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Removable Molle Insert, Pelican 1510

IP Report

Print Profile(2)

All
H2S
H2D Pro
H2D
A1
H2C
P2S

Direct Mount Panel
Direct Mount Panel
Designer
10.5 h
1 plate
5.0(3)

Removable Panel
Removable Panel
Designer
22.3 h
3 plates
5.0(1)

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
174
689
17
3
134
34
Released 

Description

YOU CAN PRINT THIS ON A P- OR X- SERIES PRINTER BUT YOU MUST ADJUST THE PRINTER SETTINGS ON YOUR OWN

 

3 IMPORTANT THINGS TO DO BEFORE PRINTING:

  • You MUST use the “no exclusions” profile for you printer to remove the void at the front left corner of the bed (P1S and X1C).
    • This can be found here, Makerworld prevents me from uploading that setting in the print profile. Read up on the process so you know what to expect.
  • Ensure that your printer is calibrated and the heat bed is clean. Calibration is important because the toolhead must have accurate positioning around the print area. A slight miscalibration can result in the print going off the edge of the bed, I experienced this first-hand. Glue the heat bed if necessary.
  • Remove the nozzle load line (first line at the front of the bed) to avoid printing over it for a cleaner print.

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This is a molle insert for the lid of a Pelican 1510 case. I don't think this will fit any other case, but see the attached drawing for the approximate hole spacing.

 

There are 2 models here, one that is removable and one that is not. All versions use a #6 (3.5mm) self tapping screw to attach to the case.

 

Removable Panel: This uses 2 different panels that are labeled in the print profile. These overlap each other when installed and stay in place with clips. The pins use screws that are NO LONGER THAN 7/8'' (0.875in or 22mm). The smallest it can be is 5/8'' (0.625in or 16mm) and that works fine. You can use a 3/4'' (0.75in or 19mm) long screw to meet in the middle.

 

Fixed Panel: This uses the same panel for both sides, they are a mirror image. This panel uses screws that are NO LONGER THAN 3/4'' (0.75in or 19mm). The smallest it can be is 1/2‘’ (0.5in or 13mm).  The panels are screwed directly to the case. You should avoid removing this panel too frequently as to avoid wearing out the plastic that the screws are threaded into.

 

Also uploaded as a STEP file is a blank panel (P1510_BLNK). Please use it to create your own panel with custom hole patterns or profiles. If you do make your own, please upload it as a new print profile, to keep everything in one place.

 

 

 

Shoutout to @Austin for making me realize I can model and print this. Check out his model for a single panel

 

 

 

Update log:

1/11/26: Added removable panel. Rewrote description to focus around removable panel rather than fixed.


Documentation (1)

Assembly Guide (1)
P1510MLLE_RMVBL.pdf

Comment & Rating (17)

(0/1000)

how can i size this up for the im2700 series?
The designer has replied
designer
1
Reply
Does that case have similar mounting as the standard cases? From what I can find on the product page for the im2700, there is some sort of rail that can get riveted to the inside of the case and a bezel can connect to that rail. There are drawings on Pelicans website about the size of the bezel and the hole positions. You may be able to 3D print a rail and a bezel, but the size of the lid is 17x22. If that is split in half it still wont fit on any printer and splitting it into 4 parts will not be strong enough as there will not be any support in the middle. I'm not sure if this can be done in a similar fashion.
0
Reply
Replying to @AntCop :
i mean yea there is an option to mount a bezel. i was thinking instead of gluing standoffs. seems to be the easier and cheaper option in the end.
designer
1
Reply
Replying to @AppGunSlinger :
Yea I don't like the idea of fastening through the outside of the case since it is a storm case and waterproofing is important. Gluing standoffs can work if you prep the surface of the lid, but it will never be the strongest option. You can make this exact model work with standoffs, but there is a STEP file that you can download from the CAD section that gives you a blank panel to customize. You should be able to stretch that as much as you need and you can modify the pins to be taller and act as standoffs. I don't know the depth of the lid or the true size of the inside to do any of that, but if you need other files from this project just let me know and I will upload them to the CAD section.
0
Reply
Wow, the idea of overlapping the sides was genius. That had never crossed my mind. Nice work.
The designer has replied
designer
1
Reply
Thank you for the inspiration!
0
Reply
AUSTIN! Figures I'd find you here haha. I swear our brains are somehow connected
0
Reply
Replying to @nakleh :
haha. we’d be best friends if we lived in the same city!!
0
Reply
Have you seen any bottom parts for the 1510 anywhere online?
The designer has replied
designer
1
Reply
What do you mean by bottom parts?
0
Reply
Any chance you're making one of these for the 1660?
The designer has replied
designer
1
Reply
Probably not, I don't have the 1660. Sorry.
0
Reply
Nice Work! Really well done
designer
1
Reply
Print Profile
Direct Mount Panel
profile
1
Reply
Print Profile
Direct Mount Panel
profile
1
Reply
Boosted
Print Profile
Removable Panel
profile
1
Reply
Boosted
Print Profile
Direct Mount Panel
(Edited)
profile
1
Reply
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License

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