P1S Case riser, LED holder and Vent

A big Thank You to anyone who gives/gave me a boost - they're a great way to say you found the design useful and really help me out when buying more filament for prototypes etc! Much appreciated! 😁

Please Note: 

1. The project file uses an ABS print profile, don't forget to change this if you're going to use a different filament! (but see caution about temp resistance in the main text below)
2. This big model is split into four quadrants that are deliberately designed to be glued together; the included dowels help with alignment as you add a spot of CA or whatever, but they won't hold it together permanently! Anything stronger (such as butterfly connectors) won't allow for any fine-tuning/sanding to get a good match for your printer body (most prints won't need any, but tiny differences in printer calibration and filament shrinkage can affect such a large print by a mm or two)

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Why not add this angle strip to your printer's case for easier cleaning too?

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This riser adds 5cm or 2” of height and matches the case shape nicely. It has a channel all the way around on the inside for LEDs, and it fits a really nice USB/COB strip I found on Amazon that provides a continuous, unbroken strip of light all the way around (timelapses are way better now!)

You can keep your door shut all the time now too - keep the vent(s) open for lower-temperature materials, or closed to keep the heat in for ABS, nylon etc. (There are holes for magnets in the vents, but they turned out to be overkill as the vent slider lines up and operates perfectly anyway.)

I only wanted/needed a vent on one side (and have never had any problems with it), but I've supplied a two-vent/symmetrical version in addition to the original, as a few people have asked for it.

Designed for P1S but should be fine on P1P, X1 series too. They don't all have USB power though, so you may need to drill a hole for an external power supply (or cut one out in the slicer etc.).

In use, and on a long, hot print with the vent(s) closed there's a risk PLA could soften/deform as it fails around 55C. I never chanced it and printed mine in ABS as I had some to hand.

So, here's what I used altogether:

- About half a roll of ABS, check out the Bambu filament chart here to see other filaments & their heat tolerances

- (optional) 8 x standard woodworking dowels, 6 x 30mm long (these are what I used originally but I have included printable ones now)

- (optional) Four circular magnets 10mm dia, 3mm deep

- (optional) USB-powered LED strip – the one I designed the interior channel for was 8mm wide. Here it is on Amazon UK.

→ Print this quick calibration check here for peace of mind when making large models, it could save you some filament/hassle/money! (you just need the XY version, height isn't important on this job). ←

Construction

1 - Take the four main pieces and dry fit/dowel them together to check their size and fit with your printer and lid. Sand if necessary - not usually req'd - glue them together when you're happy.

2 - Snap the four strips to the underside (should be no need to glue them but you might need to shorten them slightly if you sanded the main body much).

3 – Put the vent strip(s) in its slot being sure to get the magnet holes toward the front. Push a dowel into the hole to act as the vent lever.

4 - Fit the LEDs – the P1S USB socket is at the front left behind the LCD, but I started sticking the LED strip CCW from the front right corner as the USB lead was long enough to reach (and tuck neatly inside the front lip).

→ As another user commented, the unit does block access to the SD slot. I've never needed to access mine, but worth pointing out in case it matters to you. ←