3D Maker

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The issue arose when I tried printing a second Hylian Shield and found I did not have enough material left. I therefore optimized the model and print settings to reduce material consumption and shorten print time, while keeping the final quality unchanged.<ul><li>The original overall dimensions remain unchanged.</li><li>Removed connecting structures between the blue shield face and silver outer frame parts. This makes printing easier and drastically reduces support structures. The parts can be assembled with strong adhesive; tested strength is identical to the original model.</li><li>Optimized part orientation to ensure high exterior surface finish (see attached images). Supports have been minimized, and support marks/seams are hidden on the back or joint areas whenever possible.</li><li>Fixed minor mesh issues in the original model, including non-manifold geometry, holes, and hollow defects.</li><li>Handle design adapted from a model by Percula.</li><li>Most parts are individually laid out in the profile. You may combine plates as needed. Strongly recommend glue-assisted printing.</li><li>Besides super glue for assembly, silicone sealant (glass adhesive) is highly recommended. It improves structural strength and perfectly seals gaps on the back side.</li></ul>

Optimize the model, Reduce supports, Save time and material 

g3dit

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Print as is, calibrated to be less than 1 kilogram of silver and blue so that there is no need to buy multiple spools!Around 60 ours of printing.

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill, 4 plates only!

fertig

Kevin101

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I did this profil for a cosplay. This are my settings i used. Firstly i didn´t print the red bird. I used imitation suede (my recommendation). So you have to figure the red parts out by yourself, if you want to print them (the models are still in there).&nbsp;I did edit the handle and the parts of the belt. This should make the constructionparts stronger. But it does not look quiet good. I didnt have the motivation to do modeling to solve this, because it is “just” the back of the shield.&nbsp;You will have to sand the blue parts. It is difficult to print this parts perfectly, because of the warping on the not flat edge. I used: <ul><li>Bambulab Basic Blue</li><li>Bambulab Basic Silver</li><li>Bambulab Silk+ Gold (you have to change the settings for silk+ → much slower print)</li><li>red and blue imitation suede</li></ul>

Cosplay - (0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill)

sushimaster1928

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for a1 mini

percula

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All pieces in this profile are oriented and supported so they print with horizontal layer lines (except the back silver pieces, which are oriented as shown). Even the blue and red pieces are oriented this way, so if you print with glossy or silk filament it should look great, without any paint or other post processing. I also added an additional part to reinforce the strap attachment points (not in photo). These simply slide in place and should really be printed in PETG for maximum strength.

Horizontal Layer Lines

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

Zelda Hylia shield sub-assembly model, multiple colors: silver, gold, red. Special note: Silk filament is recommended. The models are printed using Creality K1, and all models are modeled by ourselves. Model display video is on Bilibili website, use this website for model file sharingVideo Link：https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1yL411q7yq/And My YouTube channel：https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6ji0mZSIzHVj5ki3ZauHyw<boostme><boosttitle>Boost Me</boosttitle></boostme>

Zelda Hylia Shield /Hylian

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