I was recently asked by one of my followers if I could share some tips on designing and publishing models so here are my top ten tips: 1: My first tip is just to design models. It doesn't matter what software you use or if it looks like trash just design models, practice makes perfect.2: Don't sweat about equipment. All you really need is a pc, the camera on your phone, and a printer.3: Once you have made a few models, experiment with different trends and model types. The Creator Center is a great place to find inspiration and learn what's trending.4: Once you find a topic/trend of model you like or is popular, make models that fit within that theme. It's fine if you make models that differ from that theme, Make sure to have fun.5: Tags. I cannot stress their importance enough, with the right tags your model will get TONS of views. When putting in tags make sure to put lots that fit your model or the theme.6: Pictures. Make sure you have Real photos of the final product. Only put Real print photos of your model as the thumbnail. I see lots of models where it's just screenshots of the model in Bambu Studio, or Tinkercad, Or Orca Slicer you get the idea. Make sure your photos are taken in good light without much in the background to distract from the model. Good lighting is critical.7: Editing. I use editing software like ClipChamp and Designer to crop my pictures and add text to them.8: Ignore mean people. This is the internet. There Will  be haters, like it or not we're stuck with them. Just remember all the good. For instance: that guy who left a good review, or that time you got a Boost, or that really encouraging comment.9: Don't forget to go outside and touch grass every once in a while. Mental health is important.10: Remember that there is a God who loves you and cares for you. It doesn't matter what people think of your models, it doesn't matter whether you're getting points or not, God loves you just as you are.Shout-out to @PrintRevs5Star for suggesting I make this article! they're just getting into making models so take a look at their models!

Slicers for 3D printing are much more powerful than you might realize. There are quite a lot of features that can come in handy for many situations and the one I want to do in-depth for is Print by Object.  Print by Object is one feature that I constantly use for my print profiles on MakerWorld. Normally, our 3D printers print all parts on a plate at the same time, layer by layer. Print by Object allows your printer to print parts one at a time, while still having all the parts on the same plate. All my examples are with Bambu Studio, but should work similarly for other slicers. Here’s an example of the standard “layer by layer”: All three cubes would be printed at the same time, which would require many many filament swaps. The normal, smart route would be to put each part on a different plate, requiring one filament swap between each plate. While this does work well, you’ll need to clear the plate and start the next one manually. This is where Print by Object can come in handy. To get started with this, customizing the plate gets you to the Plate Settings, where you can change the Print Sequence from “Same as Global Print Sequence” to “By Object" After changing this setting, you’ll notice an immediate difference on the build plate. Every part will now a border around it and you’ll likely see a red warning that parts are too close together: The reason for this is that Print by Object requires room around each part so that the printhead doesn’t collide with any already printed parts. Each printer has a differently sized printhead, so the border around parts will change in size when changing printers. To properly space the parts to make sure their boundaries don’t collide, you can use Auto-Arrange. When all of the boundaries are clear of each other, they’ll disappear along with any warnings. You can drag around the parts to see the boundaries, here’s what they look like when not colliding: Now, these three parts can be printed, one at a time, with minimal filament swaps, while still staying on one plate. You can extend this further by merging several parts that are the same color so that the slicer treats them as one part. This is very handy for my model kits where I tend to use two or three colors:With all the gray parts merged and all the red parts merged, the printer will print all the gray parts at once, layer by layer, before switching to printing all the red parts at once, layer by layer. So as you can tell, Print by Object can be very convenient in the right circumstances. There are some caveats and specifics to watch out for when using though; I’ll lay them out here. As mentioned earlier, different printers have different printheads, so the boundary around parts is not always the same. Because of this, uploading Print by Object profiles to MakerWorld generally requires that you upload a different profile for each printer (printers with identical printheads can be grouped together). I tend to upload the following Print by Object profiles: A1 + A1 mini, X1 + P1, H2S, H2D + H2C, P2S, and X2D. There is also a height limitation for this feature. When using more than 2 parts with Print by Object, they must be under a certain height, which you can see in the purple bounding box around the plate:Moving one of the parts to another plate is generally the way to fix this. The last consideration is plate size, because each part has a boundary, a lot of the plate is ‘unused’ and you can’t fit as much as you normally would. Smaller printers like the A1 mini also may have a tougher time fitting all the parts on compared to a printer like the H2S. One ‘trick’ to make more room though, is to place parts in the corners. The boundary around parts can extend past the plate and by placing parts in the corner you’ll have more room for parts. Overall, you can see how helpful Print by Object can be to save you time and filament swaps for certain situations. I use this feature quite a lot on my models and many users have let me know that they prefer profiles that use it, so maybe it’s something that can help with your models as well. Hopefully this is a helpful feature for you! Please let me know if you have any questions or comments and if there’s a feature you’d like me to write about next!

Hey all! With the latest improvements in 3D printing, wasteless multi-color 3D printing is becoming more accessible than ever and so I've put together this guide on tips, tricks, and considerations for designing multi-color/material 3D models. I'm using the Bambu Lab H2C, Bambu Studio, and FreeCAD for this guide and its images. Slicer Painting Tips and TricksJust like we've done previously, we can paint our models in Bambu Studio using the Color Painting Tool:  Inside this tool, the best 'brush' to use is the Fill - Edge Detection. It allows you to hover over a section of the model and paint it to a color in one click.  You can see that the Fill tool painted a whole section that wasn't just one face, but a series of faces that had soft angles between them. You can make the fill more discerning by decreasing the "Smart Fill Angle" or make it select more by increasing that same value. Below, you can see that a low "Smart Fill Angle" selects just the one face, while a higher value selects the whole shoulder.  Sometimes, when I don't want to fill a whole face or the Fill tool isn't accurate enough, the Triangle tool is my next choice. It colors in a single face of the model like so: Multi-Body DesignIf you've designed models for multi-color before, you may have noticed that painting it in the slicer can be a bit tedious or that sometimes the way the slicer handles the painting isn't ideal.Here's an example of a simple paint that has an unsuitable overhang:  You can see that instead of full regular bridges, the left and right of the underside has floating overhangs.So instead of painting the model, I've made this design a multi-body model, where each part of the robot is a different body.  With this multi-body model, instead of painting, I can change the filament for one of the sub-bodies like so:  The painted model and the filament-changed model look the same in the slicer, but take a look at how they slice:  You can see the right model has clean straight bridges and won't have any drooping filament when it's printed. This is kind of 'painting' is much easier to do as well, if you've designed your model to be multi-body. You can go to the Objects tab in the left sidebar and right-click any sub-body to change it's filament:  There is one thing to note with this method, and it's that the order of the bodies within the model is important. The slicer goes top-down and 'creates' the first body, then 'creates' the next body. If the next body intersects with the first body, the first body will have the next body cut out of it. This repeats down the line, so the lower on the list a body is, the later it's 'created' and conversely the higher bodies on the list will have the negative shape of every other body cut out from it.This is important, because to achieve proper bridges and avoid other issues, certain bodies need to be lower on the list. In my example above, the 'waist' body needs to be one of the last ones, after the legs, to allow the bridges to be properly made. Fortunately, we can combine both types of painting at the same time! So you can block out a model and have its major parts painted by changing the filament of the body and then have details hand-painted in. So now you know why multi-body design is useful, but how can you do it?Creating Multi-Body DesignsI use FreeCAD for most of my designs, but most CAD software can export as a .STEP file. Exporting multiple bodies into one .STEP file will keep all those bodies relative to each other in space, but behave as one object in the slicer. You'll be able to go into the Objects tab again and see and work with the sub-bodies of the model.  If you use Blender, worry not, as you can do the same thing by exporting multiple bodies as a .3MF file. This can brought into Bambu Studio just the same with the result being the same as a multi-body .STEP file. Here's an example of a multi-body .3MF file that I've made using Gravity Sketch VR.  Hopefully this is a bit enlightening on how to approach multi-color design, and if you have any questions or comments, please let me know! Thanks all!

1,000 Followers – Thank YouRecently I passed 1,000 followers on MakerWorld. So first of all, a big thank you to each and every one of you. 🎉To give something back, I thought I’d share a bit of behind the scenes from my current photography setup, along with some thoughts on what to do and what to avoid.A “Studio” Built on Limited TimeI am a father of two young kids. The little “off time” I have, I spend creating 3D models and taking photos. Needless to say, I do not have a dedicated space for either. My only printer, a P2S, sits in the basement.So I needed a setup that is quick to set up and just as quick to tear down. The need for speed mostly comes from the very narrow window between the kids falling asleep and me spontaneously falling unconscious due to prolonged sleep deprivation. A very reliable daily routine. Think I'm joking…well on todays photo session I had an assistant:I have to have a word with his superior though because he kept snoozing away on the job. Why I Don’t Use a Light TentI decided against using a photography tent. I do have one, but I don’t use it anymore. It is too tedious to set up and, once it is up, not flexible enough for the shots I want. Back in the days I used my tent mainly for photographing rocket models for Etsy. The sterile environment of a tent was perfect for that. Sterile as long as no cat comes along that is…   The most common print volume is 256 × 256 × 256 mm. I do not design models that fill that space, and I don’t plan to, but it is the general upper limit. My dual charger Bonsai planter comes in just under 250 mm, which already pushes smaller setups to their limits.So I wanted something that could comfortably handle larger models. I ended up with a simple backdrop setup. Two 60 × 60 cm boards and a set of interchangeable sheets. The boards are double sided with textures like wood and brick. The sheets range from marble and concrete to plain colors.This gives me a lot of flexibility, both for the background and for the “floor” the model stands on.For the Bonsai, I used a dark wooden base with a light concrete background. Why yes, that is a pack of lasagna sheets I propped up my shades on. Thanks for asking.Separating the Model from the BackgroundAs a rule of thumb, you want to separate your model from the background. No distracting elements intersecting with it.Contrast helps a lot. A dark model in front of a dark background loses detail, and the other way around.You can also blur the background. This can be done with expensive lenses or with pretty much any modern smartphone using portrait mode. Honestly, phones have become so good that you can get excellent results with just a phone and some decent lighting.A much simpler trick is distance. Do not place your model directly against a wall or backdrop.Give it space.If possible, place it near the edge of a table and shoot slightly into the room instead of straight at a wall. This creates natural depth. The background falls away, becomes softer, and looks less staged. It also separates your model nicely without needing expensive gear.That said, I enjoy photography and make consistently questionable financial decisions. Ask my wife. So I use a proper camera setup: Sony A7V with a 24–70 mm f2.8 GM II and a 90 mm macro.Be informed though, the next photo of my camera was taken with my phone. Which feels a bit disrespectful. Light. Probably the Most Important ThingLight is everything. The more control you have, the more flexibility you get.I use two LED panels for fill light and a small spotlight for more creative use. The panels are simple 12 W LED lights with adjustable color temperature and built-in batteries. Nothing fancy, but they do the job.One light sits in the front, slightly to the left or right. The other sits on the opposite side, a bit lower and closer to the model. This gives even light from the front while the side light adds some contrast along edges.You can get very similar results by placing your model next to a window.If you include lamps or other light sources in your shot, dim them. Otherwise you will need a lot of light from the front to balance things out. Without that, your camera will darken the whole image and question your life choices.Adding Depth With LightFor the spotlight, I use a small handheld LED with interchangeable pattern plates. These cast distinct shadows when placed in front of the light.They mimic things like sunlight coming through window blinds. It is an easy way to add some subtle detail in the background and create lines that lead the eye toward the model. . Props and My Very Unfortunate Relationship with PlantsFor background decoration, I try to match the theme. If it is something you would place in a living room, like a charger, I might add some greenery.That said, I have what you could call a very brown thumb. I am not even sure if that is a real saying, but it should be. Plants tend to die when I enter the room, sometimes out of principle.So all of mine are fake. Thanks, IKEA. On AI, Renders, and Other Things That Bother Me SlightlyI don’t use AI for my images. At least that is what I would like to say.The amount of AI-generated content in both models and photos is impressive, but also a bit discouraging. Some of the most popular model pages are filled with it and still collect hundreds or thousands of likes.I am also not a big fan of renders. As a user, I want to see an actual printed object from a real printer like mine.So why can’t I say I don’t use AI?Because sometimes my setup ends a few centimeters too early and I get things in the frame that I don’t want. Wallpaper. Random household items. Diapers. Did I mention the whole setup sits on a baby changing station?  In those cases, I sometimes use AI to extend the edges of an image. But only to expand what is already there. Never to generate content that does not exist in real life.  Final ImageLooking good? I think I like it. However on the landscape shot I missed focus, forgot to close the aperture and ended up with a blurry photo. I didn't check the images before tearing down the setup, sleep deprivation is no joke. Oh well, time to set it up again tomorrow…🤡 Feel free to ask for more details or advice. I will do my best to answer. Best Adrian

How often does this situation happen to you? The printer has printed half of the model. The model's bottom lifts off the print bed - warping. We need to trash the whole model. Large prints tend to warp, like furniture parts. When we make 3D-printed tools and add more wall layers to make them stronger, they sometimes warp. You can see how warping looks and where it occurs in the image below.  In our first Bambu Lab flagstore, you can see and experience the massive CyberBrick diorama (see the image below). It simulates the futuristic city landscape. The diorama's case is built with many identical blocks. We use it for installing a power supply system. The diorama's base is wide and tall.  During printing, when the bottom warps, it lifts off the print bed and changes shape. This makes the surface of the printed layer get closer to the nozzle. It may cause the nozzle to scratch into the printed layer, leaving ridges and making the surface look bad. On top of that, warping may also weaken how strongly the bottom grips the print bed. In the worst case, the print starts peeling off the print bed, causing a failure. The left image below shows that the bottom edge curls up and changes shape. The right image below shows scratches on the surface of the curled corner. This damage causes the layer to peel off.  Like many other designers and 3D printing hobbyists, warping must have bothered you, too. What makes warping happen?Let's start with the filament: the extruded filament shrinks as it cools, getting shorter. The image below shows that the filament shrinks as it cools after extrusion. The values shown are examples only. Actual shrinkage varies by filament type and print settings.  Let's look at a cubic model now: when looking at the toolpaths, a cubic model breaks down into a top surface, a bottom, walls, and infills. They all use similar print path patterns. The stress from shrinking usually builds up at the bottom edges as the filaments cool. You may have noticed they particularly occur on edges and corners. At these spots, the shape limits the shrinkage. This leaves limited space for the material to contract. The stress from shrinking passes through the layers to the first layer. The first layer is in contact with the print bed. The adhesion between the first layer and the print bed works against shrinking and the shape changes it causes. When the adhesion is not strong enough to withstand stress, the bottom begins to curl up and peel off the print bed. You can see how the bottom, the walls, and the infills tend to shrink in the image below.  We have summarised these methods to stop warping for good. We sort these methods from easy to more advanced. You can pick one and use it in your model, or mix a few for a better result. Now, let's have a look at the methods for fixing warping together. MethodsTo avoid warping, the easiest way is to keep the printing environment stable. Place the printer away from open windows, air vents, or frequently opened doors. Using an enclosed printer helps trap warm air around the print, allowing it to cool more gradually. This keeps the temperature consistent and greatly reduces the chance of warping. For filaments that tend to shrink a lot, like ABS, using an enclosed printer and maintaining a consistent temperature in the enclosure are necessary. Besides choosing a printer, let's check out these methods to fix warping.Fillet outside corners.Break the model into several zones.Add brims around the edges, set the print bed temperature a bit higher, and clean your build plate.Change the infill pattern and density.Try cool plates and liquid glues. Fillet outside cornersAs filaments cool and shrink, the model's walls work against the stress caused by this shrinkage. The outside corners shift the most. The stress from shrinking builds up on the corners (see the image below). From every angle, it is easy to find that warping starts at the corners. It then spreads out towards the model's center.  Fillet the outer walls' corners (see the left image below). This method prevents stress from building up, stopping warping and changing shape (see the right image below).  Sometimes, we need sharp corners in the model's upper part to get a smooth surface with smaller gaps. In this case, add fillets to the sharp bottom corners. Let the rounded corners gradually turn into sharp corners towards the top (see the image below). Set the fillet angle greater than 45 degrees to avoid overhanging tips coming off.  When the model's top warps a bit, you may notice that the surface of the previously printed layer may get too close to the nozzle. It may also scrape the nozzle.As such, the extruded filaments won't be evenly placed on top of the previous layer. The excessive filaments will stack, forming blobs and ridges. To fix this issue, we can add a pillar at each corner. The pillars stand alone and reach all the way up to the sharp corners. They help to support and secure sharp corners. The left image below shows how these pillars look. The right image below shows that the pillar is not attached to the outer wall.  Take a close look at the highlights along the top edges of the two models in the image below. The left model has no pillar to support its top corner. You may have noticed its top edge changes shape slightly. The corner warps a bit. In contrast, the right model has a pillar to support its top corner. Its top edge stays uniform.  When the pillar is too thin, in Bambu Studio, you can use the Auto Brim function or draw brims manually. Draw the brims manually, set them to 0.4mm thick, and their edges to 4mm long. Brims help increase the contact area between the pillar bottom and the print bed. This helps them stick better. After printing, the pillars are easy to remove. Break the model into several zonesFor large parts with thick walls and solid infills, the simple changes above won't fix the warping.Thus, we need to modify the design. The key is to break the model into several zones. It aims to shorten the length of filament that the nozzle extrudes in a single shot. We can use these methods to break the model into several zones:Add a checker pattern to the model's bottomAdd slits within the infills and to the sidewallsControl the wall thickness and break continuous walls Add a checker pattern to the model's bottomAdd grooves to the model's bottom to divide it into small zones, like a checker pattern (see the image below). You can see how the print looks. Its bottom is designed with grooves. No warping appears at the corners.  This way, each small zone can bear stress on its own. You will see less warping at the corners. Set the groove to 1 mm wide, 1 mm deep. Add a 45° chamfer to the bottom of the groove to avoid overhangs. Leave a space of 30 mm - 80 mm between grooves. (see the image below)  Add slits within the infills and to the sidewallsWhen the infills are very thick, you may consider setting the slits longer (see the left image below). Longer slits help cut the infills apart. This method helps spread stress more evenly, preventing warping at the edges (see the right image below).  Please keep in mind: Cutting slits into tall parts or parts that need to bear loads makes them less strong in the vertical direction. They may tend to bend or crush easily. Thus, you can size the slits to fit your needs. In the image below, we can see that the slit sizes are adjusted based on different design needs.  We must keep their surfaces intact or ensure they do not bend when transporting or installing certain parts. In this case, we do not need to cut the bottom. Instead, add slits to the sidewalls (see the right image below). It keeps the top and bottom intact. Or add negative parts to the model. It splits the infills into several zones (see the left image below). They help spread stress from shrinking more evenly, preventing warping.  The image below shows how the printed model looks.  Negative parts form cavities inside the model. Please note: keep cavities more than 1 mm away from all walls. This helps prevent bridging from falling and the top from sagging. Control the wall thickness and break continuous wallsWe would add wall layers when we need to make the structure stronger or the wall of the screw hole thicker. However, thicker walls shrink more as the material cools. It makes warping worse. The model in the right image below has more wall layers than the one in the left image below. Thus, the model with more wall layers shrinks more.  When the walls are too thick, they will shrink too much. To avoid this, keep them under 1.2 mm thick. In some cases, we need to add wall layers to make the part stronger. If only certain areas need extra strength, use a modifier to adjust the wall layers where needed. Like the screw hole design, where we need to make the wall thicker. It may make extra work, but it helps save filaments and lowers the risk of printing failure. The left image below shows using a modifier to adjust the screw hole's wall layers. The right image below shows that the screw hole's wall layers increased to 3. All other settings stay the same.  The image below shows the print result using the modifier.  In addition to controlling wall thickness, we can also design vertical grooves (along the z-axis) on the outer walls (see the image below). These grooves break the continuous wall path. The interrupted wall path helps to reduce stress on the walls. To meet appearance needs, you can use grooves in various forms and adjust their spacing as needed (see the image below). We can see the printed model in the right image below. Its outer walls have grooves built into the model. With this design, the walls do not change their shape.  When you need the top and bottom surfaces intact, set both to 1 mm thick and add a chamfer to the top. A common practice is to create semi-circular grooves on the outer walls. Set the spacing between grooves to 30mm - 80mm. Keep the groove cross-section radius at 2 mm. Add brims around the edges, set the print bed temperature a bit higher, and clean your build plateAdd brims to the bottom edgesBrims are a few lines placed around the edges of the model's bottom (see the image below). These lines increase the contact area between the model's bottom and the print bed. After printing, it is easy to remove the brims.  We can add brims to corners or areas that do not stick well to the print bed. Brims are like suction cups. They increase the contact area between the model and the print bed. Brims also hold and firmly fix the corners to the print bed. They help to prevent the model from warping or peeling off (see the image below). Source: Brim Ears. Retrieved on Mar. 02, 2026, Bambu Lab Wiki https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHTepx89_fw You can add fillets to models with sharp corners. We can also use brim ears in Bambu Studio to make the corners grip the print bed even more firmly. In Bambu Studio, when you turn on auto brim, it creates spots that generate brims at the sharp corners on the bottom edges. When the round corner is small, we can also add brims manually (see the GIF below). See the WIKI page about Brim Ears for more information.  Set the print bed temperature a bit higherTo make the model's bottom stick better to the print bed, try setting the print bed temperature a bit higher. In Bambu Studio, go to Filament parameter settings > Textured PEI plate. Increase the print bed temperature by about 5～10℃. Click Save, check Preset Inside Project, then click OK (see the GIF below).  Clean the build plateYou can try this simple method: before printing, clean the build plate with a mild detergent (see the image below), like water or dish soap. It can remove dust and fat from the build plate. It helps make the model's bottom stick better to the print bed and avoid warping. Source: Identify and Fix First Layer Issues With a Simple Test Print. Retrieved on Mar. 02, 2026, Bambu Lab Wiki. Change the infill pattern and densityTry using a different infill pattern for thick infills to reduce warping risk. You may also adjust the infill density as needed. In Bambu Studio, the grid pattern is the default infill pattern. During printing, the printer produces criss-cross lines that form a mesh infill (see the image below). As the filaments cool, the mesh infills shrink. They are like stretched lines, pulling and holding the walls steady. It stops the walls from changing shape and supports the top surface.  The grid pattern is the optimal option for print time, strength, and quality. But both ends of the filament directly connect to the walls on either side. This transfers stress from shrinking to the outer walls, and the outer walls have no place to release it. This stress from shrinking will pull the walls, causing them to change shape. To reduce stress from shrinking and avoid warping, you may try a gyroid infill pattern (The green lines in the left image below mark how the gyroid infill pattern develops. The right image below shows how the gyroid pattern looks in the real print.). The gyroid infill pattern will bring these benefits:Reduce stress from shrinking through curved lines. Thus, walls are unlikely to change shape.Does not add much print time.Keep the model solid.  Please follow the steps in the GIF below to change to a gyroid infill pattern.  Try lowering the infill density a bit if you need to save filament and further reduce shrinkage. However, the least possible infill density is not the best solution. Low infill density might not support the sidewalls enough. So they could bend or change shape. At the same time, a loose bridging layer makes it difficult to form a dense, solid top surface (see the image below). This makes the model look bad; for instance, the layers on the top surface come apart. It could also weaken the top surface.  To fix this issue, you can set the infill density to 10% or higher. Before printing, check whether the bridging across the top is even. For parts with gyroid infill patterns and multicolor top surfaces, increase the top surface to 1.2mm thick as needed. This helps keep it from sagging. Try cool plates and liquid gluesThe coating on the PEI build plate may wear, or the surface texture may become smooth over time. Even after proper cleaning, it may still not stick well enough. You can lightly sand the surface with 600-grit sandpaper. This creates very small micro-scratches and slightly refreshes the surface layer. In comparison, liquid glue is a good choice to make your PEI build plate stick better. When using a traditional PVA glue stick on the build plate, you may see white marks on the bottom of the printed part. But when you apply the right amount of liquid glue evenly on the build plate (see the image below), it won't leave white marks on the bottom of the part. This helps protect the surface of your PEI build plate. It also helps keep the plate sticky longer and makes it last longer.  If you want the print to stick better or the build plate to last longer, try using a cool plate. Cool plates are ideal for printing with PLA and PETG filaments. The image below shows the model's bottom sticking well to the cool plate. Source: Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack Pro product page. Retrieved on Jan. 30, 2026, Bambu Store Asia. Cool plates also have these advantages:Sticks betterLasts longerEasier to maintainUse less power Most notably, the print quality remains stable even in these situations that occur on the cool plate. Like, leaving fat on the build plate when touching it by hand, or having some scratches on the plate surface. In the image below, we see that adhesion remains stable as print counts increase. Try cool plates in your next buy if you usually print only with PLA and PETG filaments. Source: Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack Pro product page. Retrieved on Jan. 30, 2026, Bambu Store Asia Let's wrap it up. In this article, we discussed common warping issues and the causes. We also learned how to fix warping. Get to try these tricks! Share your ideas and tips in the comments! We'd love to hear from you! Found this article helpful? Click Like and save it for your next design. These articles might help you as well — take a look!Power System Plan: Models Come Alive! #3Power System Plan: Models Come Alive! #4In the comments, feel free to share 1 - 2 topics you’re interested in! We’ll keep an eye on what everyone is most curious about.

In Part 3, we learned how to find out the specifications of devices and power sources. We also discussed how to choose a power source with a matching output capacity. This series has reached its fourth and final part. In this article, we will discuss these two topics.Why is it important to consider the current limits of control and connection components? How to choose suitable cables to connect all components? Why is it important to consider the current limits of control and connection components?To connect and control the devices, we need various components, such as potentiometers, power distribution boards, and CyberBrick receiver boards. If the power source's output exceeds what these components can handle, it may cause an overload or damage. Thus, when choosing control and connection components, we need to consider their current limits (see the image below) and the device's current requirements.  Let's check out one case together. We will see how to consider the current limits of both the control and connection components. Current limit of control componentsNow, let us understand and assess the current limit of each component.N20 motor LA002 x 1 pcsCOB light strip KA009 (300mm each) x 3 pcsPotentiometer IA007 x 1 pcs4-channel power distribution board IA005 x 1 pcsThe N20 motor may require 0.25A to 0.40A during high-power usage. A COB light strip (300mm long each) needs around 0.22A. The required current might hit 1.1A if regulating all lights and the motor's rotational speed with a potentiometer IA007. But the current limit of the potentiometer IA007 is 0.4A. If controlling all lights and the motor's rotational speed by connecting a potentiometer IA007 to a distribution board IA005, excessive power usage may cause these risks.Circuit protection may fail to trigger.After increasing the voltage, the excess current may damage the transistor. In this case, we can use separate potentiometers for the LED light strip and motor. A potentiometer boosts the voltage through a transistor. When the potentiometer limiter is set to its highest setting, the device voltage is a bit higher than when it is directly connected to a power source. When using a potentiometer IA007, consider calculating the required current for your device. Multiply 1.5 to factor in transistor efficiency and voltage overload. This helps ensure stable operation within its regulatory range. For example, a COB light strip KA009 (300mm long each) requires 220mA at 5V. When using the potentiometer IA007to control the light strip, the current rises to 330 mA at 5V. This is calculated by multiplying 200 mA by 1.5. Current limit of connection componentsSome connection components support connecting more devices. For example, a 4-channel power distribution board IA005 and a CyberBrick receiver shield XA004. When using these connection components, please keep their safe working current in mind. Stay under the current limit to avoid damage. For example, you can connect a 4-channel power distribution board to a potentiometer, a motor, and COB light strips. The potentiometer controls the N20 motor's rotational speed. Let us calculate the total demanded current of these devices. The demanded currents for these devices are:One N20 motor controlled by a potentiometer. Its required current is 0.37A - 0.6A. This is 1.5 times the 0.25A～0.4A range.Three COB light strips KA009 (300mm each). Each COB strip requires 0.22A.The total current demand is 1.03A - 1.26A. It exceeds the 4-channel power distribution board's current limit of 1A. Thus, it may trigger the power distribution board's current protection. To lower the total current demand, we can either shorten the light strip or add another power distribution board. ExamplesWe've summarised the control and connection components needed for these models using the methods above. Please see the table below for more details.Retro Observatory - small desk setups360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights - big desk setupsFormula Vintage - CyberBrick - CyberBrick RC carRemote Controlled Water Turret - Composite RC model Retro Observatory - small desk setupsSource: 邦德不喝可乐, Retro Observatory, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld This connection component is suitable for the function below.Connection component: Rechargeable Power Kit-ZC003 Board x 1Specification: 3.7V, 1A FunctionDevicePCSVoltageCurrentTurn the wall lamp on4 White 3030-LED Board with SH1.0 Connector 5V-KB00143.7V-6.0V60mA (5V)Total-43.7V＜240mA 360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights - big desk setupsSource: MaKim, 360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights, MakerWorld, 2024. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld This connection component is suitable for the functions below.Connection component: Power Distribution Board - 4 Channels-IA005 x 1Specification: 3.7V-6V, 1AFunctionDevicePCSVoltageCurrentTurn the light post onCOB LED Strip Light 300x1mm-KA00913.7V-6.0V20mA (5V)Rotate and lift the ballsN20 Single Shaft Worm Gear Motor 25rpm-LA00813.0V-7.0V＜0.16A (6V)Total-23.7V-6V0.26A This control component is suitable for the function below.Control component: Potentiometer Board-IA007 x 1Specification: 7.4V, 0.4AFunctionDevicePCSVoltageCurrentRotate and lift the ballsN20 Single Shaft Worm Gear Motor 25rpm-LA00813.0V-7.0V＜0.16A (6V)Total-13.7V-6V0.26A Formula Vintage - CyberBrick - CyberBrick RC carSource: Kocyns, Formula Vintage - CyberBrick, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld This connection component is suitable for the functions below.Connection component: Remote Control Receiver Shield-XA004 x 1Specification: 7.4V-12.6V, 3A maxFunctionDevicePCSVoltageCurrentRemote controlMulti-Function Controller Core-XA00317.4V – 12.6V300mATurn9g Servo motor 180°-PG00115V (XA004)700mAGo forward030 Micro DC Motor with SH1.0-LA02425V-9V250mARGB tail lightWS2812 RGB LED-KB00325V (XA004)36mATotal-67.4V-9V～1.3A (7.4V)  Remote Controlled Water Turret - composite RC modelSource: MaKim, Remote Controlled Water Turret, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld This connection component is suitable for the functions below.Connection component: Remote Control Receiver Shield-XA004 x 1Specification: 7.4V-12.6V, 3A maxFunctionDevicePCSVoltageCurrentRemote controlMulti-Function Controller Core - XA00317.4V – 12.6V300mAAdjust the water gun's left/right movement9g Servo motor 360°-PG00215V (XA004)550mAAdjust the water gun's up/down movement9g Servo motor 180°-PG00115V (XA004)700mAPress the trigger to shoot9g Servo motor 180° - PG00115V (XA004)700mAStatus lightWS2812 RGB LED-KB00335V (XA004)36mATotal-77.4V1.7AShoot a water streamElectric Water Spray Kit 01-ZC00417.4V1A (average)2.4A (peak current) The function below does not require a connection component.FunctionDevicePCSVoltageCurrentShoot a water streamElectric Water Spray Kit 01-ZC00417.4V1A (average)2.4A (peak current) How to choose suitable cables to connect all components?Once we've confirmed that each device's current requirements are met, we now need to connect each interface with the matching cables (see the image below).  For example, the N20 series motor terminals and the channel ports on the 4-channel power distribution board use SH1.0 2P female connectors. To connect a N20 series motor to a 4-channel power distribution board IA005, you can use the SH1.0 2P male-to-male wire (IC004). It links the motor terminal to the channel port. This wire comes with the N20 motor package. If the ports at both ends are different, we need to connect with either an adapter cable or a board. In everyday life, you may use adapters to convert XH2.54 (wide plug) to PH2.0 (narrow voltage power). It is also common to connect PH2.0 power directly to SH1.0 devices. Besides, the adapter board helps extend cables (see the image below). For example, the SH1.0 2P adapter board is ideal for a large model.  Please check the list below for connecting cables needed for common setups.     Please check the product detail page for each electronic component or the instructions. It provides detailed instructions, connection guidelines, and examples. In this article, we have explored why it is important to consider the current limits of control and connection components, and how to choose suitable cables to connect all components. By the end of this article, we completed our exploration of the power system plan series together. We hope these ideas and methods help you find the right way forward and save time when choosing a power source. These articles might help you as well — take a look!Power System Plan: Models Come Alive! #1Power System Plan: Models Come Alive! #2Power System Plan: Models Come Alive! #3 If this guide sparked ideas or felt familiar, share your thoughts in the comments — let’s chat! Like and save if it helped.

In Part 2, we learned about power sources for various applications. Now entering Part 3, we will discuss how to find out the specifications of devices and power sources. We will also explore how to choose a power source with a matching output capacity. Let's get started.How to find out the specifications of devices and power sources?On the Maker's Supply product detail page, you can find product specifications. Check the product detail page to find the power requirements and limits of the devices and power sources. The N20 motor's product specifications, as shown in the image below, list the rated voltage, current, locked-rotor torque, and rotating speed, etc. CW means clockwise.How to choose a power source with a matching output capacity?When choosing a power source, we need to consider the device's voltage, power, and application. We need to change how we pick a power source when the device voltage and current change (see the image below for power source types). Now, let us have a look at how to choose a power source for these situations.Choose a power source based on the device voltage Choose a separate power source for devices requiring different voltages Verify the wattage of a power source for devices requiring the same voltage Choose a separate power source for devices requiring high current Choose a power source for devices requiring power conversion Choose a power source based on the device voltageFirst, we need to check the device voltage to find out the power source voltage it needs. With this in place, we can further decide on a suitable power source. For instance, a CyberBrick remote requires a remote control transmitter shield XA005 and a multi-function controller core XA003. They need a voltage ranging from 4.5V to 12.6V. If we power the remote with an AAA battery case XA012 and 3 rechargeable nickel-metal hydride batteries, the total voltage is 3.6V. This voltage is lower than the needed (4.5V - 12.6V). It may stop the remote from working. Thus, we suggest using alkaline, lithium-iron phosphate, or rechargeable lithium batteries with 4.5V (see the image below).  Choose a separate power source for devices requiring different voltagesWhen devices need different voltages, we need to power them separately. We can also replace them with components rated for the same voltage. For example, to make a glowing water gun, you'll need an LED light strip (COB LED Strip Light KA009) and a water spray kit (Electric Water Spray Kit 01 - ZC004). The LED light strip needs 3.7V-6V (see the image below). A low voltage dims the light. A high voltage may damage the LED beads. The water spray kit needs 7.4V-8.4V (see the image below). A low voltage may stop the water gun from spraying. A high voltage may strip the gear. Since they need different voltages, we cannot use a single power source for both. To avoid this issue, we suggest powering the LED light strip with a rechargeable power kit ZC003. Power the water spray kit using a 2S 18650 lithium battery.  You may have noticed that when the voltage drops below the nominal voltage, you will see a decrease in motor speed and power, and in LED light brightness. At the same time, it requires a lower current. When the voltage goes over the nominal voltage, motor speed and power will rise, and LED brightness will rise as well. And it requires a stronger current. To avoid device failure or damage, please use the device within its nominal voltage when adjusting voltage. Verify the wattage of a power source for devices requiring the same voltageFor devices requiring the same voltage, think about their applications and current needs when picking a power source. For example, the CyberBrick remote needs about 250 mA of current. When powering the controller with an AAA battery holder XA012 and carbon-zinc batteries, they usually deliver 15 mA of continuous current (see the image below). Such a high current may cause a sudden decrease in voltage. For a controller, it may stop it from working. For dry batteries, a high current may cause batteries to over-discharge. This could cause the battery's chemicals to leak. For other power sources, a high current could damage components or trigger overload protection.  Choose a separate power source for devices requiring high currentWhen current demand goes over what a power source can manage, we need to check each device's needs. Then, provide a suitable power source for each one. Let us try another approach to make a glowing water gun. We need an LED light strip (COB LED Strip Light KA009) and a water spray kit (Electric Water Spray Kit 02 - ZC005). We can use a 3.7V power source in this case. But the rechargeable power kit's upper current limit (ZC003) is only 0.5A. It won't be enough for what a ZC005 motor requires, i.e., 0.9A. Thus, we need to give each a suitable power source. (see the image below). Choose a power source for devices requiring power conversionWhen choosing power sources for devices needing power conversion, we need to check if the device's power matches the power source's power output. For example, in the model using a CyberBrick receiver shield XA004, the output voltage at the receiver shield's motor interface matches the battery voltage. But the output voltage from the servo motor and the LED light interfaces is a regulated 5V. When checking the power demands of these devices, we first calculate each device's power. Power is voltage times current. Then compare the devices' total power with the power source's output power to pick the right power source. Let us take an RC car as an example to understand how to choose a power source by comparing the power. An RC car needs these parts.CyberBrick receiver shield XA004 x 1 pcs030 motor LA024 x 1 pcs9g servo motor 180° PG001 x 1 pcs The required voltage, current, and total power of these parts are shown below.A CyberBrick receiver shield XA004 requires 7.4V and 300mA.A 030 motor requires 7.4V and 250mA.A 9g servo motor 180° needs around 5V and at most 700mA.The total power of these three parts is 7.57W. 2S14500 lithium battery pack PC003 provides 7.4V and 3A. Its power reaches 22.2W. This is higher than the total power of the three parts (7.57W). Thus, a 2S14500 lithium battery pack PC003 is sufficient to power an RC car (see the image below).  ExamplesTo check if the chosen power source works, we listed the power requirements for each case (see the table below).Retro Observatory - small desk setups360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights - big desk setupsFormula Vintage - CyberBrick - CyberBrick RC carRemote Controlled Water Turret - composite RC model Retro Observatory - small desk setupsSource: 邦德不喝可乐, Retro Observatory, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld This power source powers the function below.Power source: Rechargeable Power Kit - ZC003 x 1Specification: 3.7V, 1A FunctionDevicePCSVoltageCurrentTurn the wall lamp on4 White 3030-LED Board with SH1.0 Connector 5V-KB00143.7V - 6.0V60mA (5V)Total-43.7V＜240mA 360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights - big desk setupsSource: MaKim, 360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights, MakerWorld, 2024. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld This power source powers the functions below.Power source: USB-A Power Cable - IC001 x 1Specification: 5V, 1A (USB3.0) FunctionDevicePCSVoltageCurrentTurn the light post onCOB LED Strip Light 300x1mm-KA00913.7V-6.0V220mA (5V)Rotate and lift the ballsN20 Single Shaft Worm Gear Motor 25rpm-LA008Potentiometer Board-IA00713.0V-7.0V＜1.5 x 0.16A (6V)Total-23.7V-6.0V460mA  Formula Vintage - CyberBrick - CyberBrick RC carSource: Kocyns, Formula Vintage - CyberBrick, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld This power source powers the functions below.Power source: 14500 7.4V 800mAh Li-ion Battery-PC003 x 1Specification: 7.4V, 3A, 22.2WFunctionDevicePCSVoltageCurrentPowerRemote controlMulti-Function Controller Core-XA003Remote Control Receiver Shield-XA00417.4V – 12.6V300mA2.25WTurn9g Servo motor 180°-PG00115V (XA004)700mA3.50WGo forward030 Micro DC Motor with SH1.0-LA02425V-9V250mA2.00WRGB tail lightWS2812 RGB LED-KB00325V (XA004)36mA0.18WTotal-67.4V-9V1.3A(below 7.4V)10.11W  Remote Controlled Water Turret - composite RC modelSource: MaKim, Remote Controlled Water Turret, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld This power source 1 powers the functions below.Power source 1: 14500 7.4V 800mAh Li-ion Battery - PC003 x 1Specification: 7.4V, 3A, 22.2WFunctionDevicePSCVoltageCurrentPowerRemote controlMulti-Function Controller Core-XA00317.4V – 12.6V300mA2.25WAdjust the water gun's left/right movement9g Servo motor 360°-PG00215V (XA004)550mA2.75WAdjust the water gun's up/down movement9g Servo motor 180°-PG00115V (XA004)700mA3.50WPress the trigger to shoot9g Servo motor 180°-PG00115V (XA004)700mA3.50WStatus lightWS2812 RGB LED - KB00335V (XA004)36mA0.18WTotal-77.4V1.7A12.54W  This power source 2 powers the function below.Power source 2: 18650 7.4V 2200mAh Li-ion Battery x 1Specification: 7.4V, 6.6A, 48.8WFunctionDevicePSCVoltageCurrentPowerShoot a water streamElectric Water Spray Kit 01 - ZC00417.4V1A ( average)2.4A (peak current)7.4WTotal-17.4V2.4A7.4W  In this article, we learned how to find out the specifications of devices and power sources. We also discussed how to choose a power source with a matching output capacity. In the next article, we will share why it is important to consider the current limits of control and connection components. We will also cover how to pick suitable cables to link all components - don't miss it! These articles might help you as well — take a look!Power System Plan: Models Come Alive! #1Power System Plan: Models Come Alive! #2 If this guide sparked ideas or felt familiar, share your thoughts in the comments — let’s chat! Like and save if it helped.

In Part 1, we have learned what parts make up a model's power supply system and how to combine the required devices. Welcome to Part 2. We will discuss the power sources for different applications. Let's get started.Which power sources work for different applications? On the Maker's Supply store, you have these power sources to choose from.USB power cablesBattery holders for dry batteriesRechargeable lithium batteriesTo help you easily pick the right one, we will look at the features and uses of power sources. We will also share some handy tips. USB power cables: Suitable for fixed-position setups, such as desk setupsUSB power cable works well with fixed items, such as table decorations. Electronic devices can be powered by connecting them to a power source via a USB power cable (see the image below). This is a convenient power solution. Different types of USB connectors can supply 5V. But their maximum current varies depending on the connected interface standard. For example, when you connect the USB-A Power Cable with PH2.0 Connector-IC001 power cable to a USB 2.0 port, it can deliver at least 500 mA. When you connect the USB-A Power Cable with PH2.0 Connector-IC001 power cable to a USB 3.0 port, it can supply at least 900 mA. Connecting it to a USB 3.2 port on a new laptop can deliver up to 1.5A.  The TYPE C Female Head to PH2.0 Power Supply Cable-XC009 power cable has a USB Type-C port. It usually provides a current between 1.5A and 3A. This is enough to power most of the models. We suggest using a USB 3.0 port on a USB-A port to get enough power. Or go with the USB power cables and ports you already have. Battery holder for dry batteries: Great for models requiring low power, easy to move, and easy battery access, like remote and miniature models.A battery case has a case for dry batteries and a built-in power switch. Its cover can be secured by screws. A dry battery case is a convenient and reliable power source. This technology is mature, safe, and reliable. It is easy to purchase and use dry batteries. Thus, they are commonly found in toys and household electronics. A single dry battery usually provides 1.5 V. When you connect several dry batteries in series, they can deliver a higher voltage. For the same type of dry battery, the bigger the size, the higher the capacity. You can find battery holder specifications (see the image below) on the Maker's Supply product page.  The image below shows the common battery cases. The battery case's power output depends on the battery type used. Depending on the designs, batteries are either disposable or rechargeable. Let us take a look at it together.  Disposable batteries: carbon-zinc battery, alkaline battery, and lithium-iron phosphate battery Carbon-zinc batteryCarbon-zinc batteries were the earliest type of disposable battery. They are inexpensive but offer limited capacity and current output. The zinc casing wears out over time. This may cause the battery fluid to leak out. Usually, carbon-zinc batteries are used in devices that require low power and are used occasionally, like infrared remote controls. An AAA battery's output current is 15mA. An AA battery's output current is 50mA. Due to its low current output, it is not suitable for models that need to run nonstop for hours. So, it is better not to use carbon-zinc batteries in most models. Alkaline batteryAlkaline batteries are the most widely used type of dry battery. Compared with carbon-zinc batteries, they have higher capacity and stronger current output. Meanwhile, they are affordable. Fresh AAA alkaline batteries usually deliver up to 1000 mA of current. After continuous use for 1 hour, the current drops to around 450 mA. This makes them great for small devices and models that do not need to run nonstop for hours, like desktop ornaments. However, note that avoid over-discharging your battery. This helps stop battery fluid from leaking and damaging your device. Lithium-iron disulfide batteryLithium-iron disulfide batteries are considered the third generation of dry battery technology. Compared with alkaline batteries, they work over a wider temperature range. They also have a higher capacity and output current. But they are more expensive. Besides, they don't leak fluid. This helps prevent damage to the device and reduces the risk of pollution when the battery runs low.  Rechargeable batteries: Nickel-metal hydride battery and rechargeable lithium battery Nickel-metal hydride batteryNickel-metal hydride batteries are the most common type of rechargeable dry battery. Their capacity is similar to that of alkaline batteries. They can deliver a higher current and don't leak fluid. But a Nickel-metal hydride battery delivers 1.2V. This low voltage can slow down the electric motor connected to a distribution board. It can also make LED lights dimmer. A relatively low voltage may cause the CyberBrick remote control to stop working. So, avoid using Nickel-metal hydride batteries in the CyberBrick remote controls. Rechargeable lithium batteryRechargeable lithium batteries are made from cylindrical lithium batteries by reducing the voltage. They can provide a stable 1.5V supply and moderate current. Compared with nickel-metal hydride batteries, rechargeable lithium batteries provide higher voltage and capacity. They work well with uses that require adequate voltage and current, like vibrating game controllers and RC remote controls. To power a CyberBrick remote control with a battery holder and rechargeable batteries, rechargeable lithium batteries are a good choice. Lithium battery: Suitable for models requiring high power and small batteries, like CyberBrick RC cars.Li-ion batteryCompared with dry batteries, Li-ion batteries deliver higher capacity and current output. They are ideal for devices that consume more power, like RC cars and large toy motors. You can see the common Li-ion batteries in the image below.  Lithium batteries are usually sold as battery packs. Inside, the cells are connected in series or parallel, with a protection circuit board and plugs attached. When picking a Li-ion battery, check the specifications about battery size and nominal capacity. Battery sizeLi-ion battery size is expressed in 5 digits in the battery code (e.g., 18650). The digits, in sequence, show its diameter, height, and shape. The last digit indicates the cylindrical shape. For example, 18650 means a battery with a diameter of 18mm, a height of 65mm, and a cylindrical shape. Similarly, 14500 means a cylindrical battery with a diameter of 14mm and a height of 50mm. Nominal capacityNominal capacity describes how much charge it can deliver under set discharge conditions. It is usually expressed in mAh. The higher the nominal capacity, the longer the runtime. How to figure out whether the battery will last long enough? We need to calculate battery runtime. It is easy to calculate the battery runtime. You can divide the battery's nominal capacity by the actual discharge current (the total current of the devices). An 800 mAh battery at a 400 mA discharge lasts about 2 hours (800 mAh divided by 400 mA). Then, compare the calculated battery runtime to the required runtime. Please note this in practice: considering the battery chemistry, when the actual discharge current goes over the rated discharge current, the actual runtime is a bit shorter than the calculated runtime. Lower current gives a bit longer runtime. Check the battery package or the product detail page on Maker's Supply to find out Li-ion battery specifications. You can see the Li-ion battery specifications in the image below. Lithium-polymer batteriesIf you need a small, lightweight battery, the rechargeable power kit ZC003 is a good choice. It provides a lithium-polymer battery (see the image below). The Rechargeable Power Kit also includes an integrated power switch.   The chemicals in lithium-polymer batteries are gel-like. Compared with Li-ion batteries, it has a higher discharge rate. It is easy to shape the gel-like battery fluid into different shapes and sizes. In theory, gel-like battery chemicals are safer. See the image below: the left side shows a lithium-polymer battery; the right side shows a Li-ion battery.  Compared with Li-ion batteries, lithium-polymer batteries have higher power and mass density but lower energy density. When the sizes are similar, lithium-polymer batteries are heavier. They have lower capacity but stronger discharge. Thus, lithium-polymer batteries are great for uses that need high power and high current. For example, FPV drones and fixed-wing model airplanes. For models with limited space and low power needs, a small yet powerful lithium-polymer battery is an ideal choice. For example, the battery used in a lightweight wireless gaming mouse. The lithium-polymer battery in the rechargeable power kit Z003 is ideal for designs with tight spaces. ExamplesWe selected the appropriate power sources for each model based on the power options above. Please see the table below.Retro Observatory - small desk setups360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights - big desk setupsFormula Vintage - CyberBrick - CyberBrick RC carRemote Controlled Water Turret - Composite RC model Retro Observatory - small desk setupsSource: 邦德不喝可乐, Retro Observatory, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld This power source is suitable for the function and the application below.Power source: Lithium-polymer battery - Rechargeable Power Kit ZC003 x 1 FunctionDevicePCSApplicationTurn the wall lamp on4 White 3030-LED Board with SH1.0 Connector 5V-KB0014Small size, low power, movable  360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights - big desk setupsSource: MaKim, 360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights, MakerWorld, 2024. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld  This power source and the control component are suitable for the functions and the application below.Power source: USB-A Power Cable - IC001 x 1 FunctionDevicePCSApplicationTurn the light post onCOB LED Strip Light 300x1mm - KA0091Small size, lower power, fixed positionRotate and lift the ballsN20 Single Shaft Worm Gear Motor 25rpm - LA0081  Formula Vintage - CyberBrick - CyberBrick RC carSource: Kocyns, Formula Vintage - CyberBrick, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld This power source is suitable for the functions and the application below.Power source: 2S14500 Li-ion Battery - PC003 x 1 FunctionDevicePCSApplicationRemote controlMulti-Function Controller Core - XA0031High power, moves with the modelTurn9g Servo motor 180° - PG0011Go forward030 Micro DC Motor with SH1.0 - LA0242RGB tail lightWS2812 RGB LED - KB0032  Remote Controlled Water Turret - composite RC modelSource: MaKim, Remote Controlled Water Turret, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld This power source is suitable for the functions and the application below.Power source: 2S14500 Li-ion Battery - PC003 x 1 FunctionDevicePSCApplicationRemote controlMulti-Function Controller Core - XA0031High power, moves with the modelAdjust the water gun's left/right movement9g Servo motor 360° - PG0021Adjust the water gun's up/down movement9g Servo motor 180° - PG0011Press the trigger to shoot9g Servo motor 180° - PG0011Status lightWS2812 RGB LED - KB0033  Power source: 18650 7.4V 2200mAh Li-ion Battery x 1 FunctionDevicePSCApplicationShoot a water streamElectric Water Spray Kit 01 - ZC0041High power, moves with the model We have learned about power sources for different applications. In the next article, we will discuss how to find out the specifications of devices and power sources. We will also cover how to choose a power source with a matching output capacity. See you next time! These articles might help you as well — take a look!Power System Plan: Models Come Alive! #1How to Design Screw Holes for 3D Printing? If this guide sparked ideas or felt familiar, share your thoughts in the comments — let’s chat! Like and save if it helped. Recommended reading[1] Chris Sporck, "USB Type-C Charging Connectors: Design, Optimization, and Interoperability,“ MonolithicPower, 2023

When you design your model car, you might want LED lights to blink or change colors. This makes it more playful. At the same time, you may also want to steer the car precisely. To make these effects happen, we need to properly combine the matching electronic components. However, facing many different power sources, you may find it difficult to decide. How can you map your desired function requirements to power supply requirements? To answer this, we have launched the Power System Plan: Models Come Alive! Series. We hope this series helps you quickly find the right components, avoiding trial-and-error and wasted time. In Part 1, we will discuss these two topics together.What parts make up a model's power supply system? How can we combine the required devices based on your desired functions and applications? What parts make up a model's power supply system?A model's power supply system has a power source, connection components, control components, and devices (see the image below). These electronic components connect to each other, and each does its job.  Power sourceA power source provides power to the devices in a circuit. When picking a power source, choose the right type and specifications based on the devices' voltage, current, and how they will be used. You've probably seen these common power sources (see the image below):Connecting a USB-A or USB-C cable to a fast charger A battery holder or battery contact plates with dry batteries Different lithium batteries  Connection componentsConnection components link power sources, control components, and devices together. Receiver shields, slip rings, and distribution boards are common connection components in circuits (see the image below). Here is a good example to look at. Connect a battery holder to several motors or LED lights using wires and distribution boards. Then, add a switch to control them all.  On the Maker's Supply store, you can get these common connection components.Power distribution boards and connectors, such as ZH090, XA006, XC003, and XC012Wire slip ring XA001 and XA002Round magnetic connector XE0034-channel power distribution board IA005Remote control receiver shield XA004 Certain connection components fit just right for specific uses. For example, a slip ring lets the connected part spin continuously (see the image below). At the same time, no tangled wires will bother you. Source: MaKim, Rotating Light Display, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld  You may want to unplug and reconnect the components with ease. Then, try a magnetic connector XE003 (see the image below). Source: MaKim, Snap lamp, MakerWorld, 2026. Retrieved on Jan. 14, 2026, MakerWorld Control componentsControl components turn the power source on and off or output control signals. They also adjust the voltage to manage device switching and power. Switches and potentiometers are common examples (see the image below). Switches can turn motors on and off. Potentiometers are used to dim or brighten lights. The controller core is also a control component (see the image below).  Some of the control components have current limits. This means that we need to keep the working current below its maximum rated current. This aims to avoid damage to the control components. For example, we suggest keeping the current below 0.4A when using a potentiometer. Otherwise, it may cause the transistor to overheat, trigger protection, or cause damage. On the Maker's Supply store, you can get these common control components.Power switch XA007 and button switch IA006Potentiometer IA007Multifunction controller core XA003USB speed controller IA002 DevicesDevices transform power into other forms of energy and can enable specific functions within your model. What we usually see includes LED lights, servo motors, motors, and fans (see the image below). For example, drive wheels or gears with motors, or light up the RC car lamps with LED lights.  How can we combine the required devices based on your desired functions and applications?In 3D printing projects, we should choose devices based on the desired functions. Then, decide on the combination of the required parts based on the applications. For example, to make a model move, use motors to drive gears and servo motors to steer wheels. To light RC car lamps, use LED lights (see the image below).  Maker's Supply devices fall into these categories based on their power needs. We hope it makes it easy for you to pick the right one for different applications.Modular electronic modulesDevices powered by built-in batteriesMotors and LED light strips with built-in USB power cablesModule kitsLED light strips powered by a DC power supply We suggest using these different types of devices separately. If combining them is required, we need to plan multiple power supply systems. Modular electronic modulesAn electronic component system includes electronic modular parts. These components have connectors and can be connected via wires. For example, N20 motors, 030 micro DC motors, LED beads, LED light strips, fans, servo motors, and electric push rods. These electronic components are the best pick for designing a small multi-function model. Combining these components with a 4-channel power distribution board (IA005) or a CyberBrick module can make many functions work (see the image below). You may see these electronic components in various applications, like battery-powered moving models or USB-powered desktop setups.  Devices powered by built-in batteriesDevices with built-in batteries run on either built-in batteries or dry batteries. For example, puck lights, thermohygrometers, candle lights, LED lights with magnetic switches, and waterproof LED lights (see the image below). These devices are powered by the built-in batteries. Thus, we do not need to plan an extra power source for them. You can use these devices alone. Or freely combine them with any other devices. Keep in mind that many of these devices are small and require button batteries (see the image below). When using these compact devices in products for kids, we suggest that adults handle the installation. And ensure the components are installed out of children's reach. Please keep the magnets used to control a magnetic control lamp in a safe place, or fix them in a location where children cannot reach them.  Motors and LED light strips with built-in USB power cablesFor parts with built-in USB power cables, the USB plug is directly soldered to the part. The USB plug can not be removed. Motors and LED light strips with built-in USB power cables include:TT reduction gear motors (see the image below)6500K white LED light strips (see the image below)S-shape RGB light stripsLED lamps Some big models may have simple functions and be used at fixed places. For them, USB-powered motors and light strips are a good pick. You often see them in big models, like Marbelrun toy ornaments or the AMS riser.  Module kitsThe module kits are large components. They are used to enable advanced functions. They come from reliable products and have their own power supply systems. You can enable advanced features for 3D-printed models using these kits. With them, we can make models that bring more fun and interaction. You can buy these well-selected kits from the Maker's Supply store.Magnetic levitation kit ZC008 (left side of the image below)Electric water spray kit 01 & 02Motion-activated sound and light props kitElectric bubble maker kitHandheld vacuum cleaner kitLithophane LED backlight board kit KC009 & 010 (right side of the image below) Source: Magnetic Levitation DIY Kit & Lithophane LED Backlight Board Kit Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, Bambu Store Usually, matching batteries or power sources come with the kits. You will need separate power sources when combining with other devices. LED light strips powered by a DC power supplyLED light strips powered by a DC power supply (see the image below) deliver higher power. They support longer light strips with more LEDs per meter. You can tune it to warm or cool. They are ideal for high-brightness fill lights or photo light boxes. The power needs of the LED strip change with its length. They require a 24V DC power source (see the image below). These light strips are ideal for installing inside printer enclosures. Or directly plug them into a wall outlet.  ExamplesLet us walk through one case and match each function to the required devices. When designing a moving model, we need motors or servo motors to drive wheels and gears. We need LED lights to light up the car lamps. To build an RC car with all functions working, like Formula Vintage - CyberBrick, we need these parts.CyberBrick controller core and receiver shield x 1 pcs (as RC main controller)Angular servo motor x 1 pcs (steering control)Motor or speed servo motor x 1 pcs (drive to move forward)Several RGB LED beads (turn on the car lamps) To make your design easier, we've listed the functions and required devices for each model in the table below.Retro Observatory - small desk setups360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights - big desk setupsFormula Vintage - CyberBrick - CyberBrick RC carRemote Controlled Water Turret - composite RC model Retro Observatory - small desk setups Source: 邦德不喝可乐, Retro Observatory, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld FunctionDevicePCSTurn the wall lamp on4 White 3030 LED Board with SH1.0 Connector 5V - KB0014  360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights - big desk setups Source: MaKim, 360˚ Rotating Marble Run - Enclosed with Lights, MakerWorld, 2024. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld FunctionDevicePCSTurn the light post onCOB LED Strip Light 300x1mm - KA0091Rotate and lift the ballsN20 Single Shaft Worm Gear Motor 25rpm - LA0081 Formula Vintage - CyberBrick - CyberBrick RC car Source: Kocyns, Formula Vintage - CyberBrick, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorld  FunctionDevicePCSRemote controlMulti-Function Controller Core-XA003Remote Control Receiver Shield-XA0041Turn9g Servo motor 180° - PG0011Move forward030 Micro DC Motor with SH1.0 - LA0242Turn on the RGB tail lightWS2812 RGB LED - KB0032  Remote Controlled Water Turret - composite RC model Source: MaKim, Remote Controlled Water Turret, MakerWorld, 2025. Retrieved on Dec. 31, 2025, MakerWorldFunctionDevicePCSRemote controlMulti-Function Controller Core - XA0031Shoot a water streamElectric Water Spray Kit 01 - ZC0041Adjust the water gun's left/right movement9g Servo motor 360° - PG0021Adjust the water gun's up/down movement9g Servo motor 180° - PG0011Press the trigger to shoot9g Servo motor 180° - PG0011Turn on the front status lightWS2812 RGB LED - KB0033 We have explored what parts make up a model's power supply system and how to combine the required devices. We will share the power sources for various applications in the next article. Find out more next time! These articles might help you as well — take a look! Lithium Battery Case Design: You got this! How to Design Screw Holes for 3D Printing? If this guide sparked ideas or felt familiar, share your thoughts in the comments — let’s chat! Like and save if it helped.