Silent Filament Cutter Stopper H2S H2D H2C

Update 1: I uploaded a v2 version as a new print profile for a slightly slimmer model taking some of the comments into account. This version is slightly slimmer in height and width, it has a smaller bearing bore, the “wings” are slightly narrower and the gear tooth profile is slightly larger. I used slightly a lot because it's only a couple of tenths all around, it's just very small improvements but that can work better in some situations. 

The annoying noise we all hear during the toolhead displacement of H2S/H2D/H2C  is made by a ball detent in the filament cutter stopper base catching 3 different recesses in its rotating head everytime the head is moved back to front and back and meeting the stopper.

Following a great idea from @Elaps on bambulab community forum taken from a facebook group idea of @rsfmtb (rsf mtb suspension specialists) to use magnets in place of the ball detent of the filament cutter stopper (https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2-cutter-stoppers-are-so-unnecessarily-loud-and-annoying/228984/9), I decided instead of modifying the original part to design a remix of the original rotating head to accommodate bigger magnets which also does not need modifying the rack position which may be required with smaller magnets.. 

This silent stopper (not completely but it drastically reduces the noise made by the original) will replace the ball detents by magnets which will provide the same features but silently!

While using the original heads will work, this will only allow after drilling the original ball locations to install 3x1mm magnets which provide very low magnetic force. The replacement heads will allow 5x2mm magnets and provides a more reliable way for the head to move and stay in position. I had made numerous tests and this thing works!

These stoppers need to be printed in ASA or ABS (I used ASA for mine and supports are really easy to remove leaving no residue). PETG may work although the max temp of the chamber will reach the limit of the PETG temp, I would not recommend it. I only included profile for 0.2mm which is what should be used to make sure the gear is perfectly printed. It has 2 different stoppers, one for the right side, marked “R” behind the head, and one for the left side marked “L”. Both are required for H2D and H2C, only the right stopper is required for H2S.

Please read through the assembly guide before starting assembly as although you may not really need it, it gives some tips to make things easier. I also included some design considerations at the end. I'm sure though it's overkill for most of you :)