong>default orientation</strong> to minimize support and maximize part strength.<br> </li><li><strong>Don't use raft</strong>, Rafts tend to give the bottom surface a rough surface fininsh. It can mess up the tolerances, which will/can make the mechanism "sticky".<br>If I have problems with bed adhesion, I always use a brim! Just make sure the brim is entirely removed.<br> </li><li><strong>Support materals are only required on "second-digit-dial"</strong>, I wouldn't recommend using support materials on any other part, especially not the Back Case. It shouldn't be neccecary as all other parts are designed with either "bridges" or a 45 degree overhang.<br> </li><li>"first-digit-dial" and "second-digit-dial" are designed to be layered with two different filament colors, it isn't required but it makes the digits "pop" a lot more. The same goes for "Left-Button", "Right-Button" and "Front-Cover". See the pictures and videos for inspiration.<br> </li><li>Make sure to break loose the screw on the "back-cover" before assembly. This part can partially fuse with the rest of the back-cover.<br> </li><li><strong>Clean all printed parts</strong> from brims, support material, uneven surfaces etc! The tolerances in this project are quite lenient, but major flaws might still make the mechanism "sticky".</li></ul><p>______________________________________________________________________________________</p><h3><strong>PART LIST (BOM)</strong></h3><p><strong>PRINTED PARTS:</strong></p><ul><li><strong>1x</strong> left-button</li><li><strong>1x</strong> right-button</li><li><strong>1x</strong> left-button-arm</li><li><strong>1x</strong> right-button-arm</li><li><strong>1x</strong> front-cover</li><li><strong>1x </strong>back-cover</li><li><strong>1x</strong> ratchet-wheel</li><li><strong>1x</strong> ratchet-wheel-cap</li><li><strong>1x</strong> pin</li><li><strong>1x</strong> 4-tooth-partial-gear</li><li><strong>1x</strong> gear-lock-ring</li><li><strong>1x</strong> first-digit-gear</li><li><strong>1x</strong> second-digit-dial</li><li><strong>1x</strong> first-digit-dial</li><li><strong>1x</strong> key</li></ul><p><strong>NON-PRINTED PARTS:</strong></p><ul><li><strong>3x</strong> The tip spring of a pen (one for each button and one for the pin).</li><li><strong>1x</strong> Small rubber band(approx. 120-140mm long), this rubber band should be small enough to be in tension when hooked on the button arms. However, a too short rubber band might not allow the arms to fold properly. It should be possible to cut a longer rubber band and tie the ends together to adjust the length, although, I haven't tried it.</li></ul><p>______________________________________________________________________________________</p><h3><strong>Troubleshooting:</strong></h3><p><strong>Heres a list of problems and some possible solutions.</strong> If your problem isn't in the list please let me know what the problem is so I (depending on the problem) can add it.</p><ul><li><strong>Problem:</strong> My buttons stick when I press them down.</li></ul><ol><li>Clean your prints from any brims etc. No movable parts should have any significant friction.</li><li>The pen springs you used might be too weak.</li><li>Loosen the screw on the back of the back case, you might have over tightened it.<br> </li></ol><ul><li><strong>Problem:</strong> My buttons are loose.</li></ul><ol><li>The pen springs you used are too short, they should be over 23 mm long in order to be slightly pre-tensioned.<br> </li></ol><ul><li><strong>Problem:</strong> The Dials move but doesnt align with the window on the front case.</li></ul><ol><li>Make sure you followed the dial assembly step correctly.</li><li>Clean your prints from any brims etc loosen the screw, and make sure all parts are pushed together correctly.</li><li>The pin spring is too weak, try swapping it with another spring or a longer spring piece.<br> </li></ol><ul><li><strong>Problem:</strong> The first digit dial turns when I press down the button, but turns back again when I release the button.</li></ul><ol><li>The rubber band is way too strong. The ratchet arms doesn't fold on their way back, which means the pin slips. Change to a rubber band which is barely in tension when assembled.<br> </li></ol><ul><li><strong>Problem:</strong> The mechanism is sticky specifically when the second digit dial is supposed to turn. (e.g. from 19 to 20).</li></ul><ol><li>The 4 Tooth Partial Gear and Gear Lock Ring isn't pushed all the way down. The lock ring is supposed to be flush with the end of the gear axis, and the gear shouldn't be too loose while still being able to spin.</li></ol><p><br> ______________________________________________________________________________________</p><h3><strong>Updates:</strong></h3><ul><li>2022-09-02: “<strong>Front cover (without pattern)</strong>” <strong>added</strong> due to some people having issues with the pattern shifting or bad bed adhesion.</li></ul>

random

caterpillar

13

counters