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GRIDPAC.ONE - Systainer Compatible Gridfinity Case

IP Report

Print Profile(6)

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H2D
H2D Pro
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
X1 Carbon
A1
H2S
P2S
H2C
X2D
A2L
A1 mini

lid (no handle) - 3 parts (flat) (READ FIRST!)
lid (no handle) - 3 parts (flat) (READ FIRST!)
Designer
17.8 h
2 plates
5.0(3)

lid (no handle) - 3 parts (upright)
lid (no handle) - 3 parts (upright)
Designer
15.8 h
3 plates
5.0(5)

lid (no hande) - 6 parts
lid (no hande) - 6 parts
Designer
22.3 h
3 plates
5.0(3)

base (with handle) size 1 - 6 parts
base (with handle) size 1 - 6 parts
Designer
38 h
7 plates
5.0(10)
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2 k
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Released 

Bill of Materials

Maker's Supply Kits and Parts
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M3x25 BHCS Machine Screw (5PCS) - AA062

Description

GRIDPAC.ONE is the all-in-one printable storage case designed to unify your workspace whether you're deep in the Gridfinity ecosystem or using your own custom inserts. 

It matches the outer dimensions of Systainer Classic (compatible with Makita MAKPAC, HiKOKI, Festool and Tanos) and is 3D Printer Friendly.

  • Designed to be fully 3D printable, even on beds as small as 180×180 mm
  • Seamless lid printing on 220×220 mm beds
  • Seamless base printing on 300×300 mm beds
  • One-piece print possible on 300×400 mm printers

 

 

 

Why “One”?

One box – designed for both Gridfinity inserts and non-Gridfinity storage (foam, custom compartments, tools)

One design – optimized to print on nearly any 3D printer starting from 180×180 mm bed and up.

One system – compatible form factor with Makita Makpac, Tanos and Festool Systainers for tool shop integration

 

Dimensions

Internal

  • Footprint: approx. 380 × 250 mm (excluding corners)
  • Size 1 Internal Height: approx. 91 mm

Gridfinity

  • Inner Height (Size 1): fits up to 12 Gridfinity Units
  • 48 – 52 standard bins, depending on layout
  • 210 half-grid bins
  • Lid Supports a half-grid pattern or a 3 mm foam insert

 

 

 

Printing

Bambu Lab Users

Pre-tuned print profiles are available on the MakerWorld page. These are optimized for Bambu Lab printers and work out of the box.

Other Printers

If you're using a different printer, follow the guidelines below:


General Infos

Depending on the size of your printer, you can print the base and the lid in either 1, 3, or 6 pieces. The 3- and 6-piece variants are compatible. Each left, middle, and right section from the 3-piece variant can be combined with a front and rear combination from the 6-piece variant.

Try to fit the largest possible parts on the bed. On common printers with a bed size of 220×220 mm, you can at least fit the 3-piece lid parts upright and diagonally on the bed.

It is not recommended to print the bottom pieces in an upright position, as the glue joints might be a weak point due to poor layer adhesion.


General Settings

  • Material: ABS or PETG recommended
  • Nozzle: 0.4 mm
  • Layer Height: 0.2 mm
  • Walls: 2 to 3
  • Infill: 15–25%, Gyroid or Cross Hatch

Multipart Files & Reinforcement Bodies

The design includes bodies labeled “reinforce”. These should be printed with an extra wall, especially if you’re using only 2 perimeters. This ensures critical areas like the latch mechanism won’t break under stress.

 

 

 

Supports & Bridging

If available, use a support interface material for a cleaner finish. If not, follow these suggestions:

Set bridge direction to 90° to the print orientation for a smoother surface

Increase support interface spacing to 1 mm for easier removal and improved texture

Pins & Hinge Pieces

  • Use extra walls and concentric patterns for added strength
  • All pin and hinge parts come in three tolerance variants
  • Start with 0.1 mm clearance
  • If friction is too high, try the next looser variant
  • If too loose, try enabling random seam alignment to add friction
  • Note: Handle pins are not symmetric—be sure to mirror them

M3x30 Alignment Pins

  • These pins are used for alignment only and provide no structural function. You may substitute them with:
  • M3x30 threaded rods (metal or nylon)
  • 3×30 mm wooden dowels
  • Printed pins (recommended in a contrasting color to help inspect glue joints during assembly)

Latches

Latches are available in three variants:

  • Plain
  • Debossed letters
  • Multipart for multicolor (AMS/MMU-ready)
  • Pick the version that suits your setup and aesthetic preferences.

 

 

Assembly

To assemble the case, you’ll need glue. For PETG or ABS, UHU Hart (affiliate link) works well in my experience.

 

 

 

Base

  • If you're using the 3-piece variant, start by assembling the front and rear sections. Once these are fully cured and stable, proceed to glue the left, middle, and right parts together.
  • Always assemble on a flat surface
  • Prepare weights or clamps to ensure proper alignment and fit

Lid Assembly

  • Begin by assembling all lid parts first
  • Once the lid is fully cured, insert the hinge blocks
  • Double-check orientation before gluing (ask me how I know ...)

Handle

  • The handle pieces need to be glued together as well (3 pieces)

Final Assembly

  • Once everything is cured and stable, insert the pins to assemble the lid and base
  • Latches need to be twisted in, just like with the original Systainer

Hinge Pins

  • The hinge pins have a hole designed for an M3×25 mm screw
  • The bolts are friction-fit,but may loosen over time
  • To secure it, you can add a dab of glue or use screws to lock it in place

 

 

 

FAQ:

Q: What size printer do I need?
A: For seamless lid printing, a build area of at least 220x220 mm is recommended. The design is also printable on 180x180 mm beds, but larger parts will need to be split. To print the entire model in one piece, you'll need at least 300x400 mm.

Q: How much material is needed?
A: With a 0.4 mm nozzle and two walls, the model uses roughly 1,4 kg of ABS filament (including all parts and support material). The original weighs about 1,3 kg.

Q: Why Systainer Classic and not Systainer³ with T-Loc?
A: The Classic Systainer patent (EP0555533B1) expired in 2012. The T-Loc patent (EP2315701B1) expires in 2029 and the Systainer³ design will remain protected even longer. I prefer to avoid legal gray areas.

Q: Why not use a real Systainer and print just the insert?
A: I’ve done that too. But honestly — I enjoy creating and experimenting. Why buy something for 30 Euro when you can spend hundreds of hours and kilos of filament building your own?

Q: Can you make Size Y or add Feature X?
A: Check the to-do and planned features list. If it’s not on there, drop me a message and I’ll see what I can do.

 

 

To-do:

  • Buffer pieces to block off half-grid gaps
  • Lid inlay for Gridfinity grid (half-grid "hollow") – alternatively, a 3 mm foam insert can be used
  • Bottom inlay for Gridfinity grid (a standard Gridfinity grid from the Fusion Base Plate Generator will work)
     

Features and ideas for the future:

 

  • Base “Size 0” – 78.75 mm height ("different" design)
  • Lid with handle
  • Base without handle
  • Base with grip holes (left and right)
  • Smaller 52.5 mm variant (stackable, no latch)

 

 

Change log

2025-08-03 v84

  • Initial release for “Size 1” with a front handle and basic design

 

 

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Comment & Rating (117)

(0/1000)

Bambu users... beware, I didnt use a separate support material and didnt modify the pre-tuned print profile to account for this (0mm interface). I dont think I will be able to salvage the part I printed since the supports are "attached".
The designer has replied
designer
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petg
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thx for the warning, i assumed, when you have an H2D you will use a spearate support material because of the 2 nozzles (there is not much reason not to) - placed a warning in the profile, that will be read by the people hopefully
(Edited)
designer
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Replying to @suit1337 :
Thanks for the reply... I think a warning will be good.
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This model is really worth two boosts I will print another one in orange-black Update: printed a second one
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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designer
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vielen Dank :)
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Very great model! 2 Boosts! I've already printed 2 cases, more to follow. I didn't like the bottom design much, so I removed it in Fusion for myself. Only problem - the latch clips keep breaking off. PETG, ABS they keep breaking off. Any tips
The designer has replied
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1
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Do you have a picture of what the broken part looks like
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Replying to @suit1337 :
I found something else in the plastic waste :) That is ABS - the rest of the cap is almost indestructible even with a vise and pliers :)
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Replying to @bernhard.walter :
You seem to have a layer adhesion problem try PETG instead it is not as tricky to print
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I’m grateful to you for this model — it turned out really well and encouraged me to grow in CAD and start designing my own models. I never even imagined that such large and functional suitcases could be printed. Thank you!
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I started printing on the K2 Plus and for some reason it's not getting past the first layer it shows it's on the ninth layer but the nozzle keeps scraping the initial layer as if it were ironing Any tips
The designer has replied
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looks l ike something is off with your slicer or printer - since i don't own a creality machine, i cant help you maybe you try the creality support or reddit r/FixMyPrint is great for that
1
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Replying to @suit1337 :
Managed to solve it, I just adjusted the flow. I will post the photo when I'm done. Excellent design
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designer
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Boosted
Looks fantastic! Some great work, been following this project from the start :) Will definitely be printing a few of these! Just a quick question, what's the difference between UHU Hart and regular Cyanoacrylate?
The designer has replied
designer
4
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Thx for the Boost :) UHU Hart is a solvent based glue, the main ingredients are methyl acetate and butyl acetate with nitrocellulose as a binder. It dissolves the plastic partially, this slurry mixes with the nitrocellulose and fuses it together. Cyanoacrylate (or Superglue) is a reacton type glue - it does not dissolve the substate, it just "grabs" on surface features. Usually Cyanoacrylates are quite brittle, that is why i usually use solvent based glues - but what kind of solvent is needed depends on the polymer. ABS for example can also be glued with just ABS dissolved in Acetone (5 to 10 % ABS) - dirt cheap and works well.
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Boosted
Replying to @suit1337 :
Thank you for the detailed answer! I'll definitely be investing on some of that. Are there certain filaments that UHU Hart works / doesn't work on? I was planning on using PETG 😄
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Replying to @pbjwm :
UHU Hart works well for PETG - for other polymers, there are better alternatives.
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Print Profile
lid (no handle) - 3 parts (upright)
Thank you for the wonderful model. I couldn't wait for different sizes, so I also printed a version that was 50mm taller. I was also concerned about the support surface at the top of the handle, so I created a part to hide it. I copied the "XX" on the bottom from other users, but I think it adds a cool accent.
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profile
1
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Excellent professional design. Total printing time: 55 hours, filament: <1600g, hardware purchased. Considering replicating a No 2 or No 3 box.
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1
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after much labors, I finally got mine together. I love it! I scuffed the glue on the bottom, but it’s very functional and has allowed me to store some precious and oddly shaped gear. thanks for the fun project!
The designer has replied
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i like the color scheme :D
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I was initially very interested but hesitated due to the time and cost Eventually I had some filament leftover and started printing I printed with PETG on the P1S and everything fits perfectly I noticed so many small details during assembly that constantly amazed me Great work Thanks for sharing
(Edited)
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designer
1
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