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Angled Front Grip for Picatinny Rail

Print Profile(1)

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P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E

0.08mm layer, 4 walls, 100% infill
0.08mm layer, 4 walls, 100% infill
Designer
32.2 h
4 plates

Open in Bambu Studio
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Bill of Materials

Maker's Supply Kits and Parts
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M3 Carbon Steel Hex Nut (20PCS) - AB005
M3x30 BHCS Machine Screw (5PCS) - AA063
Bambu Filaments
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Black (51100) / Filament with spool / 1 kg
Black(30105) / Filament with spool / 1kg
Black (12104) / Filament with Spool / 1kg
List other parts
  • 18-8 Stainless Steel Thin-Profile Hex Nut M3 x 0.5 mm x 4: McMaster 90710A030 is a pack of 100

Description

This is an angled ar-15 fore grip with a baracade stop that attaches to an ar-15 handguard with a standard picatinny rail. 

 

This fore grip is modeled to improve on other ar-15 grips that emulate the look of an FN PS90.

 

This model includes 3 interchangeable soft rubber tpu grips:

  •  One with an indent for a right handed shooter
  •  One with an indent for a left handed shooter
  •  One without any indent at all (my favorite for the range).

The front of the grip is intended as a baracade stop. Unike others, I chose specifically not to include a giant gaping hole in the spot where you'll bang it against a wall. My design philosophy is durability over gimmicks like a quick release sling mount.

 

If you don't have a picatinny rail on the underside of your hand guard, they're easy to print and widely available online in aluminum. I am very satisfied with this model, I don't intend to make it natively m-lok or keymod.

 

I am not using this for airsoft and I don't expect many others will, either. I recommend printing this with a 0.4mm nozzle (the standard), a  minimum of 4 walls, and at least 50% infill.

 

Print in the orientation of my model with the baracade stop at the top. I intentionally baked angles into the model so the walls aren't stacked perfectly on top of each other. This significantly strengthens the parts by making a subtle 🧱 brick wall pattern.

 

Does Bambu handy still strip out fuzzy skin?  Idk, but I prefer the TPU parts between 20% and 50% infill with basic fuzzy skin.

 

You'll need hardware. It's designed for 4x M3 x 30 Button Head screws and 4x slim M3 JAM nuts (mcmaster PN 90710A030 or equivalent).  You can use M3 x 30 Socket Heads and M3 regular nuts (listed below), but it won't look as pretty. The recess for the screwhead and the nuts is sized correctly for the narrower hardware, other stuff will be slightly proud of the plastic. It's barely noticeable, but worth mentioning.

 

If you print this, please let me know what filaments you used and how it went! My filament choices were thoroughly dried sunlu pla+ magenta, creality PETG magenta, and sunlu TPU. I strongly recommend against pla-cf and petg-cf for ANY part that might regularly come in contact with your skin.

 

 

Comment & Rating (5)

(0/1000)

the 2 objects are in the stl, and they are the same object so they cannot be printed with different materials and the tpu grip is already in the main object as well so you wouldnt be able to put the tpu part onto the main part cause theres no space to put it.. cant find any sense
The designer has replied
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Added models for individual parts
(Edited)
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Replying to @notcreativeatm :
Oh nice!, Thanks! Will print and post pic
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I am planning to print this today for my firearm. I just wanted to ask if it is necessary to add modifiers to strengthen the screw holes? I have printed a few other models but even trough I was careful about tightening, they all got broken from either holes or tightening rails.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
designer
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I didn't add modifiers when printing mine, since the wall count is fairly high for a 0.4mm nozzle. The geometry is already solid (print profile should be 100% infill). It can't hurt to print all-walls if that concerns you. Heads up, though, that you'll see there are two sets of two screws. One set is for registering against the picatinny rail and isn't really meant to torqued down. I don't think anything will break, but the intent was to tighten those just enough to prevent them from coming undone. The actual clamps will do the clamping.
(Edited)
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License

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.