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Machinist R8 Collet Block Set

Print Profile(2)

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X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1
A1 mini
H2D
H2D Pro
H2S
P2S
H2C
X2D
A2L

Heavy Duty version (10 walls)
Heavy Duty version (10 walls)
Designer
9.1 h
2 plates
4.8(12)

0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill (light duty version)
0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill (light duty version)
Designer
5.2 h
2 plates
5.0(1)

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Description

This is a set of R8 Collet Blocks for various machine tasks I included both a square and hex shaped block. They apparently don't sell these so I made my own.

***To get these to work well you will need a 7/16ths" - 20 TPI bolt and a fender washer or two.***

The washer will spread out the clamping pressure and keep from denting the bottom of the block or losing grip over time. The fit on these is pretty tight to allow the maximum amount of travel and torque control. I would recommend a little light oil inside to help making installation and removal easier. To remove a collet just thread the bolt into the back and use a vise or a clamp to help push it out. If you want them so the collets drop in easier, increase the print size by .25%, but you will sacrifice some clamping pressure. A good tap on the ground with the bolt sticking out of the bottom will free them up. I added some print modifiers so independent of your print settings the bottom of the collet well to the base of the model print solid this will keep this space from compressing and allow you to generate maximum clamping pressure on the collet. Use at least 4 walls. The more walls the better, but it will work fine with 4. If you plan on keeping them for a while and not having them be disposable I'd print them with maybe 10 or 15 walls.

Comment & Rating (18)

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Heavy Duty version (10 walls)
Printed very well in petg. Feels strong but required a decent amount of sanding to get a collet to fit well.
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Thanks but unfortunately like I’ve said before its a catch-22. The plastic gives more than a steel collet holder. To compensate for this and still be able to have the collets grab hard enough you need a super tight fit to get the maximum travel when the draw bar pulls the collet back. I oiled the inside of the socket and drew it in with a bolt and washer. When I’m done I thread a bolt into the back of the collet and tap the bolt with a mallet. If the collet doesn’t fit tightly you just won’t get the same grip strength with it that you can get with a looser fit with a steel collet holder.
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Heavy Duty version (10 walls)
a little tight BUT printed nice
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Thanks for the feedback. I debated over this issue. Just due to the nature of the R8 taper the tigher it is the more grab strength you get from the bolt/leadscrew pulling back into the socket. It still works printed at like 100.5% but the difference of holding force is significant. I tried to make it just tight enough that you can thread a bolt into the back and pop it out knocking it out on the floor. Thats why its a little tight though.
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I printed this in PETG. I will admit I was skeptical but they work great. Just be sure to add a touch of oil to the collet.
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That's a clever design, thank you!
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Heavy Duty version (10 walls)
Great design, and is very well built.
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Heavy Duty version (10 walls)
Beautiful design. I don't know why but my collets are too big to fit by just a tiny bit
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Nice idea great work
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Heavy Duty version (10 walls)
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Heavy Duty version (10 walls)
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Heavy Duty version (10 walls)
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License

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You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.