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Oculink Adapter ATX GPU Stand Holder egpu

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0,4 nozzle 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 7% infill
0,4 nozzle 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 7% infill
Designer
5.5 h
3 plates
5.0(1)

0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 3 walls, 7% infill
0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 3 walls, 7% infill
Designer
3.6 h
3 plates

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Description

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simple holder so that GPU can be mounted on ATX power supply to save space.

 

Suitable for the NFHK adapter and the chenyang adapter available on Amazon. (Details at the very bottom)

Both are Oculink adapters for external GPUs, allowing you to connect an external GPU to an NVMe M.2 interface or, as in my case, directly to a mini PC with an Oculink connection. (Both work with 4.0, by the way, I tested it; the more expensive adapter is not faster even if the cheaper one only states 3.0) I got the idea to try this with Oculink on a mini PC from an ETA PRIME video on YouTube, if you want to check something like that out.

 

 

The base holder is attached to the ATX power supply with 2 screws, so the graphics card stands stably on the power supply and does not tip over.

The part with the adapter board and GPU can be moved so that all graphics card sizes fit without too much weight on one side.

 

Before printing if you are not using my print profile:

Since long parts tend to warp, slow down the print a bit, especially the outer walls and the first layer.

 

I have added a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.6mm nozzle print profile (0.6 prints significantly faster, which is what is shown in the pictures)

 

Since the slider is specifically designed not to be too smooth, depending on the printer settings, you may need to deburr the edges slightly (unfortunately, it is not possible to find a setting for everyone, as different filaments and printers lead to variations)

 

Assembly:

 

1)

The power supply is placed on its side, and the base plate is secured with 2 screws supplied with the power supply.

Now you will see the 2 slots at the top, where glue goes in.

2)

Now place the 2 identical clips onto the slider (part for the board) and push the 2 clips into the 2 slots of the base plate.

(It is important to place the clips on the slider before gluing them, so that the gap dimensions fit afterwards! Otherwise, you will not be able to move the slider later or even get it in at all)

Check that no glue has squeezed out and bonded the slider, or carefully pull it out until it is dry.

3)

The adapter board can now be inserted into the slider.

4)

Now place the holder with the large arch onto the slider from the front.

5)

The slider can now be inserted into the clips on the base plate.

6)

Connect all cables (Oculink, 24pin), plug in the GPU and secure it with a screw at the top of the bracket.

Connect HDMI or DP cables, power cable to the GPU, set the board switch to “ON”.

 

 

For using external GPUs, you need to pay attention to some details, for which I take no responsibility. There are plenty of relevant videos on YouTube.

 

 

If someone wants an example of performance via Oculink:

 

I have an Aoostar Gem10 with Ryzen 7840hs, 16GB LPDDR5 6400MHz, (Time Spy graphics score from the 780m iGPU: 2943 points)

An Asus Dual RX 9060 XT 8GB is connected via Oculink.

Score in Time Spy without any tuning or overclocking:

Time Spy Total:         14442 points

Time Spy graphics:        15844 points

Time Spy CPU:                  9620 points

 

If you achieve a low GPU score, remember to completely remove the old graphics drivers (using DDU, for example) and then reinstall the drivers completely. Before I did that, my graphics score was around 5200 points.

 

 

Amazon ASIN NFHK Adapter: B0BZVW9VWL

Amazon ASIN chenyang Adapter: B0BZW1G87R

Comment & Rating (7)

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The version 6 of this board is being sold now and the board inset isn't long enough for the longer board :(
The designer has replied
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how long is it, can you measure it precisely? if only the length is different, I can change it and upload it as another print profile
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Currently there are 2 NFHK Boards. Ver:1.0 is a bit shorter. I received mine today which is unfortunately too long. I found dimensions for it on the internet in a Framework Community Post by user OVER_CL0CK. Apparently, the 4 holes at the PCIE slot should have the same spacing as version 1, but since I don't have that, I cannot confirm. So, only the 2 holes at the 24 pin would need to be moved. It would be best if you check this again
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Replying to @Yannma :
Those dimensions by @sergey_konk look accurate for my V6
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Print Profile
0,4 nozzle 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 7% infill
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Thank you for your review 😊
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