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6.5" TrenchBox

Print Profile(1)

All
A1
H2S
H2D Pro
H2D
P2S
H2C
X2D
A2L

0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 4 walls, 25% infill
0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 4 walls, 25% infill
Designer
57.7 h
5 plates
5.0(9)

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
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60
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56
Released 

Description

Boost Me (for free)

If you like this PLEASE boost it. I've spent more time and am more proud of this than anything I've designed so far. Instead of selling the files or printed boxes I'm giving it away in hopes that I can save enough boosts to get a new large format printer to design larger boxes more easily. Thank you!

I made this box for myself, but a lot of people have been asking for the files. It is made for a specific speaker, passive radiator, and components. If you don't plan to use the parts I list, you should have an understanding on file modification in the slicer. The battery and amplifier can be whatever you like that fits. I'm using a Snow Joe 24v 3ah battery with 6.3x3mm pigtail to the charge port and a ZK-1001U bluetooth amplifier.

 

I print the box halves face UP. When doing this you MUST make sure you have good plate adhesion, because it can allow the brim to warp as the print progresses. I use tree supports and 45deg threshold angle. If you plan to use this outside or keep in in a hot place I recommend PETG at a minimum. I use PETG-GF for the body because the texture hides layer lines better AND it resists warping better than regular PETG. Plain PETG will work better for the grilles according to recent feedback. I used #6 tapered screws, washers, lock washers and nuts for the box seals and feet, #6 pan head screws, washers, lock washers and nuts for the handle and front speaker. I used the screws that came with the Polks to secure the PR on because That's what I take off and on to tweak the internals. I printed all of this with a .6mm nozzle to cut print time down. Layer lines aren't prevalent, partly due to the PETG-GF. But I think it's the best for this project.

 

There are a LOT of supports on this because it's all printed FACE UP. I don't mind that, because I prefer the face on top. If you can make it look good printing face down to reduce supports, more power to you!

 

Speaker - Polk 6.5" Marine

Passive Radiator - 6.5" Dayton Audio DS175-PR

Power Button - 19mm

Volt Meter - 30mm

5.5mm Power Port - 12mm

 

3D printed parts ARE NOT waterproof. I sprayed the box with 2k Clear to seal it and add UV protection. I used Lexcel to seal the box seam and the back of all of the screws. If you don't plan to use it outside in bad weather that won't be an issue.

 

The Polk 6.5" Grille by Nik on here fits the front as well, if you prefer it. I know mine isn't perfect. I'll update it later on.

Comment & Rating (60)

(0/1000)

My Son sent the link to this project. So, I got some Camo filament for the body and had Orange for the grills and black for the feet and handles. I printed it with a .4 nozzel and it took 16 hours for the back and almost 19 for the front. The grills came out nice but there was a LOT of support and was a pain to dig out. The camo came out as stripes on the body but made for some neat looking support trees. The holes are just right for the M3 threaded inserts. I bought 10mm and 20 mm screws. I'd suggest 12 mm instead of 10mm. I also got self adhesive furniture pads that I cut to fit into the feet. I ‘ll make one for myself with a few changes. I'll use bigger bolts on it for aesthetics. Second, I'll change the power and battery. For a product we are making I have a 5-cell battery pack w/ a waterproof USB-C power connector that I'll use for power. Lastly, I'll add supports to hold the battery pack and electronics. I'll also put in holes for inserts for mounting the Speaker and PR.
The designer has replied
designer
3
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that turned out very cool! thank you for sharing!
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Boosted
What brand filament and color did you use?
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Did you put the bluetooth amp inside? Just wondering how to mount where the knobs can be adjusted once all screwed together
The designer has replied
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I did. Once I tune the amp I glue the knobs in place. So I don’t leave them sticking out. You can add the holes yourself if you find enough flat space.
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Replying to @BRalstonCWI :
Gluing the knobs is pretty smart. I am trying to design a plate that will bolt on that i can mount the amp to if it works like i hope i will post a pic here
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Replying to @Alabama_Andy :
Are you in the BNBBB and Build Plate Therapy facebook groups? We have a really good recessed plate for the 1001u. It wouldn't take much editing to make it work for a 1002t also.
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I boosted and I haven’t even tried it yet but the fact you are sharing your hard work with us is so cool Thank you bro!
The designer has replied
designer
3
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I appreciate it! I hope you dig it if you do end up making it!
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Boosted
boost, what brand and preset of petg gf filament did you use?
(Edited)
The designer has replied
designer
1
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Tinmorry PETG-GF with a .6mm nozzle. I set it as Bambu PETG, and set it to the strength setting. 4 walls, tree supports at 45°.
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Replying to @BRalstonCWI :
I also up the separation of the supports and object .1mm for easier support removal.
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Would you say it was worth it?
The designer has replied
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Was it worth 2-3 days printing? To me, yes. I’ve built 100 Apache boxes, designed and printed a dozen of my own, and this one is my favorite. It’s $24 worth of filament. I don’t see why it wouldn’t be unless your printers make you money and you can’t afford the time it takes to make this for yourself. Would I print these to sell? No. But I don’t print anything to sell. I just use my printers for stuff for myself.
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Replying to @BRalstonCWI :
Yea i get that. I guess I just meant the overall build. I'm like you I print things for me.
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Replying to @sulleyneal :
If you’re in the BNBBB group I’ve posted some videos of the audio. It sounds amazing to me. I’m going to start making these for family members instead of Apache 6.5” and 6x9” boxes because to me, out of luck, not design, it seems it’s the perfect size to get a great tone out of this speaker. It really is my favorite.
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this is awesome but what happens if you drop it
The designer has replied
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If you’re concerned about dropping it I’d spray it with bed liner.
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Replying to @BRalstonCWI :
aight
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Boosted
do you know if kicker or something like jvc 6.5 will fit?And also I seen they have 2 different Dayton passive radiator 6 1/2.Which one did you go with?Im also having a hard time trying to find the tapered #6 screws and the pan head screws.Do you mind sharing the links for everything you purchased?
The designer has replied
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any 6.5” will fit if you make the cutout the right diameter. there’s only 1 6.5” designer series PR. the other will work if you modify the cutout diameter. I got the screws from ace hardware.
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Boosted
Replying to @BRalstonCWI :
thanks appreciate it.Waiting on my filament to arrive and I’m gonna print it.It is a great design.I done gave you a boost.When I’m finish,I’ll give you another boost.
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hello new to the whole printing. Started to print the front face first. Am I doing something wrong because it says it will take approximately 44hrs. Using a Kobra 3 v2
The designer has replied
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Small nozzles take a long time for big prints. Each half took less than 13 hours for me on my Bambu A1 with a .6mm nozzle. Plus, you have to check your print speed. If you calibrate your printer to dial in the speed and flow rate you can push the printing faster.
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Replying to @BRalstonCWI :
Will try to reprint because it started to lift from the plate. I will look into getting bigger nozzles and de how it goes from there. Thanks!
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Print Profile
0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 4 walls, 25% infill
nice model
The profile uploader has replied
profile
1
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thanks! Hope you like it as much as I do!
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will be printing soon thanks for sharing boosted 💪🏽
The designer has replied
designer
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post a picture when it’s done! thank you!
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