Search models, users, collections, and posts

Alien Jellyfish Wind Spinner v2

IP Report
GIF

Print Profile(3)

All
P1S
H2C
P2S
X1E
H2D
X1 Carbon
H2D Pro
A1
H2S
X1
A2L
P1P
X2D

Version 2.0 (threaded)
Version 2.0 (threaded)
Designer
15.1 h
5 plates
2.0(2)

Version 2.1 (threaded)
Version 2.1 (threaded)
Designer
14.3 h
5 plates

Version 2.2 (Latest)
Version 2.2 (Latest)
Designer
15.3 h
5 plates

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
189
503
34
16
214
87
Released 

Bill of Materials

Bambu Filaments
Select all
Matte Ivory White (11100) / Filament with spool / 1kg
Matte Charcoal (11101) / Filament with spool / 1kg
Matte Ivory White (11100) / Refill / 1kg
Matte Charcoal (11101) / Refill / 1kg

Description

Important Update

Please make sure to download the latest Version 2.2 print profile.

Version 2.2 replaces the threaded assembly system with a much simpler and significantly stronger plug-in connector design. The new connector uses a hexagonal shape that simply presses together, making assembly much faster and more reliable.

 

The tolerances have been tuned to provide a secure friction fit, so glue should not be necessary under normal conditions, although you are of course welcome to use it if you prefer.

 

An additional advantage of the new connector system is that the model will spin correctly regardless of which of the possible orientations the connector is inserted in. However, if you are assembling a full ring-shaped configuration, make sure all connectors are aligned consistently throughout the assembly.

Version 2.2 is currently the recommended version and should offer the best of durability, assembly ease, and performance.

 

I promised to release this version 2 on 28/05/26. The model itself is now largely finished, but I am still working on uploading better photos, renders, and a more detailed assembly guide. If this text is still here, it means those updates are still in progress.

Alien Jellyfish Wind Spinner -- Version 2

First of all, a huge thank you for all the feedback, comments, and testing from Version 1. It genuinely helped shape and improve this updated version. Many of the key changes in Version 2 come directly from issues and suggestions reported by users, especially regarding friction, assembly difficulty, and durability.

 

Printing: Overview

This overview accounts for all versions of the wind spinner 2.

 

Overview – Version 2 Improvements

This is Version 2 of the Alien Jellyfish Wind Spinner. The most notable changes, in order of importance, are:

  • Integrated print-in-place ball bearings in the rotational joints
  • Replaced previous connector system with threaded connectors for easier and more reliable assembly
  • Added new stand options and improved mounting capabilities
  • Optimized aerodynamics of the cup geometry for improved wind performance
  • Strengthened and refined connectors between spinning joints
  • Reinforced structural beams between wind cups for improved rigidity
  • Additional minor adjustments to reduce friction and improve overall durability
     

Design Changes & Engineering Notes

1. Bearing Integration

The added bearings were actually something I originally experimented with during the development of Version 1, but at the time I abandoned the idea because of the added complexity, increased development time, longer print times, and higher filament cost.

However, the friction in Version 1 ultimately proved to be the biggest limiting factor preventing the joints from spinning properly, so I revisited the earlier bearing prototypes and refined the design further.

 

Through extensive prototyping, I found that a cylindrical 45° zig-zag pattern provided the most stable solution for a print-in-place bearing system. The 45° overhang angle was also the practical limit of what I found could still be printed reliably without support. The zig-zag pattern repeats throughout the geometry wherever space allows.

 

I also performed extensive tolerance testing and found that an offset of 0.3 mm provided the tightest possible clearance while still allowing the bearings to roll smoothly. Long cylindrical shapes tended to jam or twist even at relatively loose tolerances, but the zig-zag pattern helps counteract this effect by acting almost like a guiding rail, allowing the cylinders to move more smoothly through the bearing assembly.

This redesign did increase the complexity, print time, filament usage, and overall size of the segments. However, it proved to be well worth the tradeoff, as it dramatically reduced friction in the spinning joints and ultimately allowed the entire sculpture to rotate in much lower wind speeds compared to Version 1, which required very strong winds to function properly.

This picture shows a section analysis in Fusion 360 of the integrated ball bearing system inside the segment joint.

2. Threaded Assembly System (Version 2.0 and Version 2.1)

For Version 2, I decided to abandon the assembly system used in Version 1 in favor of a threaded connection system. At a certain point, there is no reason to reinvent the wheel although implementing a reliable threaded solution for 3D printing ended up being easier said than done.

 

Fortunately, I already had some experience designing printable threads, but I still performed extensive testing to find the optimal tolerances for both easy assembly and a secure fit. Overall, I feel that threaded connections are much more intuitive and easier for most people to understand during assembly compared to the previous locking mechanism.

 

One additional challenge was ensuring that each segment would line up perfectly once the threads were fully tightened. This also required several prototype iterations before achieving consistent alignment between connected segments.

 

As with most design changes, there are still some drawbacks to the new system. Firstly, if the threaded connections are not fully tightened, they can actually be more fragile than the assembly system used in Version 1. Secondly, assembly still requires rotating the segments multiple times until the entire thread is fully seated and tightened, compared to Version 1 where the segments only needed a single twist-lock motion.

 

However, despite these drawbacks, the new threaded system proved to be well worth it. It is significantly more intuitive to assemble, aligns the segments more consistently, and provides a much tighter connection overall, giving the entire sculpture improved rigidity and stability.

These pictures show the male and female threaded connectors, both featuring a pointed tip to help guide and center the connection during assembly.

Threaded Assembly video:

 

3. Stand & Mounting System

The mounting system in Version 1 was more of an afterthought and left a lot to be desired. It lacked any real mounting capabilities and was essentially just a spike designed to stick into the ground.

 

For Version 2, I wanted to create a more modular system with multiple mounting options. The original spike stand has been redesigned to be more ergonomic and now includes mounting holes for screws or bolts. I also designed an alternative stand option featuring additional mounting points for more flexible installation possibilities.

 

For assembly, always begin from the stand and build the rest of the sculpture outward from there.

 

These images show the different stand configurations, mounting options, and assembly variations available in Version 2, including a 90°, 180°, 270° and 360° option.

4. Aerodynamic Cup Optimization

I also made several changes to the cup geometry on the rotating arms of the spinning joints. The entire model was scaled up slightly so that two segments fit perfectly on the build plate, while also allowing additional room to improve the aerodynamic surfaces.

 

Two larger additional cups were added for improved wind capture, and the shape of all the cups was refined for slightly better aerodynamic efficiency overall.

 

These changes did increase the filament usage slightly, but the larger size and optimized cup geometry significantly improved the wind-catching performance and overall rotational efficiency of the sculpture.

These photos compare the cup geometry of Version 2 (left) with Version 1 (right).

 

5. Structural Reinforcements

Version 1 had some issues with rigidity and overall structural integrity, especially under stronger wind loads and during assembly.

 

To improve this, I added triangular reinforcement structures between the cups and support arms. These reinforcements help maintain the optimal position and angle of the cups, prevent unwanted bending or deformation, and reduce the risk of the segments interfering with one another during rotation.

 

The added rigidity also improves aerodynamic efficiency by helping the cups maintain their intended orientation while spinning.

These images show the triangular reinforcement structures in greater detail.

6. Friction, Durability & Other Improvements

I added several smaller improvements focused on reducing friction and increasing durability.

 

The top of the segments where the male thread is located has been slightly chamfered to prevent interference and rubbing against the ball bearings during rotation. I also changed the slicing settings for the spinning segments to a random seam position to better distribute surface irregularities caused by layer seams.

In addition, I slightly redesigned the connector system between the spinning parts of the segments. The protruding rod was thickened, and the receiving arm was optimized to better guide and secure the connection while minimizing friction.

 

As in Version 1, I also reinforced potential weak points in the model by adding internal geometry that forces the slicer to generate additional wall layers in specific stress areas.

 

After seeing a user report a broken connector that could not be removed, I also added a hidden emergency removal slit that allows the part to be unscrewed if it fails in that exact location. This feature is only visible if the part breaks at that specific point.

 

Finally, I added a few subtle contour changes and minor cosmetic refinements to make the overall model cleaner and more visually appealing.

Notes on Version 2

  • The model is slightly larger than Version 1
  • Print time is increased
  • Material usage is higher, but still well under 1 kg of filament (for a full assembly with all mounts)
  • Designed for improved reliability, smoother motion, and easier assembly

Final Notes

Version 2 is a direct response to all the feedback from Version 1, with a strong focus on reducing friction, improving durability, and making assembly more intuitive and reliable.

Thank you to everyone who tested, commented, and shared feedback  it genuinely helped shape this improved design.

As always, I would really love to see your prints, makes, and any feedback or suggestions for further improvements.

 

 

Support & Additional Reading

If you would like to support my work, you can:

  • Boost the model
  • Purchase filament through the BOM links
  • Or join the commercial/support membership tier on my profile

Support genuinely helps fund future prototypes, filament, testing, and development for projects like this.

If you are interested in the full development story, you can also check out:

Thank you again to everyone who supported Version 1 and helped make Version 2 possible.

Comment & Rating (34)

(0/1000)

was waiting for V2. Anyone printed this in PETG?
1
Reply
also, there's some mesh artifacts at the bottom of the model. Bambu studio has no problem dealing with this. but Snorca, cant slice it.
1
Reply
Replying to @NemanjaC :
I started printing in PETG and also got the same error in Orca on my A1. I used lay on face and then printed. The start piece failed at the connector point, and every print so far has lifted from the bed in various places. I am going to try to glue on a new top - we will see if that works. I am using a freshly cleaned plate and spray adhesive. I have had to pause the print a number of times to glue down the tines that lifted in order to not scrap the entire print. I can try switching to Bambu to see if that makes a difference. I tried to enable a brim, but it only put one on one side of each piece, and I am not familiar with how to draw one. I did try adding mouse ears, but I got errors on that too. Will update when the first middle pieces finish, but if anyone has any suggestions let me know! That said, I really like it so far, and I hope I can finish it! The bearings are very smooth, and the pieces are quite light!
1
Reply
Replying to @rotielover :
Update: One failed printing the top - I think bed slingers are just going to be tricky with shaking it loose. I may try to print that part and glue it on, or perhaps slow down the print to 50%. I may size it down and print on my Core One as the A1 just seems like too many issues. I have options, but it is not working for me right now.
1
Reply
Print Profile
Version 2.0 (threaded)
After V1, and quite a bit of waste, I thought V2 would be better. It is, but... Since then I have tested Version2, which is better, but still problematic and in the end everything ends up in the trash... Once again you do an enormous job, but there are many assembly problems. The printing is perfect, it's the assembly that's wrong. Either it's too tight, or it doesn't turn correctly when assembling 2 blades that don't align with the previous one and even less with the next one. I will continue to follow you, because the idea is excellent, but I'm stopping printing to throw away (already a few kilos). When there is a V4 that works, I'll take it. And once again I encourage you because it's a lot of work
The profile uploader has replied
Show original
profile
3
Reply
Thank you for the honest feedback and for giving both versions a chance.There are definitely still some issues that need to be ironed out. One of the biggest challenges has been balancing easy assembly, durability, alignment, and tolerances all at the same time. Improving one area often creates compromises in another.At this point, I am seriously considering a design that uses glue for assembly instead, as it would eliminate many of the alignment and tolerance issues.Thank you again for the encouragement and detailed feedback. It really helps guide future versions.
(Edited)
2
Reply
Replying to @Dinmor :
Thank you for your commitment and perseverance
Show original
0
Reply
how many fins need to be printed?
The designer has replied
designer
3
Reply
14 fins for the ring version and less for the other configurations, i will add an assembly guide soon.
0
Reply
Only one failed fin out of the twelve on the final male thread… Have an issue with the start fin though. The mail thread on the post is too large for the female connector on the start fin which is weird as it fits the end connector (female) where it isn’t supposed to go. The male fin thread still fits in the end connector from the standard fins but a loose fit. I destroyed the start fin trying to force it so I’m just a start and a standard fin away from completing. what is the likely issue for this. could you perhaps check your program?? look forward to your response.
The designer has replied
0
Reply
Used v2.1 by the way….
0
Reply
I think I may know what the issue is. The way I organized the model parts in my CAD project could definitely have been better, and it is possible that I accidentally mixed up some of the different tolerance versions I was testing before uploading the files to MakerWorld.Could you tell me which print profile you used and which specific part or parts are causing the problem? If possible, please use the names shown in the Printing Overview image in the description.That would help me identify the issue and get it fixed as quickly as possible.
0
Reply
straight from my phone so don’t have files but it’s plate 4 for the stand and plate 5 for the start and end pieces. all from V2.1. as I said I just need the start piece with and larger female connector to suit the stand.
0
Reply
Directly a boost from me 🫡
The designer has replied
Show original
designer
2
Reply
Thank you very much, appreciate the support!
1
Reply
I just wanted to the first to say how much I've been looking forward to V2.
The designer has replied
designer
2
Reply
great to hear, hope it lives up to your expectations
0
Reply
Beautiful project, can it be made in PETG, since it will be outdoors? Doesn't it rotate on its own axis?
The designer has replied
Show original
designer
1
Reply
Thank you!I don't see any reason why it couldn't be printed in PETG for outdoor use. I don't use PETG myself, so I haven't tested it, but if you run into any issues you may need to tweak the print settings slightly.As for rotating on its own axis, I'm not entirely sure what you mean, but it rotates in the same way as Version 1.
0
Reply
I've been really looking forward to this! I'm in the middle of printing the first plate in yellow PLA. :)
designer
1
Reply
Worth the wait hopefully. Just started mine in yellow too.
designer
1
Reply
Hello I printed the first version but some assembly issues nothing dramatic but it has a lot of trouble turning I will test this version which seems much more studied (I am not criticizing version 1 :) ) I will print it as soon as possible and get back to you with nice photos
The designer has replied
Show original
0
Reply
Thank you! Yes, Version 2.3 should be both much more durable and easier to assemble, especially regarding the rotation. I look forward to seeing your results and photos.
0
Reply
Boosted
tried ver 1, looking forward to printing and trying ver 2. Thank you for this project
1
Reply

License

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.