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G-SCALE WARREN BRIDGE - MODULAR SYSTEM

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X1 Carbon
P1S
X1
P2S
X2D
H2D
H2S
A1
H2C
P1P
A1 mini
H2D Pro
X1E
A2L

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
7.6 h
1 plate
3.0(1)

Open in Bambu Studio
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23
72
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2
41
9
Released 

Description

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Assembly and Printing Instructions

🚂 G-Scale Warren Truss Bridge – Modular Snap-Fit System

This highly detailed, parametric truss bridge for garden railways (G-Scale / 45mm) is designed as a robust, modular kit. Thanks to the intelligent Snap-Fit System, it can be assembled with extreme stability and almost entirely without glue. New Update: The bridge ends are realistically optimized for abutments (foundations) – the lower outer gusset plates are completely solid so the bridge rests perfectly flat on your masonry or concrete!

đŸ› ïž Step 1: Part Export from OpenSCAD

Please do not load the complete view into the slicer! The model uses OpenSCAD as a "parts factory".

  1. Open the .scad file in OpenSCAD.
  2. In the right-hand menu under [Display & Print Options], select the desired individual part from the dropdown menu (e.g., middle_piece).
  3. Press F6 (Render) and then F7 (export as STL).
  4. Repeat this for all required building blocks:
    • End pieces (Left/Right)
    • Middle pieces
    • Chords (Top/Bottom chord, Middle/End)
    • Crossbeams

đŸ’» Step 2: Slicing (e.g., in Bambu Studio)

Drag the exported STL files onto your build plates.

  • Multiply parts: Use the clone function of your slicer. For a longer bridge, you will need correspondingly more crossbeams and middle pieces.
  • Orientation: 

    * Note: If you print the side panels standing up without the top chords attached, you might even get away without supports. 

    • End pieces (Left/Right) → print standing up, with tree supports 
    • Middle pieces → print standing up, with tree supports
    • Chords (Top/Bottom, Middle/End)  → print standing up (regardless of whether they are solid beams or I-beams) 
    • Crossbeams → print laying flat with the rivets facing up, with tree supports

Recommended Print Settings:

  • Material: For outdoor use, it is mandatory to use PETG, ASA, or ABS. PLA will deform in the summer heat!
  • Layer Height: 0.16 mm or 0.20 mm for a clean finish on the rivets.
  • Wall Loops: At least 3 to 4 walls for maximum mechanical stability of the snap-fit hooks.
  • Wall Generator: Arachne (ensures more precise tolerances for the joints).

🔧 Step 3: Assembly

The system is designed to be foolproof. The asymmetrical holes only allow for correct assembly.

1. Preparing the Crossbeams: The crossbeams are identical for top and bottom, but they are rotated differently:

  • Bottom (Track level): The large gusset plates (wind bracing) face downward (towards the ground). The small snap hooks face upward (towards the train).
  • Top (Roof level): Rotate the crossbeam by 180 degrees! The wind bracing faces upward (towards the sky), the snap hooks face downward (towards the train). This keeps the clearance gauge completely free for your trains.

2. Attaching the Walls:

  • Take the finished side walls (end and middle pieces) and push the crossbeams through the square cutouts.
  • Abutment Note: No crossbeams are installed at the very bottom of the outermost ends of the bridge. The gusset plates there are closed (true to the original) so the bridge can rest flat on your layout's masonry!

3. Attaching the Chords:

  • The top and bottom chords (the long rails) are now inserted from the outside into the forks of the gusset plates.
  • The snap hooks of the crossbeams lock into the milled grooves inside the chords, securing the entire system with a "click".
  • Optional: A tiny drop of superglue in the forks of the chords makes the bridge absolutely storm-proof.

Comment & Rating (8)

(0/1000)

Great model! I definitely need this bridge! Respect - openSCAD... I don't know it yet though. I want a bridge with a length of 70 cm. Input Width... is it width or length? I guess length! (Width: you take a board, you make the substructure yourself, because in 3D I only get the side parts?) Why should the parts be "laid down"? In 3mF they also stand... and only in this way can you print without support structure, will the rivets also be good? Can't I simply print the parts from 3mF in my H2D... without SCAD modification? I would find it good... if there was also a "quick fix". Can I do this... print directly from 3MF? ( +/- 10 cm length wouldn't matter to me!) PS: A short SCAD help explanation video would be good, because even if I choose "corner part", I get an assembly with the beams, see photo, black part in front of the red standard parts... from the 3mF. Thanks for your support in advance!
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I just found this today and I just started a part to see how it will go.
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this would be impossible to print laying flat, even standing there are overhangs that need some support or the print sags. this is a great model that may need some supports to get it right.
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Replying to @Maxxcreeper :
yes ... but so i read in the text "should be printed flat" ... is this a mistake ? Also on the plate ... i ve seen all standing ! Also in text: All optimized for "printing without any support" ... so it should be ?!
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Sturdy but not scale looking
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"Thanks for the feedback! You are absolutely right – the design intentionally prioritizes sturdiness and 3D-printability over perfect scale realism.Since it's intended for outdoor garden railways, the profiles, gusset plates, and rivets are designed a bit thicker. This ensures the bridge survives weather, mechanical stress, and allows the snap-fit joints to work reliably without fragile parts breaking.However, the beauty of this project is that it's fully parametric! Through the OpenSCAD customizer, anyone is free to adjust the material thickness, beam widths, and rivet sizes to achieve a much more delicate and scale-accurate look for their own specific layout."
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