Search models, users, collections, and posts

RC shock absorber 8C

IP Report

Print Profile(1)

All
P1S
X1 Carbon
X1E
H2D Pro
A1
P2S
A1 mini
H2D
H2S
X1
P1P
H2C
X2D
A2L

0.12mm layer, 2 walls, 100% infill
0.12mm layer, 2 walls, 100% infill
Designer
53 min
1 plate
5.0(3)

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
112
213
6
2
178
43
Released 

Bill of Materials

Maker's Supply Kits and Parts
Select all
0.4x5x30 mm (5PCS) - BB012
0.4x5x25 mm (5PCS) - BB011
0.4x5x20 mm (10PCS) - BB006
0.4x5x15 mm (10PCS) - BB010
M2x2.5x30 SHSS Machine Screw (5PCS) - AA120
M2x2.5x25 SHSS Machine Screw (5PCS) - AA119
M2x2.5x18 SHSS Machine Screw (10PCS) - AA207
M2x2.5x14 SHSS Machine Screw (10PCS) - AA206
M2x3.5x4 Round Threaded Brass Heat-Insert Nut (20PCS) - AB009

Description

Hey everyone, I've build this RC shock absorber type for one of my future projects. I needed 2 specific sizes for it, so I decided to build them myself.

 

Please read the complete description.

 

There a 4 sizes available (see the images) for more details:

- 80 mm long with 76mm between the mounting holes

- 71mm long with 67mm between the mounting holes

- 60 mm long with 56mm between the mounting holes

- 51 mm long with 47mm between the mounting holes

 

The full diameter of the shock absorber is only 8mm, if your printer setup is good, everything should be a tight fit at first. PLA will give way a bit after a few compression cycles.

 

Hope it fits one of your projects too :)

 

I would recommend printing the cylinder cap and the endcap  from a more durable material such as ASA or ABS for more strength.

This model uses hardware parts from Bambu Lab.

 

My recommendations are:

-For the 30mm cylinder use a 30mm screw and 30mm spring

-For the 25mm cylinder use a 25mm screw and 25mm spring

-For the 20mm cylinder use a 18mm screw and 20mm spring

-For the 15mm cylinder use a 14mm screw and 15mm spring

 

The thickness of the spring wire is up to you.

 

Assembly is pretty straight forward:

 

Step 1: Press the M2 threaded brass heat-insert nut into the endcap

 

Step 2: put the screw in the cylinder

 

Step 3: Slide the spring onto the screw

 

Step 4:  Screw the endcap 

 

Step 5: Screw in the threaded cylinder cap

 

DONE

 

 

 

 

If  you like my 3D models, think about following me, I always have something cooking :)) in the mean time enjoy this model. Thanks!! 

 

"Fuel for the Factory"Keeping the printer (and the person) running at 100%  https://ko-fi.com/abe3d

 

Boost Me (for free)

....or not.... It's up to you! Have fun!

Comment & Rating (6)

(0/1000)

License

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.