The Legend of Zelda - Map of Hyrule, from the NES version of Zelda.

Note: this is a model that has been abandoned by its creator, DarkApollo on Thingiverse. Its original URL was https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2138498 though because it is a deadlink it cannot be referenced as a remix with proper attribution. The original had the same CC/BY/NC Creative Commons license so I passed that along.

Modifications and Updates to the original:

• 3MF build plates arranged specifically to allow printing with a single AMS, using 4-colors at a time. See more about this below.
• The entire map has been colorized in Bambu Studio
• Custom direct painting in Bambu Studio to ensure no color leak-thru and best presentation (this took weeks)
• Numerous CAD replacements and repairs for too-delicate-to-print elements. (DO NOT ‘SPLIT TO OBJECTS’ IT WILL RUIN THE MODEL!)
• Each ‘room’ of the overworld map has been separated by 0.1mm to allow individual printing.
• Settings tuned for fastest possible print while maintaining detail of every element. This took a LOT of trial and error It is extremely important to use the .3MF as-is to achieve the same results as the photos, setting the layer height to more fine quality results in too-small elements falling off the print and spaghetti-fying.
• Frame in Print Profiles.
   

How to print:

1. HIGHLY recommended to use the Textured PEI plate for this print, it allows release of the parts after letting them sit for a few minutes very easiliy. The Smooth PEI plate and cool plates tended to stick when removing, and gluestick makes a mess with items this small.
2. Each plate's prime-tower preview shows the filament colors you'll need per print
3. Load up the first 4-colors, and then slice and print, continue for each plate.
4. Print the PDF below on a regular color printer - to use as a template to align the parts,
   1. Caution against gluing the parts directly to this page: you'll want to wait until you have everything printed first.
5. Take photos and post them here!

Colors Used:

• PolyMaker PolyTerra PLA - Sandstone (gives a nice sandy appearance but any beige will do)
• Inland PLA+ - White (this opaque white PLA, also known as a ‘cold white’ blocks colors from bleeding through)
• Bambu PLA Basic - Blue
• Bambu PLA Matte - Ash Gray
• Bambu PLA Basic - Bambu Green
• Bambu PLA Matte - Black
• Bambu PLA Basic - Brown

Though 7 colors are used, you only need a single AMS unit to print 4 of them at a time per build-plate.

Frame:

• Frame in Print Profiles, prints on X1/P1/A1 series as 2 pieces, .STL in raw files if anyone wants to recut for A1 mini
• Snaps together and fits all pieces
• Designed to fit inside of a 12.5x5.5 inch Shadow box picture frame like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CRBBM7NP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1
• Frame also uses Hilbert pattern for top surfaces, to achieve ‘lattice’ like appearance, change to your liking.
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Display Case: 

To fit inside of this display case: https://a.co/d/3qGe2rY, there is an additional print profile labeled ‘angled’. It sits at 20-degrees tilted, and has legs to prop it up that fit in holes in the 4 corners. The additional flat piece is to glue on the bottom to keep it flat, or else it would split in half on it's own weight.

FAQs:

• What is that pattern on the top of everything?
  • That is called the ‘Hilbert’ pattern, and can be changed in the Global settings to something else if prefered, this pattern appears more ‘random’ at this scale adding to more of a ‘rough’ look for the water, trees, terrain and ground.
• What if I have more than 1 AMS? I can print all 7 colors
  • I'm very jealous, haha, a full color version is forthcoming as a print profile soon.
• The little tree trunks look like fuzz while printing, what's going on?
  • During printing a lot of the under-sides of tree-lines look like they are failing, let them finish, they provide a proper amount of adhesion and elevation for the tree-lines. Some may fall off after printing, but they will be completely intact when done. Use CA glue to re-adhere them to the ‘floor’ if they fall off during assembly
• There's whisps everywhere!
  • You must use DRY filament to print this, at least below 30%, otherwise stringing will occur. For minor stringing, you can use a butane torch (like a creme brulee torch) to very very quickly, swipe past and they usually disappear. But be careful, you might melt a tree or two! best to use fine-tipped tweezers to pluck any whisps.
• Why does it look like there are 2 blues in the photos?
  • It's the same Bambu PLA basic, but I had to switch to the Textured PEI plate for easier release, interestingly, that blue shows up darker when printed on the textured plate vs the smooth. go figure.
• Do I really need the Textured PEI plate?
  • If you use a smooth sheet, just have a fine edged scraper or spudger to gently lift each piece, because you'll be flexing them, it may destroy them while trying to remove. Let them cool at least 5-10 minutes if you use a smooth plate before attempting to remove.
• I want this bigger/smaller!
  • Please do! and post your results for others as a print profile!
• Where did this come from?
  • An individual that goes by DarkApollo on Thingiverse. Its original URL was https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2138498. If you find a proper attributed post by DarkApollo, please let me know so that they can be properly attributed as a remix here as well. My contributions are primarily to be able to print this on a Bambu printer with an AMS without all of the trial and error I had to go through.
• How can I glue this together?
  • Use ‘CA’ glue, search amazon for ‘CA glue’ or ask your local hobby or craft shop.