BC250 Case MKUU+ (FSP, Apevia, Metalfish PSU)

This is a remixed model originally created by the very talented morph91. Original model link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2749412-bc-250-gaming-pc-case-mk-ultra-uno. I'm naming this model the MK Ultra Uno Plus : )

Case Highlights:

• Can be printed in only 3 plates with less than 600g of filament
• Tool-less design (no screws required)
• Fits the FSP500-30AS, Apevia ITX flex, and Metalfish flex PSUs
• Customizable front plates
• Ability to fit 40 & 50 mm fans on rear
• Internal clips to attach both halves of case together securely & internal psu lock to securely hold psu in place without external latch
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• Heatsink mod (stick on heatsinks) to help improve thermals
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Important Considerations:

• There are two different versions of the fan shroud. One is the exact same as the original, the other is a modified version that allows active airflow to flow to stick on heatsinks that I personally made for my build. You can reference the assembly instructions for photos. Please make sure you only print the plate relevant for your build!
• Both the apevia and metalfish variants of the back case contain one less internal clip/latch due to space constraints. So these variants may be slightly less rigid when the two case halves are put together
• The internal psu lock was created specfically for the FSP500-30AS variant. It might fit the apevia variant, but will most likely not fit the metalfish variant. If someone prints either version, I'm more than happy to create a working psu lock for these versions. I just need accurate measurements and someone to test any prototypes. If you're interested then leave a comment/DM me : )

If anyone ends up printing the apevia or metalfish variants, please let me know if anything needs to be adjusted (besides the internal psu lock)! I used morph91's measurements for the metalfish variant and also lolheyaj's measurements for the apevia variant, since I do not personally own either of those psus. Also, as a temporary solution for the internal psu lock issue - you could probably use glue to keep the psu secure in the case as a temporary measure. If you have a different flex psu, and can take some accurate measurements for me - I am more than willing to create new versions to suit your psu (as long as dimensions fit the case)! : )

Expected Thermals:

Thermals may vary slightly, given differences in thermal paste and depending whether you use the stick on heatsinks like I did. Also depending on 24CU vs 40CU, fan curves, overclock, undervolts, etc. For reference here's my configuration:

• GPU: 40CU 2000MHz @940mV (+16CU and +500 MHz from stock)
• CPU: 3800MHz @1060mV (+300MHz from stock)

And here are some max temps from a couple games @1080p:

My Part List:

• BC250
• PSU (fsp500-30as, apevia itx flex, or metalfish flex)
• https://a.co/d/0gOMs9rW black petg
• https://a.co/d/04eTZ6sm for the two brown pla's from this bundle for my fake wood texture front panels
• makerworld.com/en/models/2527214-bc-250-scooper fin scooper to straighten fins
• https://a.co/d/0hZ28ifs for 12mm latching button (you may need a wire stripper, wire crimper, and dupont connectors if you copy me 1:1)
• https://a.co/d/0jdT5jNV arctic p12 pro pst
• https://a.co/d/0iLAR7Ty arctic mx-4 thermal paste
• (optional) https://a.co/d/063cMg66 noctua NF-A4x20
• (optional) https://a.co/d/00RnzoEo stick on heatsinks, I bought 2 of these kits and used 3 out of the 4 heatsinks
  • (optional) This looks to be a cheaper alternative: https://a.co/d/038s6cPO - it would be the same size as what I used, but as one large piece instead. Based on reviews, it looks like a thermal pad of some sort is already preapplied. If you end up buying this one, let me know how it fits!
• (optional) https://a.co/d/066uYDJ8 rubber anti vibration screws used to mount noctua 40mm fan

Print Instructions:

Print the main case components in PETG, and dry filament for 8 hours before printing (reduces stringing). Make sure to print only one of the fan shroud plates. For more information read the important considerations at the top.

If you want to make your front panel have the fake wood texture like mine, then use this as a modifier: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1492898-wood-grain-modifier-add-wood-grain-to-any-models?from=search#profileId-1560821. You can print the front panels in PLA. I recommend using a 0.2mm nozzle if you're doing the wood texture like I did.

If you are downloading the model to modify or use with a different slicer (and not bambu studio), then make sure to paint a straight line seam on the bottom part of back half of the case. This helps reduce VFAs:

Assembly Instructions:

1. Take off the IO shield and the small bracket next to cmos battery
2. Use the fin scooper to straighten the fins underneath where the fan shroud is gonna go. After straightening the fins, use an air duster to make sure any debris is blown off. Also if you haven't already, repaste the chip!
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3. Attach fan (recommend arctic p12 pro pst) with pins to fan shroud. Then attach fan shroud to pcb. Make sure the two small latches are pushed as far up as possible (in pic below you can see the one latch is in the corner of the pcb). Optionally here, if you have the stick on heatsinks (120x40x20mm), you can stick them right next to the fan slit. Doing this mod helped my ingame temps by 3-7C. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: If you do not have/don't plan to use stick on heatsinks print the plate with the original fan shroud instead!
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4. Put PSU into back half of case:
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5. Add psu lock on left side (currently only known compatible for fsp500-30as):
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6. Mount any 40mm fans now (both screws or rubber mounts work):
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7. Slide bc250 on alu backplate onto the back half of case. Plug in exhaust fan to the Y splitter of main fan. Plug in the 8 pin power cable:
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8. (optional) Place any lower custom front panels on now before you install your 12mm button
9. (This step is for FSP500-30AS psu, idk what pins to short for apevia/metalfish psus but you can probably find out on reddit) Plug in latching button to PS_ON and GND. I crimped the wires into two male dupont connectors and put them in a 2pin housing. I slightly have to bend the metal pins to fit into the psu which creates enough friction where the pins don't fall out. There's probably a better solution for this…
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10. Attach front half of case, and slide until both halves attach together. Enjoy!
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