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X2D Dual AMS 2 Pro Glass Riser

Print Profile(1)

All
X2D
A1
H2D Pro
P2S
H2D
H2C
H2S
A2L

0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 10% infill
0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 10% infill
Designer
23.4 h
14 plates

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
15
74
0
3
19
9
Released 

Bill of Materials

Bambu Filaments
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Blue (33600) / Filament with spool / 1 kg
Black (33102) / Filament with spool / 1 kg
Black (51100) / Filament with spool / 1 kg

Description

No supports, no glue, no screws, only about 1.1kg of filament, and 2 days of print time!

 

I wanted something simple that raised the glass and got my 2 AMS 2 Pro units off of my desk. This is what I came up with…

 

This is by far the largest model I have created to date. I recently purchased the X2D and wanted a place to mount my 2 AMS 2 Pro units. I also was very annoyed by the sound the PTFE tubes made hitting the glass all the time. This riser raises the glass by 18mm which, for me, has provided more than enough clearance to solve the anoying clicking sound and prevent wear on my tubes. My final product ended up with a bit more sag in the middle than I was hoping for, but I am very happy with its strength. I am not using any glue or fasteners. The way this thing is designed, it will not dissassemble itself unless something was to fail. I could probably get some sag out if I glued the parts together, but I want to be able to take it apart and make improvements in the future without having to repint the whole thing! Besides, I don't think these AMS units are going anywhere. There is a depression for the feet to prevent them from walking off the edge. I have run about 50 hours of prints since I put this thing up and it is holding up well so far.

 

During design, I printed some parts of an earlier version on my A1 and the parts fit together VERY tightly. Without changing the tolerances of the model, my final version was printed 100% on the X2D. These final parts fit together with a bit more wiggle room. While this can probably be partially (or majorially) attributed to the difference between a bed slinger and a core xy machine, I think this is also a good example of the differences you might experience from printer to printer. I am happy knowing that even with two different machines, I am able to put the thing together successfully.

 

The sides are SKADIS boards because I was lacking creativity and thought this was a decent solution for accessories storage. The boards are at 45 degrees so you will have to pick and choose what you use accordingly, but this is the 3D printing community after all - if what you want doesn't exist just create it! There is a little pin that gets inserted in the front corner brackets to hold the SKADIS boards in place when taking things on and off of it.

 

The parts are numbered to assist with assembly and I would be happy to provide instructions for assembly if needed, but it is honestly very self explanitory. The parts only go together one way. However, I will say the last things to go on are the supports that go front to back (blue in my printed version). I assembled the glass riser first, put in the TPU gaskets, built the front rail, then the back rail, connected them with the SKADIS boards, connected them with the front to back supports, then slid the whole thing down onto the sides of the glass riser. If you plan to use glue, I would certainly recommend making sure you understand how everything goes together first!

 

Boost Me (for free)

I consider all of my models a collaborative effort with the community and would very much welcome constructive criticism. I am always looking for ways to improve! Also, a boost here and there is very encouraging and much appreciated!

 

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