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Double Sided Lithophane Frame, Lamp, Decoration

IP Report

Print Profile(1)

All
A1
H2C
H2S
P2S
H2D Pro
H2D
X2D
A2L

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
Designer
15.5 h
2 plates

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
15
46
0
1
31
3
Released 

Description

Double-Sided Weighted Lithophane Frame

I recently started experimenting with lithophanes but couldn’t find a decent double-sided frame to fit a specific spot in my room. I decided to design my own, and after being tasked with making two more for Christmas gifts, I figured I would share the design with you all.

This is a simple, robust design featuring a weighted base to keep it stable. I used a Bambu printer, but this should work on any machine.

🛠 Bill of Materials (BOM)

To complete this build, you will need:

  • Light Source: 2m LED rope light (USB with dimmer switch). Cost approx £6.00.
  • Weights (Optional): ~26x M8 x 40mm (i think 26, i cant remember and its now glued together) repair washers (adds weight to the base to prevent tipping by pets or kids). - Not 100% Required, Can be left empty -
  • Magnets: 4x magnets (6mm x 2mm) for the lid. - Not 100% required - 
  • Fasteners: CA Glue (Super Glue) and/or 2x 30mm wood screws. - Screws Optional, Especially if not adding weight to the base. - 
  • Epoxy: Optional, for securing the LED strip.

🖨️ Lithophane Generation Settings

You need to generate your own lithophanes to fit this frame. I used the Bambu MakerLab Generator, but you can use your preferred tool provided you stick to these dimensions:

  • Width: 160mm
  • Height: 210mm
  • Border: 4mm thick and 4mm deep (This is crucial for the fit).

🏗️ Assembly Instructions

1. Prepare the Base

  • Add the repair washers to the printed base. Use a small dot of CA glue between them to keep them from rattling or shifting.
  • Note: The base is optional. If you prefer a lighter frame, you can skip the washers and base entirely; just hot glue the cable into the exit hole of the main body.

2. Lighting the Core

  • Wrap your 2m rope light around the 3d printed center bar.
  • Tip: The adhesive on cheap rope lights is often poor. I applied some epoxy along the edges to ensure it stays permanently attached to the core.

3. Routing the Cable

  • Drop the USB cable through the square hole in the main body and run it out of the channel at the bottom.

4. Connect Body to Base

  • Fix the main body to the weighted base. You can use CA glue, 2x 30mm wood screws, or both for extra security.

5. Top Alignment

  • Insert the printed pin into the top of the light bar.
  • Insert the 2x alignment blocks into the top of the main body (these help locate the lid).
  • Note: These are designed as a push-fit, but you can glue them if you prefer.

6. Magnets

  • Glue the 6x2mm magnets into the recesses in the body and the lid using a tiny drop of CA glue.
  • Important: Double-check your polarity before gluing to ensure the lid snaps shut rather than repelling!

📊 Material Usage

  • Frame: ~650g of filament.
  • Lithophanes: ~250g (for both).

I think it looks great, and hopefully, you lot do too!

 

 

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License

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