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Cruelty Free FPV Thumbsticks

Print Profile(1)

All
A1 mini
X1 Carbon
X1
P1P
H2D Pro
X1E
H2D
P1S
P2S
H2C
H2S
A1
X2D
A2L

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
1.8 h
5 plates
5.0(1)

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
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1
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47
Released 

Description

Boost Me (for free)

Support me modelling more FPV Gear!

Are you a dutty thumber? Feel vilified by FPV Radio makers only giving you stabby sticks? 

Me too! Introducing: Cruelty Free Thumbsticks
 


I've been using these for about a year now. I tried every other kind of thumbstick. I tried forcing myself to hybrid or pinch. Turns out, I just needed to accept myself, and model something less sadistic than the stabby morningstars on the market.

 

I had a couple Skull & Co grips laying around from a Steam Deck and worked out how to bring these to life.

 

Other Parts

Two M2/M3/M4 bolts, Socket Cap/Socket Button Cap (See Sizing Guide Below).

 

(Optional but recommended) Skull & Co Thumb Grips, for Steam Deck, Rog Ally or Xbox. Or, a similar thumb grip for those kind of thumb sticks.

 

Sizing

Sizing depends on controller and how big you want them to be. They're likely compatible with more radios than are listed; you're best to measure the bolt size your radio takes.

 

Radio Master Pocket takes M3 bolts, Socket Cap. There are 20mm and 25mm lengths available. I use M2x20mm on my pocket as my daily driver.

 

DJI FPV Controller 3 takes M2 bolts Socket Capped, again available in 20mm and 25mm lengths.

 

DJI N3 Controller takes M4 bolts Socket Button Cap, I've only made these available in 20mm length but the source is available if you want to try yourself.

 

Printing and assembly notes

They print fine on their head without supports as in the print profile attached. If you're using thumb grips on top this is how I suggest you print them: The thumb grips hide any print imperfections and leave the underside and staff really smooth.

 

If you want to be super careful with the top you can flip them and print them standing the other way, this requires supports but leads to a scary smooth top.

 

Be careful when assembling, especially the smaller/thinner staffed models. When you insert the bolt, do so slowly, and every now and then do a half turn backwards to tap threads in the model without splitting it.

 

If you do split them; it's not the biggest deal, the important thing is the radio pushes up against the sticks when you screw them in; toprovide more friction/stop them from unscrewing.

 

Want a different size?

The source is available here: OnShape - Cruelty Free Thumbsticks by JamesCodesThings

 

tldr; Switch to the tab for the diameter you want, change the screw length variable, right click the thumbstick model and export.

 

The screw length variable is a few millimeters larger than the length of the screw, so adjust accordingly. For example the m3x20mm has a 23mm screw length. If you want to fit 18mm screws change it to 21mm. You could also adjust the model in the same way as the 25mm tabs; by extruding the base longer or shorter to fit your screw length.

 

 

Happy Thumbing.

Comment & Rating (7)

(0/1000)

Love the idea, but can't get it to print for the life of me. First layer never adheres correctly. Tried adding raft and slowing initial layer, it never sticks. No idea what's going on with the model that makes this so hard, but I don't have issues with print adhesion on much more complex models
The designer has replied
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hmm, very odd, and sorry to hear this! What are you printing on and with? (printer, buildplate snd filament) I can see if I can get close to your setup to debug a little. My initial thoughts on top of what you have tried would be to whack the bed temp up to 80-90degrees and add a brim with no separation from the model. As for the model itself the issue could be that it uses lots of happy round numbers (exact multiples of nozzle diameter) so the slicer prints exact lines and doesn't have as much wiggle room for natural overlaps and squishing lines into each other. So, I could drop in a variant with an offset/wider shaft to give the slicer more room to work with. If you get back to me with some details of your setup, I'll get to work seeing if we can't sort it out!
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Replying to @jamescodesthing :
Thanks for the offer! I ended up having luck printing it upside down. Sorry, pretty new to 3d printing, so I've really just relied on pre-made profiles up to this point. I ended up shortening the sticks a bit more to get closer to a Playstation feel, and love the result! Thanks for putting this up
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Replying to @MikuruSaori :
No worries at all, glad you got it working! Looks sick, well done!!
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I'm really proud of you and your journey of groweth and self acceptans
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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