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Legend of Zelda Chess Set (Full models)

Print Profile(2)

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A1 mini
P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1
H2D
H2D Pro
H2S
P2S
H2C
X2D
A2L

Plate 6-9, 0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill and Support.
Plate 6-9, 0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill and Support.
46.3 h
4 plates
4.8(13)

Plate 1-5, 0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill and Support.
Plate 1-5, 0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill and Support.
42.8 h
5 plates
4.5(11)

Open in Bambu Studio
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1153
3049
42
44
1.5 k
305
Released 

Description

This is a full chess set with each piece being a different character or reference to the series. The intended character-peice combination is as shown in the photos (ex. Link and Zelda are King and Queen for the “white pieces”, Ganon is the King for the “black peices”. Pieces have been sized to conform to standard chess piece sizes. The set includes several additional “alternate pieces” that can be used in place of the “standard” set. However, it should be noted that the alternate pieces were difficult to print. Every model in the main set should print.

Recommended Print Settings:
Nozzle: 0.40mm
Layer Height: .20mm or lower
Supports: Regular supports with Snug fit. Tree supports also work, but have been less reliable. Use build plate only for tree supports.
Support Threshold Angle: I printed using 20. There is a delicate balance between support threshold and print quality. These models have a lot of things that need support that are also think and delicate. Bows, arrows, fingers, etc. If you set the threshold angle too low, the print will get messed up. If you set it too high (35+) there will be so many supports that removing them from the many small delicate sections of models will be difficult to do without breaking the model.
Filament: I have only tested these models with PLA and Silk PLA. They print significantly easier with regular PLA (I used Inland). Silk PLA makes these things look awesome, but it is more brittle, and again, lots of small delicate parts.
Ironing: Several models benefit from top surface ironing. Deku Tree for example. Most do not need them.
Infill %: I recommend at least 50%. It gives the pieces a good feel and not as likely to tip over but also saves on filament.
Infill pattern: whatever you want, I think I used cubic for the most part.
Walls: 3. You can do 2 if you want, but the extra wall makes them sturdier, especially for ones with thin legs.
Print Speed: 100% or lower.

Storage: This set is not recommended as an every day chess set. It's for display and/or special occasions. If you have children in your home, you should keep these packed up. You can find “pluck and pull” foam padding online for relatively cheap. 2" is what I used. Check the photos to see what I mean.

General Printing: It may be a task, but I would suggest printing one piece at a time, especially for the larger more complicated ones.

Print Times: The larger pieces take ~2 hours to print. The pawn row takes ~1 hour per piece.

Comment & Rating (42)

(0/1000)

started to print model today and ran into a few issues. noticeably right around the 80th layer the is a gap ranging in size (depends on model). This creates a floating piece that just slides right off the base. Viewed and sliced multiple models and same effect.
The designer has replied
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Which models exactly? Did you see the effect in the slicer or just in the print? I've made several sets of these on the P1P, A1, A1 mini, and on an ender 3 pro without issue. I looked at a couple models in the slicer just now and I don't see anything, but I don't know which ones you looked at exactly. If you can let me know which ones you tried I can take a closer look. You're welcome to post your slicer settings as well.
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Replying to @jeffrudzinski.p :
here is from one I sliced this morning. I have a X1 Carbon. it does seem like there is an air gap all along the back portion. I ran a couple of models and it's not all of them but I would say I found it mostly on the pawns. The air gap it mostly found between the bottom puck and the model itself.
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Print Profile
Plate 1-5, 0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill and Support.
The models themselves are great. I'm surprised they turned out so well on a .04mm nozzle. I noticed the description said to use regular supports and not tree supports, but the profile had it set to tree so I tried it, and the tree supports couldn't handle some of the more detailed figures I tried.
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I've started printing the figures but for some reason the Gannon figure doesn't seem to slice properly. other wise so far all the figures look great and print easily
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Print Profile
Plate 1-5, 0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill and Support.
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I haven't been able to open the .3mf for some reason. I get "Error (Invalid 3MF format) while parsing '3D/3dmodel.model' at line 19" Any ideas?
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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It's a huge file. Is it not downloading or is it not opening in Bambu Studio?
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Replying to @jeffrudzinski.p :
I was trying to open it in prusaslicer. Downloaded Bambu studio and it worked great
3
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hhow do you use the chessboard
The designer has replied
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Not sure what you mean? One side contains "good guys", and in the print file they're arraigned by how they'd be on the chess board. The other side are monsters/bad buys. Each side also contains a couple extra pieces off to the side that can be used as alternates/extra queen.
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Boosted
Great set of chess peices. I am still working out the print settings that will give a decent weight to the pieces.
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increase infill
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Print Profile
Plate 6-9, 0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill and Support.
did not print well, parts were too thin and supports made it difficult to print well
1
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Print Profile
Plate 6-9, 0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill and Support.
I like Hinoxes
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great job making everything look very realistic
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