Star Wars Slave 1 VOID-7 Seismic Charge

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I was re-watching the Star Wars prequels (again 😅) and remembered how ridiculously cool the seismic charge is in Attack Of The Clones —the cut-silence then whomp…. is just so satisfying. Jango and a young Boba, sling a few at Obi-Wan on the approach to Geonosis, and Boba drops one in The Mandalorian too. I wanted a quick, easy print that nails the look without any soldering, so this model uses the Maker Supply battery LED pucks for the glow.

What’s Included

• Mid-body with cutouts and clean (no cutouts)
• Left/Right end caps + internal diffuser parts
• Copper accent shells (separate pieces) (I used Red Copper Silk PLA from Sunlu)
• Centre grill/fin parts + top greeblie
• Stand base (Death Star-style slots) + two support mounts/uprights
• Plaque face + plaque frame + plaque mount

Print Choices

• Diffusers: white or clear looks best for the glow. If you’re not lighting it, try yellow or any colour you like.
• Stand: two options
  • AMS version (single piece with colour swaps)
  • Two-colour version (black and white plates printed separately, then glued)
• Copper accents: Silk copper PLA or paint—your call.

Lighting (no soldering)

• Designed for small Maker Supply battery LED pucks.
• The puck slot diameter is 30 mm. There’s a bit of manufacturer variance: some pucks will be snug, some loose.
  • If loose, wrap a little tape around the bottom of the puck or use a tiny ring of Blu-Tack.
  • Avoid permanent glue so you can swap batteries later.
• IR remotes still work through white/transparent PLA.

Quick Assembly

1. Print parts and pick your mid-body (cutouts or clean) and stand style (AMS or two-piece).
2. Glue diffusers into the end caps (a tiny bead of CA around the inner lip).
3. Glue the LED-puck mounts inside the mid-body (they’re keyed—only fit one way/side). Drop pucks into the 30 mm slots.
4. Attach end caps: line up the slots in the cap with the prongs on the LED holder, slide on and twist—they lock in snug.
5. Add the mid-detail parts (copper shells, greeblies) to the body.
6. Stand: glue the support mounts to the base, then the uprights. I orient it so the textured build-plate face points outwards.
7. Plaque: glue the nameplate into its frame if you want; the plaque mount friction-fits into the slotted base so you can leave it unglued.

Optional finish: a whisper of silver metallic wax paint AKA Silver Rub n Buff (or dry-brushed silver) on the black parts gives a nice worked-metal look.

I hope you enjoy this model as much as I enjoy re-watching the prequels. Don’t forget to Boost and post photos of your build—it really helps with engagement, keeps the filament flowing for more models, and I love seeing what everyone makes!