Anomura 1lb Antweight Combat Robot

Anomura is an Antweight Combat robot that competed at MRCA ranked events in 2025 under the name “Brachyura”

The robot was originally designed in 2020 even though it didn't compete until 2025. This was my first CAD, first robot, and how I learned to 3D print. It was originally designed to be all CF Nylon, but since this material was no longer viable by the time it competed, it was changed to “TPU Carbon Fiber Sandwich” before it's first event. It also received a few hard upgrades during it's combat season until it got to the point it sits at now.

Main Screws:

M2x8 button head for drive x4

m4x10 + M4 nut button head for arms x2

m4x30 + M4 nut button head for chassis x5

m3x6 for weapon motor (Use m3x8 + m3 washers for TPU anti-horizontal motor armor) x4

#6-32 x 3/8" button head for weapon bar. x4

M2x12 + M2 nut button head for Power switch X2

M3x8 + M3 nut for cable guard. (I recommend just using a zip tie instead of the cable guard. It's as effective for less weight and easier)

Weapon Bars:

This supports up to 6" weapon bars using the Fingertech hole pattern. I used the Fingertech Bloodsport 6" bar, and 5.5" Bloodsport Tribar, and the Little Slugger Blade from "Antweight Undercutter Combat Robot" by Lord_Toby on thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5202939/files

TPU settings:
I used Polymaker 95a TPU for all TPU components except the TPU wheels, which was 90a.
.4 nozzle, 5 walls. .2mm Layer height 3 top, 3 bottom. 5% gyroid infill

This is based off using JST connectors and an 83g weapon bar. Using different weapon bars, connectors, electronics etc may cause these settings to need to be changed.

Bot Parts Used:
Fingertech Mini Power Switch
Palm Beach Bots Edition Ready to Sky 35A Brushless ESC (Or Repeat Robotics Ready to sky 35a esc)
Repeat Robotics Dual Brushed ESC for Ant Drive
GNB 380mAh 3S 90c/180c LiHV
Fs2a 4 channel mini receiver
Fingertech Snap Hubs or Repeat Robotics Gold Eco Hub
2" Foam Wheels
Repeat Robotics 2822 Direct Drive V2 1100kv Motor
Alternative Motor: PBB 2822 4mm shaft 1100kv Motor + Fingertech Blade Mount

Carbon Fiber:
The top plate the weapon motor mounts to is 3mm Carbon Fiber
The bottom plate is 2mm Carbon Fiber. 
If you try SRPP for the bottom plate to make it thicker you will need longer chassis M4 than the 30mm listed earlier.

Optional:

If using Palm Beach Bots 2822 + Fingertech Weapon Mount:
#6-32 x 1/8" Set Screw for side of FT Mount X1

Top Plate No WMCA Logo
There's a top plate added without my dumb WolfManCrabArms logo on it

If using TPU wheels instead of Foams:
TPU 90
Spray Can Black Matte Plasti-Dip (Glossy has less tackiness)
4.05mm Bore Shaft collars (9mm OD 5mm Width)

If using Repeat Robotics 2822:
Use TPU midcutter Weapon Skid instead of RR 2822 Spacers to change from undercutter to midcutter. Used this to fight low wedges where being upside down could lead to my weapon being too tall to hit the other bot with regular undercutter config.

PLA Pit Area Stilt:
This is just something I made really quick to set the bot on and keep the wheels off the table in the pits. Setting the bot upside down holds the M4x30 bolts in place so they don't fall off when you take the bottom plate off to change the battery.

Old Fingertech Viper stuff:
This was originally designed for Viper kit parts with a Fingertech 300mah Galaxy 3S battery, Tiny brushed ESC x2, Fingertech 2822, and Silver Spark motors, and a De-housed FlySky TR6A Receiver. I don't recommend these parts. But they do fit.

If LED indicator Required:
The second hole above the power switch is sized for Fingertech Power LED with Clip. You can see the ESC LED's through the top and bottom plate, so if the EO accepts that as your LED you can save a few grams not using this.

Some CAD models used to design/revise the bot sourced from:
Repeat Robotics: repeat-robotics.com
Fingertech robotics: fingertechrobotics.com
Itgresa: itgresa.com
Just 'Cuz Robitcs: justcuzrobotics.com
Ryan T.:  grabcad.com/ryan.t-40