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Chainmail Hood Coif for Cosplay

Print Profile(3)

All
A1
P2S
H2D
H2C
P1P
X1
X1E
H2S
P1S
H2D Pro
X1 Carbon
X2D
A2L
A1 mini

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
35.5 h
7 plates
4.6(21)

ALT for A1 Mini
ALT for A1 Mini
Designer
31.4 h
7 plates
5.0(3)

Alt with split head part for no stack 200c
Alt with split head part for no stack 200c
Designer
8.1 h
2 plates

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
3800
11576
127
132
3.6 k
683
Released 

Description

An adaption of my original coif with my bishops mantle design, so that the coif makes a full hood and shoulder cover.

This I hope will be perfect for anyone who want to use it for cosplay. I have improved the release of the chains from the baseplate so there should be alot fewer broken links when removing the chains than on my previous chainmail designs. 

 

Print specifics

 This print is a project that takes roughly 5 days to fully print all the buildplates (Please note you have to print a few of them multiple times , this is noted on the plate name). Once printed the sheets can be connected using the connection links provided. 

 

to all those who are not using the included print profile I recommend a temperature of initial layer 220 and all later layers to be 200c. 

I have printed these in pla Basic. Silk pla is too brittle and the layers will come apart so instead print in gray and for shine use a sponge to apply silver paint if desired. 

 

NOTE: these links are very small and should never be given to children 

 

Troubleshooting

 

chainmail failures are usually due to the print head bumping the underlayer at speed. This https://makerworld.com/en/models/2371201-chainmail-v2-test#profileId-2595063 is a test model I made for fine tuning issues (prints in 30 mins so saves you a whole lot of testing time if you are having problems). could you try that a few times with a few suggested changes.

 

 1. Gently wobble the nozzle to make sure it is seated correctly and has no movement. (if print head is wobbling reseat the nozzle and check bambu help for securing the 3 screws behind the nozzle if needed. )

 

 2. filament changes , I only use pla basic, silk never has enough layer strength for me. never used petg so I cant say what temp and speed is best for that. sorry to say the cliche but dry filament and run a filament calibration before print.

 

 3. temp, I recommend 200c to help it prevent curling as it cools, if already using that, try maybe 5c above or bellow to finetune for your printing area.

 

 4. speed, slower printing prevents the head from forcing the links around, go to slower speed, you can wait till later in the print to slow down to save time but normally about the half way mark is a good estimate if speed change is needed. 

 

Boost Me (for free)

If you like my creations a boost or a review with feedback would be hugely appreciated :) . Thank you

 

Build Instructions

 

There are 2 main elements to the print, The head cover and the shoulders. 

 

For the head: Print the 2 head buildplates (for those using stls, headtriangle 5x, front facing rect, and front facing triangle )

Print approx 4 plates of the connectors 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  1. The last one to join should be the front facing triangle, this will cover the forehead and indicate the direction the hole for your face will be
  2. Finally you should now have something that fits on your head, but it will flap a little around the neck as these edges are not connected. using the method in part 6 connect the “Front facing rect” part, so that it bridges the gap between the 2 long sheets, roughly underneath your chin. 

Notes: You will find a hole in the center of the piece where they all connected you can fill this in by adding 6 connectors each attaching to 3 rings see Figure 6. Also connectors are very useful for if a chainmail link breaks when taking it off printed supports/ during handling.

Further reading

These are some links that have been very useful to me during the assembly.

 

https://discover.hubpages.com/art/How-to-make-a-chainmail-coif

https://www.reddit.com/r/chainmailartisans/comments/1c1gdyl/i_did_it_conjoining_two_pieces_at_an_angle/

https://chainmailjoe.com/chainmail-joe-european-4-in-1-tutorial-1

 

 

 

 

For the shoulder part 

 

Print all the shoulder buildplates (for those using stls, Shoulderisotriange 2x, ShoulderLargetriangle 3x, Shouldrsquareprint 4x)

Print approx 6x the connecting links buildplate 

 

 

 

Will improve instructions in a bit for now you can look to :

These are some links that have been very useful to me during the assembly.

https://www.reddit.com/r/chainmailartisans/comments/1c1gdyl/i_did_it_conjoining_two_pieces_at_an_angle/

https://chainmailjoe.com/chainmail-joe-european-4-in-1-tutorial-1

 

Connecting Both parts

Find the center of the front shoulder part and the center of the forward facing hole in the head part of the coif, use a connecting link to join the 2 parts in the standard euro 4-1 way (add more detail in a bit) , now evenly follow the connections around the connecting edges in both directions such that they meet at the back, 

 

you should now be able to wear the full coif!, any issues add a message in the comments and I will see if I can help. If you have ended up breaking any links just use a connecting link to fix the chainmail where the old link was. 

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