Weapons: Early-High Medieval 800-1400 CE ~ 12+ tot

Series 4: Medieval Weapons

When I asked an AI the following question; “Could you please tell me at what period during history this set of weapons were used?”

I got this reply;

Most of these are typical of the early–high medieval period (roughly 800–1400 CE), with a strong match to Viking Age through High Medieval weapon types.

Reasons (brief):

• Single-bit and bearded-style axes,short wooden hafts and simple forgedheads → common Viking Age (c. 800–1100) and continued into medievalEurope.
• Small hammers/war‑hammers andflanged heads → used from earlymedieval into High Medieval for fightingagainst mail and early plate.
• Simple blades, chisels and tool-likepieces mixed in — some items look likewoodworking/tools that coexisted withweapons across many centuries, so afew could be non-military tools.

Alternative: if these are modern reproductions or mixed tool set, they could be assembled from different periods; visually they most closely match 9th–13th century Northern/Western Europe.

Then I asked;

Would you want to take a 'stab' (pun intended) at naming these weapons left to right? :-)

The reply;

1. Broad “bearded”/Dane-style axe
2. Hand-axe / hatchet
3. Light bearded axe (utility/combat)
4. Small war hammer / hammer-pick
5. Short poll/maul (blunt hammer)
6. Horseman’s pick / pickaxe-style warpick
7. Long hafted war-hammer / smallpollaxe head
8. Broad chopper / cleaver-style blade(tool or short axe)
9. Heavy chisel or froe (wood-workingtool)
10. Lead/stone throwing weight or plumbbob (could be a slingweight)
11. Leather field pouch / bag (not aweapon)
12. Small awl / punch (tool)
13. Hooked drawknife or sickle-like tool(could be agricultural)
14. Seax / short single-edged knife

Many items are tool-like or ambiguous; several forms were used both as tools and improvised weapons in the Viking–Medieval period.

That's it.  here are some images:

Other AVAILABLE ‘Weapon Themed’ Models

1. Medieval Weapons - Used via Persian/Greek Battles found HERE
2. RPG Swords - 15 Different - Series 3 found HERE
3. Medieval Weapons Updated Miniatures RPG 76 total found HERE

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⚠️ Print & Handling Notes

These models include fine, delicate details.
A strong filament is recommended — or anneal your set for additional strength (see below).

Bambu Studio Settings

Printer Settings

• Nozzle Diameter → 0.4 mm

• Compatible Material → PLA+

Filament Settings

• Nozzle Temperature (first layer) → 205 °C

• Nozzle Temperature (others) → 200 °C

• Bed Temperature (first layer) → 60 °C

• Bed Temperature (others) → 50–55 °C

• Cooling Fan:

◦ Layer 1–2 → OFF

◦ Layer 3+ → 100%

Quality

• Layer Height (Standard) → 0.20 mm

• Initial Layer Height → 0.20 mm

• Line Width → 0.45 mm

• Elephant Foot Compensation → 0.15 mm

Speed

• First Layer Speed → 20 mm/s

• Outer Wall Speed → 35 mm/s

• Inner Wall Speed → 50 mm/s

• Infill Speed → 50 mm/s

• Travel Speed → 120 mm/s

Acceleration / Jerk

• Default Acceleration → 1000 mm/s²

• Outer Wall Acceleration → 500 mm/s²

• First Layer Acceleration → 300 mm/s²

• Travel Acceleration → 2500 mm/s²

• Jerk (XY) → 8 mm/s

Strength / Infill

• Wall Loops → 3

• Top Layers → 4

• Bottom Layers → 4

• Infill Density → 20%

• Infill Pattern → Gyroid

• Sparse Infill Anchor Length → 5 mm (🔔 Note: increase to 10 mm if you see weak infill connections)

Skirt & Brim

• Skirt Loops → 3

• Skirt Distance → 2 mm

• Skirt Layers → 1

Retraction

• Retraction Distance → 4 mm

• Retraction Speed → 40 mm/s

• Z-Hop → 0.2 mm

• Wipe While Retracting → Enabled

• Retract on Layer Change → Disabled

• Minimum Travel Before Retraction → 1.0 mm

Supports

• Support Style → Tree

• Top Contact Z Distance → 0.25 mm (detachable, fixed)

• Support Density → 15%

• Support Interface Pattern → Grid

• XY Distance → 0.5 mm

• First Layer Support Gap → 0.3 mm

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♨️ ANNEALING — Hardening Your Chess Pieces

Annealing your PLA models can improve strength by 10 – 20 %.
If you plan to play with these sets regularly, annealing is highly recommended.

If your goal is display or occasional play, annealing is optional.
The appearance and finish remain unchanged.

🔗 More info: Annealing PLA Prints for Strength — Easy Ways (All3DP)

https://all3dp.com/2/annealing-pla-prints-for-strength-easy-ways/

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Please note: 

Because I’m retired and on a fixed income, I print these models at a smaller scale to save on filament. All of these models are printed at 70% - 80% of the model uploaded size. 

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Thank you!  Thank you!  To all of you who Boost my uploads.  Because of YOU I can get my filament now from “Maker's Supply”, saving me from using real money. 

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These creations are made purely for the joy of sculpting and sharing. Printing at a reduced scale can sometimes affect the quality of fine details; printing at full or larger sizes will yield smoother, more refined results.

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Also, as a 77-year-old maker with hands that sometimes have a mind of their own, I occasionally have to use a little hot-glue surgery to reattach delicate parts. Please handle models with care—especially thin necks, joints, and fragile connectors. Take a moment to study your model before removing supports… or you might find yourself reaching for the glue gun too! 🥲