PH-163 Connector (HP Oval)
Print Profile(1)

Description
Boost Me (for free)
Summary
This is a HP-163 compatible connector I made to power an old HP 5245L counter I bought from a retired electronic tech.
These connectors are nowhere to be found these days unless you want to pay through the nose for a "vintage" cable on eBay.
More information on the PH-163 here.
If you like this and want to incentivize me to make more, consider a boost.
If you don't have a 3D printer, I published the model on JLCPCB. You can have it made in black SLS nylon (recommended) for less than 4US$. Shipping starts at 2US$.
WARNING! RISK OF DEATH!
Mains voltage is dangerous. I am not an electrical engineer and cannot guarantee the safety of my design. Make it at your own risks.
If you have a doubt, do NOT build this.
CAUTION!
Old electrical devices should not be left unattended, even when they seem powered off (for example, the HP counter is still keeping its crystal oven on even when it is apparently "shut off"). One of the components could fail suddenly and cause a fire (a few diodes went up in flames while I was testing my unit). Also electrical standards have evolved and these devices are very probably less safe than modern equipment.
ABSOLUTELY NON COMMERCIAL
I MEAN IT. You can make this connector for yourself, AT YOUR OWN RISKS. By downloading the files you are accepting the terms of the license which expressly forbids you to SELL the model or the prints in any way shape or form. You can modify and re-share the model but you HAVE to credit me. You can’t share the model under ANY OTHER license than CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.
It’s not because it’s available to print for free that the model is yours to do as you please. It's free as in free speech, not as in free beer. If you don’t like the terms of this license, go ahead and make your own.
Print Settings
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0.20 mm
Infill:
20
Filament:
Any (except soft TPU)
Notes:
The profile uses tree supports, this gives the best results.
The stl files have also been tested on an SLS printer.
Post-Printing
You will need:
- a NEMA cable with ground (I salvaged an old monitor cable, and cut off the IEC connector),
- 3 female crimp receptacles (TE model 633381-1), that can be found here and here,
- a rubber grommet (1/4 inch inside diameter), I got those, and
- 2 socket head cap 10mm M3 screws and associated nuts

Assembly:
Remove 1/2 inch insulation off the cable, then expose 1/8 inch of the copper on each wire. Twist the copper wire for a better grip in the crimpCrimp the receptacles to the wires.

There is a tab on the bottom shell that prevent the receptacles from being pushed inside the body.

Use the screws and nuts to lock everything together. The teeth inside the housing should pinch the outside insulator just enough that you can’t yank the cable from the connector.


History
Update 20210521
Changed orientation to print without needing rotation.
Modified printing instructions.
Update 20230602
New model with obvious license markings. Had to shut down access to TinkerCad source as some people thought it was okay to sell this on Etsy. Sorry for the respectful people out there.
Added links to shared model on JLCPCB 3D printing service so that people without a printer could make their own.


















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