Kasumi – Fallen Princess of Shadows String Lamp

Once heir to a kingdom annihilated in the first onslaught of The Threat, Kasumi carries herself with the quiet, lethal grace of a monarch who has nothing left to lose. Where once her crown symbolized peace and prosperity, now her blade is the only emblem of her rule.

Among the ranks, soldiers do not call her by name. They call her Royalty, a title that began in mockery but has become a rallying cry. Wherever her crimson blade flashes, loyalty follows, for to fight beside Kasumi is to witness the fury of a kingdom reborn in every strike.

Abandoned to die amid the ashes of her homeland, Kasumi rose instead, hardened by betrayal and loss. She mastered the art of deep strike warfare, striking from the void with surgical precision, cutting through enemy lines before vanishing into the dark. Many whisper that she is heartless, but those who face her in battle see not cruelty, only an unwavering focus on the kill.

Her enemies cage and hunt her, yet she slips free each time, turning captivity into carnage. The more the Threat breaks her body and soul, the sharper and more relentless she becomes. What was once a princess has become something more, an icon of vengeance, a weapon honed by grief and fire.

Kasumi is not only an assassin. Within the halls of the Carbon Alliance’s High Council, she stands as both diplomat and strategist, her words cutting as sharply as her blade. She argues that survival must take precedence over comfort, that even liberty itself may be suspended, temporarily sacrificed, if it means humanity can withstand the endless tide of the Threat. To some she is a savior, to others a tyrant in waiting, but none can deny her resolve.

Try not to use the Super Tack plate, taking the print off may damage the strings. When you finish printing, LET IT COOL! If you try to pull it off while it is hot, the strings will bend. This is especially true with this model, the body is very thin and fragile, the plate needs to be cold and the print will pop off without issues.

Remove the frame first, place the scraper under and run the perimeter of the frame until it is fully released.

Finally, gently lift the model off the plate. Take your time, if you are having a hard time try placing the plate inside the fridge for 10 minutes and use a sharper blade. Remember to only use it to lift the model, not scrape the plate.
 

This model uses arachne, so the strings are even thinner then my previous models. Most models with strings only use a single 0.24 layer high string, I use two. That way, if one fails, the other usually does not. There are other variations on the way, such as AMS painted, strings different color and support for the lamp and waterproof pucks.  But, you also need to have proper adhesion, clean your plate and watch the print so you get the best results possible.

To light it you will need the standard 3AAA RGBW pucks from bambu lab, two in total.

Relatively simple, assemble the two halves using an assembly jig in the profile, it is basically two rings that will fit exactly to the two halves, just make sure you put a paper down so the glue doesn't leak and ruin your table (ask me how I know). There are nubs in the provided bases and it will keep it in place for a desktop stand, but carrying it around without gluing it, is not advised… if you are happy with it and do not wish to reuse the base for my other models, go ahead and glue it.


Also, DO NOT change layer size because then the mid air strings may fail.  Any issues, let me know.

Other models you may want to check out :)

 

NO Ams switch Pro Controller Holder