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Adjustable Juice Groove Jig (for Cutting Boards)

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P1S
P1P
X1E
X1 Carbon
H2D
H2C
H2S
H2D Pro
P2S
A1
X1
X2D
A2L

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
3.5 h
1 plate
4.9(7)

Open in Bambu Studio
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Released 

Bill of Materials

Maker's Supply Kits and Parts
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M4x6 BHCS Machine Screw (10PCS) - AA064
List other parts
  • M4x6mm Machine Screw (or similar) x 8:

Description

Adjustable jig for cutting juice grooves into cutting boards using a handheld/palm router. Avoid the complexity of building a DIY adjustment system, or paying $100 for a pre-made jig.


Build Instructions:
1) Decide on the maximum size cutting board you want to handle using this jig
2) Cut 2 strips of ¾" plywood into 2.5" wide strips, with a length equal to the max cutting board length + 2"
3) Cut 2 strips of ¾" plywood into 2.5" wide strips, with a length equal to the max cutting board width + 2"
4) Insert one end of each plywood strip into the blind slot in each of the printed jig parts (one for each corner). To secure the parts together use an M4 machine screw (or similar) screwed into the hole on top of the part.

5) Connect each of the 4 walls of the jig together by sliding each of the 4 plywood boards into the perpendicular slot on the next board (see image for final configuration). Note: The jig has spacers for both 1" and ¾" from the cutting board edge, to allow the user to both accommodate different sized palm router bases, or to move the groove closer or further from the edge. Simply reverse the direction you slot each of the parts through to switch between the two spacings.

Operation Instructions:

1) Place your cutting board inside the jig, slide the 4 corners of the jig in to snug against the corners of the cutting board.

2) Once you have the cutting board tightly secured between the 4 corners of the jig, you can use another M4 machine screw per corner to clamp down on the neighboring jig wall and secure them in place (see demo image). 
3) Use clamps or other fixturing to secure the entire jig + cutting board assembly to your benchtop

4) Using an appropriate router-bit for the task, run the edge of the palm router base-plate against the wall of the jig, maintaining contact at all times, particularly when rounding corners. 

5) Cut down to final depth in increments for a safer and cleaner cut. Consider a very light finishing pass to eliminate any scorch marks.


Disclaimer: Use at your own risk; routers are dangerous and can cause serious injury. 

Comment & Rating (11)

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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Very nicely done!! The spacing is perfect for my handheld router. Good Job!!
(Edited)
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Works perfectly. I printed in PETG and used to make a groove on a large butcher block. Thanks for the model!
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The jig I printed had a small design flaw. The corner offset did not allow for the thickness of the vertical jig piece that wraps around the wood, creating an unsquare set-up. So for example, measuring from the corner of the 1 inch offset, where your cutting board would sit, the distance one direction to your wood rail was 1 inch as it should be. But 90 degrees the other direction it is one and 1/8th inch. The extra 1/8th inch being the thickness of the vertical printed piece inside the jig. I fixed this by Nibbling off that extra 1/8 inch on my bandsaw and then the jig works perfectly. hope that makes sense
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Yeah! Wtf how was this not noticed/fixed.
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Great Job!! Perfect fit. I threw out my old jig.
designer
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How do you cope with the corners being inset from the side when routing?
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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