speaker enclosure 2.5 inch - Free 3D Print Model

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rajmaks

Hobby & DIY>Music

IP Report

Print Profile(1)

All

X1 Carbon

P1S

H2D Pro

P2S

H2D

H2S

P1P

H2C

A1 mini

X1E

X2D

A2L

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

Designer

10.5 h

7 plates

Open in Bambu Studio

Boost

Released

Description

2.5 inch speaker enclosure
120x87x80mm

I am pleased to present my 2.5 inch full range speaker enclosure.

All necessary parts will be in the description.

Here's a quick test of the complete speakers connected to an external amplifier and a yoradio. For a system without a subwoofer, it sounds quite good.

Some links to parts used in this project

AIYIMA 2Pcs 2.5 Inch Audio Speakers 4 Ohm
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32850014591.html

Connector Terminal Push In Jack Spring Load 19mm x 37.2mm

M3 8mm screws with nuts and washers (4pieces, for 2 connectors)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009796880495.html

M3 brass inserts 5mm (8 pieces, for 2 housings)
M3 6mm screws (8 pieces, for 2 rear housings)

M3 10mm screws with nuts and washers (8pieces for 2 speakers)

Black professional acoustic speaker cloth (I bought 1m x 20cm)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272369173228?var=571279326915

Contact adhesive spray (to stick the cloth to the grille)

8mm x 1.5mm magnets (16 pieces, for 2 grills and 2 enclosures)

Speaker cables (to connect the terminals to the speakers - I used 90mm length each)

Double-sided adhesive tape/foam, 1mm thick (to connect the foot to the housing)

Superglue

I soldered the wires to the speakers and terminals, and also used a soldering iron to fuse the inserts into the housing. So, a soldering iron may also be needed.

Let's print something

In this project I used PLA+ black, support filament, TPU

Grille
0.2mm layer height
Pause on layer 18 to attach 4 magnets - Remember to use glue!!
Remember to insert the magnets with the correct polarity.
They must attract each other to the housing, which will also have magnets

Main part

Brim option enabled.
0.2mm layer height
Pause on layer 21 to attach 4 magnets - Remember to use glue!!

Remember to insert the magnets with the correct polarity.
They must attract each other to the grille.

Support normal manual option enabled. Use support filament.

This part is painted with fuzzy skin, don't change anything. If you don't want fuzzy skin, remove the fuzzy paint.

Foot

0.2mm first layer
0.08mm each subsequent layer

The speaker foot consists of two parts, both of which are printed with the support option enabled. Use support filament.
This parts are painted with fuzzy skin, don't change anything. If you don't want fuzzy skin, remove the fuzzy paint.

Anti-slip
Here we will use TPU
0.2mm layer height

Back of the case
0.2mm layer height
Support option enabled. Use support filament.
Brim option enabled.
This part is painted with fuzzy skin, don't change anything. If you don't want fuzzy skin, remove the fuzzy paint.

A small reminder on the support option parameters when using support filament.

Assembling the speaker

1.Solder the cables to the speakers

2. We glue the parts of the foot

3. We melt the inserts with a soldering iron - I'm not an expert in this, but I managed to do it.

4. We connect the terminals to the back parts of the housing.

5.We glue the foot to the housing using double-sided 1mm adhesive foam

The tags will allow you to adjust the centers of the parts

6. We screw the speakers to the housing and solder the cables to the terminals on the back of the housing.

You can screw the back parts on after soldering.

7. Using spray adhesive, glue the cloth to the grilles. The back side of the grille will be without cloth, so do not apply glue there. Cut off the excess cloth with a sharp scalpel or scissors, being careful not to fray the cloth.

8.Done!

I would like to remind you once again about the correct polarity of the magnets before inserting and gluing them to the printed parts.

For this project, I used an external amplifier that allowed me to adjust the treble and bass, which you can hear in the attached YouTube video. Quite a good effect for such small, 2.5-inch speakers.
I'm no speaker expert here, but I'm happy with the result.

Happy Printing.

Edit: For those who need a cover for the hole/vent on the back of the case, a cover has been added. Thank you.

Comment & Rating (12)

@user_2525629783

Hi, the result looks great, nice job! When you say "Pause on layer 18 to attach 4 magnets" for the grill, and "Pause on layer 21 to attach 4 magnets" for the main part, could you please confirm this means pause at the end of layer 17 (before layer 18 begins), and likewise, pause at the end of layer 20 (before layer 21 begins). as I believe this needs to be precise and will require inserting a pause in the gcode manually at the correct layer.

The designer has replied

@rajmaks

Hi. Thank you. The profile I shared, pauses are already marked, you shouldn't have to worry about anything. If you'd like to do it yourself, for example, in a new profile, here's how: In both elements we will use a 0.4mm nozzle, the layer height is 0.2mm grille -press "slice plate", on the right side go to layer 18, right click and select "add pause", press "slice plate" again and you are ready to print grille with just added pause (see photo) main body - press "slice plate", on the right side go to layer 21, right click and select "add pause", press "slice plate" again and you are ready to print "main body" with just added pause (see photo) The magnets are 1.5mm high. The magnet holes are 2mm deep. After using superglue and inserting the magnets, wait a moment for the glue to dry and the magnets to adhere. Then you can continue. Remember to insert the magnets with the correct polarity – it's very easy to make a mistake. Good luck.

(Edited)

@rajmaks

P.S. If you really want, you can use pauses, respectively 17 for the grill and 20 for the main body, but I think it is not necessary to have one layer in reserve

@user_2525629783

Replying to @rajmaks :

Thank you for the detailed reply! I see now, I didn't realize the pauses are already added in the 3mf file. I am using a non-bambu printer and orca slicer, so the layers are actually different numbers, but I can see the pause is still in the correct place.

@jasziu

what device is used to connect speakers to sound source ? any chance to get BOM for whole project ?

The designer has replied

@rajmaks

yoradio, based on esp32 module, is connected to amplifier ZK-502T, just for testing purposes. I already shared files to print yoradio enclosure with list of all used parts.

@rajmaks

https://makerworld.com/models/1924865

@user_2525629783

Replying to @rajmaks :

even with such a cheap amp, the speakers still sound really good in your enclosure on the youtube video! Can I ask what power supply you were using in the video with the ZK-502T? was the power supply 12v or 24v and how many amp was it? thank you!

(Edited)

@user_829484111

Nice looking speaker!

The designer has replied

@rajmaks

..and sounds pretty good for his size :) Good to see you.

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