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F1 Starting Grid Displays for Mainline Diecast

Print Profile(10)

All
P1S
H2D Pro
H2S
X1 Carbon
H2C
X1E
P1P
A1
H2D
P2S
X1
X2D
A2L

4 car version with F1 logo (no screw holes)
4 car version with F1 logo (no screw holes)
Designer
2.7 h
1 plate
5.0(1)

8 car version with F1 logo (no screw holes)
8 car version with F1 logo (no screw holes)
Designer
5.1 h
2 plates

8 car version with F1 logo (with screw holes)
8 car version with F1 logo (with screw holes)
Designer
5.2 h
2 plates

8 car version no logo (no screw holes)
8 car version no logo (no screw holes)
Designer
4.9 h
2 plates
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Open in Bambu Studio
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2
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Released 

Bill of Materials

Bambu Filaments
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Jade White (10100) / Filament with spool / 1kg
Black (10101) / Filament with spool / 1kg
Red (10200) / Filament with spool / 1kg

Description

Boost Me (for free)

If you find this model useful, I would greatly appreciate your support! It's like DRS, but for me, it allows me to create more models! Even if you don't offer additional support, please don't forget to rate it and share pictures!

This is a starting grid display stand designed for mainline diecast F1 cars  There are options for 4 cars, 8 cars, or you can use the expansion plate with the 8 cars to add even more!  There are profiles for wall-mount or without screw holes.

 

The separate parts of the "road surface" are designed to fit together tightly, so you may need to align the dovetail part on a hard surface (such as a tabletop) and gently tap it with a hammer or other heavy object to lock it in place.

 

The mounting bracket secures the race car to the grille. See the images and GIF video below for instructions on how to attach the race car to the bracket/grille. No glue is required; the bracket uses a tight pressure fit. Once the race car and bracket are in place, you can fully snap it into place by placing the grille on a hard, flat surface (such as a table) and pressing down on the "road surface" near the F1 car. If you want to remove it from the grille, simply lift the rear of the race car slightly to allow you to insert a tool or your fingers, press down on the rear of the bracket, and swing it in the opposite direction of the mounting.

If the model will be placed in a high-temperature area or under direct sunlight, you might want to consider using PETG, as the hooks used to secure the race car are very thin and need to fit properly. I haven't done long-term testing on PLA yet, but this is just an idea to consider if you have any concerns.

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License

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.