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Digital Arcade Flightstick 3 The Raptor

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A1
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A2L

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 5% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 5% infill
Designer
4 h
2 plates

Ultimarc 360 compatible - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
Ultimarc 360 compatible - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
Designer
4 h
1 plate

M10x30 Hex nut (13.125mm)  0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
M10x30 Hex nut (13.125mm) 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
Designer
4 h
1 plate

M10 x 30 Hex Nut (13.05mm) 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
M10 x 30 Hex Nut (13.05mm) 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
Designer
4 h
1 plate

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Description

Update 16/03/24:  Added Ultimarc & M10x30 Hex nut compatible raptor bodies (Many thanks to user francislej

Analog Update: Received my cheap analog arcade joystick mechanism from AliExpress and I can confirm that The Raptor fits and works well BUT it doesn't have a strong recentering effect so it needs to be mounted flat and not at an angle plus I can't vouch for how long it will last because I only just got it. $24 AUD (Around $17 USD) inc. postage, If you want to try it out.

Link is down in the misc. notes.

...

Now I'm on v3 of my Digital arcade Flightstick series I am starting to think it shouldn't be digital anymore, so I have searched down a not-too-expensive (read: cheap) arcade analog stick and placed an order. I did consider the Ultimarc UltraStik (especially the 360FS) but the cost was high and you could buy an off the shelf analog stick for less.

If anybody has a spare UltraStik or knows of a cheap way to get one to Australia please message me.

Anyway, continuing on from my other flightsticks, "The Raptor" is relatively simple to print and requires only 8 of a single type of push button to be ready for battle!

 

Obviously, you will need to wire up the buttons, have a Sanwa clone joystick to plant it on and an encoder to interface with your chosen device.

The reason this version has a separate front cover is so you can consolidate the ground wires from the back 5 buttons, thus reducing the amount of wiring running through the body. I also would suggest feeding a wire up to the trigger push button location from the bottom, the turn is a little tight to be able to feed it from the top.

 

As a connection suggestion, considering that there are 8 fire buttons and a ground wire you could use a coiled spring type cable terminating in a 9pin D plug with a connector situated on the front of your control panel, or just under if it overhangs.

I hope someone gets as much of a kick out of this as I did designing and making it, this is not the end of the flightstick series but I might have a go at a few others things in the meantime.

 

MY PATREON & PATREON SHOP.

https://www.patreon.com/3DFreeman

 

Here's a non-affiliate link to the type of cheap and cheerful Sanwa clone I use:

Aliexpress.com

 

And the momentary push button switches:

Aliexpress.com

 

Thanks for checking out my designs.

 

Misc. notes:

Overly long AliExpress link to SJ@JX Arcade Controller 3D Analog Joystick:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002797741274.html?… etc

Comment & Rating (3)

(0/1000)

Boosted
<3 Please update with a build of materials (BOM) from aliexpress, alibaba, temu, and/or amazon. Momentary push button switches link from ebay doesn't work.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
designer
1
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Hey, no worries. I updated the links but I can't guarantee their longevity. I appreciate the Boosts but I got to be straight with you here, I design arcade parts mostly, this flightstick and the Tron sticks just fix onto the analog (or digital) arcade mechanisms listed with the updated links. Apart from some soldering I don't do electronics BUT there is a guy I can point you at: https://makerworld.com/en/models/576583
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Boosted
hi! I'm boosting every chance I get. Joystick/hotas development has been stale for a while now and the only 6DOF dev went dark. I wish you all the best, and I hope you can contribute something amazing to the FOSS scene. Cheers!
designer
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