Dallas Stars Oettinger the Otter

For the Dallas Stars fans among us, I give you a pun in 3D form: Oettinger the Otter!

I made this model using the Makerlab Printmon tool, then tossed it into Fusion 360 for some small edits. The model is NOT “painted” in Bambu Studio; it is designed to be printed in one color and then physically painted. 

The jersey logo & number that you see on the profile pictures are vinyl stickers that I cut on my cricket---I've included the images as both a JPG and PNG under “Documentation.” For the star logo, I cut it from permanent vinyl at 1" by .75" for the 100mm tall oetter (default profile size). For the back jersey number, I also cut if from vinyl at .74" by .75".

General Notes:

• To minimize deformations on overhangs and reduce the chances of the printhead knocking into supports while printing, I recommend using the filament profile included in the file. I've adjusted both the cooling settings and the z-hop settings. It's also important that your filament be really, really dry (dryer filament=cleaner overhangs). This filament profile is saved in the model, but just in case a screenshot of the settings is at the very bottom of this description.
• Even with the adjusted cooling settings I did have to do some sanding/trimming to clean up some of the overhangs, especially on the top end of the hockey stick. I have this rotary tool thing meant for acrylic nails that I use (it was cheap on amazon and small enough to hold easily). If you want to fight more with the overhangs, upping your fan speed or lowering your nozzle temp might help.
• If you drop the model, the hockey stick is prone to snapping off so handle with caution! (Super glue works great for reattachment….)

Painting Notes:

• First, I sprayed the model with a base coat of  Army Painter coloured primer to give the acrylic paint pens something to stick to. 
• I used Artistro Acrylic pens (brush tip) for painting. Most colors took 2 layers. 
  • A note about paint layering: if you use the artistro pens, you are going to be tempted to paint your second layer immediately after your first. “It looks dry!” you'll think. Spoiler: it's not. Wait 10 minutes then go back for your second layer. Otherwise you just kind of push the first layer of paint around…..
• I did a suuuuper thin layer of dark brown around the top of they eyes to give a bit of depth. Same for the mouth. 

Filament Profile Settings, adjusted from default Bambu PLA profile:

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