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RPG • Dollhouse • Mini: Victorian Era Bathtub 1

IP Report
This model is created by Image to 3D
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Print Profile(1)

All
A1 mini
X1 Carbon
X1
X1E
A1
H2S
P1S
H2D
X2D
H2C
H2D Pro
P1P
P2S
A2L

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Designer
2.4 h
1 plate
5.0(1)

Open in Bambu Studio
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47
148
8
0
17
8
Released 

Description

This collection of Victorian-era items is designed to bring classic interior spaces to life in a practical and accessible way. Each piece is modeled with a focus on clean forms, recognizable silhouettes, and reliable printability, making them well-suited for tabletop scenes, dioramas, and display environments. The goal is to provide a flexible library of period-appropriate objects that can be mixed, matched, and reused to build complete rooms or detailed settings without unnecessary complexity.

 

In the "Victorian Home" these are found:

Bathrooms / WC -  -  - 

 

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Some of the Items in This Series.  200+ in all.

Victorian Era Abacus

Victorian Era Armchairs

Victorian Era Armoire

Victorian Era Bathtubs

Victorian Era Beds

Victorian Era Benches

Victorian Era Billiard tables

Victorian Era Books

Victorian Era Butter churns

Victorian Era Card tables

Victorian Era Carriages

Victorian Era Chairs

Victorian Era Cast-iron range

Victorian Era China cabinet

Victorian Era Clocks

Victorian Era Coffee grinders

Victorian Era Desks

Victorian Era Garden tools

Victorian Era Gramophone

Victorian Era Jewelry Boxes

Victorian Era Lamps

Victorian Era Lockers

Victorian Era Piano

Victorian Era Sofas

Victorian Era Tables

Victorian Era Telephone

Victorian Era Tool chest

Victorian Era Toy Chest

Victorian Era Wheelbarrow

 

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⚠️ Print & Handling Notes

These models include fine, delicate details.
A strong filament is recommended — or anneal your set for additional strength (see below).

 

Bambu Studio Settings

Printer Settings

• Nozzle Diameter → 0.4 mm

• Compatible Material → PLA+

 

Filament Settings

• Nozzle Temperature (first layer) → 205 °C

• Nozzle Temperature (others) → 200 °C

• Bed Temperature (first layer) → 60 °C

• Bed Temperature (others) → 50–55 °C

• Cooling Fan:

◦ Layer 1–2 → OFF

◦ Layer 3+ → 100%

 

Quality

• Layer Height (Standard) → 0.20 mm

• Initial Layer Height → 0.20 mm

• Line Width → 0.45 mm

• Elephant Foot Compensation → 0.15 mm

 

Speed

• First Layer Speed → 20 mm/s

• Outer Wall Speed → 35 mm/s

• Inner Wall Speed → 50 mm/s

• Infill Speed → 50 mm/s

• Travel Speed → 120 mm/s

 

Acceleration / Jerk

• Default Acceleration → 1000 mm/s²

• Outer Wall Acceleration → 500 mm/s²

• First Layer Acceleration → 300 mm/s²

• Travel Acceleration → 2500 mm/s²

• Jerk (XY) → 8 mm/s

 

Strength / Infill

• Wall Loops → 3

• Top Layers → 4

• Bottom Layers → 4

• Infill Density → 20%

• Infill Pattern → Gyroid

• Sparse Infill Anchor Length → 5 mm (🔔 Note: increase to 10 mm if you see weak infill connections)

 

Skirt & Brim

• Skirt Loops → 3

• Skirt Distance → 2 mm

• Skirt Layers → 1

 

Retraction

• Retraction Distance → 4 mm

• Retraction Speed → 40 mm/s

• Z-Hop → 0.2 mm

• Wipe While Retracting → Enabled

• Retract on Layer Change → Disabled

• Minimum Travel Before Retraction → 1.0 mm

 

Supports

• Support Style → Tree

• Top Contact Z Distance → 0.25 mm (detachable, fixed)

• Support Density → 15%

• Support Interface Pattern → Grid

• XY Distance → 0.5 mm

• First Layer Support Gap → 0.3 mm

 

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♨️ ANNEALING — Hardening Your Chess Pieces

Annealing your PLA models can improve strength by 10 – 20 %.
If you plan to play with these sets regularly, annealing is highly recommended.

If your goal is display or occasional play, annealing is optional.
The appearance and finish remain unchanged.

🔗 More info: Annealing PLA Prints for Strength — Easy Ways (All3DP)

https://all3dp.com/2/annealing-pla-prints-for-strength-easy-ways/

 

 

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Please note: 

Because I’m retired and on a fixed income, I print these models at a smaller scale to save on filament. All of these models are printed at 70% - 80% of the model uploaded size. 

♟️

Thank you!  Thank you!  To all of you who Boost my uploads.  Because of YOU I can get my filament now from “Maker's Supply”, saving me from using real money. 

♟️

These creations are made purely for the joy of sculpting and sharing. Printing at a reduced scale can sometimes affect the quality of fine details; printing at full or larger sizes will yield smoother, more refined results.

♟️

Also, as a 77-year-old maker with hands that sometimes have a mind of their own, I occasionally have to use a little hot-glue surgery to reattach delicate parts. Please handle models with care—especially thin necks, joints, and fragile connectors. Take a moment to study your model before removing supports… or you might find yourself reaching for the glue gun too! 🥲


 

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Comment & Rating (8)

(0/1000)

Great work, I'd like to know if you have a way to provide the file partitioned to print the feet and golden details separately, like in the photo you posted
The designer has replied
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Replying to @ClydeB3 :
Thank you for the partnership and help. I'm new to the 3D world. I'll use these separate parts, but the other golden details are still there, for example the water pipes. I can't remove them in the Bambulab separator because the cuts are straight. By any chance, if you separated them, could you share the golden items and the bathtub separately? Thank you very much if you can.
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Replying to @user_2848949929 :
HERE: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2871746-request-victorian-era-bathtub-in-parts Providing only the tub without feet and plumbing is extremely time consuming. Beyond the time I can dedicate to this project. Sorry.
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what scale are these. I need 1/12 and am still trying to figure this all out.
The designer has replied
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Hello User. First off, thanks for your inquiry. 1/12 is 1 inch is 1 foot. So, If you have 8 inch high ceilings in the dollhouse, that would be 8 foot high ceilings. Nine foot would be 9 foot hight ceilings. First off is to find "something" in or on the dollhouse that you can say; "In the real world this is (X) feet long/high/wide." You would use that "for sure" measurement as a guage for all items that you would place into the house. After have established this, then you scale the object/model in your slicer app to that height/width/depth. Hope this helps. If you are not using a computer and slicer app you have to guess. A real pain. Best of luck. ~Clyde
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
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License

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.