TRX4M VW Bug Comp Body and Chassis - Free 3D Print Model

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JBS Design

Hobby & DIY>RC

IP Report

Print Profile(4)

All

P1S

X1 Carbon

H2D

A1 mini

X1E

H2C

P1P

P2S

H2S

H2D Pro

X2D

A2L

Body Only Less Supports- Remix ToPeMon

Designer

4.2 h

1 plate

4.9(11)

Chassis, Mounts, Sliders

Designer

1.8 h

1 plate

5.0(10)

Full Kit, body and chassis

Designer

10.4 h

2 plates

4.2(5)

Body Only More Supports - Remix ToPeMon

Designer

9.7 h

1 plate

4.0(1)

Open in Bambu Studio

Boost

355

803

765

277

Released

Description

Boost Me (for free)

If you like the design, don't forget to boost it! Thanks for supporting my fun hobby.

I was going to design mounts for @ToPeMon Bug body, but I ended up getting carried away.

I designed a universal chassis for the trx4m with a 12 degree angled skid, specifically designed for Bronco/Defender links. NO AFTERMARKET PARTS REQUIRED. Designed to integrate with all stock components with no modification.

The ideal setup for this chassis in is 53mm front shocks and 59mm rear shocks, however all shock lengths including stock should work.

Recommendations:

Velcro the stock ESC to the slider as close to the front as possible, be sure to place in an area where the battery wiring can still accessed.

Run the shocks upside down to eliminate the need for shock spacers and to keep the weight as low as possible.

Magnets used for mounting - DIYMAG 100Pcs Refrigerator Magnets, Small Round Rare Earth Magnets for Crafts, 10x2mm Strong Neodymium Magnets for Whiteboard, Fridge, Billboard, Hobbies in Home, Kitchen, Office and School: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I would recommend glueing them into the chassis mounts and the rear body mount first, once dry set the rear mount in place and set two magnets on the front mount (I glued two magnets together for the front mount to space it out slightly more. Apply a liberal amount of glue to the mounts and line the body up with the sliders, mover forward or backward as needed for rear tire clearance.

Comment & Rating (84)

@themadhungarian

Boosted

Pinned by Designer

I've printed two bodies and two chassis' on an A1 using Bambu PLA and everything came out perfect. I need some.detsiled photos as to where everything goes, as I have never built one of these. why are there two different width magnet body mounts? Is there a brace for the back of the chassis, or does that come from a stock vehicle? I'll message with more questions, but this is a 5 star print all day. I used the more supported body file and its a thing of beauty.

@user_2590435774

Boosted

Perfect print I had to add two small supports so the Karo wouldn't tip over and I made it 20mm narrower so it would fit on my build plate

The designer has replied

Show original

@JBS_DESIGN

Looks Great!

@danryan999

what filament did you use?

@user_2590435774

Boosted

petg-cf

@OG_PotatoChip

Boosted

Thanks for sharing this! I had so much fun with this build. Printed it in ABS, sanded, wiped down with acetone. Acetone on ABS was so awesome it came out sooo smooth. the primed, painted red, then painted black. sanded off some of the black to let the red come through. Printed the skull for the hood and skull & crossbones for the rear, inserted 2mm thread inserts into both. These attach to the mounting points I made that are connected to the chassis. The dashboard I designed and printed using translucent filament. Red leds light the dash and the faces of the 2 Grim Reapers. Both reapers were printed. Printed 3 dice for the dash/middle console. Designed and printed new sliders for the Apex. The body was riding high and I didn’t like how you could see the wiring and such. Got some fabric and vinyl from wife and covered top of dash with a faux leather, the cab floor in a black fabric, headliner with similar fabric but in red, used same material in rear windows behind the netting.

The designer has replied

@JBS_DESIGN

looks awesome, good work on the build!

@Rayzucu_29

you gave me a great idea for my build!!

Show original

@user_2566058775

Print Profile

Chassis, Mounts, Sliders

good print thank you

(Edited)

The profile uploader has replied

@JBS_DESIGN

sorry you had some trouble with it. I would suggest you make sure your bed is very clean before printing. I am surprised you had no issues with the body adhesion and had some with the chassis as the chassis file is very simple.

@user_2566058775

Replying to @JBS_DESIGN :

I cleaned the plate. it failed 1 1\2 hours in. chassis seems fine but rest spaghettied and pushed 1 mount over. Ive done a cold pull and re calibration on the bed. Going to try a simpler print and see how it goes. Ive also been told it could be moisture so I will also be buying a dryer. I will try and print again in the near future and if results change so will my review of course. Thank you for responding

@user_2566058775

Replying to @JBS_DESIGN :

I tried a 3rd time after printing a simpler one first. Failed again. pictures added

@clehner1775

Boosted

Awesome files! I’m running mine with 1.8 comp rims on portals and stock shocks. The skid angle makes the drive shaft angle a lot more friendly to the meus portals. I did have to do some trimming because of the Traxxas 2 speed but it worked out great and your design is still nice and rigid even with the frame member cut on one side!

The designer has replied

@JBS_DESIGN

looks good thanks for printing!

@axel_prints

Did you print those wheel?

@clehner1775

Boosted

Replying to @axel_prints :

I did they're available here on makerworld!

@SeanW94

Will this work for a high trail edition Trx4m??

The designer has replied

@JBS_DESIGN

Yes, the skid geometry will be slightly different but it should work with no issues

@_bananaman

Replying to @JBS_DESIGN :

I have an a1 mini so how do I print the frame additions?

@_bananaman

Replying to @JBS_DESIGN :

also how do I put it together on the truck

@user_2725288886

super frustrating the print supports dont touch higher up untill its already 80% printed and even on 50% speed the print vibrates and flexes back and forth slightly when the bed moves. eventually the bottom supports break and its down hill from there. if the supports were along the sides through out the print, I think the print would survive every time. and it wasn't a adhesion to the base issue because despite the head hitting the print constantly due to it flexing it still stayed on just flexes back and forth I had to use blue tack to stick the print to the support but just gave up on it

The designer has replied

@JBS_DESIGN

I have never tried to print it on an A1 - I am sure the supports need to be beefed up on a bed slinger. If I were you I would manually add supports with the support painter and adjust your top z distance to make sure the supports don't let go