Top Glass Riser, LED channel for P1/X1 Honeycomb

UPDATE: IF YOU WANT THE PATERN DESIGN ON THE PARTS, THEN YOU MUST ENTER DEVELOP MODE IN BAMBU STUDIO THEN TOGGLE “INTERFACE SHELL'S” IN THE SHELL'S TAB. IF YOU DON'T DO THIS, THE PART WILL PRINT WITHOUT TOP AND BOTTOM LAYERS, (SO YOU'LL HAVE HOLES GOING THROUGH THE PART). OTHERWISE, IF THE PATERN IS NOT OF IMPORTANCE, JUST DELETE THE MODIFIED LAYER. ALTERNATIVLEY USE ORCA SLICER TO PRINT THE PARTS, AS THERE ARE NO ISSUES WHEN PRINTING THROUGH ORCA. SORRY FOR THE INCONVENIENCE AND I HOPE BAMBU LAB GET THEIR BUTTS IN GEAR.

Hello,

I designed this Top Glass Riser because when I upgraded my P1P, I was quite shocked that the glass simply rests on top of the printer. Upon looking online for printer risers, (and there are lots of designs), I sadly didn't find any that fit all the criteria I was looking for.

1. Short enough that it doesn't stand out too much (i.e. minimalistic).
2. Tall enough to stop the PTFE tube from tapping the top of the glass.
3. Allow “easy” installation of an LED strip.
4. Allow said LED strip to be installed without having to cut/solder anything.
5. Make sure the LEDs aren't blinding the user constantly.
6. Be sturdy.
7. Allow the Top glass to lift easily.
8. Feel seamless with the rest of the printer.
9. Allow easy customizability (Through first layer print choices)
10. Allow Ventilation (If users wanted it)

Now, I'm not sure how much I succeeded on all those points; however, I feel it does the job very well.

In total there are 8 parts that need to be printed, no other joining materials are necessary.

Each part has threads on either side that allows them to easily combine together. The Back part in the center, has both a counterclockwise and clockwise thread, so it can thread into both sides simultaneously, and close the whole frame. The Back curved corner is the same where one thread is Clockwise to combine to the side part, and the other is counterclockwise to combine with the back part. I also designed two different styles depending on whether you wanted the cable to route thought the back right or back left. This decision might be dictated by your LED strips, (as it was in my situation) so you might need to route the LED strip either clockwise or counterclockwise around, so choose the correct cable side accordingly.

Parts you'll need:

Under the Riser: I'm not entirely sure what's necessary to get the best seal, but I placed very thin weather insulations strips

On top of the Riser: I put 1-inch wide (25mm), 1/16-inch thick (1.6mm) rubber Strips on the Risers to protect the glass and help insulation, it also helps contain some of the LED light spill.

LED: I used a FCOB RGBW LED strip because I preferred the clean look, and the white isn't all channels on max, resulting in a more natural white, with less blue spill.

In Order to give the large parts that cool honeycomb effect, I followed a video from “Teaching Tech” on YouTube on how to add a modifier to your first layer and change the infill to be the pattern. Master infill to take your 3D prints to the next level (youtube.com) This is the link to the video in case anyone is interested. I have the details for the modified layer in the print profile description.

Finally, I also edited this file and created a ventilated Side Part. Originally, I hadn't designed a ventilated side part, because I primarily print ASA/ABS so wanted to contain the heat, rather than let it escape, and when I print PLA, I just lift the glass as shown in the images. However I do understand that for others that isn't the case, so I went ahead and added the possibility for people to add it. Given the relatively small profile of the parts, prioritizing LED lighting, and a lip to stop light bleed, finding a good area to add ventilation was limited, so I simply went through the lip, while still keeping its structure. It still feels just as strong as without it, so no worries there. So, if you want Ventilation, make sure to download the .3mf that says ventilation, and also double check which direction your LED strip needs to be routed, then chose the correct file accordingly. I hope this helps anyone who is looking for a Riser that's ventilated.

Anyway, I hope some people find this print to be useful and enjoy the final look, and I look forward to seeing some people's prints.