0805wilson

LayerModels

<h4>Create your own name in 3D!</h4>The file contains the complete alphabet in the standard font. Print the letters you need and snap them together. Don't forget to print the endcaps to complete your nametag.You can even use the letters to print your own message or slogan.&nbsp;Other fonts are available <a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/LayerModels/3d-letters" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/LayerModels/3d-letters" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/364477/rich_content/68da15ea-d698-41a1-8dbf-c369975fbdd6/thumbs/cover/800x1208/png/overview-fonts.webp"></a>If you like my work please consider supporting me by downloading one of these cool fonts for less than the price of a coffee, thanks!&nbsp;Print settings&nbsp;The 3D letters were tested in PLA with 0.2mm layer height. Print in the given orientation and no support is needed. Ensure a good first layer adhesion with sufficient bed temperature and slow first layer speed. Avoid elephant footing.&nbsp;----------&nbsp;Subscribe to <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/LayerModels" rel="nofollow noopener">my patreon</a> if you are interested in a license to sell your prints commercialyFollow me on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/layermodels/" rel="nofollow noopener">instagram</a> to stay up to date with my latest 3D Models

3D Name from letters - Standard font

kids

Art Design. 3D

Hey there,&nbsp;the Pegboard Drawer #2 are here!&nbsp;If you like the model, I would appreciate it if you could take the time to like, follow, or boost it. That helps me continue to create great models for you. Thank you very much in advance.&nbsp;A simple drawer with removable compartments. In my print profile, as can be seen in the pictures above, there are three different versions of the box. The size of the box is 79mm in height and width, and 60mm in depth.If you like these boxes, let me know, and more will follow.&nbsp;IMPORTANT:You need 1 of my SKÅDIS (Universal) Holders, which you can find !!!<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/174221#profileId-191522" rel="nofollow noopener">HERE</a>!!!<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/174221#profileId-191522" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/174221#profileId-191522</a>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/500422#profileId-415384" rel="nofollow noopener">Pegboard Drawer #1</a><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/500422#profileId-415384" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000501698/design/2024-06-19_6e0ff93d52f02.jpg"></a></figure>For more designs and Holders check out my<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@BigKev" rel="nofollow noopener"> !!!COLLECTION!!!</a>&nbsp;If you like my work and want to support me you can buy me a coffee<a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/ArtDesign3D" rel="nofollow noopener"> HERE</a>If you have any special requirements and need it personalized: just hit me up, I´ll try my best to design it for you.&nbsp;Happy printing!

Pegboard Drawer #2

skadis

fireboy02

Perfect DND Dice tower for all types of board games. Supports the D20 dice as well as many other dice!&nbsp;No supports needed 2 wall lines15% supportive cubic infill

Castle Dice Tower

sometime

shawn.mek

My son requested some wolverine claws, and since I had just printed a print in place spring box I was like ‘I bet we could make some claws spring loaded!’&nbsp;Famous last words…&nbsp;Fortunately (or unfortunately?) the spring idea proof of concept worked immediately:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-13_5780d7bc20069.gif">&nbsp;So we were off! And then a billion iterations later, we get to this first release version.&nbsp;It's a bit tricky to assemble, but I'll try to get some how to's in the future if needed. Please leave feedback on what I might do to enhance it - or let me know points of failure that I can strengthen.&nbsp;Thanks!&nbsp;For Assembly, you may want to watch this youtube where Uncle Jessy successfully assembles it (<a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/PM3DsiuDIDw?si=Ku4l55NfCI200hou" rel="nofollow noopener">https://youtu.be/PM3DsiuDIDw?si=Ku4l55NfCI200hou</a>). &nbsp;HAND STRAP - This was for my son, and I actually tried using the Polycam photogrammetry app on my phone to 3D scan his hand, and then made the strap using that :). It worked suprisingly well for HIS hand. I scaled up the strap for bigger hands, but you can also cut or delete a piece to make it bend and fit different sizes.&nbsp;&nbsp;ASSEMBLY&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_a7a31b9c9d4a4.jpg">&nbsp;The brake.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_2e8e8b3f94888.jpg">Stick the ‘trigger’ down through the brake sideways and then turn it (somewhat gently, don't break :))<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_034ac41c92e4e.jpg">&nbsp;Put the springs into the brake<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_23fc35f069994.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_0a283aa1fd7bc.jpg">&nbsp;TRICKY PART -No to putting the brake on this way (it won't have enough space to release):<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_ecf791bfd8bc5.jpg">Put it on the other side (I've never had to glue, but tolerances may necessitate that - the mechanism itself actually holds it together pretty well regardless), and then stretch/pull it over to the front (the springs will now have arm length and springiness for the brake mechanism):<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_d14067333d86c.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_1106349f4ddcc.jpg">Now put the claws through while holding the brake out of the way. Depending on tolerances you may need to move the claws in and out of the guides to break it in:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_1479d7245892c.jpg">Snap the springs into claws and top plate, and then top plate into bottom plate:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_0c259e60d24bd.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_a30a3d439e271.jpg">Pull down brake and pull out claws, slip strap around extended claw spring and onto the assembly:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_d40f2a0eb72e9.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_0233270d2b7b3.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_aebe1855448f5.jpg">&nbsp;&nbsp;

Wolverine Claws - Retractable, Spring-loaded, Trigger (No extra non printed parts needed)

wait

Julia Ebert

This is a big toy human figure that's inspired by a Lego minifigure. I spent a lot of time making this model from scratch to match the original design while making tweaks for tolerances, printability, and strength. While there were a number of minifigure models I found online, most were not designed for printing, which is a particular challenge for the leg, arm, and hand joints. I'm particularly proud of the universal clip I designed for these, which makes for easy assembly and stiff-enough joints to pose your figure.I designed the clips and tolerances for this model to be printed at 100% (10x original Lego scale), but people have previously had success printing my <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/78695-mega-lego-like-skeleton-101-scale" rel="nofollow">10x Lego-like skeleton</a> at smaller scales (eg, 50% or 5x Lego-scale).Now that I have a base model for a Lego-like figure, this opens up a host of options for specific Lego-like figures. If there's something particular you're interested in, leave a comment or send me a message! If you want to make your own modifications, I've included STEP files for all parts (just be sure to give credit for my original design).Fully assembled, this model stands 40 cm (~16 inches) tall. I printed mine with Hatchbox true blue PLA, Hatchbox true red PLA, and Prusament mango yellow PETG.<h4>Printing Instructions</h4>I've included 3MF files for all parts, and parts should import correctly oriented for printing.<ul><li>For PrusaSlicer 2.6+: you just need to load the project file. (This makes use of organic supports, for the legs, which are added with PrusaSlicer 2.6.)</li><li>For other slicers: I've included details about special instructions for all parts, so you should be able to replicate anything necessary for proper printing. Except where otherwise noted, I printed parts in PLA at 0.15mm layer height with 7% cubic infill and without supports.</li></ul>You will need to print:<ul><li><code>32x-connector-pins.3mf</code>: You should need 30 pins for assembly (or 26 if you print the solid head); this has 2 extra just in case. If you have trouble with bed adhesion, add a brim</li></ul><h5>Legs</h5><ul><li><code>legs.3mf</code>: Uses tree supports the top of the lower hole on the leg.</li><li><code>hips.3mf</code></li><li><code>2x-limb-clips.3mf</code>: This file contains two clips. You'll need to print one set of two in the arm/body color, and one set in the leg color. Important: I recommend printing this in PETG or ABS with 25% infill, because it will have to flex and PLA might snap.</li></ul><h5>Body</h5><ul><li><code>arms.3mf</code>: These print with a small surface area on the bed (the wrists), so you might want to add a brim if you have trouble with bed adhesion.</li><li><code>body.3mf</code></li><li><code>2x-limb-clips.3mf</code>: This file contains two clips. You'll need to print one set of two in the arm/body color, and one set in the leg color. Important: I recommend printing this in PETG or ABS with 25% infill, because it will have to flex and PLA might snap.</li></ul><h5>Head & hands</h5><ul><li><code>2x-hands-wrists.3mf</code>: Requires supports on the underside of the wrist clip. Like the limb clips, I recommend printing with PETG (or similar) with 25% infill.</li><li>One of: (all require supports on the underside curve of the head)<ul><li><code>head-face-mmu.3mf</code>: Print the head & face as one part with some sort of multi-material printer (e.g., Prusa MMU or Bambu AMS). Use supports on the underside curve of the head.</li><li><code>split-head.3mf</code> and <code>face.3mf</code>: Print the head (with cutouts) in two pieces. Use pins and glue to connect the halves. Print the face separately and glue it in.</li><li><code>solid-head.3mf</code> and <code>face.3mf</code>: Print the head and face as separate prints. Use supports on the underside curve of the head. Then glue the face parts into the head.</li></ul></li></ul><h4>Assembly Instructions</h4>In addition to the printed parts, you will need cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue/superglue). <h5>Legs</h5><ol><li>Glue the pins into the top of the hip. Add glue to the holes and bottom surface of each of the hip pegs and attach. Important: The slope of each hip peg should be facing out to the sides. If the pins don't want to go together, check that you have this orientation right!</li><li>Use the same gluing approach to attach the limb clips to each side of the hips.</li><li>Gently but firmly press each leg onto the clips. It should snap into place. The hips are symmetric, so you can't put the legs on backwards. This requires a fair bit of force, but you shouldn't need a hammer. If it won't go on, slightly sand or file down the outer head of the limb clip (rather than the inside of the hole on the leg). Warning: The clips are not designed to come out once they're attached, so make sure you're ready.</li></ol><h5>Body</h5><ol><li>Glue the limb clips into each arm, like you did for the legs.</li><li>Glue the wrist onto the hand, with the pins. Because of the relative print orientations here, it's best to use a bit more glue here to make sure it stays on.</li><li>Press each wrist clip into the arm. (They're the same, so you can't put in the wrong hand.)</li><li>Press each arm clip into the body. The body is also symmetric, so you can't put the arms on backwards.</li></ol><h5>Head</h5>If you printed the separate head and face pieces, glue the face pieces into the head. You may need to file or sand some of the face pieces to fit, depending on how well the supports worked.<h4>License Note</h4>This model is marked as non-commercial because I don't want anyone (including myself) having Lego come after them with a lawyer. If you choose to sell prints of this model, you do so at your own risk!

Mega Lego-like Minifigure (10:1 scale)

lego

Encrust3d

Test your bed adhesion along with calibrating your printer with the stackable calicat. 20x20mm body, 45 degree angles, no supports needed when printing. Prints in 22 minutes with ABL. Stack your calicats after printing. Remixed in tinkercad.

Stackable Calicat - Calibration Cat

stack stuff

ButtalaBuild

The POOP delivery systemis designed to dispose of the purge automatically. There will be another modular system which can be used together with this in print farms in a fully automated manner.&nbsp;A few parts needs to be glued together, such as the shield or the motor mount.&nbsp;The design is still in the development phase, optical adjustments can still follow.&nbsp;There will be soon a new version with a Hardware kit for it. im developing my own hardware kit since Bambulab does not respond :)follow me on TikTok or Instagram for update&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/buttalabuild/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.instagram.com/buttalabuild/</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@buttalabuild" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.tiktok.com/@buttalabuild</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Option A:<ul><li>N20 12V Motor</li><li>12V or 9V Powersupply </li><li>Endstop switch</li></ul><ul><li>Smartphone charger works aswell with an N20 6V 30 - 150 PRM</li></ul>Option B:&nbsp;required parts:<ul><li>Arduino Uno (or other boards)</li><li>Endstop switch</li><li>LEDs (Red and Green)</li><li>N20 12V Motor</li><li>voltage regulator DC/DC</li><li>12V or 9V Powersupply</li><li>wires</li><li>4x M4x45 DIN 912</li><li>IRF520NPbF MOSFET</li><li>10k Ohm Resistor</li></ul>Equipment:<ul><li>Soldering station</li><li>multimeter</li></ul>CODE:&nbsp;// Pin-Nummern für den Endschalter, Motor und LEDsconst int endstopPin = 2; // Endschalter an Pin 2const int motorPin = 9; // Motor an Pin 9const int led1Pin = 4; // LED 1 an Pin 6const int led2Pin = 7; // LED 2 an Pin 7  bool endstopPressed = false; // Variable zur Verfolgung des Endschalterstatusunsigned long lastActivationTime = 0; // Zeitpunkt der letzten Aktivierung des Endschaltersconst unsigned long debounceDelay = 200; // Entprellzeit in Millisekunden  void setup() {pinMode(endstopPin, INPUT_PULLUP); // Endschalter als Eingang mit Pull-Up-WiderstandpinMode(motorPin, OUTPUT); // Motor als AusgangpinMode(led1Pin, OUTPUT); // LED 1 als AusgangpinMode(led2Pin, OUTPUT); // LED 2 als Ausgang&nbsp;// LED 1 einschaltendigitalWrite(led1Pin, HIGH);}  void loop() {// Wenn der Endschalter betätigt wird und dies das erste Mal istif (digitalRead(endstopPin) == LOW &amp;&amp; !endstopPressed &amp;&amp; millis() - lastActivationTime &gt; debounceDelay) {endstopPressed = true; // Endschalter wurde betätigtlastActivationTime = millis(); // Zeitpunkt der letzten Aktivierung speicherndelay(500); // 20 Sekunden warten&nbsp;// Motor für 10 Sekunden einschaltendigitalWrite(motorPin, HIGH); // Motor einschaltendigitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW); // LED 1 ausschaltendigitalWrite(led2Pin, HIGH); // LED 2 einschaltendelay(20000); // 10 Sekunden warten&nbsp;// Motor ausschaltendigitalWrite(motorPin, LOW); // Motor ausschalten&nbsp;// LED 2 ausschaltendigitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);&nbsp;// LED 1 wieder einschaltendigitalWrite(led1Pin, HIGH);&nbsp;// Warten, bis der Endschalter losgelassen wirdwhile (digitalRead(endstopPin) == LOW) {// Warten auf Loslassen des Endschalters}&nbsp;// Zurücksetzen des Endschalterstatus nach 20 Sekundendelay(500);endstopPressed = false;}}

The POOP delivery system

project

NoycePrints

The second model in my watch stand series. Like my other designs, I tried to incorporate an “industrial” theme into these stands. They look especially good with G-SHOCK branded watches however I'm sure they will suit others. Incorporated are optional strap tensioners for those with large wrists/ straps. Simply tighten or loosen the M3 screws to adjust the tensioner. These stands look great with the optional M3 countersunk washers, however button head screws will work just fine on their own if you prefer.&nbsp;Assembly TipPrint at 25% gyroid infill for a good level of strength.Add a little glue to the guide notches on cradle part B. This will help prevent the cradles from moving when removing/ displaying your watches. &nbsp;Screws required to complete:4 M3x14mm countersunk or button head screws to attach the watch cradles to the center connector.2 M3x10mm countersunk or button head screws to attach the center connector to the backplate. 2 M3x12mm countersunk or button head screws to attach the backplate to the base. 2 M3x10mm countersunk or button head screws to lock cradle parts A and B together. 2 M3x8mm screws for the optional Strap tensioners.* These are recommended, you may get away with slightly longer or shorter screws depending on the stand parts.