Hot Dog Bo Staff

9-27-23 5:00PM
Important Update!
Please redownload or use the updated connector file i added.
The connector will not fit otherwise.

HOTDOG STAFF
DARTH MYER WEINER
GLIZZY STAFF
Whatever you want to call it.…

Here we have a quick little project I made for a friend, It may not have been the best way to get to the end result, but I am still learning CAD and design software and it seemed to be the quickest and easiest way at the time.
I just used negative part modifiers with existing components from 3D Printing Worlds Bo Staff design and The hot Dog model is from 3DBuilder on Cults3d.
Then split the hotdog and components and did some testing and sizing on the blade sections
And viola, I had my very own Hotdog Staff

I highly recommend checking out the other models from 3D PRINTING WORLD, he has some really cool lightsaber and sword models, especially on his Patreon https://patreon.com/3dprintingworld?utm_medium=clipboard_copy&utm_source=copyLink&utm_campaign=creatorshare_fan&utm_content=join_link ;)

Check out his other models,
https://than.gs/u/35786

3DBUILDER (Hotdog Model)
https://cults3d.com/en/users/3DBuilder/3d-models

This Model is not for Commercial Use, and I do not own the rights to the respective models used to make this weird creation.

Preloaded settings will be in the 3MF files if you open in Bambu studio or Orcaslicer.
For the blades I print in by object (sequential) in vase mode, all 5 sections in one print. If you set your extruder offsets to fool the printer it can be accomplished you just have to print starting at the front and working to the rear of the build plate making sure the hot end and gantry will clear the blade sections as it moves to the next one.

Printing the Second Plate of the main file has not been tested, but i attempted to get the settings right, so print the 2nd plate at your own risk.

I print the blades in vase mode for a stronger blade, and i have up-loaded the print file for the blades, unfortunately Makerworld is making it so you cannot print the blades in vase mode through the Handy App because the printer offset settings revert to default and do not carry over.

Beware if you do print in vase mode with my file with an P1S or X1C, You will need to remove the top glass.

Printed In PLA

Using the 3mf file included should give you a suitable profile to print them together.
I used a .8mm nozzle
.32mm layer height
.88mm line width ( You may need to adjust line width if your blade sections pull apart and do not lock together or do not extend correctly.)
I also included a scaled version of the print in place blades if you would like to try those, but they do take significantly longer to print and I don't find them to be stronger, they are more finicky to get right and I have not tested them in this model, so do so at your own risk!