Loose Tenon Router Mortising Jig - Free 3D Print Model

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TTone

Tools>Machine Tools

IP Report

Print Profile(3)

All

X1 Carbon

P1S

P1P

X1E

H2D

H2D Pro

P2S

X2D

H2C

H2S

A1 mini

0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 40% infill

Designer

52.2 h

5 plates

5.0(7)

Multi-cradle version. 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill

Designer

67.9 h

7 plates

Spacer for 65mm diameter router

56 min

1 plate

Open in Bambu Studio

Boost

540

1945

477

Released

Description

I've looked at loose tenon joinery tools longingly but cannot afford one. Searched maker sites too, but none had all the features I wanted, so I created this version designed to hold a 69mm cordless router with ¼ inch shank. I have only tested with a Dewalt DCW600B cordless router. Have now added 2 variants for 65 and 72.2mm compact routers per requests. Fixed the two issues identified by users for the 65mm variant (still printed as 69, bolt pockets).

The features I like about my version are:

No glue or epoxy needed – completely dry fit
Fits cordless router (69mm barrel). Optional variants for 65 and 72.2mm added 4/2026.
Height adjustable, self-aligning slide
Depth and width control set by printed hardware stops, not loose screws.
Depth and width motion on perpendicular pairs of parallel linear bearing slides and rods
Set up for common 1/4-20 hardware (USA)

Like some other jigs found, this uses 8mm linear bearings and two pairs of perpendicular rods for motion control (150 and 200mm).

I printed the key parts with ASA for additional rigidity and strength.

I have posted a new profile with multiple router cradle sizes (65, 69 and 72.2mm) for common cordless trim routers (only need to print the necessary one, of course). Also added a spring spacer washer, as some reported having trouble finding washers with 8+ mm ID.

See the updated detailed assembly and use instructions for printing tips and setup/usage instructions, including improved tenon width control clip sizing information.

Documentation (1)

Assembly Guide (1)

Loose Tenon Jig Assembly and Usage Instructions Rev2.pdf

Comment & Rating (56)

@user_1334205922

Great design! I made a 89mm version to be able to use some old Porter+Cable motors, with 1/4" and 1/2" collets. I kept all the important dimensions correct for travel, and centering the bit.

The designer has replied

@TTone

Awesome. And I like the shiny gold filament :)

@user_2777965852

do you have a file for this? this would enable a 10 mm collet/bit so you could use the XL domino tenons!

@user_1334205922

Replying to @user_2777965852 :

Exactly. And yes. I do. How do I get the file to you?

@user_1334205922

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 40% infill

bigger than I thought but that's good.

(Edited)

The profile uploader has replied

@user_1334205922

Just waiting on the Rod's and Bearings. Am i limited to custom 1/4" "Domino's" or 6mm? New to loose tenon's!

@TTone

Replying to @user_1334205922 :

tenon thickness is determined by the bit diameter.... if you can mount the bit in your trim router, you are good.

@user_1334205922

Replying to @TTone :

The Ridgid cordless router only accepts 1/4" collet (that I know of). I think the Makita has (3) 6.35mm, 8mm, and 6mm. Not sure if Dewalt has a number of collets besides 1/4".

@Nochrem

Boosted

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 40% infill

Haven’t testted yet, but it looks very strong. Since my Makita router is 65mm diameter, I printed a simple spacer to make it fit.

(Edited)

The profile uploader has replied

@TTone

Well done

@user_4098280379

I am using Makita router as well, what are your comments after you test it? What the material you are using for this tools and the spacer you added? Tks!

@Nochrem

Boosted

Replying to @user_4098280379 :

I would say it works perfectly. I did a couple of tests to have the domino fit as wanted but after that it worked great. I just used PETG for spacer as it is a bit more flexible. For the rest I used ASA.

(Edited)

@user_1334205922

I modified the Router Cradle for my Ridgid. I started with the 65mm Cradle then Adding a negative part, a cylinder x=12mm, y=12mm and z=75mm, then put it half way in where I wanted it, so that the power, and speed were on top, and front (see pictures).

The designer has replied

@TTone

I see - the ridgid has a bit height fine tuning linear rod you had to make space for in the bore. I have never looked that close at the ridgid trim router in the store. Good solution. Did you change the infill density because of the bore or did the natural compression just bring the walls together enough for you?

@user_1334205922

Replying to @TTone :

The rods and bearings are not installed yet...Just mocked it up for the picture until they come in. I made sure the bit was exactly in the same location. New to 3D Printing that said I didn't think I needed to increase infill desity because this model is (in my opinion) a strong design compared to others I've seen. I did print the 45% one.

@jonthemiller

Boosted

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 40% infill

First of all, this is an amazing piece of kit, so well thought out and designed. Kudos to you for designing it and releasing it FOR FREE, amazing. I have printed it in PETG-GF (black) and ABS-GF (white), still waiting for the longer rods to fully assemble it. Some minor feedback and questions - I edited another model to use for the knobs that had a 1/4-20 hex nut embedded, didn't want to have to buy any. Think adding printable knobs would be an improvement. Related, I will probably print spring separators/end cups. I couldn't find washers locally with the needed ID/OD. Is there any purpose for the knob/handle on the top? Its not really covered in the assembly guide. Lastly, a question about determining the size of the width clips. My gap is 51.5mm. My tenons are ~20mm. Using the guide's formula, (51.5 - 20 - 6)/2 = 12.75mm for the width clips. This results in a final left/right allowed movement of 26mm. Is that too much? I'd expect ~14mm, but no expert.

The profile uploader has replied

@TTone

thanks for the review. appreciate it much. regarding your questions, I can say... . (1) yes, could add knobs, but there are many already on maker, including parametric. I could find a workable one and add a link. . (2) a spring separator is a good idea. I'm not home right now but can add an update later. (3) upper knob is to have something to hold on to to keep the plate from shifting, especially if you don't add any sandpaper. (4) I should improve the width clip instructions and add a diagram. if you have open gap W with tenon width T and bit diameter B you should print two clips of (W+B-T)/2 or just a little smaller to have glue space. in your example that is 18.25mm.

(Edited)

@jonthemiller

Boosted

Replying to @TTone :

Perfect, thank you, I knew I was misunderstanding something. Will update once I have had a chance to use it on a couple projects, but very happy with it overall.

@user_2503414425

Thanks for providing other diameters. I opened the 65mm and I noticed an issue with the two pockets for the hex screws (Screw holes are too close to the colar). As I'm in europe, I'll use metric screws, so I'll edit the stl to adapt few things, so it doesn't bother me, but just to let you know for others...

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@TTone

Repaired. Don't know what happened with this one. The F3D file matched your image, but my version of the 3MF file had normal pockets. Anyway, new profile plate posted with corrections.

@user_1238121430

Printed and assembled everything, and the quailty is superb. can you give guidance on the which bits you use? Going from imperial shank to metric dominoes has me wondering how to get it right. does a 1/4' bit mortise produce the right fit for 6mm dominoes?

The designer has replied

@TTone

A 1/4 bit is 6.35 mm so should fit OK, maybe a bit looser than you like though. Best advice is try it and maybe vary the amount of glue used

@user_2777965852

so I had this same issue. 6.35 is too loose. so I found a company in Ohio Elaire Corp which makes metric collets for the Dewalt Palm Router. I have the 6mm and 8mm and you can find corresponding 6/8 router bits on Amazon. the other option are ready-made bits that are 1/4” shank with a 6mm cutting bit. those weren’t available when I found the metric router collets. http://elairecorp.com/dewaltroutercollets/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22623952537&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlLDQBhDjARIsAPlIefGaY_Rb8mJsSrbgpFlJLa62vpHoU16KXhMe-Szj7IqPcqY4rVTKOGQaAuQHEALw_wcB

@bryanwny

Boosted

Are the springs just to push the router back away from the work piece after you've finished making the mortise? Debating on skipping them if I can't source them locally. Also, with the 2-1/2" long bit, what's the max depth you're able to get with the bit comfortably in the collet? Between the knob heights (on the shoulder bolts), the thickness of the plunge bracket, and the workpiece plate, how deep can that bit still go? I already have a 2-1/2" long Whiteside bit, but wondering if I should find a longer one to toss on my Amazon order. BTW -- This design looks AWESOME and I can't wait to try printing it. Just received my first 3D printer (P1S) a few days ago, so I'm VERY green to this. Only printed PLA so far, but ready to give ASA a whirl. Thanks for all your time and effort on this!

@user_2434116067

I just printed the 65mm cradle and too my horror it's 69mm. I didn't check the 3MF but now I have and sure enough it says 65mm on the model but in Bambu studio it measures 69mm! :( No harm though, I'll print a spacer, but please fix for others.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@TTone

let me check these. I did not print it just posted the update files, as I only have the 69mm. You know how fusion can sometimes mess with fixed and closed body models when you make adjustments

(Edited)

@TTone

Replying to @TTone :

repair file is made and sent for publish. Waiting for maker review to clear.

@Papayaman

Awesome cant wait to print this and try it using my Dewalt router, will post pictures once my son finds time to print this, I am on the lowest priority request list.

The designer has replied