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NZXT H1 Back Fan Mod

Remixed by

Print Profile(1)

All
P1S
X1 Carbon
H2C
H2D Pro
P2S
H2S
X2D
P1P
X1
H2D
A1
A2L
X1E

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
11.2 h
3 plates

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
1
11
3
0
10
3
Released 

Bill of Materials

Maker's Supply Kits and Parts
Select all
100W USB-C Smart Soldering Iron Kit
Heat-Stake Nut Tool Tip Set
M3x5x4 Round Threaded Brass Heat-Insert Nut (20PCS) - AB012
M3x8 BHCS Machine Screw (20PCS) - AA058
Bambu Filaments
Select all
Black (33102) / Filament with spool / 1 kg
List other parts
  • Superglue x 1:
  • 140x140x27mm PWM Fans x 2:
  • M4 Nuts x 12:
  • M4X12 Screws x 12:

Description

Boost Me (for free)

<3

What you'll need:

  • 2x ARCTIC P14 PWM PST 140mm fans
  • Noctua NA-SEC1 extension cable (optional - my cable didn't reach the motherboard)

     

  • 8x M4*12 screws and nuts to mount the fans

    You can use your preferred mounting method (zip ties, long fan screws, rubber fan mounts etc.)

  • 4x M3 heat inserts (I used M3x4x5)
  • 4x M3*8 button head screws for the clip on balls (you can use longer screws)

     

  • Superglue 
  • Soldering iron for the heat inserts
  • Hacksaw (optional - to use the back grill as front cover, replacing the glass for extra airflow)

     

Instructions:

  1. Glue the 2 pieces together, don't overdo it, the fan will hold them together
  2. Mount the fans and use the side grooves for cable management

    Ideally you will route the cable towards the top side of the case to use the PSU cable management for the Noctua cable extension

  3. Put the heat inserts in and screw the M3*8 screws inside the clip on balls, then screw them in.
  4. Route your cable extension if you fan cable won't reach your motherboard, you can use the PSU velcro strips to guide the cable towards the back of the case. Leave a bit of room to be able to open the back case. When you close the back make sure to tuck in the cable to not touch the fans.
  5. Use a hacksaw or a powerful clip to cut the left small knob from the back grill to be able to use it in the front, instead of the glass

     

Ideal airflow config:

  • Noctua NH-L12S CPU cooler

    - Put the cooler in clearance mode if your ram is higher than 30mm or if the heatsink fan touches your motherboard, I'm using MSI B550i and clearance mode was the only option

    - Leave the cooler in low profile mode (below the heatsink) and use the default AIO 140mm cooler above (screw in instead of the AIO)
    Both fans should take cold air from outside the case and blow hot air on the motherboard

  • 2x 140x140x27mm (or slimmer) fans

    Both fans should take hot air from inside the case (CPU, GPU and PSU) and blow it outside

     

The print profile was made for PETG HF

- Aux Fan was set to 0%
- Textured plate only

- Close printer door and lid

- Initial layer temperature increased from 70°C to 80°C
- Added 15mm brim because the print is pretty thin and tall

- Changed support settings for easier removal without damaging the print
 

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