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UPDATE: SKIL TS6307 ZeroClearance ThroatPlate V1.1

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Print Profile(6)

All
P2S
H2C
X2D
H2S
H2D
A1
A2L
H2D Pro
A1 mini
P1S
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
P1P

Updated V1.1 - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Updated V1.1 - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
5.2 h
2 plates
5.0(2)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
3.5 h
1 plate

A1 Mini V1.2
A1 Mini V1.2
Designer
3.9 h
2 plates

V1.2 with Dowels
V1.2 with Dowels
Designer
3 h
1 plate
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Open in Bambu Studio
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Description

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Boost me (for free) if you like my design.

Even if you don't boost, consider posting pictures of your print. Seeing pictures of successful prints of my designs is very satisfying.

NEW !! Check out my new “minimalist” zero-clearance insert for the stock throat plate that comes with SKIL TS6307 table saw. It's perfect for those times where you don't need an entirely new throat plate.

 

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2848441-skil-ts6307-minimalist-zc-insert#profileId-3176567

 

 

And check out my new and improved pointer for this saw. It's much more accurate than the stock pointer:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2860454-skil-table-saw-ts6307-pointer-improved-design#profileId-3192077

 

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Another Update (May 11, 2026)

 

IMPORTANT NOTE: 

For some reason when I upload the v1.2 with dowels to MakerWorld, the dowel holes disappear.  It's some bug in BambuStudio and or MakerWorld.

I am able to see the holes on my local machine and actually printed two of them on my P2S.

 

I'll open up a ticket with MakerWorld but until then, you can glue the two halves together with crazy glue. Just use a straight edge to align the two halves together with the top surface facing down and apply a few drops of crazy glue on the mating surface and press together. The glue should set within 1-30 seconds or so.

 

I downloaded the 3MF files first and then opening it up in my Bambu Studio (V2.6.0.51) and the dowel holes are there for both standard and A1 Mini versions.

 

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Some people had issues with the dovetail links. Plus, the way I had made it,  one half was longer than the other, which made it impossible to print on A1 Mini. So, I created a new version (V1.2) which is split down the middle AND the connections are now square dowels. The dowels are not strong enough to hold the two pieces together but they are there to align them perfectly. Put a few dabs of crazy glue on/near the dowels and assemble on a flat surface with the top surface facing down so you get a flat assembly.

 

I uploaded two new print profiles and labeled them V1.2. There is one profile for all printers and another for A1 Mini only.

 

I don't have an A1 Mini so I can't confirm how well it will print. So, if anyone prints on A1 Mini, please comment, post pictures and let me know if there are any issues.

 

*********************************

 

IMPORTANT NOTE (Feb 15, 2026)

I have uploaded a new profile (V1.1) which fixes a minor interference issue for the rear half (the riving knife side) of the zero clearance plate. Please print use the new profile.

For those of you who already printed this, I created a second plate which includes only the updated part. Just print Plate 2.

 

*********************************

 

I have a SKIL TS6307-00 10 inch table saw. I think it's the best value table saw in the market. It's essentially similar in functionality to the Dewalt 10 in table saw at half the price.

 

I wanted to have a zero clearance throat plate and actually purchased from the manufacturer one. the issue with the zero clearance throat plates is that they get chewed up and especially each time you change the saw blade. And good luck using it with a thin kerf blade after using it with a full kerf blade. Not to mention having issues with any angle cuts. It gets pretty expensive preposition to have one for each blade and each cut angle. I was using one of those vinyl tapes and a couple of painters tapes but they get chewed up too and often get snagged when running materials through.

 

I finally found a 3d model at Thingiverse. Here is the original post:

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6122834

 

 

The problem was that it didn't work. It had many interferences but had the basic design in place, which is the tough bit. So, most of the credit really belongs to the original poster. 

 

I made a number of adjustments to eliminate the interferences and even made it so that it works at all angles, 0 deg to 45 deg.. So, now I have printed a few of these. A couple for 0 deg for full and thin kerf blades and one for 45 deg and another at 22.5 deg, which are my go to angles for must work I do in my hobby shop.

 

The original post has a number of issues:
1) ~2 mm too short (I added 1 mm, 0.5 mm to each half) - just to be conservative.
2) interference with saw blade mount (added chamfers to the rib on the left of the blade on both pieces)
3) Interference when using at 45 degrees (removed material from the lock knob housing)
4) The lock pin was too short (added 2 mm to length to the right of the hole)

 

I printed this and it fits perfectly at all angles.

 

There are three plates in the print profile but plate 1 contains all 4 pieces so you only need to print that one. The other plates are to print different pieces separately. The full set will print in around 3H45M.

 

Note 1: You NEED to use button head M5 screws to install the lock knob / pin (14-16 mm long works best). Can't use socket head screws as this causes interference for 45 degree use (though it works at 0 deg).

Note2: you will also need 4x M5 set screws, 6 mm works but 8 mm works better. You can move them from your stock throat plate if you want but I recommend investing $6 and buy a pack of them from Amazon. 

 

I am new to 3D world and your support will mean the world to me. If you find this model useful, please like/boost as you see fit. 

 

Check out my other models:
https://makerworld.com/en/@MaxZara/upload 

and print profiles:
https://makerworld.com/en/@MaxZara/profile 

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