Twisted collapsing magic wand

Welcome back witches and wizards!

It's been a real long time since I uploaded my last magic wand, although making magic wands is one of my favorite things to make!

But right before Christmas, here it is:

The collapsing twisted wand!

UPDATE March 2026 - V4 Version with thicker walls

Since so many of you requested it, I made a thicker version (V4) which prints with 2 walls every piece. Print this with the following settings:

• wall mode normal
• outer brim
• use glue or supertack plate or frostbite for optimal first layer adhesion
• PLA recommended
• use my print profile

Please keep in mind that this version is also fragile, all of these 3d printed retracting models are fragile because through the length of the extended piece there is a huge lever and so a huge forge perpendicular to the layers, which causes them to break easily.

I tweaked the design a long time for a balance of the following things:

• I want my wands to be elegant and thin, not bulky like my very old one or others I see online
• the length should be around 30-40cm
• this time I wanted a twisted design
• as always this very satisfying sound while opening :D
• printed in one piece (print in place)

Read before Printing (V1 Version)

But these need come with some downs (read before printing!):

• the printer & Filament have to be calibrated really well so the walls don't fuse together
• Use dried Filament!
• The walls of the wand pieces are sometimes only one wall thick. So this Wand is fragile! Please notice this before print and don't commen afterwards like “bad model, breaks easily” I used mine a lot without breaking, because I handle them with care, but I have also seen a lot people breaking them immediately.
• Be sure to not to eject the wand with to much power, the the pieces will stick together so hard, that it is nearly impossible to collapse the wand again.
• how far the wands extends depends a bit on the filament. I print all of my wands from PLA. But I noticed, that silk PLA extends a it further than normal PLA, which leads to a bit to long wand in my opinion (see image above, the purple one is out of Silk PLA). PLA CF also woks fine.

So in overall: You just need to practice with this wand, to handle it ;)

Printing:

• I suggest using my print profile
• ony tested for PLA, SILK PLA and PLA CF
• use dried Filament!
• make sure you have optimal bed adhesion, I used the frost bite plate or the supertack but with PEI selected in bambu studio, because higher temperatures on the supertack bed lead to much better adhesion. Make sure your print bed is clean!
• use arachne wall mode
• 0.2mm layer height should be fine
• an outer brim is highly recommended, no inner brims

• If you don't use my print profile: make sure that the open side of the wand ist standing on the built plate

   

Problem solving:

Parts stick together after printing:

• sometimes even a flick of the wand is enough
• sometimes hitting the wand on the table a few times is enough (with the opening facing downwards to the table)
• Sometimes this happen. Most easy fix is to carefully pull the most inner part out with tweezers or pliers
• use propper dried PLA

Wand breaks of the built plate while printing:

• make sure you use my print profile
• DON'T run on high print speeds (I only tested the regular speed from the generic PLA profile)
• if you are not using my print profile, stick to the settings mentioned above (brim & arache wall mode are crucial!)
• make sure your print bed is clean! (Wash with water and dish washing soap, dry before printing, this really makes a difference!) It is a most common 3D printing issue I see people do.
  
  How I made it:

Have a look at my other magic wands and collapsing models:

New customisable collapsing wand!

 

V2 of this spinning wand is online with even more twist:

First version of collapsing wand (much bulkier):

Mighty giant collapsing sword:

Water shooting magic Wand (needs TPU):

Water shooting Wand