BB Air Engine For Building Blocks - Free 3D Print Model

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Jamie'sBrickJams

3D Printer>3D Printer Parts

IP Report

Print Profile(1)

All

X1 Carbon

H2D

X1E

A1 mini

P1P

P1S

H2D Pro

H2S

P2S

H2C

X2D

A2L

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Designer

30 min

1 plate

4.5(24)

Open in Bambu Studio

Boost

263

343

654

246

Released

Bill of Materials

List other parts

M3 bolts x 2:
O-ring (9mm) x 1:
O-ring (8mm) x 1:
O-ring (14mm) x 1:
Superglue x 1:
Silicone lubricant x 1:

Description

This model is designed to work with ‘building brick’ parts, turning a standard engine cylinder into a working air-powered engine.

Once printed, you'll need to take these steps to get the engine working:

Remove support material
File/sand the parts of the valve housing and sealing cap that will touch each other to get rid of any excess support material.
Check that the piston head travels smoothly into the cylinder. If there's any friction, gently sand the piston head.
Insert the o-rings around the piston head (9mm), sealing cap (14mm), and into the bottom of the valve housing (8 mm) (3 o-rings total)
Drill 2 exhaust ports into the ‘building brick’ engine cylinder, just below where the piston's o-ring travels at the bottom of the stroke
Superglue the valve housing to the top of the engine cylinder
Insert an airsoft 6mm ball bearing into the valve housing
Use two M3 bolts to secure the sealing cap to the valve housing
Connect some 2mm (inner diameter) pneumatic hosing from the valve to an air supply
Assemble the ‘building brick’ engine using parts to fit your needs (you can use my YouTube video as reference)
Lubricate the piston head for smooth operation

air engine

pneumatic

compressed air

Comment & Rating (55)

@spedemon101

watched most your Youtube videos, thought that this was so cool! one question though, dose the v2 use the rubber leaf valve?

The designer has replied

@user_3177399533

Heya! Thanks a lot. Yes, the V2 design uses the rubber leaf valve

@spedemon101

Replying to @user_3177399533 :

thanks for the info!

@spedemon101

Replying to @user_3177399533 :

also, if you ever need a brick saw, check out my profile. i have designed few! feel free to use them in any videos to, i would be glad to see that!

@user_3132049885

Jamie i have problems with the engine not working and everything is leaking the ball baring the roof and the piston head its just a nightmare can you please help me fix this and get it running thanks!

The designer has replied

@user_3177399533

Hey, sure. If the valve itself is leaking, it almost always because the hat needs to be sanded before the 0-ring goes onto it. I also tend to screw the screws tightly until the two lips bend and join tightly together. There should be almost no leak when they're screwed tightly together. There also shouldn't be any real leak when the valve is pressurised. If there is, I'd imagine the lower o-ring you're using may not be the correct size? A TINY amount of lube also helps the bb seat itself and create a seal. In general, there will be a slow leak though when the valve is pressurised, but I wouldn't worry about that. Finally, if the engine still isn't running, the culprit 9/10 times is the piston head seal. This needs to be a good seal, but with almost no friction when lubed. I'd highly recommend my newer double o-ring piston head, rather than the single o-ring. For my single o-ring, I'd recommend a small amount of teflon tape (just a few cm) underneath the o-ring to create a better seal.

@user_3132049885

Replying to @user_3177399533 :

I fixed everything and got the piston head to seal but it still won’t start it dose half a run and then stalls i am running it at 45psi

@user_3132049885

Replying to @user_3177399533 :

Also i love your content on YouTube it just amazing

@user_752310661

van you please make a print profile with only the piston head

@potatonibbler42

you can just deselect the parts you don’t want to print when on the “send print” screen with filament options and stuff, it’ll show number of parts and you can deselect them as needed.